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century to modify French costume, by assimilating all classes, we must in the first place mention the influence of what is now called Anglo-mania. Even as far back as Louis XV., the young nobles had become accustomed to visit England, where they acquired new habits if not new ideas. England for a time was the sovereign of fashion, and hats were worn à la Tamise instead of à la Seine. The nobles, in imitation of the English, ruined themselves by extravagance in horses and equipages. Quarrels arose about the good looks of jockeys, and princes of the blood and dukes transformed themselves into coachdrivers. Marie Antoinette even took pride in the dexterity with which she handled the whip and reins of a pony-phaeton. The revolution has naturalized in France many political phrases, but long before that French ears and the French palate had grown used to punch, or ponche as they called it, and both sexes had become accustomed to cover up their costume with the redingote, or English riding coat. Tea canes and hats were ultimately adopted, also from England.

The revolution in England, and the round-head ideas it evolved, had much simplified English costume, and by the Anglo-mania this simplicity was now reflected back on France, and continued to as late a day as the revolution. In 1786 the English costume was frequently seen in the streets of Paris, and contributed in a great degree to dissipate the air of pretension which yet animated French society. The English boot was adopted almost universally, and gaiters became as common as in London. The loose locks of the English sailors were also imitated, and this was a severe blow on the old costume, an important portion of which was the coiffure. The three-cornered cocked was replaced by the jockey's round hat, a ridiculous and ungainly thing which no taste can make becoming, and no art make comfortable. The probability, however, is that it will become universal, and that some day all the world will wear this head-piece.

This mutual imitation continued until the adoption of Napoleon's Continental system, which, as is well known, separated England from all intercourse with Europe. When peace had put an end to the long wars this system had occasioned, and Englishmen again came on the Continent, their appearance struck each other as supremely ludicrous, as the apparition of one of our own grandfathers in the gigantic waistcoat and the bag wig they wore would seem to us in a modern drawing-room.

admirable representation of which is to be seen in the making up of James Wallack, senior, for one of his many admirable impersonations, called David Duvigne, in that pretty two act drama of the "Hazard of the Die." This costume is scarcely worthy of remark, except on account of the red Italian cap, a garment far more graceful than our hat, but proscribed on account of the horrors enacted by those who wore it. It, however, never was worn except in France, and we may well enough drop it here forever.

Yet people must not think there was no richness of costume during the republic There was as much extravagance as ever, only every one dressed according to his own whim. There were fops, too, called Muscadins incroyables and mervilleux, who aped the manners of the old marquis. One great trait of these was they were all near-sighted, and could not pronounce the letter R. They were the prototypes of our own dandies, as may be seen by the following specimen :

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Before, however, an universal costume had been adopted the revolution came. Fortunes were swept away, palaces lost, and the people who inhabited them dispersed. We here lose sight of powdered hair forever, for both sexes cut their hair short, and shoes with strings were universally adopted. The reign of terror came, sans-culottism was the rage. The red cap of liberty, the houppelande of red worsted, or the carmagnole usurped the place of the plumed hat and the graceful roquelaure. Open shirt collars and a knotted stick, like the Irish shilelah, does not differ greatly from the dress of our own day. were indispensible accompaniments to this dress, an

This costume was imitated over all the world, and, except in the hat, breeches and ribbons at the knee,

[To be continued.

THE ADVENTURES OF A MAN

"WHO COULD NEVER DRESS WELL."

BY M. TOPHAM EVANS.

"HANG it!" I exclaimed, as I thrust the poker violently into the grate, and slammed myself into an arm-chair before the fire, "I am the most unfortunate rascal in the world!"

I had just returned from the Hon. Mrs. Scatter's squeeze. I can't imagine why it should be the case, but it seems to be my unlucky destiny either to be thrust or to thrust myself eternally into the most inappropriate places possible. What the deuce should have taken me there? I know, that I have no business at such assemblies-yet, oh, Julia!"

She waltzed with that fool, Fitzcrocky. The fellow has n't a particle of brain, but such a moustache! And then the style of his dress. With what elegant ease he sports his habiliments! Such perfect taste in their arrangement, and so harmonious the tout ensemble! Then look at me. They were whispering. He cast a sneering glance at my exterior. I know she laughed at me. Zounds, I could tear my hair

to tatters!

