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live? I know it is in Wales, but is of water, larger than all the ponds of it in such a situation as a poetess Cumberland and Westmoreland put would choose, and as such a poetess together. Nor let me forget the has a right to claim? I never see a "crystal Leven," which, flowing from rich sequestered scene, smiling in the south-west end of Loch Lomond, sunshine and autumnal luxuriance, falls into the Clyde, after a short but without thinking of her. It is over beautiful course of a little more than such scenes that her inind knows six miles. It is a stream unequalled how to throw a hallowed beauty and for the pure transparency of its waves, a cloudless light, that reminds you of and the romantic loveliness of its the clear delicious tints of a Poussin banks. It is worthy of the immoror a Claude.
tality which Smollet has given it. But we have already left Dunglass Hitherto we hare been sailing far behind. We are now passing by within a narrow channel, and the Erskine House, or rather Erskine banks have been marked with the Parks—the seat of Lord Blantyre; characteristics of inland and fresh and a noble seat it is, as far, at least, water rivers. But we are now enas the grounds are concerned. The tering upon a broader expanse. The house is old-fashioned, and destitute banks are changed into shores, and of architectural ornaments. But I their minuter charms are scen indisdo not like it the worse. It has a tinctly in the distance. As if to cornsimple and venerable air. His Lorde pensate, however, for this loss, the ship, however, is about to pull it features of the scenery become at down, for he is building a new and once bolder and more decided. We more splendid edifice. A Scottish can hardly talk any longer of their nobleman could not possess a nobler beauty, we must speak now of their situation for a magnificent mansion. grandeur and sublimity. How noble
Turn again to the right. You the prospect which opens upon you ! have heard of Dumbarton rock and The river itself is glittering in the castle ; they are there before you. sunshine like a plain of liquid silver. Whence came this immense mass, On either side appear towns, vilyou inquire, isolated as it is, and lages, and hamlets; and behind those, unconnected with any neighbouring on the right, are seen the wild and mountain? The question is more irregular mountains of Argyleshire, easily asked than answered. An ef- bare and barren, but, in the clear atfect is often apparent, though the mosphere of summer, rising with an cause be concealed. Neither Hutton imposing solemnity and majestic nor Werner can explain the mystery. stillness into the calm blue air. They know no more of the matter Yonder is Roseneath, a beautiful than the humblest fisherman. The wooded peninsula, where the Duke rock is there, and there it hath stood of Argyle has left, in an unfinished for ages. Look beyond it, over the condition, the finest model of a notown of Dumbarton, and across the bleman's country residence which rich country that intervenes, and Scotland at this instant possesses. your eye will rest upon a still nobler By the way, talking of Roseneath, I object, a still more magnificent pro- cannot help adverting to the very duction of Nature, Benlomond, imperfect knowledge of its localities “giant of the Northern land,” looks shown by the author of “Waverley," ing, if not over “ half the world,”at in the last volume of the “ Heart of least over more than half of Scotland. Mid-Lothian.” He talks of it again How sublimely does it rise into the and again as an island, describes "second heavens!” hiding its haugh- ' views to be had from it which even ty head, not, in the figurative signi- an Argus could never have discoverfication of poetry, but literally and ed.-and, above all, displays a total truly, among the clouds of the air, ignorance of the breadth and general as often, at all events, as the air con- appearance of the lochs by which it tains clouds, which, in this region, is cut off from the main land on the is at least during ten months of the east and west. The reader feels disyear. Far below, but invisible from appointed when he makes this disour present situation, lies the prince covery; his confidence in his author's of Caledonian lakes, a glorious sheet accuracy is shaken; and he consequently peruses with less pleasure almost total absence of any thing like any descriptions of scenery with classical associations. On the conwhich he may subsequently meet. trary, the inhabitants of the banks of
We have not yet come in sight of the Clyde are, and, as far as I can the ocean, for even after it has in- learn, have always been, the most creased to its greatest breadth, the vulgarly mercantile, and consequentClyde still retains its love of abrupt ly the most doggedly unpoetical, on turnings and windings; so that, to this side of the Tweed. I have somethe eye of a stranger, it frequently where or other read the following appears land-locked ; and it is not till epigram on good music, but bad he has followed its meanderings more dancers :than once that he is able to distinguish its course from a distance. But
" How ill the music with the dancers we have passed Port-Glasgow, with its
suits ! hanging steeple,-and Greenock, with
So Orpheus fiddled, and so danced the
