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a little with flour. Red currant jelly, crumbs, a little butter, the yolks of is usually eaten.

Loin of Mutton.-Remove a good deal of the fat, and cook same as leg. Fillet of Mutton.-Cut a large leg of mutton like fillet of veal. Remove the bone, and fill the cavity with forcemeat. Flour well, bake in a sharp oven, basting frequently, and serve with brown gravy and red-currant jelly.

Goose, Rabbit, and Hare are all very good baked, and the same directions apply as for roasting, which see.

Hearts of all kinds are better baked than roasted.

Bullock's Heart must be soaked in warm water for two or three hours, and then dried, and the lobes cut off. Stuff the inside with veal stuffing, or some highly seasoned forcemeat. Sew it up, envelope it in white paper, and bake in a brisk oven from one and a half to two hours, keeping it well basted. Just before ready, take off the paper; serve very hot, with rich brown gravy and red currant jelly.

Calf's Heart and Sheep's Heart are dressed in the same manner, but do not take quite so long cooking.

Baking Fish.

Haddocks are baked thus:- Cut off the heads and fins of two or three and put into a stewpan, with an onion, some parsley, salt, pepper, and two anchovies, cut up fine, a little flour, two tablespoonfuls of French white wine, and a little catsup. Boil well up together, and when the fish has been skinned and cut into pieces, lay them in a deep pie-dish; pour the sauce over them, and bake. Strew the bottom of the dish with breadcrumbs, and put some more over them; season well with pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg.

Plaice and Herrings are baked in a dish, with water, or milk and water. Flour well, and bake to a good brown. Serve with parsley and cut lemons.

Eels, Bream, Carp, Tench, and Perch may all be baked in the same

manner.

three hard boiled eggs, pepper, salt, grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, and anchovy finely shreded, binding the whole with white of egg beaten up; put on a dish with bits of butter over the top, and bake for an hour. A Dutch oven is also suited for this dish. It requires to be frequently basted and turned; plain melted butter or oyster sauce should be served with it.

Cod's Head and Shoulders may be dressed thus :-Wash well, cut off the fins, lay on a dish, pour boiling water over part, and scrape off all the black scales, taking care not to break the skin, till every part of the fish looks white, then wash in cold water; put on in boiling salt and water, and boil for a quarter of an hour; then lay on a dish and rub with the beaten yolks of two or three eggs, and strew with bread-crumbs, pepper and minced parsley; stick it all over with little bits of butter, and put it in an oven to brown; then mix a large tablespoonful of flour with a quarter of a pound of butter, a quart of gravy, a tea-cupful of white wine, some pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg; mince the white meat of a lobster, slightly brown three dozen of oysters in a frying-pan, and put them with half their liquor and the lobster to the gravy and other things; beat it up and pour round the dish; garnish with cut lemon. It is not necessary to have lobster and oysters.

Gurn.-Fill the inside with veal stuffing, cover with butter, and bake to a good brown.

Mackere-Cut off the heads and tails, and clean the fish; then season with pepper and salt; lay in a dish with a little butter, and bake in a slow oven. They may be eaten hot or cold; if hot, with any of the usual fish sauces; and if cold, with vinegar. A little vinegar and port wine may be added to them.

Oysters.-Chop fine, and pound in a mortar with crumb of bread dipped in cream; a little parsley and chives, Fill or a very small onion, a shred of anchovy, butter, salt, and pepper.

Cod. The thickest part of the cod should be chosen for baking. with a stuffing made of grated bread

When well pounded, add white of egg beaten up, in the proportion of one egg to two dozen oysters; mix all well together, put into scollop shells, and bake brown.

Pike.-Clean and scale the fish, take out the inside, and fill with a stuffing of bread crumbs, a little fresh butter, grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, pepper and salt to taste-the whole bound with an egg. Bake in a tin dish, and baste continually with fresh butter. Serve with lobster sauce, or plain melted butter.

