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century to modify French costume, by assimilating, admirable representation of which is to be seen in all classes, we must in the first place mention the the making up of James Wallack, senior, for one of influence of what is now called Anglo-mania. Even his many admirable impersonations, called David as far back as Louis XV., the young nobles had be- Duvigne, in that pretty two act drama of the “Hazard come accustomed to visit England, where they ac- of the Die.” This costume is scarcely worthy of quired new habits if not new ideas. England for a remark, except on account of the red Italian cap, a time was the sovereign of fashion, and hats were garment far more graceful than our bat, but proscribed worn à la Tami se instead of a la Seine. The nobles, on account of the horrors enacted by those who wore in imitation of the English, ruined themselves by ex- it. It, however, never was worn except in France, travagance in horses and equipages. Quarrels arose and we may well enough drop it here forever. about the good looks of jockeys, and princes of the Yet people must not think there was no richness of blood and dukes transformed themselves into coach- costume during the republic. There was as much drivers. Marie Antoinette even took pride in the extravagance as ever, only every one dressed acdexterity with which she handled the whip and reins cording to his own whim. There were fops, too, of a pony-phaeton. The revolution has naturalized in called Muscadins incroyables and mervilleux, who France many political phrases, but long before that aped the manners of the old marquis. One great French ears and the French palate had grown used trait of these was they were all near-sighted, and to punch, or ponche as they called it, and both sexes could not pronounce the letter R. They were the had become accustomed to cover up their costume prototypes of our own dandies, as may be seen by with the redingote, or English riding coat. Tea the following specimen : canes and hats were ultimately adopted, also from
The revolution in England, and the round-head ideas it evolved, had much simplified English costume, and by the Anglo-mania this simplicity was now reflected back on France, and continued to as late a day as the revolution. In 1786 the English costume was frequently seen in the streets of Paris, and contributed in a great degree to dissipate the air of pretension which yet animated French society. The English boot was adopted almost universally, and gaiters became as common as in London. The loose locks of the English sailors were also imitated, and this was a severe blow on the old cos. tume, an important portion of which was the coiffure. The three-cornered cocked was replaced by the jockey's round hat, a ridiculous and ungainly thing which no taste can make becoming, and no art make comfortable. The probability, however, is that it will become universal, and that some day all the world will wear this head-piece.
This mutual imitation continued until the adoption of Napoleon's Continental system, which, as is well known, separated England from all intercourse with Europe. When peace had put an end to the long wars this system had occasioned, and Englishmen again came on the Continent, their appearance struck each other as supremely ludicrous, as the apparition of one of our own grandfathers in the gigantic waistcoat and the bag wig they wore would seem to us in a modern drawing-room.
Before, however, an universal costume had been adopted the revolution came. Fortunes were swept away, palaces lost, and the people who inhabited them dispersed. We here lose sight of powdered hair forever, for both sexes cut their hair short, and shoes with strings were universally adopted. The reign of terror came, sans-culotti sm was the rage. The red cap of liberty, the houppelande of red worsied, or ihe carmagnole usurped the place of the This costume was imitated over all the world, and, plumed hat and the graceful roquelaure. Open shirt collars and a knotted stick, like the Irish shilelah, does not differ greatly from the dress of our own day,
except in the hat, breeches and ribbons at the knee, were indispensible accompaniments to this dress, an
[To be continued.
THE ADVENTURES OF A MAN
" WHO COULD NEVER DRESS WELL."
BY M. TOPHAM EVANS.