I never could dress well. If I have a handsome and well-made coat, the vest and pants are sure to be of the most unsuitable colors. That infernal tailor, I verily believe, takes every advantage to make me appear disadvantageously; and I could swear that he palms all his unsaleable remnants upon me. Let me see how he has figged me out for what I intended to be the victorious campaign of this evening. Scipio, wheel up that cheval glass. Gods and fishes! A purple coat with silver filagree buttons-a white satin vest-scarlet under ditto-light drab pantaloons, and a check cravat! Black silk stockings and pumps with rosettes. Jupiter and Moses! Why I look like one of Bunbury's caricatures! Tregear's shop-window never exhibited such a monster. No wonder they laughed at me. Ha! ha! By Jove, I can't help laughing at myself, and it's no joking matter, after I had laid myself out to make a deep impression.

There, Scipio, draw the curtains and go. Stay; hand me the brandy-bottle and some cigars before you make your final exit. I might as well get drunk, and by that means bury my woes in a temporary oblivion, despite of all temperance societies.

Give me my dressing-gown, and pitch this infernal coat out at the widow. Ha! here's another specimen of my undeniable taste. What man, save myself, would ever encase himself in a brocade of a pattern like a bed-curtain. No matter; your Persian says it is all takdeer-destiny. All this, I presume, was fore-ordained—it must have been predestined, this atrocious, villainous piece of business, and I suppose I can't help it. Scipio, go to bed.

Scipio retired, and I was left alone. The night was dark and confoundedly cold. I picked up a

volume. It was Peter Schlemihl. I lighted a cigar, and mixing some strong brandy-and-water, I applied myself to the business which the reader has been previously informed I had in contemplation.

But all would not do. I could not succeed in my intention. I smoked one Dos Amigos after another, and quaffed glass after glass of Seignette. The more I drank, in the more odious light did I appear to myself. I ruminated upon Julia's flirtation with Fitzcrocky. I attempted to analyze the causes of my abominable want of taste in the components of costume.

"Deuce take me!" at last I cried, exhausted, and half mad with vexation, "I wish to Heaven that I could exchange this unlucky carcass with some more fortunate individual, whose kinder stars may have granted him a comelier body and a more recherché taste in its decoration than my miserable self!"

Scarcely had I spoken these words when a gentle cough attracted my attention. I looked up. Opposite to me there sat a gentleman of the most prepos sessing exterior. He had drawn up a lounge to the side of the grate, and was seated, with patient politeness, as if in expectation of drawing my attention to himself. He was attired in a neat and elegant suit of black, which fitted him à merveille. A dark maroon velvet vest, buttoned tightly to his chest, and falling over into a rolling collar, displayed his linen of superb make and texture, fastened by a small diamond pin. His cravat was tied with a prim precision; his boots and gloves would have driven Staub and Walker to despair. His hat was of the most appropriate block, and a cambric handkerchief, delicate as the web of Arachne, and scented with bouquet du roi, was occasionally applied to his nose, in the most graceful manner. The contour of his face was perfect Grecian, and a mass of wavy chestnut-hair was negligently disposed over his forehead. He wore neither whisker nor moustache.

For some time I sat in silent amazement, wondering how my guest had procured his entreé, inasmuch as I knew that all the doors were locked and bolted, and that my janitor had gone to bed some hour and a half previous to the stranger's appearance. He sat in equal silence. Presently he arose, and pouring out a glass of brandy, he swallowed it in a twinkling, bowing to me with infinite gravity. He next produced a long and slender meerschaum from his pocket, lighted it with a pastille ambreé, and resuming his seat, his eyes traveled over my attire from head to foot, with an air of well-bred curiosity. My bile began to work.

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I could have hugged him, for I was almost beside myself with delight.

The stranger, carelessly desisting from his investigation, expelled a mouthful of smoke, and with a kind of concealed chuckle, which I did not half like, "How can I thank you for your kindness," I exreplied, claimed, for my old attire looked doubly ridiculous "Pray, sir, may I, without infringing upon pro- to my new optics. "I do assure you, sir, that I am priety, inquire of you, who is your tailor?"

My hand inadvertently sought the decanter, and I had a vague idea of hurling it at my visiter's head. One moment's reflection, together with a glance at the well-made and sine wy form before me, determined me to waive hostilities.

"I cannot imagine, sir," I replied, with severe dignity, "your motives in making any such inquiry." "Oh, a mere trifle. I was anxious to become acquainted with the name of your fashioner, who, to judge from the appearance of your habiliments, must possess a most exquisite taste."

For a moment, I had suspicions that my amis inconnu was quizzing me. I eyed him narrowly, but the expression of his face was that of respectful earnestness, mingled with some curiosity. Not the slightest trace of a quiz could be detected upon his immovable aspect.

"If you are really anxious to know," said I, and I confess I felt naturally gratified, for it was the first compli.nent I had ever heard addressed to my taste, "I can refer you to Cabbage & Stickem, Oxford street."

