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the highest crag will find around its basaltic-zone (Potentilla ruspestris), a plant, we believe, not known in any locality nearer than Cologne; and around the pillar which crowns its summit Botrychium lunaria.

Near the foot of this remarkable group of lofty hills, the pretty little bridge of Llandrinio crosses the Severn; beyond it is Llandysillio, and still further on in the same direction Llanymynech. The latter name, in Welsh, signifies the village of miners; and that from very early times the hills have been ransacked for lead and other metals, appears probable, from the primitive tools and ancient relics found in old workings; the latter including coins of Antonius and other Roman Emperors. It is said that in a cave called Ogo, a bracelet of gold, some human remains, a Druid's belt, and a battle-axe have been found; and that its caverns, which extend some distance, present interesting appearances, from stalactites pendant from the roof. At Abertanad, the river Tanad falls into the Vyrnwy; and the latter, with the borrowed tribute it receives, enters the Severn, amid the rich pasture flats near Melverly. When bank full the two rivers mingle their waters without a murmur or a sigh; but, at other times, when heavy rains have fallen long the banks of the Tanad or the Vyrnwy, the latter comes down with a roar, and rudely thrusts back the "Queen of rivers" along the vale; here it collects its waters, and again returns to battle with its rival. Persons familiar with the river, between here and Shrewsbury, can tell when it rises whether the increase is from the Severn or its tributaries by the colour of the livery which it wears, the water being charged with sediment corresponding with the rocks it passes in its course.

Below, where the Severn and the Vyrnwy meet, we find much to remind us that we are still upon the Borders, and amid the great Marchers of Wales. Old fortresses and feudal strongholds are thickly sown, so much so that Fuller says: "Shropshire seems divided from Wales by a wall of continued castles." Churches are dedicated to warrior saints. War and religion then were paramount: fighting men and priests-those of stout arms and strong emotions-managed to make matters meet. Spots where men agreed to sing and pray were sacred; so that fugitives or aliens, even murderers, upon gaining the interior of the churches, obtained protection from their pursuers; as at Alberbury, where tradition alleges that a Welshman charged with murder found refuge till released by his countrymen in time of war. Men shed blood, and then founded monasteries to atone for sin. Like old Fitzwarren, who, an old chronicle states, "upon returning from relentless wars in Ireland, and thinking that he had sinned by the slaughter of much people, sought remission of his sins by founding a priory in a wood on the river Severn." Of the old castle of Fitzwarren, at Alberbury, a portion of the walls alone remain; while Wattlesbury, another Border stronghold near, has been reduced to an old square tower and some portions of its wings,

These were but a few of the fortified houses held by Lords Marchers, who, from the difficulty of reaching the Welsh in their mountain fastnesses by means of large armies, it was found good policy to incite to win and hold by their retainers, as their own, lands along the borders. The more to encourage these to conquest, they were given a voice in Parliament, with titles significant of the districts they subdued. In return for these possessions and privileges, they rendered military services to the crown-such as that of keeping their castles sufficiently fortified to withstand the Welsh, and of furnishing the King's army, in time of war, with men. There were at one time 114 of these lordships, with military governments, and customs so strange, that offenders in one would often find impunity in another, and escape the punishment due to crime. With such strongly fortified positions, and tenantries inured to war and hardship, these feudal barons of the Marches were among the most powerful of the nobility, and their names stand prominent in history.

The harsh government of these districts continued in the hands of these men long after the circumstances which were supposed to warrant it had passed away. Alberbury is the property of Sir Baldwin Leighton, whose present residence is Loton, a mansion pleasantly situated amid ancestral trees, and nearer the Severn. George IV., when Prince of Wales, professing to visit the country whence he derived his title, walked a mile from Loton Hall, into the principality; and, having plucked a branch of oak, which he placed in his hat, returned. The men of the leek, however, professed to feel flattered by this short visit, and made due demonstrations accordingly. The tree, of course, has been carefully guarded, and a brass plate affixed to record the circumstance for the benefit of posterity. This parish is noted as having been the birth-place of Old Parr, who lived to the extreme age of 152.

