parts, including the front axle and the front and rear springs, are removed nothing but the bare frame, as shown at G, is left.

It is seldom necessary to strip a car down to the point shown at F or G, unless repairs are needed on the frame and the injured parts cannot be reached with the various power plant and transmission units in place. The reason for the removal of such parts as the motor, steering gear, change speed gear box and axles is that these can always be more conveniently worked on if supported on special stands adapted to receive them. Many of these have been described in an earlier chapter when speaking of shop furniture. Obviously the process of reassembling would be just the reverse of that outlined for taking the chassis apart. Starting with the bare frame shown at G, one would add the springs and front axle as at F, then install the power plant and dashboard assembly as at E, couple up the change speed gearing as at D, then put in the rear axle and the various connections as at C. The steering gear, radiator and various control rods and levers would then be put in place, as well as the muffler assembly, which would bring the chassis to the almost completed state outlined at B. The addi tion of the running boards and their supporting irons, the wheels, brakes and brake rod linkage, would then complete the chassis as shown at Fig. 345, A.

The various retention means, such as bolts and lock washers, as well as other forms of lock members, are described in the chapter dealing with special repair processes. The most common form of nut retention is by employing a split pin in connection with a castellated nut. A number of tools have been described for cotter pin removal, but many owners of cars do not possess anything but the tools furnished with the repair kit. Two methods of doing this work easily which do not require the use of a special tool are shown at Fig. 346. One of the best ways for getting an ordinary split pin out of the hole is shown at the top of the illustration. The pin is grasped between the ordinary combination plier jaws and a hammer is used against the plier to draw out the pin. The other method, which is shown below, consists of inserting a steel drift pin or nail set through the hole in the cotter pin head and then striking the drift with a hammer. It will be found that the

parts, including the front axle and the front and rear springs, are removed nothing but the bare frame, as shown at G, is left.

It is seldom necessary to strip a car down to the point shown at F or G, unless repairs are needed on the frame and the injured parts cannot be reached with the various power plant and trans mission units in place. The reason for the removal of such part as the motor, steering gear, change speed gear box and axles i that these can always be more conveniently worked on if supporte on special stands adapted to receive them. Many of these hav been described in an earlier chapter when speaking of shop furni ture. Obviously the process of reassembling would be just the rej verse of that outlined for taking the chassis apart. Starting with the bare frame shown at G, one would add the springs and from axle as at F, then install the power plant and dashboard assembly as at E, couple up the change speed gearing as at D, then put i the rear axle and the various connections as at C. The steerin gear, radiator and various control rods and levers would then put in place, as well as the muffler assembly, which would brin the chassis to the almost completed state outlined at B. The add tion of the running boards and their supporting irons, the wheel brakes and brake rod linkage, would then complete the chassis shown at Fig. 345, A.

The various retention means, such as bolts and lock washers, a well as other forms of lock members, are described in the chapter dealing with special repair processes. The most common form of nut retention is by employing a split pin in connection with castellated nut. A number of tools have been described for cotter pin removal, but many owners of cars do not possess anything but the tools furnished with the repair kit. Two methods of doing this work easily which do not require the use of a special tool are shown at Fig. 346. One of the best ways for getting an ordinary split pin out of the hole is shown at the top of the illustration. The pin is grasped between the ordinary combination plier jaws and a hammer is used against the plier to draw out the pin. The other method, which is shown below, consists of inserting a steel drift pin or nail set through the hole in the cotter pin head and then striking the drift with a hammer. It will be found that the

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