very high mountains, and traversed in several directions by foaming torrents. The curate partook of our dinner, after we had removed the table to the door of the inn; for he durst neither eat nor drink within the walls of a public house. We found him a modest conversable man, worthy of a richer settle

ment.

After dinner we travelled towards the head of the

Gave, the object of our journey. We had long had in view the snow-capped-cliffs from which its waters issue, but were surprised to find them still so distant from us. We spent an hour and a half in riding across a bare track of pasture, closed in with immense forests of evergreens on the French side, along the Spanish frontier, which lies on the right hand, confined by bare rocky mountains. This plain is called the Prade. The river follows a serpentine course through it. In winter it is generally covered with snow forty feet deep.

Our guide having now brought us to his ne plus ultra, pressed us earnestly to alight, as no horse ever advanced beyond this pass. But as we were not contented with so distant a view, we rejected his timid advice, and clambering over several rocky eminences, plunged into the river, which by its limpidity deceived our eye, both as to the depth of water, and the size of the rocks at the bottom. It required our utmost exertions to extricate our horses, and bear them safe through to the opposite bank. This difficulty being overcome, all others appeared contemptible, and we soon reached the centre of a most stupendous amphitheatre. Three sides of it are formed by a range of perpendicular rocks: the fourth is shaded with wood. Above the upright wall, which is of a horrible height, rise several stages of broken masses, each covered with a layer of everlasting snow. The mountain eastward ends in sharp pinnacles, and runs off to the west in one immense bank of snow. From these concealed heaps the Gave derives its ex

cellence. Thirteen streams rush down the mighty precipice, and unite their waters at its foot.

In

The whole western corner of the area below is fil led with a bed of snow, which being struck by few rays of the sun at any season, receives a sufficient volume of fresh snow every winter, to balance the loss occasioned by the warmth of the atmosphere in summer. Two of the torrents fall upon this extensive frozen surface. They have worn a huge chasm, and extending from it, a vaulted passage five hundred yards in length, through which their waters roll. We boldly rode over this extraordinary bridge, and alighting at the foot of the rocks, walked down the passage. The snow lies above it near twenty feet thick. The roof is about six feet above the ground, and finely turned in an arch, which appears as if it had been cut and chisseled by the hand of mau. some places there are columns and collateral galleries. The whole glittered like a diamond, and was beautifully pervaded by the light. The only inconvenience we felt, arose from the dripping occasioned by the extreme heat of the day, by which even this great body of snow was strongly affected. As we emerged with the river from this singular grotto, we unharboured three chamoy goats, that had taken refuge in the mouth of the cave, against the burning rays of noon. They darted across the plain, and ascended the steepest parts of the rocks, where we soon lost sight of them. These animals are called Ysards in this country. They are rather smaller than the fallow deer, of a muddy readish-yellow colour, with snubbed nose, and short black horns. In shape they resemble a deer, walking with their head upright, and skipping away with admirable swiftness. But they do not bound; they run when at full stretch.. No beast of the forest is of more difficult access. They seldom quit the highest and most inaccessible parts of the mountains. During the wintry storms they have been seen fixed on the brow of a precipice, with their faces towards the wind, probably to pre

vent the rain and snow from lodging under their hair.

Notwithstanding their suspicious, wild nature, and their extreme velocity, the hardy mountaineers find means to destroy them. They lie out whole days and nights watching their opportunity, and making good use of it when it offers; for they are excellent marksmen. They have frequently as much difficulty in reaching the dead prey, as the approaching it while living. The flesh of the Isard is much esteemed. Its skin makes soft and useful gloves.

The setting of the sun roused us from the ecstacy in which the contemplation of these awful scenes had enwraped every sense, and warned us to retire before the want of light should render those passages doubly dangerous, which we had found very dfficult even in the glare of day. The sun sunk behind the snowy cliffs in admirable beauty, tinging the mountains with a rich variety of fiery hue, which died away into the most tender tints of purple.

The mountains abound with game, the rivers with fish. Here are no lords of manorial rights, and therefore game is the property of every member of the community that can catch it. Except some tracts of wood reserved for the navy, all the forests are held in common. SWINBURNE.

SECT. XCII.

OF PORTUGAL IN GENERAL; THE PRODUCE OF THE COUNTRY, AND THE CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE.

THE kingdom of Portugal is situated to the west of Spain, from which it is separated on the north and the east by the river Minho, and some small rivers and hills; on the south and west it is washed by the sea. Its whole extent from north to south is three hundred miles, and its breadth from east to west, where broadest, is about one hundred and twenty.

It is in the same climate with Spain, and as well as that country, is very mountainous; but the soil is in general worse, and never produces corn enough for the support of its inhabitants. As to wheat, it has always produced less of that valuable grain, than what the people require. In the southern parts pasture is always scarce, and the cattle small and lean, though the flesh is generally well-tasted. But to make amends for this want of corn and pasture, here are made vast quantities of wine, which is indeed the best commodity of this kingdom. Oil is also made here in great abundance, but it is far inferior to that of Spain and Italy. Lemons and oranges likewise grow here; and are exported in great quantities, though the acidity of the latter is not near so pleas ant as those that come from Seville; nor indeed are their raisins, figs, almonds, and chesnuts, either so large, or so well tasted as those of Spain. However their sweet oranges, which they have introduced from China, and are thence called China oranges are the best of the kind in Europe. Herbs and flowers of all sorts are here commonly very good, and abun dance of perfumed waters are distilled form those of the odoriferous kind, which are here in great request, they being used in almost every thing that is eat, drink, or worn.

The woollen manufactures of this country are so indifferent and coarse, that they are only worn by the meaner sort; and though their silks are in some places much better, they are far inferior in beauty and goodness to those made in Spain.

The modern Portuguese retain nothing of that adventurous enterprizing spirit that rendered their forefathers so illustrious three hundred years ago. They have, ever since the house of Braganza mounted the throne, degenerated in all their virtues ; though some noble exceptions are still remaining among them, and no people are so little obliged as the Portuguese are to the reports of historians and tavel

lers. The degeneracy is evidently owing to the weak ness of their monarchy, which renders them inactive; and that inactivity has proved the source of pride, and other unmanly vices. Treachery has been laid to their charge, as well as ingratitude, and, above all,, an intemperate passion for revenge. They are, if possible, more superstitious, and, both in high and common life, affect more state than the Spaniards themselves. Among the lower people thieving is commonly practised; and all ranks are accused of being unfair in their dealings, especially with strangers. It is hard, however, to say what alteration may be made in the character of the Portuguese, by the expulsion of the Jesuits, and the diminution of the papal influence among them, but, above all, by that spirit of independency, with regard to commercial affairs, upon Great Britain, which, not much to the honour of their gratitude, though to the interest of their own country, is now so much encouraged by their court and ministry.

The Portuguese are neither so tall nor so well made as the Spaniards, whose habits and customs they imitate; only the quality affect to be more gaily and richly dressed.

The women are mostly beautiful when young, though their complexion is inclinable to the olive; but the indiscreet use of paint renders their skins shrivelled as with old age, before they are turned of thirty. Their eyes, however, which are generally black and sparkling, retain their lustre after their other charms are withered. The quick decay of beauty is in some measure recompensed by the vivacity of their wit, in which they are said to excel the women of all other nations. They are extremely charitable and generous, and remarkable for their modesty.

Spectacles are commonly worn here as well as in Spain, as a mark of age and gravity; for it is observable of these two nations, that old age, with a grave and solemn behaviour, procure such respect, that the young affect to imitate the solemnity of the old.

Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is built upon seven