Lower down the river is Rowton, the Rutunium of the Romans. Grey rocky terraces appear upon the Slope, and the building itself is thrown into relief by a dark, sombre background of trees.

Leaving Rowton we cross the river, attracted by the wild-looking ruins of Shrawardine. A sandy lane, between banks of gravel, leads past woodbined and whitewashed cottages, from the ferry to the village. The church, which is an ancient structure with a wooden tower, contains some brass and marble memorials, and a curious old font. Its proximity to the castle seems to have been anything but an advantage, as it appears, from an old parish register, to have suffered severely during the different sieges of the former. The tottering remains of the old castle, which occupy a field opposite to the church, fitly represent the times when the country was wasted by Border wars. Reared to check the encroachments of the Welsh upon the fertile lands of the interior, many grants in aid of its repairs were made during successive reigns; and ten tenancies were held, in the early

part of the 13th century, on condition of service rendered in defending it. It was a Royal castle up to the year 1215; afterwards it came into the hands of the Fitz-Alans, and passed by purchase to Sir T. Bromley, in 1682.

Below Shrawardine, right and left of the river, are the villages of Ford and Montford, consisting of small clusters of houses and homesteads, whose populations have remained pretty much the same for centuries. We passed through Montford without seeing a single soul, excepting one old man, who was lame. It was during a sunny interval in the wet summer of 1860, and we imagine the entire population had gone into the fields to make hay. A farmer, whom we met afterwards, resting on his pickel, told us that the bold projecting mass of stone upon the shelve hills reminded him of a load of hay; to Sir R. Murchison and others it conveyed a very different impression, namely, that of a ruined city. Montford bridge, one of the passages of the Severn, of great importance during the international disputes and quarrels of the Borders, is famous for many a parley between the representatives of the two countries. Henry III. here sought to entrap David Prince of Wales, when he proposed that the Lords Marchers should meet him in 1241.

perty, and the latter the residence, of the Hon. H. W. Powys. Along these darkly-wooded banks the gallant Percy halted, and lay encamped the night before the battle of Shrewsbury and here, while partaking of the hospitality of the Bettons, of Upper Berwick, he left his sword-an incident which caused him some uneasiness prior to the commencement of the battle.

Opposite Berwick, formerly, was Sheltonford, which Owen Glendower, it is said, should have crossed to join his ally. In a field above the river is the oak, from the topmast branches of which Owen is reported to have watched the course the battle took, prepared to advance or retreat as the case may be. Welsh historians, however, by no means admit the truth of a tradition which involves the good faith of their countryman. Owen, at the time they say, was in a remote part of Wales, and ignorant that his presence was either needed or expected till he heard of Hotspur's overthrow.

From the field-walks near Shelton Oak the town of Shrewsbury comes pleasantly into view, the towers and spires of the churches rising from the trough of the valley, and, seen through casual openings in the trees, afford good materials for the pencil.

on three sides surrounded by the Severn; and, from the disposition of its buildings, appears to have grown rather than to have been built. It has an aspect becoming the capital of an important county, and an air of antiquity which fittingly reminds you. that it was formerly the metropolis of the west. Its native poet (Churchard) described it metrically three centuries since: and Leland (traveller and antiquary) has also sung its praises. Speed described its salubrity, Shakespeare the heroes of its battle-field: Shenstone praised its cakes, and others its brawn, its ales, and its hospitality. An early British prince and bard speaks of it under the name of Pengwern, and refers to his countrymen having sought refuge here when driven from Wroxeter by the Danes. The Saxons, who drove out the Britons, called it Scrobbesbyrigg-and that it was a place of shrubs seems clear; for, buried deep down in the market-square, the leaves swept by autumn winds are still found.

