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8. Dynamo Not Cutting In Until High Speed Is Reached.
If the dynamo should not cut in until the engine is raced, and after it once cuts in it operates satisfactorily even down to low car speeds, this is an indication that the dynamo brushes are not making proper contact, or that the commutator is roughened and dirty. To remedy, proceed as under "lights flickering." 9. Adjustment of Automatic Relay.
Before proceeding with the method of adjusting and regulating the automatic relay or cutout, and the voltage regulator or controller, it should be borne in mind that these parts are correctly set and adjusted before leaving the factory, and no attempt should be made to alter same, unless you are certain that conditions can be bettered or corrected by doing so. These parts will operate over great lengths of time with absolutely no attention, and they should be touched only when you are positive that the (difficulty lies there.
This relay is for the purpose of closing the dynamo circuit on to the battery when the dynamo voltages are correct. If it is necessary to alter this cutting-in point, it is done by slackening off the hexagon-headed nut at the buttom of the left-hand relay. To cause it to cut in at a higher voltage, this nut should be tightened. To cut in at lower voltage, it should be slacked off. Do not forget to tighten up on the lock nut. In the front and toward the bottom of the relay, an opening is noticed. When this relay is closed, there should be a gap of approximately 164 of an inch between the movable member of the cutout and the stationary part. To adjust this distance, it is necessary to alter the position of the contact, carried on to the bridge, located on top of this relay. This is done by slackening off the hexagon jam nut and backing the contact screw down. 10. Adjusting Regulator.
The regulators when sent out are adjusted at a point to give the most satisfaction over the most general average operating conditions, but some individual cases may be brought to your attention which will necessitate altering the regulation. This is accomplished by means of altering the position of the conicalheaded screw at the top of the right-hand relay. This is done by means of a small socket wrench. By causing the screw to travel so that a greater pressure is exerted on the small pin underneoth the conical head, it results in a higher voltage at the dynamo terminals, and slackening off this screw decreases this pressure, and results in a lower voltage. The adjustment at all times should be so that the battery is maintained at approximately 80% charged, but at no time should the regulator be set so that the dynamo voltage just previous to the automatic relay operating is more than 1434 volts, inasmuch as this would cause a violent change in the intensity of light, when the automatic relay operated.
No mention has been made in these instructions of the righthand switch on the control box. This was purposely left out, inasmuch as the switching combination has been changed, and this switch is now inoperable. The dynamo and the battery are always in parallel with the automatic relay or cutout contacts in series. If Starter Will Not Turn Motor.
1. See that starter pedal is not sticking and goes all the way down. Disconnect storage battery under seat, if pedal sticks.
2. Note whether starter gear goes into engagement. If starter spins, “nurse” the pedal until gear engages.
3. See that main leads between battery switch and starter are firmly connected, especially at the battery.
4. Battery may be discharged. Test gravity per separate instructions.
5. Start with crank and report promptly to Bosch or Marmon representatives.
If Starter Turns Motor, But Motor Will Not Fire.
1. Do not continue to “churn” motor, but check over motor conditions. See that
Tgnition switch is in proper position.
Gasoline line cock is open. 2. With a very cold motor it may take some time to get an ignitable mixture into the cylinders, but if the air choke valve almost entirely closes the carburetor intake a strong suction will draw gasoline into cylinders as effectively as priming. In extreme cold weather a prompt start will follow wrapping a hot watersoaked cloth about intake manifold.
3. In moderate weather continued churning with the air choke closed will cause cylinders to flood. To clear motor open wide the air choke and throttle levers. If still unable to get an explosion, do not continue to apply starter, but look for the trouble.
4. See that carburetor is getting its supply of pure gasoline.
Drain vacuum feed reservoir and note carefully whether there is dirt or water present.
If so, drain carburetor and fill reservoir by revolving motor with starter with air valve closed.
Then see that you are getting good gasoline and you will get a start.
If you cannot get gasoline to flow, water may be frozen or line may be choked with sediment.
If gasoline supply seems all right, turn to ignition.
