double chance of success; but the sowing in pots should in no case be omitted, in case the heat of the bed should prove too violent; and if that should happen, the pots are easily drawn up farther from the dung, or if necessary, quite out of the earth.

When the forcing of cucumbers has commenced, there will be no necessity for preparing a hotbed for raising the melon plants, as the same mean temperature is suitable to both; and the seed may be sown either in the earth of the cucumber bed, or in pots plunged therein at the back part of the frame. In either case, when the plants have come up three or four days, and while in the lobes or seed leaf, transplant (or what is more generally termed prick) them into small pots, two plants in each, and then plunge the pots in the earth of the hotbed; or some may be pricked into the earth of the bed, but they are much better in pots, as they are ready for turning out with the whole ball into the frames, where they are intended for fruiting. But while in the seedbed be careful to cover the glasses with mats every night, admitting air

every day more or less as the weather will permit, by raising the glasses behind, from a mere crack to a quarter of an inch, an inch or more, in proportion to the heat of the bed and external atmosphere; shutting close when extremely cold, but in moderate weather shut by degrees. Should there be a great steam and strong heat, which is sometimes the case in the early part after the bed is made, a small portion of air may be admitted during the night, to give vent to the rank steam, covering the aperture with a garden mat, hanging over it from the top of the glasses. This same precaution may be observed in defending the bed in the day time, when the steam and heat may render it necessary to admit fresh air, in exceeding cold weather.

When the heat of the bed has become moderate, keep the glasses close at night, but give air in favourable weather daily. Cover the glasses every evening about sun-set with garden mats, one, two, or three thick, according to the heat of the bed, uncovering in the morning, and when the earth appears dry, give light waterings; and be sure in the early stage of the bed to

examine it daily, and if the heat appears too violent, immediately draw up the pots, until the burning heat has subsided.

The plants may remain in the first or nursery frame till they have two or three rough leaves two or three inches broad; then they will be of proper growth for ridging out into the main fruiting hotbed.

MAKING THE FRUITING HOTBEDS FOR EARLY AND GENERAL CROPS OF MELONS; WITH

THEIR MANAGEMENT

LAID DOWN.

THEREIN

COPIOUSLY

Par. 52. We next proceed to prepare the hotbed for fruiting the melons: this should be made a week or more before finally transplanting the plants, or what is more generally termed ridging out for fruiting, in order that the bed may be of a proper temperature to receive them.

The bed should be made on the level ground, about three feet and a half high, of stable dung properly prepared, as before directed, and of such dimensions, horizontally, as the size and number of frames will require; but three light

frames are to be preferred for growing melons to maturity. As soon as the bed is made a proper height with the dung, and regularly levelled, place on the frame lights; and when the violent heat has subsided, which will generally be the case from about a week to ten days, bring in the earth, (that having been already prepared as before directed,) laying it in a round heap under the centre of each light, about a foot or fifteen inches thick, covering the other part of the bed only about three inches deep, until the heat has become more moderate.

When the hills or ridges of earth have become warm, either on the same or following day, put in the plants in the middle of the hill, removing them from the pots with the balls entire about the roots. Place two plants under each light, but some consider one plant sufficient in each hill, and particularly of the cantaleupe. When planted, give a little water round the extremities of the fibres, and then close the frames to draw up the heat; but when the steam begins to get strong, raise the lights at the back half an inch or more to give vent, and in the same manner

give air daily to the plants; or sometimes it is also necessary, in the early stage of the bed to admit a little air during the night, if the heat is violent and the steam strong; but in this case defend the aperture, by letting a garden mat hang over it from the top, and this will also be requisite in the day time, when the winds are cold and cutting; but when the heat is moderate, the frames may be kept close at night. Cover the glasses every evening about sunset with one or more mats thick, as the heat of the bed and the atmosphere will dictate.

It is a very essential thing in early hotbed forcing to lay dry litter round the sides, tolerably thick, which will greatly defend the beds from snow and heavy rains, and the inclemency of the weather generally. This will greatly prevent their chilling, and the heat from suddenly declining, which is often the case when this is not done, and frequently proves very injurious to the plants, and sometimes ends in the loss of the crop; but by the above precautionary protection in an early stage of the hotbed, the heat will continue regular, and of much longer duration.