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HISTORY OF THE COSTUME OF MEN,

DURING THE EIGHTEENTH AND THE BEGINNING OF THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.

BY FAYETTE ROBINSON.

(Continued from page 198.)

Nor does the following present a much greater | infinite varieties of palelots, sacks and Hongroises. difference, and, but for the ear-rings and knee. The boot-black represented in the cut is a miniature breeches, would pass muster even now amid our l bonnet-rouge.

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It is worth while to state that costumes, like hearts of half the women of Philadelphia, are still opinions, reproduce themselves. As the ideas which every day to be seen. were once in vogue, and have been abandoned, re- The same thing is observable in female costume. turn and resume their influence and orthodoxy, so The long waists, light sleeves and full skirts of old do the costumes of other days continually reappear, times have returned, and even the ungainly ruffs of it is true, with a difference often striking enough, for Queen Elizabeth's age have shown a disposition to men no longer wear either coats of mail or inex-return. The mode of dressing the hair is also repressibles of velvet, yet the Norman cloak of the tracing itself, so that there is little real difference Black Prince, and the sack of Lauzun, the hand between the traditional court-dress of former times some French colonel, who, during our own Revolu- and that of every-day life worn at present, except tionary war, turned the heads and carried away the the train.

The following is a caricature of that day, but all the world was bearded; so during the days of scarcely more outré than the bearded creatures from Cromwell were his ironsides, and now men who time to time seen in our own streets. It may be re- never saw a shot fired, force the sublime into the marked that the passion for hair on the face always ridiculous, by parading a moustache in every thois consequent on a war. In the time of Henri IV. I roughfare throughout the country.

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Who knows but that our own Mexican war may Other nations of Europe did not participate in the exert an influence on dress, and that some day the French Revolution, but became imitators of the cosRanchero's striped blanket and broad-brimmed hat tumes it created. We have now come to the period may become the fashion. Men will stalk about the of the Directory, which exerted its influence on cosstreets in boots of cow-hide, and instead of hunting rume, or rather the influence of which was reflected with dogs and rifles, the lazo or lariette will be by the costume of the day. adopted universally. All the world knows that im- The Directory and Consulate sawall France seized mediately after the return of the army of the Duke with fury for the antique. These were the days of of Wellington to England, from Waterloo, the mili- j the Romaines and Atheniennes, when David was tary black stock was adopted, and it may be that the toiling with the pencil to effect a reform of costume, green pantaloons with the brown stripe, now worn, and when Talma sought to introduce correct ideas are an imitation of the dress of the Mexican veterans of dress on the stage. The men of Paris still adwho were defeated at Cherebusco. The same may hered to the English costume, which, fortified by be said of the cloth caps, with the covers of oil-skin, their fiat, became that of the world. They compronow so much in vogue. It may be remarked that mised their English predilections, however, so far as this article of dress has always followed the tenue of to wear their hair à la Titus or à la Caracalla, the army, the flat cap replacing the hussar's, as the what that was may be seen from the following latter did the old gig-top leather apparatus.

engraving.

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They seemed, however, to struggle to make this street as the boots and the hat. To young Thelusson, costume as unbecoming as possible, wearing the when thus dressed and armed, Madame de Stael, coats loose, the collars immense, the breasts small, who wore an oriental toilette, said, “Citizen, you and such pantaloons and shocking bad hats as were bear the sceptre of ridicule.” “Madame," replied never seen before or since. The costume of a dandy he, “you are certainly competent to award it to of 1798 consisted of a blue coat, a white waistcoat, whom you please.” Never were there so many open in the breast, a finely worked shirt-bosom, strange costumes seen in any one city as in Paris fastened with a diamond pin, a huge muslin cravat, at that time, when peruques, powder, hair à la Nankin pantaloons, with black stripes down the Titus, cocked and round hats all were mingled toseams, and thrust into the boots. (In society the bool gether. Costume was indeed republican if the govwas replaced by a small and pointed shoe.) The ernment was despotic. everlasting bludgeon was as indispensable in the

[Conclusion in our next.

THE BEAUTIFUL OF EARTH.

