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translation) as if to imply, that ble would it appear, then, if its only though men may excel in describing, and vain support were found to be this superiority of theirs is counter- little else than a falsity ! Again, too, balanced by a greater ability, on the in the case of Madame Deshoulieres, part of women, for positive action. who is said to have no rivals in the True enough, this is not openly as- line of poetry she has chosen ; what, serted; but so much the worse, since let us ask, is that line? Is it of a that it is intimated there cannot be lofty or of an inferior order. If the a doubt.
latter, which happens to be the fact, Her ladyship triumphantly in- what does this make for the equality stances the fact, that out of five of female authorship? French women who have attempted. In a subsequent part of her Lady. to write tragedies, none of them, ship's discourse, she insists, that since like so many authors, (a feminine women are admitted to possess a senhit at the men again,) felt the pain sibility stronger than that of men, of a shameful defeat. Had she stop- they must therefore be owned to ped here, it might have been replied, have that energy, without which, she that there is nothing wonderful in a asks, what is sensibility ? Surely she woman's losing all sense of shame, can have reasoned but little upon the when once she has summoned bold. matter, if she is not aware that senness enough to tell the boxes, pit, sibility can exist without energy. and gallery, and by the pure mouths But she will grow wiser as the rage of drunkards, and women of ill of technical knowledge increases fame, for of such is the bulk of the among the ladies. When her studies corps dramatique, how she expresses are brought to the modern theories her love and her hatred, her sorrow, of physiology, she will hear that her fear, and her joy. But no op- there are some nerves which only portunity is left for such a retort, feel, and others which only move. the triumphant paragraph ending This is a parallel case to that of menthus : “ But all their tragedies were tal sensibility. There are some minds very successful at their first appear incapable of any thing beyond pasance.” Labor omnia vincit improbus. sive impressions; there are others The motive which can drive exer- in which excitement leads to active tion so completely out of its proper energy. In the name of all that is sphere must be strong indeed, loving and lovely, let the fair still stronger than anything natural; and wield the weapons of their weakness, therefore it is no wonder that the and still let them conquer and bliss. labor improbus is crowned with suc- A woman's place is in the bosom of cess. It is almost trifling to go regu- her family; her thoughts ought sellarly through the course of Madame dom to emerge from it. True it is de Genlis' arguinents on a question indeed, that “ the taste of writing like this. But not to be wanting in and the desire of celebrity make her Fespect for her amiable character careless and disdainful of the symand great ability, a few more of pathy of domestic duties ;” and great them shall be examined. She writes indeed is Madaine de Genlis' error thus:-If too few women (for want in declaring that “ these duties, in a of study and boldness) have written well-ordered household, can never tragedies and poems, to be put on an occupy more than an hour each day." Equality with men in this respect, She must have been asleep, to have they have often surpassed them in ever dreaint of such an absurdity. works of another kind. This may Can old age be cheered, can infancy be the case ; but is that other kind be instructed, can sickness and sora kind of equal dignity? No: then row be tended and consoled, at the how idle is the subterfuge! Besides, expense of sixty minutes per diem? it is by no means clear that nothing And yet these are the duties of a bas ever been produced by men, to woman; and not merely the “setequal the letters of Sevigné, and tling her accounts in the morning, other ladies, or the novels of De and giving her orders to her stewStael. Even admitting that, the ards.” Perhaps authorship is better argument, as we have seen, must for a lady than dissipation, if they fall to the ground; how contemptie are not pretty much the same thing; but certainly it is not so good as do- woman ought to be ever sympathismestic virtue. Man must abstracting, and in active kindness, with its himself in many ways, and for many nearest and dearest objects of affecimportant purposes ; but the heart of tion.