"Hang it!" I exclaimed, as I thrust the poker , volume. It was Peter Schlemihl. I lighted a cigar, violently into the grate, and slammed myself into an and mixing some strong brandy-and-water, I applied arm-chair before the fire, “I am the most unfortunate myself to the business which the reader has been rascal in the world!"
previously informed I had in contemplation. I had just returned from the Hon. Mrs. Scatter's But all would not do. I could not succeed in my squeeze. I can't imagine why it should be the case, intention. I smoked one Dos Amigos after another, but it seems to be my unlucky destiny either to be and quaffed glass after glass of Seignelle. The more thrust or to thrust myself eternally into the most in- I drank, in the more odious light did I appear to myappropriate places possible. What the deuce should self. I ruminated upon Julia's flirtation wilh Fitzhave taken me there? I know that I have no busi- crocky. I attempted 10 analyze the causes of my ness at such assemblies-yet, oh, Julia!"
abominable want of taste in the components of She waltzed with that fool, Fitzcrocky. The fellow costume. has n't a particle of brain, but such a moustache ! “ Deuce take me!" at last I cried, exhausted, and And then the style of his dress. With what elegant half mad with vexation, “I wish 10 Heaven that I ease he sports his habiliments! Such perfect taste in could exchange this unlucky carcass with some more their arrangement, and so harmonious the tout en- fortunate individual, whose kinder stars may have semble! Then look at me. They were whispering. granted him a comelier body and a more recherché He cast a sneering glance at my exterior. I know laste in its decoration ihan my miserable self!" she laughed at me. Zounds, I could tear my hair Scarcely had I spoken these words when a gentle to tatters!
cough attracted my attention. I looked up. OppoI never could dress well. If I have a handsome and site to me there sat a gentleman of the most preposwell-made coat, the vest and pants are sure to be of sessing exterior. He had drawn up a lounge to the the most unsuitable colors. That infernal tailor, I side of the grate, and was seated, with patient politeverily believe, takes every advantage to make me ness, as if in expectation of drawing my attention 10 appear disadvantageously; and I could swear that he himself. He was attired in a neat and elegant suit of palms all his unsaleable remnants upon me. Let me black, which fitted him à merveille. A dark maroon see how he has figged me out for what I intended to velvet vest, buttoned lightly to his chest, and falling be the victorious campaign of this evening. Scipio, over into a rolling collar, displayed his linen of wheel up that cheval glass. Gods and fishes! A superb make and texture, fastened by a small diapurple coat with silver filagree buttons-a white satin mond pin. His cravat was lied with a prim prevest-scarlet under ditto-light drab pantaloons, and cision; his boots and gloves would have driven Staub a check cravat! Black silk stockings and pumps and Walker to despair. His hal was of the most apwith rosettes. Jupiter and Moses ! Why I look like propriate block, and a cambric handkerchief, delicate one of Bunbury's caricatures ! Tregear's shop-win- as the web of Arachne, and scented with bouquet du dow never exhibited such a monster. No wonder roi, was occasionally applied to his nose, in the most they laughed at me. Ha! ha! By Jove, I can't help graceful manner. The contour of his face was perlaughing at myself, and it's no joking matter, after I fect Grecian, and a mass of wavy chestnut-bair was had laid myself out to make a deep impression. negligently disposed over his forehead.
He wore There, Scipio, draw the curtains and go. Stay; neither whisker nor moustache. band me the brandy-bottle and some cigars before For some time I sai in silent amazement, wonderyou make your final exit. Imight as well get drunk, ing how my guest had procured his entreé, inasmuch and by that means bury my woes in a temporary ob- as I knew that all the doors were locked and bolted, livion, despite of all temperance pcieties.
and i hat my janitor had gone to bed some hour and a Give me my dressing-gown, and pitch this infernal half previous to the stranger's appearance. He sat coat out at the widow. Ha! here's another specimen in equal silence. Presently he arose, and pouring of my undeniable taste. What man, save myself, out a glass of brandy, he swallowed it in a twinkling, would ever encase himself in a brocade of a pattern bowing to me with infinite gravity. He next prolike a bed-curtain. No matter ; your Persian says it duced a long and slender meerschaum from his pocket, is all takdeer-destiny. All this, I presume, was lighted it with a pastille ambreé, and resuming his fore-ordained-it must have been predestined, this seat, his eyes traveled over my attire from head to atrocious, villainous piece of business, and I suppose foot, with an air of well-bred curiosity. My bile I can't help it. Scipio, go to bed.
began to work. Scipio retired, and I was left alone. The night “May I ask, sir,” said I, “what is the meaning of was dark and confoundedly cold. I picked up a this unusual visit?"