Salmon.-Clean, cut the fish into slices about an inch to an inch and a half thick, put it in a dish, with the following sauce :-Melt an ounce of butter, kneaded in flour, in a pint and a half of brown gravy, with two glasses of port wine, two table-spoonfuls of catsup, two shredded anchovies, and a little Cayenne. When the anchovies are dissolved, strain and pour the sauce over the fish, tie a sheet of buttered paper over the dish, and bake till nicely brown.

Shad, when good-which is in spring and early summer-may be baked in the same way as salmon.

Sturgeon.-Lard with fat bacon, and bake in a slow oven. Serve with mushroom sauce, or stewed truffles.

Red Mullet. -Fold them in buttered paper, lay in a dish, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven; throw off the liquor into a saucepan, and boil up with a slice of butter rolled in flour, a little essence of anchovy, and a glass of white wine. Serve the sauce in a boat, and the fish on a dish in the paper in which they have been cooked.

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for an hour, covering the dish with buttered paper.

Baking Pastry.

The heat of the oven should be regulated according to the article to be baked. Those things should be first made which will suit the heat of the oven. Light paste requires a moderately quick oven; for if the oven is too hot, the paste will be coloured before it is properly baked; and if it is then taken out of the oven it will fall, and become flat. A cool oven will not cause pastry to rise sufficiently; and puff-paste baked in an oven with anything that causes much steam, will not be so light as otherwise. Iced tarts or puffs should be baked in a cooler oven than those that are not iced; or if the oven is too hot, the door should be left open, or the iceing will become brown. Small articles of pastry require to be baked in a hotter oven than large ones. All pastry should be baked in clean tins or patty pans, without being bured. When baked sufficiently, pastry may be easily slid about on the tin, or pan, while hot; and puffs, patties, or small pies, may be lifted from the tin, without breaking, by putting your fingers round the edges and carefully lifting them, which cannot be done unless they are sufficiently baked to be taken from the oven.

Boiling.

How To BOIL.-The meat should be put into boiling water, and kept gently simmering until done. This is an invariable rule, for otherwise the water gets into the meat and soddens it. Liebig says that "if the flesh be introduced into the boiler when the water is in a state of brisk ebullition, and if the boiling be kept up for a few minutes, and the pot then put in a warm place, so that the temperature of the water is kept at 153 to 165 degrees, we have the united conditions for giving to the flesh the qualities which best fit it for being eaten."

By this means the natural juices are kept in the meas. The slower

meat boils, or rather simmers, the fand skewered up round. Put it in better it will eat; but the water must never be allowed to get cool. Twenty minutes to the pound may be considered about the average time for meats.

The saucepan or kettle should be of suflicient size to allow the water to flow all round the meat.

Large joints should be raised from the bottom of the saucepan by means of a trivet or fish drainer, to prevent the under side burning.

Meat should not be boiled in a cloth. Keep only a moderate fire for boiling.

Meat that has been fresh killed will take a little longer than hung meat.

If meat is too salt, change the liquor when a quarter done.

The scum must be taken off as fast as it rises.

Never boil meat without there being a little salt in the water.

Salted and dried meats will want soaking for some considerable time before boiling, but never soak fresh meats.

If the water be hard, boil it for a couple of hours before using.

Round of Beef should be in salt for about eight or nine days. When your water is boiling, wash off the salt and skewer up the joint. Put it in, and let it just boil up. Directly it does so, remove it to a corner of the fire, and let it simmer gently till done. A piece of round, weighing from twelve to sixteen pounds, will take three to four hours, at least. The greatest care is necessary to remove all scum as it Serve with a little of the liquor, carrots, and suet dumplings. Turnips, parsnips, and peas-pudding are also appropriate accompaniments.

rises.

Aitchbone, Brisket, and Rump of Beef may be boiled in the same manner. If very salt, two or three hours soaking in cold water-which may with advantage be changed once or twice-will improve the flavour. A joint of twelve pounds will take about three hours after it boils up.

