leave the pipe in perfect condition. Another method is to place. the pipe between pieces of lead sprinkled with plaster, and use a pipe vise for a clamp. A means often employed by mechanics who handle quantities of polished pipe is to face the hollowed wood blocks with soft felt, which is sprinkled with crocus or plaster of Paris to increase the friction. The method is shown in sketch Fig. 468, D, which is self-explanatory.

An Easily Made Soft Hammer.-A soft hammer often comes in handy around an automobile wherever heavy driving is to be done on metal that must not be marred or scratched. Nearly every automobilist carries a hammer of some sort around and is therefore loath to believe that another hammer, even a soft-face one, is a necessity. Whenever metal parts are to be protected he protects the driven piece with wood, leather, or other soft substance. There is nothing handier, however, than having a hammer that is soft and various types have been made for different kinds of machine shop usage, some out of all-metal from pipe and pipe fittings and others similar to the one in Fig. 468, F. To make this one, use an ordinary gas pipe that will easily slip over the head of the hammer and cut off a suitable length so that when finished and assembled the proportions will be about as indicated. Saw out any number of V's from the pipe so that when the teeth are bent inward a spring is formed that will snugly catch the head of the hammer. After the V's are cut out of the pipe, slip the pipe over the head and arrange for pouring the lead or babbitt. The mold is easily made by submerging nearly the whole hammer in sand or by filling the space between the pipe and hammer head with putty. Part of the hammer head should be surrounded with the poured metal in order to insure a good, close fit, but the fit must not be too close. It is well before pouring, to wrap a single thickness of paper around the head, holding it in place with thread or string. Lastly, bend the teeth to produce the spring-locking effect and you have a nice serviceable hammer. As soon as the face is worn it is a simple matter to repair it by melting out the soft metal, and remolding it.

Straightening Shaft on Planer.-It is sometimes possible to straighten a long shaft or tube, such as a propeller shaft or live axle on a planer bed if no straightening machine is available. The

method is clearly shown at Fig. 468, A. The shaft is placed on the planer bed resting on wood blocks supported by that member. A screw jack is placed between the planer head and on the bent portion of the shaft and pressure is thus easily exerted to straighten the defective axle. This is so placed that the high point is directly under the jack so that the pressure exerted by that member will tend to bring the shaft or tube back in line.

Holding Small Work Without a Vise.-It is often necessary to make repairs on the road and some minor part must be securely held for filing or other fitting which is difficult to do if a vise is not available. A simple method of holding a key or pin or similar small parts is shown at Fig. 468, C. A large monkey wrench, which is included in most automobile tool kits, is used as a vise and while it is difficult to secure the proper degree of clamping pressure by the movable jaw adjusting screw alone, sufficient pressure to hold the key securely may be easily obtained by placing a bolt between the wrench jaws and the piece to be held in the manner indicated. Considerable pressure may be exerted by holding the bolt head from turning with one wrench and screwing the nut at the end of the bolt out against the fixed wrench jaw with another wrench. If it is desired to hold a round piece a shallow groove may be filed in the bolt head to prevent it from slipping from the work.

Holding Small Work in Vise.-When filing small screws, bolts, or pins that would be difficult to hold in a vise on account of danger of marring the surfaces the best method is to drill holes in a wooden block to receive the screw and cut a slot from the end of the block down to the hole. When the vise jaws are tightened up, they clamp the piece firmly and it may be filed with ease as indicated at Fig. 468, E.

Removing Keys.-On a number of cars of early vintage, such as the double cylinder Maxwell and on many marine engines, the flywheel is held on the crankshaft by means of jib keys. When it is desired to remove the flywheel as is necessary to withdraw the crankshaft from the engine base when rebushing the bearing, difficulty is sometimes experienced in removing the key. A very ef fective method of accomplishing this is shown at Fig. 469, A. The key extractor or puller is forged of steel as indicated having two

hooks at the ends formed on curves of different radii. The one having the more gradual curve is used first to start the key while the one having more abrupt curve is employed for withdrawing it. When the key puller is placed between the head of the key and the hub of the flywheel a cam action is obtained by which the pressure of the hammer blows on the other end of the key puller is increased

Fig. 469.-A-Removing Jib Key. B-Method of Truing Crankshaft. C-Repair of Gear Case with Babbitt Metal. D-Use of "PuttingOn' Tool. E-Illuminated Magnet.

many times and the key easily started. If the key is rusted in place or if it has not been removed for a long time it may be found desir able to heat the end of the shaft with a blow torch or to soak the rusted parts with kerosene.