brutes." its stately Custom-House, and Gourock, that most celebrated of water. The same “ satirical rogue" might ing-places, -and Dunoon, with its have made a somewhat similar relittle Gothic church and fine roman- mark upon the difference wbich extic site,-and we are bearing rapidly ists here between the scenes of exterdown on the Cloch Light-house. nal Nature, and the human beings Now at length the far-off Atlantic upon whom she has so lavishly beappears in view. Where have you stowed her bounties. There is a seen a noble river mingling more common, though rather vulgar rebeautifully with the sea ? The frith mark, that “God made meat, but is studded with islands, and all of the Devil made cooks." In like them remarkable for some character. manner, there can be little doubt istic attraction. In the foreground but that those eternal waters and are the two Cumbrays placed, as if mountains are the works of Omnipoto shelter the calm bay of Largs, and tent goodness; yet, far be it from offering no little temptation to the me to insinuate that the bestial caantiquary in the shape of an ancient pacities, intent only upon a little palcathedral, now in ruins-dedicated
try gain or sensual indulgence, and to Saint Columba. Further off is incapable of inhaling one draught of Bute, the most level island, perhaps, inspiration or lofty enthusiasm from in the Scottish seas, but rich and fer- scenes so varied and so wild, are of tile, and proud of its romantic kyles, an origin in any degree less honour. and little sunny creeks. On the able than that which belongs to the south-west lies Inchmarnock, as fair rest of mankind. an inch as eye can rest on, with its Yet, who must not regret the strata of coral and shells and its old withering and debasing influence of chapel, long since deserted by its pa- avaricious commerce, when he retron saint. At a still greater dis- flects on what was done in Greece tance rise the mountains of Arran,- and Italy, where every river, and stern, rugged, and vast. It is there fountain, and valley, and green hill, that tradition preserves the memory was rendered immortal? Alas! where of Fingal, and there “ The Lay of shall we find a Parnassus in Scotthe Last Minstrel” places before us land ? Where shall we meet with a “ the Bruce of Bannockburn." Hippocrene, though we travel for
Such are the scenes which the the purpose from Jedburgh to DunClyde presents; and having spoken net-Head? The rast hordes who, thus liberally and impartially of their issuing in swarms from the cottoncharms, we may be allowed, perhaps, mills and weavers’ shops in Glasgow without incurring the charge of in- or Paisley, annually overrun the justice, to say a few words upon a shores and islands of the Clyde, are somewhat different view of the sub- but sorry substitutes for a Corinthian, ject. The great want which a stran. Theban, or Athenian population. It ger must always feel (at least if he will be long before we find among has any pretensions to the name of them either an Epaminondas, a Pinscholar) in visiting this favourite dis- dar, or a Demosthenes,-a Homer, a trict of Scotland, must ever be the Xenophon, or a Euripides. The
heroes of the "Salt-Market," "Tron- of our own silent thoughts. We have gate,” and “ Guse-Dubs,” were un- some notion that we shall be allowed fortunately never intended either for to listen in quiet to the song of the historians, poets, or orators. They bird, and the gurgling of the stream. float down the river wholesale, by We fondly imagine that we are to thousands and tens of thousands ; get quit of the bustle and noise of a they laugh, they talk, and look about town. Tradesmen, we are inclined them; they eat, drink, and sleep; to say to ourselves, of whatsoever de and having, to use their own pecu- scription they be, are all very proper liarly elegant phrase, “ washed their and very necessary in their way, but feet in the salt water” for a couple of there is no occasion that they should months or so, they float up again, cross our path at every turn. If they and return once more to their wella must indeed leave the city, and conloved cotton-mills, or loom-encum- vert the once simple and unsophisbered shops.
ticated villages of these Western You may perhaps find a few sen- shores,-Ellensburgh, Dunoon, Roth. timental Cockneys, or maudlin in- say, Largs, and Gourock, into the diters of weak rhyme, who would very Paestums, Brundusiums, and have you believe that there is some- Baiaes of Scotland, do not baulk thing beautiful in a sight like this. their inclination, but nevertheless alThey preach to you, in a sickening low us to hint to them, that they are cant, of the pleasure communicated out of their place. to a benevolent mind by witnessing
Let me not, however, be mistaken. the happiness of others; and, indule Think not, I beseech you, that I am ging in a few “ wise saws and moindifferent to the happiness of the dern instances,” they will tell you lower classes. “ Although I say it that “ the common earth, the air, who should not say it," few are more the skies,” are as much the birth of a philanthropist in that respect right of the poorest and most igno- than I am. But then I like to see rent mechanic, as of the proudest them happy in their own sphere. I philosopher or wildest admirer of have no objection to meet them, on a Nature. Who doubts it? But there fine Sunday, wandering over the Calis a time and place for all things. ton Hill or Arthur Seat. I not unThe most accommodating temper frequently take my station in the that ever existed, if combined with High-Street on a Saturday night, one single spark of poetic fire, would and enjoy most heartily the gay, hardly choose to climb Olympus in lively, busy, bustling, moving, living the company of a stocking-manufac-scene, which thenpresents itself. The tarer, and would not think the more gas-lamps burn brightly, the shopof the vale of Tempe, if he found a windows pour forth floods of splenBailie Nicol Jarvie, or a Gilbert dour, the active population flows up Duffle,“ washing his feet” in the and down in streams; then the loud Peneus. So it is with the scenery of laugh, the ear, if not the “ spiritthe Clyde.