"I could almost wish to exchange my vile taste in costume for your more original and certainly more refined style," said the stranger, without moving a single muscle of his face.

"And I," I cried, seizing him by the hand, "highly as I feel flattered by such a declaration, would willingly make such an exchange, if it were possible to do so."

"We shall find it very possible," replied the stranger. "Come, let us take a glass to our better acquaintance. I am charmed to have it in my power to confer an obligation upon a gentleman like yourself, especially when it meets so exactly with my own inclinations."

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Egad," said I, as we hob-nobbed very cordially together, "I am agreed to make the exchange directly."

I had no sooner said the word than I felt a most violent blow at the back of my head. On my recovery, for it almost stunned me, I was stupefied with astonishment, upon looking up, to behold myself sitting at my ease, and smoking with great insouciance, upon the very seat which I had previously occupied in propria persona.

"Be so good, worthy sir," said I, or the figure I saw seated in my-arm chair, "to look in yonder glass, and you will discover that your wishes have been complied with."

I stepped to the cheval, and to my unspeakable amazement and joy, viewed in the reflection the person of the elegant gentleman with whom I had exchanged exteriors.

"I hope," said the personage who rejoiced in my original ugliness and odious garments, "that this exchange is entirely to your satisfaction?"

forever at your service."

"That's it," said the gentleman with a peculiar smile, which in the plenitude of my joy I did not notice at the time, although I recollected it afterward perfectly well. "And now, as it grows late, I will bid you good evening."

As he spoke, I saw my ancient figure walk quietly out at the door. I don't know, but I thought I heard him laugh a little after closing it. For my own part I was so elated, that I could not think of going to bed, so I sat drinking and singing, building castles in the air, and ruminating upon the magnificent figure which I should oppose against the fascinations of Fitzcrocky, in the eyes of Julia. I determined, with the afternoon of that day, to commence my triumphal progress in her affections. In fact, I never noticed how time slipped by, and when the entrance of some one at the door aroused me, and I collected my scattered senses, it was at least four hours after sunrise. Gollamighty!" exclaimed the voice of Scipio. "What de debbil we got heah? Trange man in massa's bed-room, and he not up yit. What you want, eh? He some tief-some robber."

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Why you old fool," said I, "don't you see it's me-myself?"

"Who me?-what dat, eh? Debbil tak me if I no b'lieve dat he has murdered massa and teal all de spoons! Help! murder!"

"What do you mean, you old villain!" cried I. 'Do you want to bring in the whole neighborhood?" and seizing a candlestick, I leveled it at his woolly pate.

"What do you mean, you scoundrel, by abusing my servant?" roared a voice from the bed. I looked in that direction. There was my head protruded from the curtains, surmounted by a red night-cap, and a clenched fist was violently shaken at me from the same purlieu.

"Turn him out, Scipio!" I shouted.

"Turn him out!" repeated my Eidolon, if I may so term him.

"Turn who out!" queried Scipio, in a state of profound bewilderment.

Perfectly frantic with rage, I flew toward the bed, eager for a pugilistic encounter, when the door was thrown open, and my old housekeeper, with pallid visage, peeped into the apartment. I determined to make an appeal to her.

"Am I, or am I not your master, Nancy?" said I, in a very melancholy tone.

"You my master! Come up, mister himperence," replied Nancy. "My master is in yonder bed, young man. Run, Sip, and call a policeman. He'll make you know your master, jail-bird."

"Ah!" thought I, "it's all up, I see. That fel low's me, and I'm somebody else, but hang me if I know who. Well, as I don't choose to take a morning airing at Hatton Garden, I might as well abdicate

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at once. But," cried I, "you scoundrel, you shall pay for this."

"Turn him out, Sip!" grunted my former voice from the bed. How hateful it sounded! "Turn him out, and don't let me be disturbed till twelve. My head aches confoundedly."

I sneaked out of my own room like a detected pickpocket, Nancy and Scipio attending me down stairs, and delivering a brace of running lectures upon the evil courses which I was pursuing, admonishing me likewise of the certain and ignominious end which awaits such depraved and dissolute characters as I was presumed to be. At the foot of the stairs, Scipio insisted upon searching me, an operation to which, crest-fallen as I was, I did not pretend to make the slightest opposition. I was then dismissed in the same manner with Master Candide from the château of Thonderdentronck, namely with grands coups de pied dans le derriere, pretty well administered by a brace of sturdy valets, whom Scipio had summoned to his assistance from a neighboring area.