Preston-ford and Montford-bay are fishing Like many old towns of equal antiquity and stations, where an old fisherman told us he had importance, Shrewsbury, no doubt, owes its exknown fifteen salmon caught in a day. Sharp-istence to its position. It occupies an eminence, water or Shrawardine-ford and Shrawardinebay also furnish good fishing. Below Montford bridge, the Perry-an industrious little riverhaving first done duty at the many village mills along its course, comes down to join the Severn. Like the villages and the village churches along its banks, these old creaking machines upon the Perry have histories of their own. For ages their lichened wheels have gone their lazy rounds; many generations of millers have assisted their operations in turning village harvests into bread. To that of Fitz, between Perry and the Severn, the Haughmond monks not only brought their grist six centuries since, but also took toll of their neighbours' batches. For this privilege they were indebted to Robert de Girrors, who gave two mills of Fitz multure suit, toll of his own wheat, eels caught at the floodgates, common pasture for the millers' cattle, and room to winnow corn, to the said abbey. At Bicton, close by, the Abbot of Buildwas, also held land, with the privilege of his tenants cutting fuel at Bicton Heath. Below The Saxons, with a chieftain whom a Bicton and opposite to Fitz, is the Isle, 645 Welsh bard styles the hog, were in turn exacres in extent, and enclosed by the Severn, ex-pelled by the Britons, who planted here their cepting at a narrow isthmus, pierced to obtain water power for a mill. It is the property and residence of the Sandfords, to an ancestor of whom it was given by Queen Elizabeth.

Below the Isle is Leaton Knolls, wooded to the water's edge, and commanding views of the winding river, of the Briedden and other hills, and adorned by the modern mansion of John Arthur Lloyd, Esq. On the same side, lower down, is Rossal Hall; and opposite is Great Berwick, and Berwick House, the pro

"river king," and who, once more obliged to yield, retired to the other side of the Briedden hills. Scrobbesberyg now became the capital of the Mercian kings. Instead of rude hovels and wattled huts, buildings of importance sprang up. The college of St. Chad took the place of the log palace of the "tusked king;" and the Lady of the Mercians founded St. Alkmund's. With the Norman Conquest it again changed masters-at least, after the Battle of Hastings made it prudent for it to do so, The proud

title, Earl of Mercia, now became merged in that of Shrewsbury; and the kinsman of the Conqueror, upon whom it was conferred, built the stout old castle on the isthmus of the Severn. The history of the town, from this point, no longer borders on a myth; but, with the written record comes the accomplished fact, and old red stone ruins, like those leaning their broad back against "the mount," tell their own tales. | How significant the old walls stand, giving frown for frown to the distant hills of Wales! How redolent of the olden time; and what distat periods they link together! The proud old keep, that bade defiance to the foe, is now a dwelling house; and its guard-chamber, formerly resounding with the tread of armed knights, is a drawing-room. The inner gateway, through which the last Norman Earl of Shrewsbury carried the keys to Henry I., is left. The inner chapel, dedicated to the warrior saint, where fighting men watched and prayed, has disappeared; while that of St. Nicholas, outside the court, used for retainers of the castle, has been converted into stables.

to some extent, is brought before us by means of the same red-stone characters. On the opposite bank of the river is the Abbey, reared by the same founder, who in later years assumed the monastic garb, and was buried beneath its altar. Its abbot, who ranked with barons, had a seat in Parliament and carried the silver crozier. It was the depository of the body of the virgin Winifrede, whose decapitation, with other marvels attendant, caused her to rank high in the calendar of the saints, and her remains to bring much grist to the abbot's mill.

Only the church and some outbuildings now remain ; but, in its broad and massive Norman tower is one of the finest windows in the kingdom; and its interior architecture, mural monuments, and altar tombs, with their quaint inscriptions, render it well worthy of a visit. In the precincts of the Abbey is a sculptured stone pulpit, formerly used in the refectory, it is supposed, by junior monks, who read to their brethren while at meals. A short distance from the Abbey, and near the Doric coluinn commemorating the achievements of Lord Hill, is another memorial of the piety and philanthropy of past agesa fine old church, dedicated to the patron saint of cripples. Its lowest window has a representation of St. Giles, and its floor retains memorials of the masters of the hospital. A large

basin." Tradition asserts that it was filled with water, and used during the plague for people to pass their money through in their bargains with the countryfolk for provisions.