The stranger, carelessly desisting from his inves- I could have hugged him, for I was almost beside tigation, expelled a mouthful of smoke, and with a myself with delight. kind of concealed chuckle, which I did not half like, “ How can I thank you for your kindness," I exreplied,
claimed, for my old attire looked doubly ridiculous "Pray, sir, may I, without infringing upon pro- to my new optics. “I do assure you, sir, that I am priety, inquire of you, who is your tailor ?"
forever at your service." My hand inadvertently sought the decanter, and I “ That's it,” said the gentleman with a peculiar had a vague idea of hurling it at my visiter's head. smile, which in the plenitude of my joy I did not One moment's reflection, together with a glance at notice at the time, although I recollected it asterthe well-made and sine wy form before me, deter. ward perfecily well. “And now, as it grows late, I mined me to waive hostilities.
will bid you good evening.” “I cannot imagine, sir," I replied, with severe As he spoke, I saw my ancient figure walk quietly dignity, “ your motives in making any such inquiry." out at the door. I do n't know, but I thought I heard
“Oh, a mere trifle. I was anxious to become ac- him laugh a little after closing it. For my own part quainted with the name of your fashioner, who, to I was so elated, that I could not think of going to judge from the appearance of your habiliments, must bed, so I sat drinking and singing, building castles in possess a most exquisite taste."
the air, and ruminating upon the magnificent figure For a moment, I had suspicions that my amis in- which I should oppose against the fascinations of connu was quizzing me. I eyed him narrowly, but Fitzcrocky, in the eyes of Julia. I determined, with the expression of his face was that of respectful earn
the afternoon of that day, to commence my triumphal estness, mingled with some curiosity. Not the progress in her affections. In fact, I never noticed slightest trace of a quiz could be detected upon his how time slipped by, and when the entrance of some immovable aspect.
one at the door aroused me, and I collected my scat“If you are really anxious to know," said I, and lered senses, it was at least four hours after sunrise. I confess I felt naturally gratified, for it was the first “Gollamighty !” exclaimed the voice of Scipio. compliinent I had ever heard addressed to my taste, “What de debbil we got heah? Trange man in “I can refer you to Cabbage & Stickem, Oxford massa's bed-room, and he not up yit. What you street."
want, eh? He some tief-some robber.'' “I could almost wish to exchange my vile taste Why you old fool,” said I, “ do n't you see it's in costume for your more original and certainly more me-myself ?" refined style," said the stranger, without moving a
" Who me?-what dat, eh? Debbil tak me if I single muscle of his face.
no b'lieve dat he has murdered massa and teal all de " And I," I cried, seizing him by the hand, “ highly spoons! Help! murder !!! as I feel flattered by such a declaration, would will
“What do you mean, you old villain !" cried I. ingly make such an exchange, if it were possible to
“Do you want to bring in the whole neighborhood ?" do so."
and seizing a candlestick, I leveled it at his woolly “ We shall find it very possible,” replied the pale. stranger. “Come, let us take a glass to our belter " What do you mean, you scoundrel, by abusing acquaintance. I am charmed to have it in my
my servant ?'' roared a voice from the bed. I looked power to confer an obligation upon a gentleman like
in that direction. There was my head protruded yourself, especially when it meets so exactly with from the curtains, surmounted by a red nighi-cap, and my own inclinations."
a clenched fist was violenily shaken at me from the “Egad,” said I, as we hob-nobbed very cordially same purlieu. together, “I am agreed to make the exchange di
"Turn him out, Scipio!” I shouted. recily."