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"Blast your Brummm traps!" quoth that gentleman. "D'ye think a Bristol stone, or go gone. of now a diamond from you hbec? It was pinchbeck, by Jup The waiter must have been tahed by the despair depicted upon my countenance With a grim smile,

"Come, my fine chap," said he, "if you are a bilk, it's plain that you're a new hand at the trade, and I don't care about being too hard upon you. Give me your wipe, and I'll let you off for this time, but you take care you does n't come the swell mob again over this 'ere house, that 's all."

My heart was too full for speech. I gave him my handkerchief with a profound sigh, and throwing the pinchbeck breastpin into the coal-scuttle, I vanished with all convenient speed.

Leaving the coffee-house, I espied my crony, Dick Buffers, across the street. To join him was but the work of a moment.

"Hollo, Dick!" said I, slapping him heartily upon the shoulder. This was the irrepressible outpouring of a bosom, into. which a ray of light, imparted by hope, had penetrated, cheering the darksome abode with its enlivening presence. Quickly was my joy turned into sorrow.

"What do you mean, sir?" said Dick, drawing himself up with magnificent reserve. "Do you mean to insult me?"

"Come, Dick," said I, in a sort of whimper, for I was really becoming very much alarmed, "don't put a strange face on the matter. It is n't possible that you do n't know your old friend, Flash

This ejection from my own mansion took place about half past nine o'clock. In the first impulses of my rage and despair, I resolved to apply to my friends, in order to establish my identity by their testimonies. It was early; too early in fact to find any of them up, and I was fain to stroll the streets until the lingering hands of the clock should signify the proper and canonical hour of rising. So I patrolled Hyde Park for an hour or so, until my insides began to give me very unequivocal tokens of their desire for breakfast. Rage, as well as love and all other sublunary matters, must yield to the calls of hunger.ington Highflyer? Why we only parted at midnight, I entered a coffee-house in Upper Brook street, and and dined together no later than yesterday.” ordered my morning meal. I drank a couple of cups of tea, ate a French roll and a modicum of raw beefsteak, and walked to the bar to pay my bill. I put my hand into my pocket in search of my purse. It was not there. I tried another, and another, and yet another pocket. Horrid to relate, I could not meet with the smallest coin of the realm! The waiter began to look very black, and I could overhear the monosyllable" bilk" ground out between his teeth in a tone which indicated profound aversion and contempt. My hair fairly stood on end. Nevertheless I thought it best to brazen it out.

"Do you see, my good fellow," said I, and I assure you, I spoke in a very bland and courteous tone, "I have most unaccountably forgotten my purse-"

"Gammon!" was the very significant response of the Ganymede. "How d'ye know you ever had one?"

"Confound your impudence, fellow!" said I, nettled by the coolness of the query. "What d'ye mean by insulting a gentleman?"

"More like a swell out o' luck," growled the servitor. "Come, young 'un, this here kind of a job's no go. Post the cole, my boy, or it'll be the worse for somebody."

As luck would have it, I thought of my diamond breastpin, and taking that article of jewelry from my shirt front, I offered it to the waiter.

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Highflyer!" said Buffers. "To be sure I know him, and very well, too. We undoubtedly did dine together yesterday, although cannot account for your knowledge of the fact. But it will take even more than your impudence to convince me that you are the man. You must be either drunk or a fool. Flashington Highflyer! ha! ha! Your very dress convicts you of a lie."

Buffers might have spared this sarcasm.

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Upon my honor, Richard Buffers," said I, solemnly, while the tears actually stood in my eyes, "I am that most unfortunate man."

"You are? Why, the man's mad! View that looking glass in yonder shop-window, and if you hav n't been looking into the glass too often this morning already, you will discover that your countenance bears not the slightest resemblance to that of Mr. Highflyer, that is, if you are at all acquainted with the physiognomy of the gentleman to whose name you have laid claim."

I stepped to the window. One glance was suffi cient. Oh! how I cursed my super-lunatic folly, and how I longed for my former shape.

"Egad, it's true," I soliloquized. "It's all correct, as my Yankee friends have it. That rascal has got into possession of my goods and chattels, as well as of my person, and has left me nothing in return but a most confoundedly disagreeable sense of my own

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It was needles, to disturb my remaining acquaintance for proofs of my identity, as, indeed, if any body had demanded of me my address, I should have been amazingly puzzled to give it. I turned about, entirely reckless of whither I went. Twelve, one o'clock went by. I met many of my acquaintance, but there was no recognition. I was in despair, and could have sat down upon the curb-stone and wept. My walk procured me one thing, it is true, namely, a very good appetite; but I could have readily dispensed with that, inasmuch as I was painfully conscious that, without pawning my coat, I was utterly unable to satisfy the cravings of hunger.