MEG DODS' COOKERY." “ Madam,” said Johnson to Miss sion, in the course of which, besides Seward the Poetess, at a dinner at the exact receipts, the whole arcana Dilly's the bookseller, “I could of the kitchen are laid open, not write a better book of cookery than more for our amusement than ine has ever been written. It should struction. The first part of this be a book upon philosophical prin comprehensive volume is occupied ciples. You shall see what a book with an account of the organization of Cookery I shall make. Won of the club and its objects, some men can spin very well, but they thing in the style of the Scotch nocannot make a good book of cook vels; then follow the culinary lectures
of the Nabob, which we would wish Here, however, we find realised, to see more extended ; and last comes by our old favourite, Mrs Margaret the great body of receipts, illustrated Dods, the Doctor's own happy idea throughout by curious notes and obof a “Synod of Cooks," combining servations, which, besides enlivening their talents for the purpose of pro- the text, contain a great deal of useducing, on his own principles, a book ful information, such as is likely to of receipts in Modern Cookery. If be picked up by a person of various it were necessary that what is intende reading. A novel feature of this ed to be useful should be uniformly Manual is National Dishes, in which dull, we might question the merits those of Scotland are certainly not of this New System of Cookery, for, forgotten. The author is also very though treating of a grave and pon- original on Curries; and the chapters derous subject, it is a very lively on Soups and Sauces are peculiarly production. It is, in short, a system rich and piquant. Though the of Domestic Management displayed work betrays à spirit of innovation on the favourite frame-work of a in certain departments of the science, Novel. The idea is ingenious, and into which a regular professor would the execution amusing. At the ce never have adventured, and a manly lebrated Inn of St. Ronan's, a variety preference for simple and rational of well-known characters congregate, Cookery, in opposition to fantastic and institute a course of culinary and elaborate compounds, there is a experiments, the result of which is preponderance of ornamental dishes, detailed in receipts arranged into and the mere elegancies of the table, chapters in a very luminous way, which would have found no place in and given in language more exact Dr Johnson's beau ideal of a philothan has usually been devoted to the sophical Cookery-book. There are, processes of the kitchen. Among for instance, a variety of cakes which the dramatis personæ of the Cliekum, might puzzle the Vicar of Wakebesides Meg' herself, we have the field's wife, and, along with some celebrated gourmand, Dr Redgill, sensible observations on fermentaNabob Touch wood, Captain Jeyki tion, and the ordering and managing of the Guards, and other subordinate of liquors, which are much above characters. The opposition of na- the usual mark of receipl-books, a tional and individual tastes natu- great deal more about Cordials and rally produces a good deal of discus. Home-made Wines than those
• The Cook and Housewife's Manual ; containing the most approved Modera Receipts for making Soups, Gravies, Sauces, Ragouts, and Made Dishes; and for Pies, Puddings, Pastry, Pickles, and Preserves ; also for Baking, Brewing, making Home-made Wines, Cordials, &c.; the whole illustrated by numerous Notes and Practical Observations on all the various Branches of Domestic Economy. By Mrs Margaret Dods, of the Cliekum Inn, St. Ronan's. 12mo., pp. 82. aad 366. Edinburgh. Oliver & Boyd. 1826.
wishy-washy preparations deserve. luxury, is perhaps best discovered in the We submit, however, that these are adaptation of the sauces to the meats merely masculine fallible objections : served, and in their proper preparation to the ladies, the ornamental, cosme and attractive appearance. Plain sauces tic, and cordial department, may
ought to have, as their name imports, a prove the most highly-edifying por
decided character; so ought the sweet tion of this amusing volume.
and the savoury. We think we may give some idea In another style, we select from of the serious spirit in which this this Olie the following observations work is composed by the author's on making butter and cheese, as we devils, and definition of what a good conceive them worthy of general atsauce ought to be, and what it is so tention: seldom found; for his avowed simplicity of taste is quite reconcilable
To cure Butter in the best Manner.with the most refined gourmand pro
Having beat the butter entirely free of pensities, which, according to him,
butter-milk, work it quickly up, allowing are radically opposed to all incohe
a scanty half-ounce of pounded salt lo rent mixtures.
