it simmer until quite reduced; then dish up the fish with a sauce made thus-Put into a pan some crumb of bread, with a little butter, some parsley, shallots chopped very fine, pepper, salt, two or three cloves, a little nutmeg grated, a glass of French white wine, and one of good gravy; let it boil until it becomes thick. Dish very hot. [Hashes. See Cold Meat Cookery.] Frying. as in bacon fat, omelettes, &c., (for which see Receipts). Each egg should be separately broken in a tea cup and gently poured into the pan, that the yolks may remain unbroken in the centre of the whites when the whole is set, and the lower part fried to a delicate brown, take up each separately with a slice. (See Omelettes.) Fish to be fried should be dry and well floured; or they may be rubbed with white of egg and covered with fine bread crumbs. All kinds of fish require much more fat than meats or vegetables: the fat may, however, be used for fish over and over again. Turn fish in the pan with a slice, and be careful in taking them up that they do not break. How To FRY.-Perhaps of all modes of cookery frying is the least nutritious and economical. All kinds of meats and vegetables may, however, be fried and made tasty. The frying-pan should be sufficiently large to allow the meat to lie flat at the bottom; and the fire should be brisk, clear, and free from blaze. If Sautéing is a mode of frying in a the meat to be fried is fat, the pan will deep kind of frying-pan, or shallow need only to be greased to prevent saucepan, generally lined with earthensticking; but in the case of veal ware. A moderate or small quantity cutlets, and other lean meats, butter, of fat only is required. When it boils, dripping, lard, or bacon will be neces- put in the meat, &c., and keep the sary. Salt fat, from the liquor of pan in motion till its contents are boiling meat is apt to fly and spurt, properly cooked. Chops, steaks, cutand therefore is unfit for frying; but lets, pancakes, omelettes, fritters, fat used for frying will, if strained, small game, and poultry, kidneys, serve for the same purpose again and sweetbreads, potatoes sliced or cut in again. Meat for frying should be dice, vegetables, and fish are all sautéd. slightly salted, peppered and floured, The great point is to avoid over cookand when done, laid on a hot dish and ing, especially if the sautéing be only the fat poured off for further use. If the preliminary process in the preparonions or other vegetables are to be ation of the dish. fried, place them in the pan directly after the meat is removed and fry in the fat. When they are brown, pour off the fat, as before. For gravies made in the frying pan there are many receipts. This is a good plain gravy: -A teacup or more of cold gravy, broth, or water, with a spoonful of ketchup or Worcester sauce, and a bit of butter the size of a walnut rolled in as much flour as it will carry; set on the fire and kept well shaken in the pan, till the gravy is smooth and thick. Bacon or Ham should be scalded a minute or two in water in the frying pan. When the fat begins to run and becomes transparent, pour off the liquor and brown the meat in its own fat. Liver should be fried over a slow fire, as it is apt to fly. | Fish to Fry.-Skate, Soles, Plaice, Flounders, Brill, Mackerel, and freshwater fish generally, are fried au naturel, in fat or butter, and served without sauce, which is added at table according to taste, in a dish garnished with parsley. Fresh-water fish must be laid for an hour or two in a bath of salt and water to remove the earthy flavour. Crimped Skate.-Lay slices in butter for three or four hours, with salt, pepper, cloves, a little garlic, onions, parsley, and vinegar, near enough to the fire to gently melt the butter. Then take out the slices and fry quickly in butter, and serve on a hot dish garnished with parsley. Smelts.-Wipe with a clean cloth, but do not wash; dredge with flour, Eggs are fried in a variety of forms, or brush over with yolk of beaten c and roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in boiling dripping or lard till thoroughly brown. or melt. Dredge with flour, and fry in boiling lard or oil to a good colour. Drain before the fire, and serve hot with melted butter, or parsley and butter. Some are partial to an onion sliced up and put into a sauce-boat, and boiling water poured over it, sea Soles.-Take off the brown skin and scrape the other side. Wash well and place them in a cloth to dry; then rub well over with yolk of egg well beaten, and cover with grated bread-soned with pepper and salt. crumbs; fry to a good colour in boiling lard, and when done, lay them on a sieve before the fire to dry; serve with melted butter, and shrimp sauce, garnishing the dish with crimped parsley. The sieve may be covered with blotting paper to absorb the fat. Soles à la Italienne. Clean, cut off heads and tails. Cover with chopped parsley, salt, pepper, a little powdered nutmeg. adding a good piece of butter, previously warmed. Fry over a quick fire, and turn as soon as one side is done. Serve with Italian sauce. Eels.