Point de Reprise. Wheel. the loops already worked, which secures them in their places. It is this interlacing which gives the effect to the work. Point de Reprise.-This stitch is useful for forming stars, flowers, &c., and is darned over and under the netting to form the flower desired; but this illustration is adapted to a fan-like pattern. A twisted thread is taken across two squares and darned over and under. Wheel. This is used to fill up one or four holes of the netting. It has picots attached, and an examination of the previous diagrams will indicate the mode of working. Tatting, or Frivolite. - In this fashionable and easy work there are only two stitches, the English and the French stitch; and these are generally used alternately. Position of the Hands.-The shuttle being filled with cotton, leave about half a yard at the end. Hold the shuttle between the thumb and the first and second fingers of the right hand, and the thread, an inch or two from the end, between the thumb and first finger of the left. Pass the thread round the fingers of the left hand (holding them rather apart), and bring it up again between the thumb and fore-finger, thus making a circle. English Stitch. Let the thread between the left hand and the shuttle fall towards you. Slip the shuttle downwards under the loop, between the first and second fingers, and draw it out with a slight jerk towards the right, in a horizontal position, when a loop will be formed on it with the thread which was passed round the fingers of the left hand. Hold the shuttle steadily, with the thread stretched out tightly, for, if you slacken it, the loop instantly transfers itself to this thread, and becomes a tight instead of a slip-knot. While holding it thus stretched out, work up the knot with the second finger, till it comes close up to the thumb. French Stitch.-Instead of letting the thread fall forward, throw it back in a loop over the finger of the left hand, and pass the shuttle up between the thread round the fingers and this loop. Draw it up, and complete it as the other. Double Stitch.--These two stitches, worked alternately. Picot. This is the little loop, or purling, ornamenting the edge. It is made with a gilt purling-pin. Lay the point of the pin parallel with and close to the edge of the stitches. Pass the thread which goes round the fingers over the pin before making the next stitches. All the picots on one loop of tatting ought to be made without withdrawing the pin. To Join Loops.-They are always united by the picots, which should be on the first of any two to be joined. In it draw the cotton which goes round the fingers of the left hand, and slip the shuttle through this loop; tighten the cotton again over the fingers, and continue. Sometimes a needle and thread are used in joining patterns. In this case, leave a longer thread to begin with, and then thread the needle on it. To Wish Tatting.-Cover a bottle with flannel, on which tack the tatting; rub it with a lather of white soap, and boil it; rinse it out, and pull it very carefully out before ironing. A piece of clean linen should be laid over it, between it and the iron. Another way.-Put the lace in cold water and soap in an enamelled saucepan, and place it on the fire until it boils, rinse in lukewarm blue water, roll in clean cloth, and, when nearly dry, carefully stretch it out and straighten all loops with a fine pin. PATTERNS IN TATTING. Edging.-Materials: Boar's head cotton No. 14, a small shuttle, steel crochet needle. Berlin Wool-work.-The following are the stitches most commonly used in wool-work on canvas : Tent Stitch.-Bring the needle from the back, and put it through the hole to the right above it. This stitch is used in putting beads on to wool-work, as in slippers, &c. Cross Stitch.-A stitch crossing two threads, both in height and width. When a line of it has to be done, all the half stitches should be done, and then all crossed. Tapestry Stitch.-A single stitch over one thread in width, and two in height. Raised Berlin Work.-Done over meshes made for the purpose, sharp on one edge, so as to cut the wool when drawn out. Thread the needles with as many colours as you have shades; and do each line in the flower or other desigu as you go on, beginning at the bottom. Every stitch in this is across one thread in length and two in width. Make a knot at the end of your needleful, and bring the needle up in front of the mesh. Take a tent-stitch to the left. Put the wool round the mesh, and take another tent-stitch to the right. Put the wool round the mesh, and proceed with the next stitch, taken to the left. Sew a thread of canvas between every two rows. Do not withdraw one mesh until the 1 ext row is worked. Raised work requires to be cut by such experienced hands that it is always best to send it to a warehouse to be done; and the Berlin pattern from which it was worked must accompany it, as a guide to the cutter. Working on canvas with a cloth ground requires them both to be put in a frame, allowing for the cloth stretching considerably more than the canvas. The usual way, when the design is worked, is to draw out the threads, but it is better to cut them off as closely as possible. Any parts in the interior of a group in which the ground is seen should be worked in Berlin wool exactly to match the cloth. The work has thus a raised appearance; if the threads are drawn out, on the contrary, the stitches appear loose. To Stretch and Prepare Needlework, previous to being mounted. -Nail the piece of work on a board, or stretch it in a needlework-frame; then put paste on the back, and dry either before the fire, or with a very hot iron. When there are beads in the work, care should be taken to prevent them coming in contact with the paste. WOOL-WORK FLOWERS Are suitable for ornamenting foot-stools, cushions, antimacassars, workbaskets, mats, tea-coseys, &c. Primrose.