5. See whether you get a spark at spark plugs when cranking by placing a screw driver or other metal from metallic connection on top of plug to metal on motor. If not
Disconnect magneto ground switch wire. If it then fires, this
wire is grounded somewhere, causing the trouble. If not
Remove and inspect distributor.
See that breaker is working. 6. If you get a good spark, examine the spark plugs. They should have a gap of .025 inch (eight thicknesses of this paper).
See that they are free from soot.
TROUBLES IN REMY STARTING, LIGHTING AND
IGNITION SYSTEMS. The diagrams presented in preceding chapter should make clear the various connections of this electrical system and a review of the following suggestions for locating trouble, which are taken from the instructions of the Remy Company will enable the reader to remedy any defective condition that might materialize.
Grounds and Short Circuits. It is readily seen, by a glance at these diagrams, that this is what is known as a one-wire system, that is, the bodies of the machines, the engine and the frame of the car form one-half of the circuit between the battery and the motor, ignition-generator, ignition switch, and lamps. Thus it will be seen that if the insulation is worn off any one of the wires and the copper touches any of the metal parts of the car, a short circuit will result, which will either render the system inoperative by blowing out one or both of the fuses or will discharge the battery. Short circuits may result from two bare wires coming into contact, but in general where short circuits are mentioned in this book a contact of a bare wire with some of the metal parts of the car is referred to. By “open circuits” is meant broken wires, fuse burnt out, or proper connections not made to the frame. It should be borne in mind that inasmuch as the frame of the car forms one-half of the electrical circuit between the lamps, the ignition switch and the battery, the frames of the lamps and the proper terminals of the ignition switch and battery should be well grounded to the frame of the car at all times.
All Lights Go Out-Ignition Fails-Starting Motor Dead.—The cause of this is: (1) A loose connection either at battery terminals, at battery side of starting switch, or at point where battery is grounded to the frame of the car. (2) A loose connection at motor side of starting switch or at starting motor and the wire between the switches broken. (3) Loose connection at motor side of starting switch or at starting motor and the Model 79 fuse burnt out.
All Lights Go Out-Ignition Fails—Starting Motor 0. K.-A short or open circuit in the wire between the starting switch and the Model 79 fuse block or the Model 79 fuse being burnt out might be the cause of this. Look first to see if this fuse is intact. If the fuse is burnt out make a careful examination-for groundsof the wiring between the Model 148 switch, the lamps and the ignition distributor before replacing with new fuse. See that all connections on the fuse block and the back of the Model 148 switch are tight.
All Lights Go Out-Ignition and Starting Motor 0. K.-It is evident that this trouble is confined to open circuits between the lighting switch and the lamps, loose connections at lighting switch or at lamps, or burned out bulbs.
Ignition Fails—Lights and Starting Motor 0. K.—This trouble may be traced to loose connections at the ignition switch, coil or ignition distributor, poor grounding of the switch on the speedometer support screw or open circuits or short circuits between the ignition switch and distributor. See that the contact points in the breaker box are adjusted correctly and examine all high tension wires.
All Lights Go Dim.-A short circuit between the battery and starting switch or between the starting switch and ignition generator would cause this trouble. The most probable cause is a discharged battery resulting from leakage of current due to short circuits in the wiring; using bulbs of higher candle-power than those recommended; using low efficiency carbon filament bulbs, or defects in the generator which prevents it from charging properly. Make sure that the generator protective fuse on the relay regulator base is not burned out. Another possible, though hardly probable, cause is that the relay points might remain closed. This would cause the current from the battery to be dissipated in the windings of the ignition generator. If this is the case the cover may be removed and the contact broken by releasing the relay blade with the finger. If the contact points are roughened or pitted, draw a piece of very fine sandpaper lightly between them and carefully remove all dirt or dust. If the generator protective fuse is intact and the ignition generator is not charging properly, the relay-regulator cover should be removed and all contact points examined to make sure that they are not kept separated by some small particle of foreign matter that is not capable of conducting electricity. A small quantity of dirt between the points will keep the generator current from flowing to the battery, and will naturally produce a discharged battery in time.
Generator Test.-A simple test to determine if the ignitiongenerator is properly operating is first, switch all lights on with engine idle; second, start engine and run same reasonably fast.