the wood separators, these are always placed against the grooved side, one to each wood separator, and the two inserted between the plates together. When the separators are all in place the edges should be tapped with a wood block until they project equally on each side of the plates.

The sealing nuts are tightened with a special wrench, which is shown in Fig. 28. To lock the sealing nuts in place a prickpunch is used to burr the thread in spots above each nut, as shown at D, Fig. 27. This will slightly upset the alloy thread on the post and prevent the nut from coming loose. This is necessary only on those types of cells having burned connections, as in Wolted connections the thread of the nut post does not extend above the sealing nut. The top, or clamping nut, acts as a lock to prevent the sealing nut from loosening.

Before sealing a cell, always wipe the surfaces against which the sealing compound is to be placed with ammonia and allow it to dry thoroughly. Otherwise the compound will not stick. In the double-flange type a string of sealing compound about 3/16ths inch in diameter is made by rolling some special compound between two boards. This is packed in the space between the flanges and is heated before the cell cover is pushed in place.

While it is not difficult to release those types of cells having bolted-on connecting strips, the burned-on type connectors cannot be removed as easily. To remove these solid lead links it is necessary to bore the connectors centrally over each post with a 5-inch wood bit. Another method is to play a burning flame on the joint to soften the lead and then to pull off the connector with a pair of pliers. The method of taking down the bolted connection is clearly outlined at Fig. 28. The first step is to remove the filling plugs to provide more room for working on the battery terminals. A special socket wrench is provided for the alloycovered top nuts, this being easily turned by a special ratchet wrench. After the top nut is removed the spacing washers and connector strips may be taken off, and it is well to take off the connector strips without bending them. It is also well to save the alloy washers. These are placed one above, one between and one below the two connector straps. Two types of connector strips

are provided, a simple form consisting of a straight piece, and a later type, in which the lead-covered copper connectors are provided with cast lead ends that eliminate the spacing washers.

Do not try to unscrew the sealing nuts with a Stilson wrench. The wrench teeth will not only damage the sealing-nut corrugations, but the pressure may squeeze a nut so tightly into the threads that it can be removed only with difficulty. The special

Fig. 28.-Tools Used and Method of Disassembling Bolted Type Exide Connectors.

box wrench illustrated is necessary for removing the sealing nuts without damage. This has a series of small projections which fit into the corresponding spaces on the sealing nut and make it very easy to turn that member. Whenever a bolted connectiontype cell is assembled, the first step is to grease the studs well with vaseline. Slip one of the connector links over the posts of adjoining cells, then an alloy washer over each post, followed by a second connector and a second washer. The last washer is then

put in place and the top nut pulled up tight with a properly fitting socket wrench. If a monkey wrench or worn S-wrench is used the soft corners of the alloy-covered nut are apt to be marred if the wrench slips.

Battery Repair Tools.-The following list of tools and apparatus is given in the Gould Instruction Book, and will be found of value in repairing storage batteries of any make: One pair of rubber gloves, to protect the hands from acid; one 7-inch endcutting nippers or one pair bolt cutters, for cutting connectors, plate lugs, etc.; two pairs of combination pliers, for pulling elements from jars; one triangular lead scraper, for cleaning plate lugs, terminals, etc.; one putty knife, for removing sealing compound; one half-inch wide wood chisel, for the same purpose; one five-inch screw-driver, for removing sealing compound and covers; one single-end wrench for removing terminal nuts; several coarse files and handles, for filing plate lugs, straps, etc.; one steel wire brush for cleaning files and battery terminals; one ball peir hammer, medium size, for general work; one 10-inch ratchet bit brace, for drilling links loose from pillar posts; one 5-inch diameter bit-stock drill, for removing 5-inch connectors; one 7-inch bit-stock drill, for removing 7-inch connectors; one small drill, to start holes; one center punch, for centering terminals to drill; one adjustable hacksaw frame and three 8-inch blades to fit it; one iron ladle, for pouring sealing compound; one pair blue glasses, for use when lead burning; one soft-rubber bulb syringe, for flushing and equalizing electrolyte; one burning-rack, with extra guide plates; one hydrometer, for mixing electrolyte; one thermometer, for reading cell and electrolyte temperature, and one lead-burning outfit. A group of the tools recommended by the Electric Storage Battery Company for work on the Exide batteries is shown at Fig. 29. The special terminal and box wrenches shown will fit the Exide battery terminals only.

To Repair Gould Batteries of the Sealed Types.-Batteries to be repaired may have been in service but a short time, the necessity for repairs being broken terminals, leaky jar, plates in one cell short circuited, etc. Under these circumstances it is only

necessary to make the repairs indicated by test. If, however, the battery has been in service for six months or longer, and the cell or cells to be repaired show general deterioration, it is very probable that the other cells in the battery are in nearly as bad condition, and the elements should be removed from all of the jars in the battery. If, upon inspection, plates are still in good condition, the wood separators should be discarded and new wood separators put in the good cells as well as those requiring repairs. To Dismantle a Cell: Have battery fully charged before dismantling a cell.

Remove vent cap and washer.

To remove terminal or connecting link, center the tops of terminals and connectors over the terminal posts with a centerpunch and drill down to depth of 34 inch, using a 5-inch drill if you have 3/4-inch posts and a 7-inch drill if you have 1-inch posts. Terminals or links can then be removed by working back and forth gently with gas pliers.

To remove top cover. Soften the sealing compound by a jet of steam or a gas flame. The use of the flame requires very careful manipulation and continual attention of the operator. Care must be taken that the flame does not burn or scorch the edges of the cover. Then gently pry the cover from the jar.

With a heated putty knife or screw-driver, clean the compound from the inside edges of the rubber jar. The element can now be removed (with the lower cover) by grasping each terminal post firmly with gas pliers and pulling up slowly but strongly, holding the battery down meanwhile.

If separators are in good condition and a jar replacement only is to be made, set the element, with bottom cover, in electrolyte or water till ready to replace.

Remove the bottom cover from the element after cleaning compound away from the posts. The covers may have warped from the heat. If so they should be heated again by being placed in boiling water, straightened out and laid on a flat surface to cool.

Separate the positive and negative groups and discard the wooden separators. If rubber sheets also are used, those that are not broken should be washed and laid aside for future use. The