the pound. Let the butter lie for twen
ty-four hours, or more, and then, for “ It is the duty of a good sauce,” says every pound, allow an ounce of the folthe most recondite of modern gastrolo lowing mixture :--Take four ounces of gers, the editor of the Almanach des salt, two of loaf-sugar, and a half-ounce Gourmands,“ to insinuate itself all round of salt petre. Beat them all well toge. the maxillary glands, and call into acti. ther, and having worked up the butter vity each ramification of the palatic or very well, pack it for use in jars or kits. gans. If it be not relishing, it is incapable Obs.- We confidently recommend this of producing this effect ; and if too pia method of twice salting butter, which quante, it will deaden instead of exciting only requires to be known to come into those titillations of tongue and vibrations general use. It effectually preserves the of palate, which can only be produced butter, without so much salt being em. by the most accomplished philosophers ployed as to give it a rank and disagreeof the mouth on the well-trained palate able taste. Summer-butter requires a of the refined gourmet.” This, we think, little more salt than what is cured in au. is a tolerably correct definition of what a tumn; but the above proportions are well-compounded sauce ought to be used in some of the best-managed dairies
The French, among our other insular in Scotland. Instead of strewing a layer distinctions, speak of us as a nation of salt on the top, which makes a part of * with twenty religions and only one the butter useless for the table, place a sauce,”-parsley and butter, by the way, layer of the above mixture in thin folds is this national relish,_and unquestiona of muslin, stitch it loosely, and lay this bly English cookery, like English manners, nearly over the jar, which will effectually has ever been much simpler than that of exclude the air. The turnip-flavour is a their neighbours. Modern cookery too, general coinplaint against butter made in like modern dress, is stripped of many winter and spring. Many experiments of its original tag-rag fripperies. We have been made, but we fear it is not have laid aside lace and embroidery save possible wholly to remove this offensive upon occasions of high ceremonial, and, taste. It may, however, be much ameat the same time, all omne-gatherum liorated by mixing nitre, dissolved in compound sauces and ragouts with a water, with the milk, in the proportions smack of every thing. Yet the human of an ounce of nitre to ten gallons of form and the human palate have gained milk. To give the cattle a little straw by this revolution. The harmonies of previous to their feed of turnip is a me. flavour, the affinities and coherence of thod employed in some places for pretastes, and the art of blending and of op. venting the turnip-flavour. posing relishes, were never so well under. Of making Cheese.—Many parts of stood as now; and the modern kitchen our island, from the delicate quality of still affords, in sufficient variety, the the natural pastures, ought to furnish the sharp, the pungent, the sweet, the acid, very best cheese. We can indeed perthe spicy, the aromatic, and the nutty ceive no good reason why the cheese of flavours, of which to compound mild, sa. Scotland and Wales should not equal that voury, or piquant sauces, though a host of Switzerland and Lombardy. Considerof ingredients are laid aside.
able improvements have indeed been The elegance of a table, as opposed to made in this tardy branch of our rural mere lumbering sumptuousness or vulgar economy; but, notwithstanding the zeal
with which the Highland Society has wives, who make this branch of economy lately taken up this subject, the range of their particular study, will find many obo improvement is still limited. Though one servations worthy of their attention in occasionally sees very excellent cheese in Arthur Young's Tour in France and private families, little that is good comes Italy, and in the Papers of the Bath So. to market, except the Ayrshire cheese, ciety, and the Highland Society of Scote and it is not, after all, a very delicate land. cheese for the table. The low price that
Those delicious and romantic cheese gives in those remote parts of the
compositions, Hot-spiced Wines, we country where the milk most resembles that from which the Swiss and Parmesan
find thus learnedly celebrated in one cheese is made, makes the farmer's wife of the notes :still consider all the sweet milk that goes Hot Spiced WineS. variety of to her cheese as so much butter lost. But these delicious potations were in use so skim-milk cheese never can be fine. At late as the beginning of the sixteenth least one-half of the milk used should be century. The old metrical romances are fresh from the cow. Another capital de full of allusions to these favourite com. fect is making the milk too hot, and then pounds, and particularly to the hyppocras, employing too much rennet, which makes suck, and clary. The first of these the curd tough and hard, however richwhich took its name from the bag through its basis may be. The more gently the which it was strained being called " Hipe curd is separated from the whey, the pocrates' sleeve," was made of either milder will the cheese be. Made in a white or red wine with aromatics, such cylindrical form, it will eat more mellow as ginger, cinnamon, and aromatic seeds than if moulded in a broad flat shape. with sugar. Clary was made from claret, Particular attention must be given to the with honey and aromatics, and sack cheese in the winding. The wrapping from the wine of that name. These cloths must be changed very frequently, medicated liquors were used as a comthat the cheese inay dry equally. The posing draught or " night-cap," and also salting is also of importance; and, indrunk at the conclusion of a banquet. preference to either salting the curd or « Of these spiced wines," says Le Grand, the new cheeses, we would recommend in his vie privée des François, " our their being steeped in pickle. A sort of poets of the thirteenth century never cheese for the table, of very high goút, speak without rapture, and as an exqui. an almost Tartarian preparation, is made site luxury. They consider it the masin the north by allowing the milk to be. terpiece of art to combine in one liquor come rancid, and to coagulate of itself, the strength and flavour of wine, with which gives a flavour even more pungent the sweetness of the honey, and the pere than that of goat's-milk cheese. Cheese fume of the most costly aromatics. A should be kept in a cool and rather damp banquet at which no piment was served place, wrapped in a damp cloth, and would have been thought wanting in the placed in a covered jar. It should al. most essential article." The only kind ways be presented at table wrapped in a of these delicious beverages still in use, small damask napkin, from economy as besides our common mulled wine, is well as neatness. The surface of cheese, Bishop, a bewitching mixture inade of particularly a cut cheese, when to be Burgundy and spices, with sugar, kept, should be rubbed with butter or When the compound is made of Bourlard. Dried pieces, when they cannot deaux wine, it is still called simply be presented at table, may either be gra. Bishop ; but, according to a German led down, to eat as a homely kind of amateur, it receives the name of Cardinal Parmesan, or used in macaroni. The when old Rhine wine is used ; and even offensive mould which gathers on cheese rises to the dignity of Pope when imperial may easily be distinguished from “ the Tokay is employed. blue," -the genuine ærugo, which stamps To the anecdotes, squabbles, and its value,-and must be carefully wiped off.