stirring” melody of the itinerant mu“ The crew of patches,—low mechani. lusty bawling of the herring-women
sicians, the greeting of friends, the cals, Who work for bread upon Athenian the wooden-legged orators with their
and potatoe-boys, the eloquence of stalls,"
“easy-priced" pamphlets, the ringwith whom we cannot fail to asso- ing of St. Giles's merry-bells, the ciate it, rob it of half its charms. simultaneous striking of twenty When we visit the country, it is not church clocks, the drums and bugles with the expectation of finding our- from the Castle, all come hurrying selves among a swarm of tradesmen, in upon the ear in a thousand notes gaping and staring in every direction, of mingled meaning. and drinking in the fresh air like so But these are sights and sounds to many fish. We look, on the contra- be enjoyed only upon a winter night. ry, for repose and solitude. In our It must surely be allowed, that, duwanderings by the shore, or on the ring the bright days of summer, and brow of the inountain, we hope to in a region which might be made the be left to the undisturbed enjoyment very home of romance and poetry, they are woefully misplaced. Yet so But there were other young men it is; and so it will be for ever. We in the world who knew how to pay may look upon the beauties of the the lovely Arabella less dubious comClyde with delight, but we cannot pliment. Mr Sainuel Dempster was help thinking with a sigh, that here neither a student nor an Irishman; too, as in modern Greece,
he held Latin and Greek in supreme “ All, save the spirit of man, is divine.”
contempt; and as for Logic and Me.
taphysics, he did not understand the In the meantime, however, seeing meaning of the terms. But Mr Sa. that these more splenetic and sombre muel Dempster kept a very respectreflections can do no good, let me able haberdasher's shop,was in a conclude my wandering lucubrations snug, money-making way, -and, on with a simple, and, I hope, edifying Sunday, looked amazingly genteel story of “ true love,” illustrative of in his blue coat, nankeen trowsers, the tumult which may exist in a high-polished boots, and new white Glasgow vestal's veins, as well as in hat. Samuel had been long a faithful those of Pope's Eloise.
admirer of Miss Sanderson, and, baJacob Sanderson was a manufac- ting one or two little quarrels on the turer of buttons. His name, I be- score of mutual jealousy, they had lieve, may still be seen in the Tron- been, upon the whole, remarkably gate. It is in large gilt letters, and constant and exemplary in their mu. has a very imposing and dignified tual love. This love was founded, as air. Why not? Has not Mr San- my readers will be happy to learn, derson a seat in the Town Council, on the surest of all bases- a simiand a country-house on the Sauhy- larity of mind, and a congeniality of haugh Road ? Neither has Mr Sau- sentiment. They were both decidderson's good fortune stopped here ; edly of opinion, that the Green of for it has pleased Heaven to bestow Glasgow was a walk fit only for the upon him a wife and an only child. vulgar, and they deeply regretted, Of his cara sposa I need say nothing. therefore, that Nelson's Monument She is the button-maker's better had been placed in so improper a sihalf, and all that such a half should tuation. They both concurred in be. Miss Arabella, or, as her friends admiring the statue of Sir John venture to call her, Miss Bella, de Moore, recently erected in George's mands a greater share of our polite Square, and believed it surpassed attention. She is decidedly the pret- only by one other in Europe - the tiest girl north of the Clyde. She equestrian statue, namely, of King wears a lilac-coloured pelisse, trim. William, opposite the Tontine. They med with Brussels lace; and her both approved of the conduct of the bonnet is of flowered white-satin,. Presbytery, in refusing to sanction ornamented with a wreath of roses. Dr Macfarlane's appointment; and She has a perpetual ticket to the Bo- they both agreed, that a drive in a tanical Garden ; and instances are on gig was pleasanter than a sail in a record of students looking at her, steam-boat. With souls thus harwhen they should have been looking moniously attuned, who can wonder at Professor Hooker's new classifica- at the loves of Samuel and Arabella? tion of mosses. On one occasion, (I With regard to the former, indeed, think on Saint Valentine's day,) a his passion was like to run away young Irishman carried his audacity with his reason altogether. The so far as to present her with a nose people even who frequented his shop gay, which it had cost him some began to suspect there was somepains to collect. Unfortunately, a- thing the matter with him, for the mong the other flowers, there was aberrations of his mind were often one which held rather a prominent too apparent. There is not a case in place, and which the lady, ignorant all the annals of history where Cupid of the name by which Linnæus had exercised a similar influence over the distinguished it, knew only by the heart of a haberdasher. In love ! appellation of “Bachelor's Buttons.” No; the plırase is cold and unmeanThe insult was too gross to pass un- ing. He was in flames,-he was in noticed. The unhappy Irishman a lime-kiln,--he was in a Newcastle was discarded for ever.