ALL Nature's beauteous forms, of light, of earth, or air, or Are things of naught, in contrast with the angels of our sky,

home: Compare not with the flexile frame, the lustrous, speaking all gentle acts, all noble thoughts, of Heaven-directed eye;

birth, The opening flower, the rainbow tint, the blue and star- Are centered in the fair and good, the beautiful of earth.

lit dome,

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CAROLINA OR MOCKING WREN. This interesting bird is strictly southern in its / air may be conceived from its interpretation by the habits, being rarely found north of Maryland and youths of the country, who pretend to hear it say, Delaware, while it abounds during the whole year sweet-heart, swčet-heart, swěet ! nor is the illusion in the warmer states. Occasionally it strays to the more than the natural truth, for, usually, this affecvicinity of Philadelphia and even of New York; tionate ditty is answered by its mate, sometimes in but this is so seldom that the indefatigable Wilson the same note, at others in a different call. In most never found its nest north of the Maryland line. cases, it will be remarked, that the phrases of our Like the House-Wren it is a sprightly, industrious songster are uttered in 3s; by this means it will be and familiar bird, and a general favorite in the neigh generally practicable to distinguish its performance borhood where it abounds. Other qualities render from that of other birds, and particularly from the its nature so ambiguous that some have hesitated 10 Cardinal Grosbeak, whose expression it often closely place it among the Wrens. One of the most re- imitates, both in power and delivery. I shall never, markable of these is its power of imitating the songs I believe, forget the soothing satisfaction and amuse. of other birds. With much sweetness and accuracy it ment I derived from this litle constant and unweablends its own notes with the simple twittering of ihe ried minstrel, my sole vocal companion through many Ground-Robin, the harsh noise of the Woodpecker, weary miles of a vast, desolate, and otherwise cheerthe trilling of the Blackbird and Warbler, and the less wilderness." whistling of the Cardinal. These are its favorite The food of the Carolina Wren consists of the inimitations; but its powers of mimicry embrace the sects found in old timber, and along the banks of songs of almost all our forest-birds. But not with streams, places which it delights to frequent. It is standing this capriciousness in sounds, the Carolina found among the thick cypress swamps of the south Wren is said to have a favorite theme, repeated even in the middle of winter. It can see well in the more regularly than any other. Nuttall thus plea- dark, sometimes searching food in caves, where to santly describes it. “This was the first sound that most other day birds objects would be undistinguish. I heard from him, delivered with great spirit, though able. Its building places are a barn, or stable, some in the dreary month of January. This sweet and old decayed tree, or even a post-fence. The female melodious ditty, tsee-toot, tsee-toot, tsee-toot, and lays from five to eight eggs, of a dusky white, mot. sometimes tsee-toot, tsee toot-seet, was usually utter- tled with brown. Two broods are raised in a season, ed in a somewhat plaintive or tender strain, varied and sometimes even three. The adult bird is five at each repetition with the most delightful and deli- and a quarter inches long, of a chestnut brown, beaucate tones, of which no conception can be formed tifully mottled with black and other colors. The without experience. That this song has a sentimental female differs little in color from the male.

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This bird is known under the names of Virginia | ever, has often been the result of long confinement, Red Bird, Virginia Nightingale and Crested Red although with care this might perhaps be obviated. Bird. It is one of the most beautiful of American They are lively in the cage, and maintain their songsters, and in power and sweeiness of tone it has powers of song to the last. Numbers of them are been compared with the Nightingale. The species carried to France and England, where they are belongs mostly to the United States and Mexico, but highly esteemed. Their time of song lasts from has been found in considerable numbers in the West March to September. Indies, Central America and Colombja. Although The Cardinal Bird's song consists of a favorite delighting in a southern clime, it is sometimes ob- stanza often repeated, with boldness, variety of tone served in Pennsylvania, and even New England. and richness. Its whistling somewhat resembles that Being migratory, it often flies in large flocks, pre- of the human voice, though its energy is much senting a splendid appearance, especially when greater. In his native grove, his voice rises above moving in relief over a clear sky, and in the rays of almost every other songster except the Mockingthe sun. At other times several of these birds are Bird. The powers of the female are almost equal to found associated with Sparrows, Snow-Birds and those of the male, of whom she is a most constant other half domestic species. When alone his favorite and affectionate partner. haunts are the corn-field, small clumps of trees, and Latham admits that the notes of the Cardinal" are the borders of shaded rivulets. Corn is their favorite almost equal to those of the Nightingale," the sweet. food, in addition to which they eat seeds of fruit, est of the feathered minstrels of Europe. But, says grain and insects. They are easily domesticated, Nuttall," the style of their performance is wholly even when taken quite old, and require very little different. The bold martial strains of the Red Bird, trouble in order to thrive well. Loss of color, how. I though relieved by tender and exquisite touches, pos.

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