Ribs of Beef, in small joints, may be cooked like Round. A piece of six to eight pounds should be boned, salted

strong brine for four days, turning the meat twice a day. Then boil as for round, letting it simmer for two to two and a quarter hours.

Leg of Mutton.-Put into boiling water, and skim carefully, and then let it only simmer. This joint should not be overdone; the red gravy should follow the knife when cut. Capers, chopped fine and put into melted but ter, may be thrown over the joint, and some more of the same sauce should be served in a sauce tureen. Mashed turnips are usually served with boiled mutton.

Neck of Mutton may be boiled and served same as leg.

Collared Mutton.-The best joint is the breast, but the shoulder will do. Take out all the bones, make a forcemeat with bread crumbs, parsley, lemon-thyme, and an anchovy minced; season with salt and pepper; rub the meat over with an egg, cover it with the forcemeat, roll firmly, and tie; put it on in boiling water, and skim well; make a good gravy, seasoned with sweet herbs and mushroom catsup.

Leg of Lamb is very good boiled and served same as leg of mutton, (which see). Spinach should be eaten with boiled lamb.

Collared Breast of Veal. Bone, and lay some good forcemeat over the veal. Roll it up, and tie round with tape; envelope in a cloth, and simmer gently for three hours. Fry some forcemeat balls, and serve with brown sauce.

Knuckle of Veal must be boiled rather longer than most meats, until it feels very soft under a fork. It must not boil too fast, and be well skimmed. If cooked in milk and water, it increases its whiteness. Pickled pork or ham should be boiled and served with it. Parsley and butter or white onion sauce are appropriate.

Another method is to procure two knuckles and saw them into three pieces each, put into a stew-pan with two pounds of streaked bacon, a carrot, four onions, two turnips, and half-a-dozen peppercorns: place over

Boiling Poultry &c

the fire, and add a little salt when boiling; skim well, and allow to Turkeys, Fowls, &c., are trussed for simmer for a couple of hours, then boiling as follows:-After the bird is take up, and dress with the veget-drawn and plucked, singe it with white ables and bacon, in the same dish as the veal; serve with parsley and butter.

Calf's Head.-The head must be split, and the brains and tongue removed. Wash well, and soak for two hours in cold water; boil it with the tongue and brains gently in plenty of water, until quite tender; pour over the head parsley and butter made very thick; rub the brains through a sieve, add some chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a bit of butter; mix, and put it round the tongue.

Sheep's Head may also be treated in the above manner.

paper, and wipe dry. If a turkey, break the leg bones close to the feet, fasten the feet together, and attach them to a hook; then take the body of the bird in your hands, and pull it firmly towards you, until the sinews are drawn out of the thigh. Then cut off the neck close to the back, leaving the crop skin long enough to cover the opening. Insert your finger, and detach the liver and gut; cut off the vent and remove the gut. Then insert a hook, and carefully pull out the gizzard and liver, taking great care not to break the gall bladder. Cut off the legs at the first joint; cut Leg of Pok.-About eight days the breast bone through at each side will be found sufficient for salting; close to the back; then draw the then soak in cold water for an hour, legs up to the crop, and beat the and dry with a cloth. Put it into breast bone flat with a rolling pin. cold water, and let it gradually come Skewer the legs and wings firmlyto a boil, after which it must very one skewer fastening the two legs by gently simmer, till well done, which the middle joint, and another the will be, for a leg of nine or ten pounds, three to three and a half hours after the water boils. Carrots, parsnips, or turnips should be served with this dish, and may be boiled with the meat. Peas-pudding (see receipt) must always accompany it.

Ham.-Soak it as for baking, and put it into cold water, with a bunch of savoury herbs; when the water begins to simmer, let it cook gently, until it is done, skimming constantly: allow about twenty minutes to each pound; when cooked, take off the skin, and cover with raspings. Serve on a dish garnished with parsley.

