I was particularly struck with the scenery. Passing through the small town or village of Leh-kong, I soon came to the foot of the first range of hills, and ascended the pass which led over them into the interior of the island. On the sides of the road and scattered over the hills I observed large quantities of the tallow-tree. Its seeds are carefully gathered by the natives, and are valuable for the oil and tallow which they contain. A few patches of tea were seen dotted on the lower parts of the hills. When I reached the top of the first ridge of hills, and looked down on the other side, a most charming view presented itself. A quiet and beautiful valley lay below, here and there studded with small farm-houses, and apparently bounded on all sides by hills richly clothed with shrubs and trees. It was a fine autumnal day, and many of the leaves had assumed their red and yellow tints before falling to the ground. Those of the tallow-tree and a species of maple had become of a clear blood-red colour-others were nearly white; and the contrast between these colours and the deep green foliage of the pines was most striking. Clumps of fine bamboos, and the sung-the species of palm already noticed-gave a tropical appearance to the

scenery.

The green-tea shrub is cultivated very extensively in the interior of the island; and my chief object in coming here was to procure a quantity of its seeds. For this purpose I took my two servants with me, and examined all the tea-farms on our way. Chinamen generally have a great aversion to long walks,

and my men were no exception to the rule. From the way in which they lagged behind I suspected they had some intention of turning back when I was far enough advanced to be out of sight. This they contrived to do, and when they got home reported that they had lost me amongst the hills. I felt rather annoyed, as I expected to have secured a considerable quantity of tea-seeds, but contented myself with a determination to look better after them the next day. On the following morning I procured a pony, and with my two defaulters set off for the teafarms situated in the middle of the island. Captain Priestman accompanied me; and as he had seen the conduct of my two men on the day previous, he assisted me to look after them with hearty good will. When we had crossed the first range of hills and were descending into the valley on the opposite side, the two Chinese disappeared just as they had done the day before. Riding back some distance, we found them lingering behind, and evidently intending to lose us again and return home. This time, however, it would not do; so calling them to come on, and placing them between us on the narrow road, we moved forwards. I fear, I must confess, that we did not take the nearest road to our destination, which we reached at last, having been between three and four hours on the way. We gathered a good supply of tea-seeds from various farms on the hill-sides; and when we had finished the day's operations rode quietly homewards, leaving the Chinamen to bring the collections which had been made. The same plan was

adopted daily until nearly all the farms were visited, and a large supply of tea-seeds was obtained.

Silver Island consists of a succession of hills and valleys not unlike those of Chusan, but even more rich in appearance. Passing over the first hill and descending into the valley, the traveller at first imagines that he is surrounded on every side by hills; but proceeding onwards, the road gradually winds round the base of the hills, and another valley as pretty as the last opens up to view. Thus, like a splendid panorama, picture after picture is presented to the eye, painted by the hand of nature beautiful and perfect.

There is more tea grown on Silver Island than on any of the other islands in the Chusan archipelago. The greater part of what is not consumed by the natives is sent over to Ning-po and Chapoo for home consumption or for exportation to the Straits. Although good tea, it is not prepared in a manner to suit the English or American markets. The tallowtree (Stillingia sebifera) and the "Tung-eau" (Dryandra cordata, Thunberg) both produce articles of export. The former is well known to produce the tallow and oil so much in use in China: the latter furnishes a valuable oil which is used in mixing with the celebrated varnish of the country, and hence this tree is often called the varnish-tree.

Having procured a collection of the seeds of these useful trees, as well as a large quantity of tea-seeds, I had the whole of them carefully packed, and left Silver Island for Shanghae, via Chapoo. This route,

which I opened some years ago, is now commonly used by foreigners travelling between the two northern ports, and, although not provided for in the "treaty," is not objected to by the Chinese authorities. The consuls of different nations and their families, merchants, and missionaries, all avail themselves of it; and when we consider the number of foreigners in Shanghae, an outlet such as this seems absolutely necessary. All acknowledge the powerful influence of change of air in cases of fever, and I have no doubt that the lives of some have been saved by being able to get down quickly to the islands in the Chusan archipelago. But had there been no route via Chapoo, this would oftentimes have been cult, as the only other way is by sea. mention this to show the folly of the treaty we made with the Chinese-a treaty, by-the-by, which is observed neither by the Chinese nor by ourselves—it also shows how much may be done by quietly and peaceably breaking down those barriers which have been erected by prejudice and ignorance.

very diffi

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The bay of Chapoo abounds with pirates, and unless one's boat is well armed the passage across is rather dangerous. It was here poor Mr. Lowrie, the American missionary, was murdered in 1845 or 1846. He was a man of great promise, and was much regretted. My boat was well armed, and having moreover two Lascars on board, I had little to fear. We crossed the bay in safety. I then engaged a canal boat, and jogged quietly onwards to Shanghae, which place we reached without any adventure worth recording.

It was now the middle of January, and the depth of winter in the north of China. The Chinese new year was approaching; it fell on the 24th, and all the natives were busily employed in collecting their debts and arranging their books. It is considered a great disgrace to have outstanding debts at the beginning of the year. Merchants and shopkeepers will often make considerable sacrifices in order to raise money at this season, and hence foreigners generally consider this a good time to make cheap purchases. These purchases must all be made before new year's day, as then the shops are closed, and little or no business is transacted for a week; after which trade begins again as before. At this festive season flowers are as much sought after here for the purposes of decoration as they are at home at Christmas time. On visiting some of the flower-shops in Shanghae, in the middle of January, I was surprised to find a great many flowers which had been forced into bloom and were now exposed for sale. I was not previously aware that the practice of forcing flowers was common in China. Many plants of Magnolia purpurea were in full flower; as were also many kinds of doubleblossomed peaches, the pretty little Prunus sinensis alba, and a variety of camellias. But what struck me as most remarkable was the facility with which the Moutan Pæony had been brought into full bloom. Several varieties of this plant were in full flower; and at this season of the year, when everything out of doors was cold and dreary, they had a most lively effect. Their blooms were tied up, to keep them