Shadows of the past fast flit before us as we contemplate the crumbling walls of the old building; still more so if we ascend the Laura Tower, rising high above the mount-itself 100 feet above the river-and look around us. Henry advances from the dark defile of Wen-hollow stone in the yard is still called the "pestlock Edge; Stephen lays siege to the castle, which fortifies itself in favour of the Empress Maude; Llewellyn wins back the heritage of his fathers, but is expelled by John, who, having reduced Oswestry to ashes, retakes the town; David, the last of the British princes, falls into the hands of Edward, and Parliament is summoned to Shrewsbury for his trial. The sentence it passes is severe, and the execution, which takes place on Pride-hill, an everlasting disgrace to the town. Members who witness it hasten to meet the King and his Chancellor at Acton Burnell, where Parliament sits in a barn. The Great Parliament (20th of Richard II.) is held here, the lords temporal and spiritual being sworn on the cross of Canterbury, brought here for the purpose.

Two years later, and the elements of rebellion culminate in the great Battle of Shrewsbury, when two thousand noblemen, knights, and gentlemen, and six thousand private soldiers fell on Hatley-field, where the victor built a church over the body of the slain. The town is taken by storm under Colonel Mytton, of the parliamentary army; and after the Commonwealth comes the Restoration, when James II., having ascended the throne, comes here in the course of a tour he makes through his dominions. The corporation goes mad, and the mayor dumb, in presence of the King! They vote £200 for his entertainment, and make him a handsome present into the bargain; in return for which he condescended to exercise the gift of healing, by "touching" with the royal finger, for the king's evil.

The early ecclesiastical history of the place,

Crossing the handsome English bridgegraced by a goddess of the river and the father of the fountain on its centre arches -to the top of Wyle Cop, we find on the right St. Julian's, St. Alkmund's, and St. Mary's churches, and on the left St. Chad's. The modern structure of this name is the fashionable church of the town. It stands near the entrance to a magnificent avenue of limes, which form a public promenade, and intersect the sloping green sward of the quarry.

Next to the public buildings we have noted, the most striking features which meet the eye in passing along the streets are those presented by the domestic buildings of past centuries. Their white squares and black timbers, their lofty fronts and latticed windows, opening upon carved and highly-ornamented balconies, have a pleasing, suggestive aspect. They tell us that our ancestors, who built churches and endowed them, who fought stout battles and won them, had the love of home which characterizes our countrymen. At the head of these stands the Council-house, so called from its having been the occasional residence of the Council of the Marches. It was the residence, too, of Charles I. and James II. during their visits to the town; and at present forms several handsome private dwelling-houses. Its carved front, and highlyornamented timber gateway leading out of the castle street, are relics of considerable interest in themselves. Many of these fine old homes

of wealthy burghers are to be seen in the direction of Mardol, and along High-street to the bottom of Wyle Cop. They project across and shade the flags in front; sideways they nod and lean, till they sometimes touch, forming dark arcades, locally known as shuts. Many of these singularly beautiful, but now neglected structures, are to be found in out-of-the-way places, where they appear to shun observation. One faded mansion of the kind, with cloistered arches, ornamental upright brackets, and projecting stories, has been converted into shambles; and the beautiful ceilings, ornamented mouldings, panellings, fireplaces, and carvings of others have been torn down, and their outer shells made to serve as storehouses for bark or timber. In wandering through the dark passages of one we came upon a brush-maker, who seemed as surprised at seeing any human being but himself amid its wilderness of rooms as Robinson Crusoe did in discovering other footsteps but his own on his solitary island.

Equally metamorphosed are the old guilds, or halls of the trades, where feasting, and no little tyranny, was practised by corporations of shearers, mercers, and others. Excepting the latter-the members of which took the oath of allegiance before the mayor the other daythese corporate bodies no longer exist; but the old panellings, the quaint carvings, the portraits of the patrons and presidents, and the tables, may still be seen; and the modern pageant of Shrewsbury Show serves to recal the nature of the festivals these bodies kept up in former times.