“Turn him out!" repeated my Eidolon, if I may I had no sooner said the word than I felt a most
so term him. violent blow at the back of my head. On my re
“Turn who out!" queried Scipio, in a state of procovery, for it almost stunned me, I was stupefied
found bewilderment. with astonishment, upon looking up, to behold my
Perfectly frantic with rage, I flew toward the bed, self sitting at my ease, and smoking with great eager for a pugilistic encounter, when the door was insouciance, upon the very seat which I had pre
thrown open, and my old housekeeper, with pallid viously occupied in propria persona.
visage, peeped into the apartment. I determined to "Be so good, worthy sir," said I, or the figure make an appeal to her. I saw seated in my-arm chair, “ to look in yonder
“Am I, or am I not your master, Nancy?” said I, glass, and you will discover that your wishes have in a very melancholy tone. been complied with."
You my master! Come up, mister himperence," I stepped to the cheval, and to my unspeakable replied Nancy. “My master is in yonder bed, young amazement and joy, viewed in the reflection the man. Run, Sip, and call a policeman. He'll make person of the elegant gentleman with whom I had you know your master, jail-bird.” exchanged exteriors.
“Ah!" thought I, “it's all up, I see. That fel. “I hope," said the personage who rejoiced in my low's me, and I'm somebody else, but bang me if I original ugliness and odious garments, “that this ex
know who. Well, as I don't choose to take a mornchange is entirely to your satisfaction ?"
ing airing at Hatton Garden, I might as well abdicate
at once. But," cried I," you scoundrel, you shall “ Blast
your Brumm brim traps !" quoth that genpay for this."
“D'ye thinla 've got now a diamond from “ Turn him out, Sip!" grunted my former voice a Bristol stone, or go air as you -hbecia?" from the bed. How bateful it sounded ! “ Turn him It was pinchbeck, by Jup out, and do n't let me be disturbed till twelve. My The waiter must have been leahed by the despair head aches confoundedly."
depicted upon my countenance With a grim I sneaked out of my own room like a detected smile, pickpocket, Nancy and Scipio attending me down “Come, my fine chap," said he, “if you are a bilk, stairs, and delivering a brace of running lectures it 's plain that you're a new hand at the trade, and I upon the evil courses which I was pursuing, admo- do n't care about being too hard upon you. Give nishing me likewise of the certain and ignominious me your wipe, and I'll let you ofl' for this time, but end which awaits such depraved and dissolute cha. you take care you does n't come the swell mob again racters as I was presumed to be. At the foot of the over this 'ere house, that 's all.” stairs, Scipio insisted upon searching me, an opera
My heart was too sull for speech. I gave him my tion to which, crest-fallen as I was, I did not pretend handkerchief with a profound sigh, and throwing the to make the slightest opposition. I was then dis- pinchbeck breastpin into the coal-scuttle, I vanished missed in the same manner with Master Candide from with all convenient speed. the château of Thonderdentronck, namely with Leaving the coffee-house, I espied my crony, Dick grands coups de pied dans le derriere, pretty well Buffers, across the street. To join him was but the administered by a brace of sturdy valets, whom work of a moment. Scipio had summoned to his assistance from a neigh- “Hollo, Dick !" said I, slapping him heartily upon boring area.