Truing Crankshaft.-The method of holding a crankshaft when it is desired to true the crank pin journal shown at Fig. 469, B, is a very practical one and is followed by a number of mechanics when overhauling an engine. The journals are often not roughed up enough to warrant dressing them down in a lathe, so the crankshaft may be securely clamped in a vise between wooden blocks and the journals dressed down with strips of emery cloth or with a leather belt or strap covered with oil and abrasive material.

Repair of Broken Gear Case.-An emergency repair of the gear case that has been injured by a nut falling between one of the gears and the bottom of the case is shown at Fig. 469, C. The repairman who made this repair did not have an autogenous welding outfit so the hole was filled up with babbitt metal as shown.

A Putting-on Tool.-How often at some time or other, have mechanics wished for something in the way of a putting-on tool! As it is always easy if a piece is too large, to remove metal in order to bring it to proper size this proposition does not worry even the poorest mechanics. But what is to be done if the piece is too small? A common method and a brutal one is to take a center punch and upset the surface of the metal, in order that it shall be a tighter fit in the hole. A bushing or a rod, if not too small, is often treated in this manner, and may be forced into the hole. A more effective method of "putting on" is by means of a common coarse knurl, knurling the bushing the entire circumference in several places. This will have the effect of expanding the outside diameter almost 32 of an inch, if desired, and is much neater and infinitely superior to the use of prick punch marks, which is an unsightly and unreliable method of increasing the effective diameter. The great advantage of knurling is that the metal is equally and uniformly expanded, does not look bad if for any reason the bushing or rod is withdrawn and what is more important for anything that must be a tight fit, it will never work loose.

Illuminated Magnet.-An electric searchlight and electro-mag

net has been brought out by an English concern and should prove a useful tool in repair shop. It consists of a handle, on one end of which is the magnet, while above the latter is an electric bulb which sends light through two windows, as presented at Fig. 469, E. A flexible cord passes through the instrument and is attached to a storage battery or dry cells. The magnet is utilized to pick up nuts, bolts or pieces of metal that may drop into the crankcase or other places not easily reached by hand, and is said to be sufficiently powerful to attract a good sized wrench. The light facilitates finding the parts, may be used to ascertain the amount of gasoline in the fuel tank or lubricant in the crankcase and to inspect other places. In addition to being handy in the garage it could be included in the tool equipment of a car and used in connection with the roadside repairs.

Simple Priming Device.-Several simple priming devices may be constructed by anyone of average mechanical ability to facilitate motor starting in cold weather. One such equipment is shown at Fig. 470, B, and comprises a dash priming cup, tubing connecting it with the intake manifold, and a spraying device, which is shown separate in the drawing. It will be noted that the last named member is perforated. To utilize the primer a little gasoline is poured into the cup on the dash and the lever turned slightly to admit the fluid, also a little air. The fuel flows through the tube to the perforated member, and upon cranking the engine, the air drawn in through the carburetor and petcock breaks up the fuel, converting it into a rich mixture. It is stated that the motor will start on the second or third crank even in the coldest weather. The material required to install the primer consists of a petcock, which is secured to a plate on the dash; a connector having a tubing and a pipe thread end, 1/4-inch annealed copper tubing, and a union. To the last named is soldered a piece of brass tubing which is drilled full of No. 62 drill holes. Its length should be approximately that of the diameter of the intake pipe into which is inserted by drilling and tapping a hole. The manner of installing the parts is clearly depicted in the drawing. It is stated that the equipment described can be made at a slight cost. A simpler installation is shown at A, this consisting merely of a petcock