jokes of the Cooking Synod of St. The production of mites may be checked by pouring spirits on the affected
Ronan's, we have not space to advert; parts. The addition of butter to the
and as we have, from inspection, curd, or of lard rubbed into the new
found good reason to believe that cheeses, is employed to enrich the quality
the practical utility of the work has and mellow the cheese, Chopped sage, not suffered in any respect from the caraway-seeds, &c. are employed to ila. attempt to make the subject of Dum vour cheese, and various substances are mestic Economy more attractive to used to heighten the colour. Of these the young housekeeper, and the saffron is the most inoffensive House “lover of light reading, we may State, that so far from impairing the such productions are intended, every sober effect of this Manual, the re- circulating library in the kingdom ceipts in Cookery come with peculiar will order a few copies of Mrs Dods gusto and authority, enlivened by Cook and Housewife's Manual, and the remarks of the different members then we shall be sure that these wellof the Cliekum Club on this most frequented repositories will contain interesting subject. We trust that, something which may benefit as well besides the class of persons for whom as entertain their fair readers.
LION HUNTING'. The author of this funny-titled of travellers who pretend to public book is no common observer. He notice. set out on a hunting expedition from The peculiar situation of the Continent this our northern metropolis in the
at the present moment, (says he,) the beginning of last summer, and hav
state of its public opinion, the disposition ing scoured over London and part of
of its rulers, and the condition of its peo. Flanders, Germany, and Switzer
ple, are all interesting to a British reader. land, returned home in autuinn with What, on these topics, attracted the a quantity of valuable game, which writer's notice, has been put down. The bears testimony, not only to his in. subjects are allowed to be interesting in dustry in the chace, but to his dis themselves ; that alone furnishes his jus. crimination in appropriating only
tification. If his statements be inaccurate, such specimens of his success as he
and his remarks superficial, he will be could afterwards look upon with sa justly censured. If he occasionally intisfaction bimself, or as might strong
form, or sometimes amuse, he will be at ly interest his friends and others who
least excused. might participate in the produce of Such an apology was hardly rehis toils. We are told in the Preface quired for publishing the results of not to expect elaborate discussions the observations made by a traveller on politics, statistics, natural history, so well qualified to judge of the and political economy; indeed in so topics which he handles, as well as small a book a single topic in any of to express his opinions in a style at these great subjects, if fully treated, once elegant and tranchant. Une would have exausted the whole vo bounded good humour, playfulness lume long before its close. A tiny duo. of imagination, and acuteness of redecimo of 270 pages would be looked mark, seem to characterize the work on with contempt by those book-ma- throughout. And although our aukers and publishers who haunt Albe- thor has not been very far from marle-Street, who send forth to the home, he has contrived to make us world at short intervals thick quartos acquainted with a variety of particuat four pounds fourteen shillings and lars in the national economy of those sixpence per volume ; and yet we countries which he visited, of which mightily mistake if there is not more we were nearly as ignorant as we of lively dissertation, and of new were of the internal policy of the and useful information, in this little woods of Guiana, previous to the tome, than we have been in the habit publication of Mr Waterton's Wanof collecting from half-a-dozen of the derings, or of the situation, history, average species of voyages and travels and politics, of the Felatah and which overwhelm the lying cata- Soudan Empires, before the visit of logues of “ new and important works Denham and Clapperton to those farjust published" in imperial quarto off and hitherto almost impenetrable and royal octavo. The author of regions. However, as our traveller the present volume thinks it neces- belongs to our own hyperborean resary to make a sort of apology at the gion, he found it necessary to go to outset for intruding among the host the southern metropolis of the em
• Lion Hunting; or a Summer's Ramble through parts of Flanders, Germany, and Switzerland, in 1925. Adam Black, Edinburgh.. Longman & Co. London,