the shoulder. This was the irrepressible outpouring This ejection from my own mansion took place of a bosom, into which a ray of light, imparted by about half past nine o'clock. In the first impulses of hope, had penetrated, cheering the darksome abode my rage and despair, 1 resolved to apply to my with its enlivening presence. Quickly was my joy friends, in order to establish my identity by their les turned into sorrow. timonies. It was early; too early in fact to find any " What do you mean, sir?” said Dick, drawing of them up, and I was fain to stroll the streets until himself up with magnificent reserve. “Do you the lingering hands of the clock should signify the mean to insult me?" proper and canonical hour of rising. So I patrolled “Come, Dick,” said I, in a sort of whimper, Hyde Park for an hour or so, until my insides began for I was really becoming very much alarmed, to give me very unequivocal tokens of their desire" don't put a strange face on the matter. It is n't for breakfast. Rage, as well as love and all other possible that you do n't know your old friend, Flashsublunary matters, must yield to the calls of hunger.ington Highflyer ? Why we only parted at midnight, I entered a coffee-house in Upper Brook street, and and dined together no later than yesterday.” ordered my morning meal. I drank a couple of cups "Highflyer !” said Buffers. “To be sure I know of tea, ate a French roll and a modicum of raw beef him, and very well, too. We undoubtedly did dine steak, and walked to the bar to pay my bill. I put together yesterday, although I cannot account for my hand into my pocket in search of my purse. It your knowledge of the fact. But it will take even was not there. I tried another, and another, and yet more than your impudence to convince me that you another pocket. Horrid to relate, I could not meet are the man. You must be either drunk or a fool. with the smallest coin of the realm! The waiter Flashington Highflyer! ba! ha! Your very dress began to look very black, and I could overhear the convicts you of a lie.” monosyllable “bilk” ground out between his teeth Buffers might have spared this sarcasm. in a tone which indicated profound aversion and “Upon my honor, Richard Buffers,” said I, contempt. My hair fairly stood on end. Neverthe solemnly, while the tears actually stood in my eyes, less I thought it best to brazen it out.
“I am that most unfortunate man." “Do you see, my good fellow," said I, and I assure “You are? Why, the man's mad! View that you, I spoke in a very bland and courteous tone, “I looking glass in yonder shop-window, and if you have most unaccountably forgotten my purse" hav n't been looking into the glass too often this
"Gammon!" was the very significant response of morning already, you will discover that your counthe Ganymede. “How d’ye know you ever had tenance bears not the slightest resemblance to that of one?”
Mr. Highflyer, that is, if you are at all acquainted “Confound your impudence, fellow!” said I, nettled with the physiognomy of the gentleman to whose by the coolness of the query. “What d’ye mean by name you have laid claim.” insulting a gentleman?”!
I stepped to the window. One glance was sussi. “More like a swell out o' luck," growled the ser cient. Oh! how I cursed my super-lunatic folly, and vitor. “Come, young'un, this here kind of a job's how I longed for my former shape. no go. Post the cole, my boy, or it'll be the worse Egad, it's true," I soliloquized. “It's all corfor somebody."
rect, as my Yankee friends have it. That rascal has As luck would have it, I thought of my diamond got into possession of my goods and chattels, as well breastpin, and taking that article of jewelry from my as of my person, and has left me nothing in return but shirt front, I offered it to the waiter.
a most confoundedly disagreeable sense of my own
individuality. What a hi
authful piece of business to | Never did fugitive from the galleys exert his legs be sure!” I turned. Mick v ackle, whic
with a better will, or with more effect, than I did.
Timor additit alas. On I rushed, amidst the clasir.
was my next very natural mor, and dust, and clatter of the yelling multitude, sell interrogatory,
as if the avenger of blood had been behind me. I It was needles 10 disturb my remaining acquaint- had been a sportsman, and never did a Leicestershire ance for proofs of my identity, as, indeed, if any fox lead a squad of Meltonians such a circumbendibody had demanded of me my address, I should have bus as I did my pursuers. One by one they gave in been amazingly puzzled to give it. I turned about, -the noise died away gradually, and I was sase. entirely reckless of whither I went. Twelve, one When partially recovered, I found myself within o'clock went by. I met many of my acquaintance, a queer, dark-looking old court, in the neighborhood but there was no recognition. I was in despair, and of Hertford street and Brick Lane. I was surrounded could have sat down upon the curb-stone and wept. by a multitude of crazy, totiering, reeking houses, My walk procured me one thing, it is true, namely, apparently the abodes of no living beings, save Jew a very good appetite; but I could have readily dis- clothesmen, oyster venders, pawnbrokers, and gin pensed with that, inasmuch as I was painfully con- dealers. A squalid, miserable, broken-down dog. scious that, without pawning my coat, I was utterly kennel it was too! Tattered children ran about, unable to satisfy the cravings of hunger.