With the founders of Shrewsbury's most valued institutions-a list including royal personages as well as private citizens-we find education and religion cared for. In some instances the funds of one were diverted to meet the wants of the other, as in the case of the Grammar School, founded by King Edward, and endowed by him out of the dissolved colleges of St. Mary's and St. Chad's. This valuable institution, enriched from time to time by subsequent endowments, has been fortunate in its masters, and eminently successful in sending out clever men, who have not unfrequently attained great eminence.

The Severn having completed its silvery crescent round the tower, falls back into a reverse and graceful curve in the direction of Uffington, a little village, pleasantly situated, three miles from Shrewsbury. Behind it rises the wooded steep of Haughmond, crowned by a castellated turret on the side next the river. Down these steep rocks-so tradition tellsEarl Douglas leaped his horse and fell, after the battle of Shrewsbury. A dark thicket of firs upon its brow is still called the Queen's Bower, from a legend that Queen Eleanor watched the progress of the battle in which the fortunes of her husband were involved. Sundorn, the seat of the Corbets, with its lawn and lakes and ornamental grounds, occupies an opening in the dark mantling chace to the west. On the same

side against the same dark background are the ruins of Haughmond, an abbey founded by Henry I., who gave its monks the pannage of the neighbouring woods, and rights of Weir and fishing in the Tern. They had, as we have seen, mills to grind and cooks to dress their food, and incomes from churches as far off as Coventry and Norwich; indulgences, too, were granted by Pope Boniface to penitents who should visit the monastery. Its chapter-house is a beautiful one of its kind. Archæologists visiting these ruins are pained to find how much they have been tampered with by modern builders, in taking portions down and "turning others to account.'

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Leaving Uffington, with Haughmond hill behind us, and passing Preston Boats, we find Longmore Hall on the left, the mansion of the Burtons, one of whom, an ancestor of the present Squire lies buried in the garden. He was refused interment in the family vault of St. Chads because he had been so wicked as to die of joy upon the occasion of Queen Elizabeth coming to the throne.

The village of Atcham, with its bridge, church, and well-known inn, are now before us. These, with Attingham hall-the seat of Lord Berwick, where the Tern comes down to join the Severn, are objects familiar to old travellers along the Holyhead road. On passing the bridge, the river winds caressingly around a grassy knoll, on which stands the quaint and quiet village church, whose form is reflected by its placid waters. The green tresses shed of the luxurious ivy, serve to conceal facts which show the real age of the structure, tolerable indications of which, however, are to be found in the fact that stones forming sections of a Roman arch, and a portion of a sculptured Roman column, form a part of its walls. These, no doubt, were part of the spoil of the ancient city of Uriconium lower down. Among the relics the old building contains is the reading-desk, carved, it is said, by Albert Durer; the panels of which represent passages in the parable of the Prodigal Son. Atcham is celebrated as being the residence of an able Salopian author, who lived soon after the Norman Conquest, and who faithfully recorded the transactions of his time. The Rev. H. Burton, who takes great pride in this venerable fabric, has done much to improve and restore it. The river, after winding considerably, below Atcham, passes the site of the ancient city of Uriconium. The first thing which strikes you upon alighting on this rich bit of table-land, bounded by the graceful winding of the Severn on one side, and by the farfamed Wrekin, that once lent its name to the great city, on the other-is the situation. Verily the old Romans, or whoever selected it, must have had some taste for the beautiful, some liking for pure air-for air filtered by trees and purified by hills. Like Caersws, it is the centre of an amphitheatre of hills, a position in harmony with the genius and daring of the people. Beyond the river, on whose waters the Britons