-Cleanse; cut into pieces of about three inches, scored across in two or three places without separating them dust with flour, and fry in boiling lard to a good brown, or dip in a batter, sprinkle with finely grated bread-crumbs, fry, and serve with melted butter. Soles au Gratin.-Rub a piece of butter on a silver or plated dish; then fry for a short time some chopped fine herbs, eschalots, chopped mushrooms, and salt, and pepper; when nicely browned put them in the dish, and place your soles upon them; cover the soles with grated bread-crumbs; add a little butter, and a small quantity of white wine. Cook gently under a braising pan, or over a slow charcoal fire; but if the latter, brown with a salamander. Serve with slices of lemon, or lemon juice squeezed over just previous to sending to table. Sprats.-Frying is the best way to .cook these delicate fish. Wipe them dry, and flour well before putting them in the pan. Let them almost float in boiling fat or butter, and fry till they are well browned. Sprats are often fried in butter, when they make a nice dish. Trout.-Cleanse, dredge with flour, rub with beaten yolk of egg, cover with bread-crumbs, fry to a good colour, and serve with melted butter and lemon pickle. Small trout are dressed whole. In some parts of Scotland, trout are rubbed with oatmeal instead of flour, and some consider this improves the flavour. Herrings.-Scale, cut off the fins, gut, and wipe dry, leaving in the roo Lampreys are fried, boiled, or sautéd like eels. Gudgeons are always fried; much used in France, though somewhat insipid. Flour well, and fry in a deep pan, with plenty of fat. Whiting. After being scaled and cleansed, cut into steaks, and fry with bread-crumbs in boiling fat, till brown. Small whiting are generally served curled with their tails in their eye-sockets. If Whitebait--This delicate little fish must be eaten fresh. Drain, and smother in flour; shake off the superfluous flour, fry in a pan of boiling lard till very slightly coloured. browned they are ruined. When cooked, lay them on a sieve, covered with blotting paper to absorb the fat, before the fire. Dish very hot in a heap, with salt and pepper. Serve with halved lemons and brown bread and butter. In Devilled Whitebait are cooked in the same way, with Cayenne pepper. both cases they should be hot, crisp, and free from fat. Oysters. Boil for a minute in their own liquor and drain; fry in butter, seasoned with catsup, lemon-peel, and parsley, over a quick fire, and serve | hot with fried potatos. Broiling and Grilling. How to broil economically.-Meats, fish, small poultry, and game may be broiled as a variety in cooking. First you must have a good clean fire, without blaze; then set on your gridiron, and when the bars are hot through, wipe them thoroughly with a clean rag or paper, and rub them with a morsel of suet or dripping to prevent the meat from sticking. Meat for broiling should be from half an inch to an inch thick: if thinner, it will be dry and hard; if thicker, the outside will be brown before the middle is sufficiently done. In broiling, meat should be frequently turned, and for this purpose a small pair of tongs is necessary, as the wound Lade by a fork lets out the gravy. Rump steaks, mutton and pork chops, and several kinds of fish are best broiled. The part of the ox, called beef-skirt, should be turned only once, when half done, and then peppered and salted to taste. Never cut broiling meat to see if it is done. That can be better ascertained by the smell, and by the little jets of steam from the meat. This also applies to all roast. Hot plates or dishes should be ready to receive the broil immediately it is fit to come from the fire. A bit of butter rubbed on a bro ed steak in the dish will draw out the gravy and add to its appearance. Catsup and other sauces should be added hot in the dish. Though not the most economical mode of cooking, broiling is a decidedly toothsome, wholesome, and pleasant one, especially agreeable to invalids and children. Broiled Fowl.-Truss as for boiling, cut out the back-bone and press quite flat, season well with pepper, salt, and chopped shallots or small onions; fry upon both sides, take out, egg over with a paste-brush, dip into breadcrumbs, place upon a gridiron, over a moderate fire, and broil a very light brown colour, and serve with a little plain gravy, or mushroom sauce-of button mushrooms, simmered for ten minutes, with two tablespoonfuls of entsup and two of Harvey sauce, and a pat of butter. Pour the sauce in the dish over the fowl, and serve. Spitchcocked Eels.-Cut large eels into pieces three or four inches long; sprinkle with pepper and salt, beat up an egg, dip them into it, and cover them afterwards with a mixture of bread crumbs, chopped parsley, and pepper and salt; broil and serve with melted butter, parsley and butter, or with mustard sauce. Whiting.-Prepare as for frying, and cook on a gridiron, rubbing them over before serving with a little cold butter. Sturgeon and Turbot Steaks.—Cut into steaks, season with pepper and salt in melted butter, and cover with bread crumbs, after having rubbed them over with yolks of egg well beaten ; broil to a good colour, and serve with rich sauce, or melted butter. To make them look best at table, they should be broiled in buttered paper. Kippered or Dried Salmon.