colliery,-- he was in the boiler of a
steam-engine-he was in the crater mit of much amplification. If time of a volcano, -what would you have and space were allowed me, I could me say?--he was in Tophet. have traced the workings of the
It was just about this period that Highlander's mind through a thouMr Sanderson's intention of going to sand varied emotions; but under the the sea-buthing for two or three of circumstances in which I at present the summer months was made pub- write, I can only say, that he saw his lic. Rothsay and Largs he pro- cousin, Mrs Sanderson, and fell in nounced too far off ; Dunoon he was love (for the first time in his life) afraid he would find dall, and the with her daughter Arabella. Both contest therefore lay betwixt Ellens- father and mother watched the proburgh and Gourock. Miss Arabella gress of his passion with delight. was decidedly in favour of Ellens- They had, it is true, long been aware burgh. Nobody, who had the least of Mr Samuel Dempster's attentions pretensions to gentility, ever thought in a certain quarter;
but, then, what of going to Gourock ; how then could was Mr Samuel Dempster when the daughter of a button-maker-of weighed in the balance with a Highone who would in all probability find land laird, at the head of whose gehimself a Bailie at the next election, nealogical tree was the name of Gala forget so entirely what was due to gacus, the General of the Caledonians her character? Such were Miss San- in the time of Agricola, and who now, derson's very excellent arguments; out of complaisance for the usages of but, alas ! " dura necessitas” reno. modern innovators, condescended to dered them abortive. Ellensburgh write himself Esquire ; making it, at was alrcady as full as it could hold, the same time, pretty well known that (and a good deal fuller,) so that he was in the annual receipt of two Gourock was the only remaining al- hundred and fifty pounds Sterling ? ternative, and in Gourock the family Notwithstanding all these temptasettled.
tions, however, Miss Arabella herThey had hardly been here a week self took rather a different view of when the ferry-boat from Kilmun the subject. It occurred to her, that landed on the pier a Highland laird. Macalpin was a man as near fifty as He had come across for the very pura forty,—that the colour of his hair was pose of seeing them, for Mrs San- not even an equivoque between red derson and he happened to be first and auburn,--and that his nose, as if and second cousins. When I say emulous of the distinction claimed that he was a Highland laird, í by his hair, had a raw and fiery look, mean that he had a house of two which told of smuggled whisky and stories, consisting, I think, of five deep carousals. Her resolution, thererooms and a kitchen, besidesgarrets,- fore, was taken, and she heroically that he rented from the Duke some determined to die a maid rather than half dozen of the Argyleshire bills,- forsake Mr Dempster. While affairs and that he was the undoubted and were at this crisis, our friend the sole proprietor of nearly four hun- haberdasher, unable to bear any dred sheep, (all black-faced,) and of longer the pangs of separation from more than five-score head of horned the best-beloved of his heart, stepped cattle. That he was a man of con- on board the Oscar steam-boat one siderable consequence and authority fine Saturday forenoon, and was at cannot, of course, for a moment be Gourock by dinner-time. I think it doubted. I may only add, that he right to mention, that he wore his was sufficiently civilized to wear white hat, and that he had emptied breeches, and that though he still the contents of a small vial of lavenkept bis tobacco in a speuchan, and der-water on his very showy silkhis snuff in a mull, he carried neither handkerchief. I have been given to a dirk nor a pouch. Erring Lowland- understand, too, that he had added ers called him Macalpin ; his own an additional seal to the blue riband Gaels knew him by some far different attached to his watch, and that he appellation.
sported a carnelian brooch in his Unluckily for the attentive reader, breast-ruffles. These are facts, howwho cannot fail to be interested in a ever, for the truth of which I cannot tale like this, my limits do not ad- pledge myself. VOL. XV.