dabbling in the filthy gutters, indulging in the mockery The hours rolled on. The force of habit, I presume, of play. Rough looking men, wrapped in heavy led me to Hyde Park once more. All the world was pea-coats and coarse jackets, with red and bloated abroad. Beauty, rank and fashion were collected in faces, lounged about the doors of the various dealers, one splendid, aristocratic mass. Carriages and four, and baggard, wretched-looking women might have with servants in gorgeous liveries ; every variety of been descried entering the dens of the pawnbrokers, vehicle, from the dashing tandem to the humbler in hopes to raise some pittance of money for the purcarriage and pair, tilburies, buggy-wagons, and cabs chase of food or liquor, by pledging paltry articles of thronged and thundered around the ring. Horsemen dress or furniture. I sat down on the pavement side dashed along the carriage-ways, and pedestrians and stared around me. The scene was altogether crowded the footpaths. I sat down upon a bench dissimilar to any thing I had been in the habit of witand mechanically surveyed the scene. Every well-nessing, and it was an interesting though a painful known face, which was wont to greet me with novelty. Good God! the misery, and wretchedness, smiles, but which now bestowed upon me, en pass- and grinding poverty, deadening to the heart, which ant, but a vacant stare, struck a pang to my heart. exist in large cities, within ken of opulence, of My despair would have been uncontrollable, and I luxury and of splendor! O! could the voice of should have groveled and bit the ground with fury, these wretched throngs be heard, in its collected but an innate self-respect, and a desire to appear 10 wailing, what a cry of despairsul agony would go every possible advantage, qualities which I presume up to the throne of the Everlasting! Dead souls in I gained together with my once admired, but now living sepulchres, stalking their gloomy round of odiously detested figure, prevented me from making poverty, neglect and wo—uneducated, ungodly, such an exhibition, although I verily believe that I famine-stricken-what hope is there for them in this was haunted with demoniac incitements to perform world, and, word of horror, what in the next! all manner of curious antics.
As I sat in revery, some one tapped me on the The crowd was now at its thickest. A chariot, shoulder. I looked up. A stout, heavily built man, with servants in splendid liveries, which I imme- with a pimpled and swollen face, attired in a rough diately recognized as my own, whirled onward. drab over-coat, with leather gaiters and hob-nailed Julia was seated in it by myself, or the devil in my bootees, stood beside me. shape. There I was, perfectly plain to behold. The “ Hollo, gen'l'mn Bill,” quoth this interesting perface, the form were the same, but the dress superla- sonage. Vy, vot brings you in these parts ?" tively exquisite, and beautifully adapted to the figure. I knew the fellow at first glance, but, by Jupiter, I The turn-out of Fitzcrocky dashed by at the same had never seen him before. time. He glared furiously upon my happy repre- “Well, old fellow," said I, with a hilarity that sentative. With matchless insinuation this latter disgusted me, although Heaven knows I could n't ogled and flirted with Julia. She returned his smiles help it, “ what news from your ken ?" with eyliads of incipient affection. As they passed “ I tell thee vot," said Gabriel Sooterkins, for the me by, the fellow who had thus impudently usurped gentleman was familiarly known by that appellation, my figure and property winked-yes, he absolutely - a'ter this night, Billy, my bo, you had better change WINKED at me. My veins boiled with rage. Shriek- your tramp. The beaks ’ave nabbed Ikey about ing out a fearful oath, I seized a fragment of paving that 'ere job on Safiron Hill, and they say he 's stone and hurled it frantically at him. A scream, a peached upon it. Confound the trade, say I, if pals rush, and I turned and fled, without stopping to can't be true to one another." ascertain the amount of damage inflicted by my mis- I recollected perfectly the matter he alluded to. It sile, and ran as if the furies had been after me. But was a burglary committed upon an old miser, who I ran not alone. A dense crowd of policemen, ser- had fixed his dwelling in that delicate abode, and I vants and gentleman on horseback dashed in pursuit. I very well remembered, now that Mr. Gabriel Sooter