with a better will, or with more effect, than I did. Timor additit alas. On I rushed, amidst the cla

was my next very natural mor, and dust, and clatter of the yelling multitude, as if the avenger of blood had been behind me. I had been a sportsman, and never did a Leicestershire fox lead a squad of Meltonians such a circumbendibus as I did my pursuers. One by one they gave in the noise died away gradually, and I was safe. When partially recovered, I found myself within a queer, dark-looking old court, in the neighborhood of Hertford street and Brick Lane. I was surrounded by a multitude of crazy, tottering, reeking houses, apparently the abodes of no living beings, save Jew clothesmen, oyster venders, pawnbrokers, and gin dealers. A squalid, miserable, broken-down dogkennel it was too! Tattered children ran about, dabbling in the filthy gutters, indulging in the mockery of play. Rough looking men, wrapped in heavy pea-coats and coarse jackets, with red and bloated faces, lounged about the doors of the various dealers, and haggard, wretched-looking women might have been descried entering the dens of the pawnbrokers, in hopes to raise some pittance of money for the purchase of food or liquor, by pledging paltry articles of dress or furniture. I sat down on the pavement side and stared around me. The scene was altogether dissimilar to any thing I had been in the habit of witnessing, and it was an interesting though a painful novelty. Good God! the misery, and wretchedness, and grinding poverty, deadening to the heart, which exist in large cities, within ken of opulence, of luxury and of splendor! O! could the voice of these wretched throngs be heard, in its collected wailing, what a cry of despairful agony would go up to the throne of the Everlasting! Dead souls in living sepulchres, stalking their gloomy round of poverty, neglect and wo-uneducated, ungodly, famine-stricken-what hope is there for them in this world, and, word of horror, what in the next!

The hours rolled on. The force of habit, I presume, led me to Hyde Park once more. All the world was abroad. Beauty, rank and fashion were collected in one splendid, aristocratic mass. Carriages and four, with servants in gorgeous liveries; every variety of vehicle, from the dashing tandem to the humbler carriage and pair, tilburies, buggy-wagons, and cabs thronged and thundered around the ring. Horsemen dashed along the carriage-ways, and pedestrians crowded the footpaths. I sat down upon a bench and mechanically surveyed the scene. Every wellknown face, which was wont to greet me with smiles, but which now bestowed upon me, en passant, but a vacant stare, struck a pang to my heart. My despair would have been uncontrollable, and I should have groveled and bit the ground with fury, but an innate self-respect, and a desire to appear to every possible advantage, qualities which I presume I gained together with my once admired, but now odiously detested figure, prevented me from making such an exhibition, although I verily believe that I was haunted with demoniac incitements to perform all manner of curious antics.

As I sat in revery, some one tapped me on the shoulder. I looked up. A stout, heavily built man, with a pimpled and swollen face, attired in a rough drab over-coat, with leather gaiters and hob-nailed bootees, stood beside me.

"Hollo, gen'l'mn Bill," quoth this interesting perVy, vot brings you in these parts?"

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I knew the fellow at first glance, but, by Jupiter, I had never seen him before.

"Well, old fellow," said I, with a hilarity that disgusted me, although Heaven knows I couldn't help it, "what news from your ken?"

The crowd was now at its thickest. A chariot, with servants in splendid liveries, which I immediately recognized as my own, whirled onward. Julia was seated in it by myself, or the devil in my shape. There I was, perfectly plain to behold. The face, the form were the same, but the dress superla-sonage. tively exquisite, and beautifully adapted to the figure. The turn-out of Fitzcrocky dashed by at the same time. He glared furiously upon my happy representative. With matchless insinuation this latter ogled and flirted with Julia. She returned his smiles with eyliads of incipient affection. As they passed me by, the fellow who had thus impudently usurped my figure and property winked-yes, he absolutely WINKED at me. My veins boiled with rage. Shrieking out a fearful oath, I seized a fragment of pavingstone and hurled it frantically at him. A scream, a rush, and I turned and fled, without stopping to ascertain the amount of damage inflicted by my mis- I recollected perfectly the matter he alluded to. It sile, and ran as if the furies had been after me. But was a burglary committed upon an old miser, who I ran not alone. A dense crowd of policemen, ser- had fixed his dwelling in that delicate abode, and I vants and gentleman on horseback dashed in pursuit. | very well remembered, now that Mr. Gabriel Sooter

"I tell thee vot," said Gabriel Sooterkins, for the gentleman was familiarly known by that appellation, "a'ter this night, Billy, my bo, you had better change your tramp. The beaks 'ave nabbed Ikey about that 'ere job on Saffron Hill, and they say he's peached upon it. Confound the trade, say I, if pals can't be true to one another."

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