Bacon.-Soak in cold water for a couple of hours; pare off the rusty edges, and scrape the rind. Then put in cold water and boil gently, allowing three quarters of an hour to every pound of bacon. When done take off the rind, scrape the under side, and grate bread crumbs over it. in a hot oven for five minutes, and serve with broad beans or peas.

Put

Pickled Pork.-Boil gently, till very tender, and serve with peaspudding and plenty of vegetables.

wings. Fowls are trussed in a similar manner, except that the nails only, and not the feet, are cut off, and that the skewers are put in the first joint of each pinion, and the middle of the leg-brought close to it--and into the body. This is done at each side. string round the legs keeps them firmer. Pheasants, partridges, and all kinds of moor game are trussed for boiling same as fowls.

A

Put

Turkey.Stuff the crop with breadcrumbs, a few pounded sweet herbs, a shredded anchovy, butter or suet, lemon-peel, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, bound with an egg. into boiling water, simmer gently for an hour and a half to two hours, according to size. Skim carefully, and serve with parsley and butter, or mushroom, or oyster sauce. Pickled pork, ham, tongue, or bacon, must accompany this dish.

Chicken and Foul.-Boil as turkey. A chicken will take about half an hour after the water boils, and a good sized fowl nearly an hour. Serve with parsley and butter, or with the fol lowing sauce :-Melt in a teacupful of

milk a large table-spoonful of butter kneaded in flour, beat up the yolk of an egg with a little cream, stir it into the butter, and heat over the fire, stirring continually. Ham, tongue or pickled pork must be served with boiled fowl. If boiled in a cloth a few slices of lemon should be placed on the breast, and the bird covered with buttered writing paper.

Another way of boiling a Fowl is to soak it in milk one hour, tie it up in a cloth and put cold water in a saucepan, place your fowl in, and put on a slow fire; when boiling, remove it, and let simmer for about twenty minites; then remove it altogether, and let it remain in the water ten minutes more. Serve with parsley chopped fine into some melted butter, a little salt, pepper, and some juice of lemon poured over; with the usual adjuncts. Boiled Fowl and Rice.-Have some good clear mutton broth boiling in your saucepan; put in the fowl so that it is entirely covered; add one large onion, a little mace, bruised, pepper and salt. Let the whole simmer gently for about half an hour, when add one-third of a pound of well washed and soaked rice. When the rice is soft and tender, take it out, strain it, and put it in the oven for a few minutes to dry. Your fowl being done, serve very hot with the rice in the dish, and parsley and butter separate.

Another method is to stuff the fowl with two dozen bearded oysters, and put in a jar. The jar should then be placed in a saucepan of boiling water, and boiled for nearly two hours. Take another dozen of oysters, scald them in their own liquor, add a gill of cream and the yolks of three eggs beaten. Mix with the gravy from the fowl, and serve very hot.

Rabbit.-Soak for a quarter of an hour in warm water. Either boil plain and serve with pickled pork or boiled ham, or prepare thus :-thicken the water in which it is to boil with a bit of butter covered with flour, and just as it boils, add a pint of milk, with salt and whole pepper; then put ገ the rabbit, with a quantity of

onions cut into quarters, and stew gently until the rabbit is tender, from half to one hour according to size; when ready, take out the onions, put into a separate saucepan with a little milk, butter, flour, and salt; when the sauce is well mixed, dish the rabbit, and pour the sauce over it. Mushrooms may be substituted for onions.

Goose laid in a dish for a couple of hours, with a pint of boiling milk poured over it, and then boiled, is very delicate, thus: Put it into boiling water, and let it simmer until very tender. Then serve, smothered with onions and cream.

Duck can also be cooked in this

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Boiling Fish.

Put fish into cold water to boil, unless the fish are small, when warm water is best. Do not put into boiling water, unless specially directed.

A little salt and vinegar should be added to the water just before the fish is ready to put in.

Fresh-water fish must always be soaked in strong salt and water before cooking

Fish should always simmer gently, or the outside will break before the inside is done.

A fish plate or strainer should be put in the kettle for the fish to lie

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