CHAP. V.

Zimogoire, August, 1814.

TAKING leave of this illustrious capital we were now to enter on those wild and desert plains, which separate it from its ancient rival and sister, Moscow; and as its towers faded from our sight, we could not but contemplate in our mind's

eye,

the glo

We

rious banners of war waving round them. could not but feel interested in the fate of those young bulwarks, which, although yet in their cradle, have, like the infant Hercules, strangled the serpent and given peace to a suffering world.

In taking a retrospect of this capital, it is impossible not to feel astonished at its youth, and its perfection. In the short space of little more than a century, have been reared those splendid fabrics, which must dazzle and delight every eye.

In the same short space have the manners and customs of a vast nation been reduced to a new standard. Civilization has not required time for its

growth, its seeds have shot up apace. Here, every thing dazzles and bewilders the eye; on acquaintance they appear the same, and show the ef fect of study. If we approach closer the secret spring is perceived, and little more remains than the mere outline of a vast and superficial system, uncreated, unconsolidated, and labouring under all the defects of a government, which, from its vigour, has become so unrestrained, and from its despotism, so capricious.

From the structure of its government has arisen, in a great measure, the moral structure of its inhabitants. The ties of society are, here, not so connected, as in those towns whose character is purely commercial. The chain seems to be broken in different, and distinct pieces. The military character proudly predominates, and, although it does not carry along with it any of the finer traits of chivalry or enthusiasm, still rank is the grand characteristic and ultimatum. To this all aspire, in their respective degrees, and, for this, all other considerations are neglected. The commercial part of society is small, and perfectly distinct. The sources of wealth chiefly arise from the sale of native produce, and its exportation. This sale is, comparatively speaking. confined to the hands of a few. Their agricultural resources, unless in the immediate vicinity of the

capital, towns and villages, are very slender, and, were it not for the privations, which their religion inculcates, would scarcely suffice for their existence.

As in all countries regulated by military character, where rank bears so extensive a sway, and where the government is purely despotic, the system of farming is discouraged, and held in a degraded view. Every one, particularly the nobles, must, more or less, mingle in the politics of the court. He must, more or less, entwine himself in the fate, on which it hangs, and, when once they cease to bask in the sunshine of its favour, they are probably exiled to their native lands.

Taking leave of St. Petersburg, the road conducted us through the southern suburbs of the city, and passed along a country, flat, covered with straggling plantations of birch, and partly cultivated. The first stage is greatly relieved by the showy palace of Tsarsko-Selo, occupying a large space of ground, and surrounded by extensive, and well laid out gardens, and pleasure grounds. The palace of Tsarsko-Selo, like most of the other public buildings in this country, exhibits a strange combination of architectural orders. Towards the north it fronts the road, which, suddenly turning at a right angle, passes by an arched gateway under the west wing. This is one of the emperor's country pala

ces, which, in summer, is often the scene of gayety and festivity.

the

However much the palaces in Russia may offend

eye of a fastidious architect, from the disorderly arrangements of their design; yet, in a country so remote and uncultivated, the effect is certainly pleasing, and produces one of the most agreeable features in the general sombre cast of the landscape. Gothicism in building is more allowable in unimproved countries, than in the neighbourhood of cities; however much it may detract from the received opinion of the Grecian school, yet, until the standard of beauty is fixed, opinions must ever vary. A traveller cannot avoid remarking, that a Russian' palace is an ornament to the country.

We changed horses at Tossna, the second stage from St. Petersburg. Nothing can present a greater contrast than the appearance of the villages from the capital. The one is all splendour, and show, the others look as so many heaps of rotten wood, the abodes of filth and vermin. These houses are entirely built of wood. The unshapen trunks of trees are laid one above another and dove-tailed at the corners, while a quantity of dry moss is placed between the seams. The gables front the road, and are ornamented by a light gallery, and pent-roof. The only window used, is a small square hole, which