CHAP. XI.

Warsaw, October, 1814.

WE felt, on crossing the boundary line of Russia, and entering into another nation, all that gratification to which the certainty of escape from bondage and despotism often exites. Before we could leave Grodno, we had the most frivolous and vexatious delays to contend with; the passports we had obtained at St. Petersburg could carry us no further, and we were obliged to obtain a governor's order to permit us to proceed to Warsaw. The delays and difficulties were endless. We had scarcely left the barrier gate when this order was inspected, our baggage ransacked, and the utmost trouble given to us. No less than three times were these endless and vexatious ceremonies practised in the spaee of three miles; and it was not untill after repeated trials of our patience, our temper, and our pockets, that we could disentangle ourselves from their snares, and bid the Russian frontiers adieu !

The Niemen, which we crossed on leaving Grodno, is deep and rapid, and about one hundred yards in width; its banks are steep, and broken with clay and gravel ruts: its scenery to the east, presents a pleasing landscape of forests and cultivated fields. The river is crossed by a floating bridge of planks. Numerous canoes scooped out of a single trunk of a tree, are seen on the river, similar to those of the American Indians; these are only large enough to contain one person who sits in the bottom of the boat and catches fish. Three miles from the Niemen we crossed a small stream, which is the boundary line between the Russian Empire and the duchy of Warsaw. a wooden bridge is thrown over this stream, one end of which is painted with black and white squares, denoting the Russian distinction; the other is red and white, that of Prussia. At the one end is stationed a Cossack sentry; at the other, a Polish police officer. We found no difficulty on entering the Polish side, as they seem, at present, not to know to which kingdom they belong, and perfectly indifferent about either; however of the two they are decidedly in favour of the Prussian yoke.

This first stage was over a rugged country, by a common track; the soil is covered with loose stones; the grass is strong and coarse. Large quantities of horse-raddish and wild celery (apium

graveolens) grow most luxuriantly over the fields. On many of the fir trees were fixed hollow trunks of trees, as beehives. We changed horses at Kusniza, a small village, and proceeded through a wild rough country, to a mean village, on the borders of an immense morass. This swamp is crossed on hurdles, which form the road. To this morass an extent of dry, loose, drifted sand succeeded, and which was again bounded by a second morass, more extensive than the former, and more spongy, yet covered with dwarf bushes and reeds. This was about five miles in breadth, and stretched on both sides as far as the eye could reach. The adjoining country consisted of sand and light loam, with their crops of buck wheat. A rudely formed harrow is used, which is dragged by a rope, fastened round the neck of the horse. Here we changed horses at a solitary farm-house, pleasantly situated on a dry rising ground; but bounded in front by another of those singular and extensive marshes. This was the first stage in Poland which used the Prussian emblem; the postillions were dressed in Prussian livery, and the lively sound of the bugle echoing through the forests, was now substituted for the constant jingling of the Russian bell. The Rus sian wersts only extend to Grodno, from which the Prusssian iniles commence, and the rate of posting rises to four-pence and a half for each

horse. The Prussian mile here is equal to four and a half English miles.

From Justrembne we rode through a large forest of fir trees, formning a dark and solemn avenue, and soon approached a fine lake, which we crossed at a narrow point by a wooden bridge. The scenery, though flat, is realy picturesque and beautiful. To Augustow, the next stage, we proceeded by a very heavy road of loose sand, and crossed the end of a small lake, by a long wooden bridge. Augustow is a small town, of tolerable wooden houses, built round a large wooden square, in the centre of which is a military guard-house. The streets are long, narrow, and full of mud; the population is about twelve hundred persons, who are all poles, fair, but not robust beards are not worn. The dress is generally a long cloth surtout, with a broad leather belt fastened round the waist. We remarked a fine breed of large dogs, and large flocks of hogs, but of a most ugly form: few horned cattle are reared, and no sheep. The horses are small and spiritless. From this town, the road continues over loose sand, the country is open, level, and well cultivated. We passed through a small forest, and three neat villages, adorned with little gardens, and reached the town of Baggreda, pleasantly situated on the side of a lake, which it straggles along. From this town we travelled

through a bleak sandy country, by a good road, but gradually entered on a better improved country. The habitations were now constructed of wicker-work, plaistered and thatched. We observed some large barns and farm yards, and an evident improvement towards comfort, beyond any thing in Lithuania. The houses were furnished with chairs and beds, &c. the inhabitants continue plain and simple, and without any peculiar character. There are very few Jews, and the German language is scarcely understood.

We now passed through a pleasant country, and woods of fir oak and elm; the former was nearly an hundred feet in height: the country was covered with flocks of cattle, of a small breed. Young rye was green above ground, the sowers were still busily employed, and every field presented an animated appearance. We now crossed the Narva, and entered the town of Lomza, situated on an eminence, and presenting a picturesque view. From Lomza a road leads to Konigsberg, and another to Bialystok. The Narva is a tolerably sized river, which has its source from three branches rising to the north in East Prussia, and from the east in Lithuania, These branches join at Ostrolensk, and afterwards fall into the Bug, one of the great and parrellel branches of the Vistula. By means of the Narva, great quantities of wood are annually