-Materials: Two shades of yellow, and two of green single Berlin wool; some fine wire, and a wool needle. The Pistil.-Take a small piece of wire and form a loop on one end, as shown in Fig. 1. Cover the wire with dark yellow wool. The Petals. Bend a piece of wire to the shape and size of Fig. 2. Take a piece of light yellow wool, twelve inches in length, join it to the top of this frame, taking it down the centre and up again; pass it three or four times round the top of the wire, and commence darning alternately over and under the wire and the wool that passes down Fig. 1. the centre (as shown in Fig. 4), till the space is entirely filled (see Fig. 6.) The petals of which five are required for each blossom, must be arranged round the pistil, and fastened with green wool. The Bud is made in the same way as the pistil, but somewhat larger, and the lightest shade of maize wool must be used instead of the dark. The Clusters are formed of five blossoms, one bud, and two leaves. The stem of each should be covered with green wool, using the darker shade to join them together. The Leaf. Bend a piece of wire the size and shape of engraving (Fig. 3.), and darn in same manner as the petal. Fig. 5 shows the upper and Fig. 7 the under part of the primrose complete. Geranium. Materials: The geranium is made in the same way as the primrose, except that the petals are not indented at the top. Lily of the Valley. Materials: White single Berlin wool for the petals, a deep yellow for the pistils, a deep gas-green for the leaves; some fine and medium size wire, and a wool needle. The Petals are four in number; the wire must be very fine, and bent to the exact shape of Fig. 9, care being taken to have it nicely pointed. The mode of working is the same as in the primrose, white wool being used. When the petals are worked, the tops should be indented, and bent slightly backwards, to give them the natural form. The Pistil is simply a loop of yellow, round which the four petals must be placed, and fastened to the stems. The Stem is of wire, covered with green wool, which is done in fastening on the flowers. The Leaf is worked in the same way as that of the primrose, the wire being bent the size and shape of engraving (Fig. 10). The Clusters. Mount eight flowers, three buds, and two leaves in the manner shown in Fig. 8. Mat with above Flowers. Materials: Two circular pieces of cardboard ten inches across; three-eighths black alpaca; three-eighths black velvet; three dozen skeins of gas-green single Berlin wool, in shades, for the moss; for the flowers, four skeins; five of primrose, two of gas-green, seven of white, four of scarlet. The flowers consist of two sprays of geraniums, two sprays of primroses, and two sprays of lilies-of-the-valley. The velvet must be stretched over one piece of cardboard, then tack the flowers and moss round the edge, cover the second round of cardboard with alpaca, and sew the two together. Complete instructions will be found in The Practical Point-Lace Book" and "The Royal Wool-Flower Book," published by J. Beitford and Co., 186, Regent Street, and 45, Goodge Street, W., of whom patterns and matorials may also be had. For Lace-Paper Cuttings. Fire-paper and Stove Ornaments, lace paper cuttings serve much better thar. the ordinary paper or willow shavings. The tissue-paper should be in folds three or four inches wide. Mark the outside of the fold over in little diamonds with pencil and ruler; then sketch with a pencil any pattern you fancy; perhaps a bunch of grapes at the bottom, and a wreath of roses and leaves running up through the centre. Between the figures cut out all the diamonds, but be careful not to cut them in the figures. Three or four leaves, arranged in a circle, and cut in some pretty pattern, form tasteful ornaments for candlesticks. The beauty of cut-paper flowers and lace-paper cuttings depends very much upon the taste and ingenuity of the designer. Paper Flowers may be easily made. They serve admirably to ornament a ball-room, to add to evergreens for Christmas decorations, &c. Roses are simple in construction; a few sheets of pink, yellow, and crimson paper, a little green moss, iron wire, and green cotton being all the materials necessary. Fold the paper into strips of an inch and a half to two inches wide. Then fold back each strip, and slightly scollop one edge; then with your scissors, which should have round ends, press out the edge so as to round and slightly crimp it. Cut a piece of wire, and begin to wind the paper round the end. Wind strip after strip loosely, so as gradually to form a flower; then tie it round the stem. White roses, pink, and crimson, with blush roses, having a little pale pink in the centre, may be made so; a calyx of moss should be added to some. Make buds half-blown, and full-blown flowers. Hyacinths are also pretty and easily made. Cut the paper in inch-wide strips, and notch the edges. Curl the strips with the blunt edge of a knife or scissors, and roll round each strip, with the curled edge outward. Roll each piece up to form flower, and then secure the whole on a wire, placing them gradually down it, and winding a little green wool round the stem. Add long |