-Cut up the back and take out the bone; wipe clean, score the fish, pepper and broil. Salmon Steaks are broiled in buttered paper or between slices of bread, over a slow fire. Serve with melted butter and savoury sauce. Mackerel.-Clean, split, wipe dry, pepper and salt and broil thoroughly. The French broil mackerel in buttered paper, and serve with chopped herbs and melted butter. A small mackerel will take about ten minutes to broil. Game is broiled and served in various ways, for which see receipts. Braising. cooked. ing in France. Braising is a favourite mode of cookboth above and below the article to be It requires the fire air tight, the top filled with live coal The braising-pan is nearly or charcoal the word braise meaning the wood left partially burnt in the oven. The process should be conshould be thoroughly done. Braised ducted slowly. Everything braised larly grateful to invalids and epicures. mutton, beef, game, &c. is particu solve the cheese. Serve very hot. Welsh Rarebits are served on toast. a little mustard on them, and then | Dutch oven for four minutes to discover them with a deep layer of grated cheese and ham, seasoned with cayenne; fry in butter, but do not turn them in the pan; place in a Toasted cheese is prepared in a pattypan and toasted before a clear fire. Carving. How to Carve.-It is important that everyone, especially the head of every family, should know how to carve a joint of meat, a head of game, a fowl, or other kind of poultry; for what can be more awkward than to be placed before a dish without being able to help it properly? Good carving is also economical; for a joint well carved may be thoroughly served without an ounce being wasted, while everyone at table gets a due proportion of welldone and under-done, fat and lean, tit-bit and gravy. Carving requires some knowledge of the nature of the joint or the anatomy of the birds, fish, hare, &c., usually eaten as food. It also requires nerve, steadiness, and practice. Never stand up to carve ; nothing is more vulgar. Let your knife be sharp, but not your temper; and whenever you have to carve for a large party remember that expedition is a sort of grace of itself. Sirloin of Beef-The ordinary way to carve this famous joint is to cut from the chine-bone to the flap, directly in the centre, help- 6 SIRLOIN OF BEEF. the direction of the line lengthwise (1-2), or downwards 3-4; when, if the party be large, slices from the under-cut (6--6) may be helped. Ribs of Beef.-Cut same as sirloin; but as it has no under-cut, it may be cut in thin slices from the thick end to the flap, with slices of the latter. Round of Beef.-After removing a slice all round, cut thin slices evenly so as not to disfigure the joint; helping fat with each plate. Aitchbone of Beef. This joint is sometimes roasted; but whether roasted or boiled, it is carved in a very simple manner, by slices from 1 to 2; with a portion of the fat from the under side. Brisket of Beef.- Cut lengthwise down to the bone, after removing the outside slice; the soft fat lies beneath. Avoid all ragged or jagged cuts, which spoil the look of the joint when cold. AITCHBONE OF BEEF. 2 T'ongue.-Begin three inches from the tip, serve thin slanting slices, with portion of the fat at the root with every plate. BOAST LEG OF MUTTON. 3 Roast Leg of Mutton.This favourite joint is always placed on the table as in the engraving. Cut slices in the line 1, 2, with small pieces of fat at 3. Some persons carve a leg of mutton like a ham, in slices towards the middle, which is an economical plan, and leaves the cold joint of a good shape. Boiled Leg of Mutton.-This is sent to table with fat side uppermost. BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. The wether leg has a round lump of fat at the edge of the broadest part, a. The best part of the joint is in the midale, between the knuckle and further end, b. Begin by cutting thin deep slices as far as c. Take slices of fat from the end. Many prefer the knuckle part, which is in general tender. Good slices may be cut on the back of the leg; turn it up, and cut at the broad end, longways, different from the direction taken on the opposite side. For the cramp-bone, cut down to the thigh-bone, at d; then pass the knife under the cramp-bone. Haunch of Mutton.-Make a deep cut down to the bone near the knuckle, which will let the gravy escape. Then cut slices lengthwise from the crosscut to the end. Saddle of Mutton.-This, the best joint of the sheep, consists of the two loins. It is to be carved by making a deep cut from end to end, right through the middle, and serving slices on either side, with a portion of fat to each. Some carvers take slices from the thick part obliquely. Loin of Mutton.-Carve in chops, which should be easily removed if the butcher has properly chopped the bones. Is Shoulder of Mutton usually served with the back part uppermost. Cut in the hollow part from a to b, and the knife should pass down to the bone. The best fat is on the outside edge, and should be cut in the direction e, in thin slices. When many persons are at table, and the hollow part a, b, is cut out, some nice slices may be obtained on each side of the blade-bone from c to d. The space between the two dotted |