paddled their wicker boats, are seen the keenbacked Lawley, the pointed Caradoc, the roundtopped Longmynds, the craggy Stiperstones; and, higher up the valley, the stately Brieddens, the hills of Llangollen, and others meet the eye. And, if we except some forest-lands where red deer bounded and the wild boar stood at bay, the state of the surface is not far different from the time when the sound of Roman trumpets and the shout of imperial legions broke the echo of the hills. From very childhood one has wondered at those hardy sons of Romulus, who dared the deep and came so far from home, ransacking our mines, and leaving roads, cities, and forms of government as indications of their presence. And here is the quiet sunlight let in once more upon their streets, their habitations, their gods, their goods, their personal ornaments, and the skeletons of the men themselves. You walk their streets, cross their thresholds, and stand where Roman slaves ushered in their masters' visitors to parties of festivity, or council deliberating upon more serious matters. After a lapse of fifteen hundred years, during which the surface has many times changed masters, you tread their mosaic pavements, the ornamented passages of their mansions, handle their domestic utensils, admire their well-turned arches, and see the very paint and plaster upon the walls of their apartments. The" old wall" that stood mute for centuries, like some old world relic, has grown eloquent: a veritable sphynx by the roadside, suggesting enigmas to the passers by, it has found its interpreter in the revelations the pick and spade have made within reach of its own shadow. From the very time when its fellow-walls first fell down with a crash, the city has furnished plunder for the country round. The old monks, who found it easier to take down its stones than to quarry new ones, built their churches with its spoil; whilst the old fragment to which we alluded, itself served as a perpetual advertisement of treasures buried around it. That a suspicion of the wealth which lay beneath its dark soil led persons who knew little or nothing of its history to poach upon its preserves, is evidenced by the fact that it was only upon the ground that they had found nothing, that a party of treasure seekers, detected digging by night, escaped the terrors of the Wroxeter manorial court in the thirteenth century. During the latter end of the past, and the first half of the present centuries much treasure has been removed; for, notwithstanding the jealous care taken by the lords of the soil to secure objects dug up, or turned up by the plough, there is scarcely a cottager for miles round but has done a small but profitable trade in coins or other articles of value. We have been told, by farmers in villages near, of Roman skulls having been used by their men as lanterns, for which they said they were suited by reason of their large size. To become the Cicerone of the reader over the old town whose streets so long since have ceased to echo to the tread of its inhabitants, let us mark its ancient circuit as

indicated by the broad mound and hollow, left by its walls and fosse-forming an irregular oval. We enter from that well-known Roman road, Old Watling-street, by one running at right angles, parallel with the Old Wall, and paved with small smooth stones, like many of our modern towns. North of this we come upon a beautiful tesselated pavement, highly ornamental, having an elegant border. Light and dark coloured stones of small size and oblong form, three inches long and one or one-and-a-half square at the surface, were employed to work out the design; but in the decorative border alluded to another of a red colour was added. A similar pavement was found at a short distance, indicating the existence of rooms of some pretension. A passage 14 feet broad, paved with bricks three inches long by one in width, set in what is called herring-bone fashion, leads from hence to a large rectangular enclosure, 226 feet in length by three in width. South of the Old Wall, where doorways have been found, worn by feet, we come upon the domestic apartments of the establishment, to which belonged the rooms on the other side, where are several apartments with hypocausts, for the purpose of warming the buildings, and from which the heat was conducted by flue-tiles to other apartments. These are in an excellent state of preservation, with pillars supporting the floors of the rooms, and portions of the flooring itself still standing. Upon a flooring of bricks are raised pillars of small square quarries, at a distance of two or three feet apart. On the tops of these are others projecting till they meet, and having holes to admit the heat. On these again is concrete-liquid mortar, and broken tiles-to form the flooring. One hypocaust had a room, with a semicircular recess over it, 37 feet by 25, communicating with another similarly provided. The hypocaust under the latter was approached by a stone staircase from without, and at the bottom of the latter, on a little platform, where the sweepings of the establishment had accumulated, was found a mine of old pottery, glass, coins, hair-pins, bones of edible animals of the time-wild boar tusks, red deer horns, &c., &c. Three of the rooms on this, the south side of the old wall, appear to have had vaulted roofs, and one is supposed to have been used as a store-room, judging from some burnt wheat found there. The human skeletons met with in different portions of the ruins are supposed to afford evidence of the massacre of the inhabitants. Five of these appear to have been pursued and slaughtered in an open court south of the old wall, and three others to have perished in one of the hypocausts, where they had fled for safety. One of the latter was evidently an old man, with whom the ruling passion was strong in death; for near him were a heap of Roman coins, 132 in number, and among them small nails and bits of decomposed wood, as though they had been contained in a box of that material. These coins were all, excepting one

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