advantage has been taken of these ancient observatories to establish a line of telegraphic communication across the peninsula. Though the obscurity which invests their origin may never be fully dissipated, they will always excite interest and produce impression, as monuments of the life of long bygone ages, in many instances occupying sites which are now tenantless for leagues around them, and only visited occasionally by droves of cattle, their peasant watchmen, and the passing traveller.

Voyagers have frequently described the oppressive monotony of life at sea,-only the sky above -water beneath and around. But "breeze, or gale, or storm," introduces variety to the surface of the ocean; and the tenants of the deep often appear to divert the passenger. There is far more of dull uniformity in the features of the steppes. Even in spring, when alone for a brief interval they have any beauty, derived from the fresh grasses and the flowering plants, the sameness of the landscape soon becomes wearisome. At first, indeed, the apparent boundlessness of the plains is very impressive to the stranger; but, having once become familiar with this idea, the charm is over. Impatience is the next feeling; for, however Jehu may urge on his horses with vigorous halloo and whip, the traveller seems

for days together to have made no progress. There is the same huge disc of flatness around him, of which he appears to be the motionless centre. If summer is advanced, the aspect of the country, literally baked with heat, is one of melancholy desolation. The grasses and flowers are then dust and ashes; the surface is a perfect desert; and can only support a few herbs and scrubby bushes, neither of which have any tinge of green, but are of a pale sickly yellow colour, or ashy grey. Dreary in the extreme is the appearance of everything in winter, when the snow is lord-paramount of the soil, and every trace of a road or trackway is obliterated. But, except during an actual snow-storm, the Tatars are never in danger of losing their way, being acquainted with the bearing and direction of every tumulus; while minute objects, which others would pass by unnoticed, serve as guide-posts to them. The direction of the principal roads is now indicated by pyramids of stone, twelve feet high, built at certain intervals from each other, the work of Prince Woronzow. Hence, unless the view is closely bounded by showers of sleet or snow, the route cannot be mistaken.

Optical illusions are common summer phenomena, precisely analogous to those observed in the hot

oriental deserts. They tend to relieve the general tedium of nature, and beguile the weary way of the traveller. A tumulus, a horse, or the figure of a man on the distant horizon, magnified to a gigantic size, often appears detached from the surface of the ground, as if moving on stilts or hovering in the air. Occasionally the unequal refraction of the atmosphere gives rise to complex and picturesque combinations, and the forms of towers, spires, bridges, and trees are projected on the edge of the steppe, as though a city existed at the spot; the whole becoming confused as the spectator advances to the indicated site, till the enchantment vanishes entirely, and nothing is met with but the parched grass waving in the wind. The exhibition of vast deceptive lakes in the hazy distance is more frequent. They acquire a striking air of reality from the bodies of the cattle on the pasture-grounds only being seen, as if the legs of the animals were actually immersed in water. However natural the apparition, the herds are never misled, as they can always distinguish real water by the smell. Variety is also introduced to the landscape by the whirling breeze. Heat and drought combine to pulverise the vegetation, and accumulate a prodigious quantity of fine dust upon the plains. Rotating currents of air, which are of very common

occurrence, carry up immense quantities to a great height in their vortex, and originate the appearance of tall dusky columns marching in silent stateliness over the surface. Several of these moving pillars may frequently be seen at once, forming a kind of procession, as if on some mysterious errand; or so grouped, and changing their relative position, as to suggest the idea of huge genii at their gambols.

A disagreeable diversity is at times offered by gentlemen of the road; though travelling is in general tolerably secure. They are not footpads, but mounted brigands. Not long ago a Tatar robber, named Alime, infested the country between Simferopol and Perekop, and for years eluded the efforts of the government to capture him. He belonged to the class of Robin Hood rather than to that of Rob Roy, conducting his business with some discrimination. He was not known to take the life of any one, or inflict bodily injury. Neither did he remorselessly strip his victims of their all; but after levying a contribution for himself, he would make over a portion of spoil to the poorer members of a plundered party. Upon health failing, his occupation was gone; and being an outcast, he had to depend for subsistence upon the charity of some herdsmen and shepherds, who secretly afforded him a refuge. One

of these at last betrayed him to the authorities, tempted by the reward offered for his apprehension ; and after undergoing the knout, Alime was sent to end his days in Siberia.

The steppes are geologically composed of limestone belonging to the newest tertiary period, elevated from 120 to 200 feet above the level of the Black Sea, and terminating at its shore in an abrupt terrace. On this plateau lies a stratum of arable earth, of varying thickness and composition, but generally argillaceous and slightly saline. A seam of true sea-sand sometimes intervenes between the two, and comes to the surface at various spots. This is also the case with the limestone, the upper soil having been washed off by the rains. The rock being very friable, is readily disintegrated by atmospheric influences, wherever it is exposed; and an almost impalpable dust is formed, which the slightest breeze raises in clouds. Though usually of an ashy grey colour, it is sometimes dazzlingly white; and in these districts the eyes are painfully affected by the glare. Even the inhabitants, who are accustomed to the aspect of the surface, are seasonally visited with ophthalmia. The limestone is largely used as a building material. In the villages of the steppes, the houses of the better class are entirely composed of it,