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Cross; an old man below is looking devoutly at him: at the foot of the cross is painted a large stone, on which sits a weeping cherub; the stone bears this inscription " Ne patris sui manibus terra gravis esset hoc saxum cruci advolvebat et huic loco donabat Antonius Van Dyck.” A fine painting of the God of the Scheldt ; I forget the painter's name. Another of the Fall of the Angels, by François Flors; the devils represented with human bodies and heads of different animals! On the lower corner of the right side is painted a large Bee, by another artist, for which he received the daughter of Flors in marriage, the latter having resolved that none but an excellent painter should marry his child.
From the Academy we went to the GRAND BASIN for shipping, which lies to the north of the city. Cluse by stands the Hanseatic House, a large old square brick building, employed as warehouses. Our next visit was to the Church of the Convent of the Dominicans, where a few good pictures are to be seen -The Scourging and Crucifixion, by Rubens; Christ bearing the Cross, by Van Dyck. The grand altar was graced with a painting of the Descent from the Cross, by Cornelius Cels. Over the gate, leading to the choir, is a curious Globe Clock with a figure of Time, who points out the hour with his dart as the sphere revolves! The Confessionals in this church are all ornamented with statues. On the outside of the church was a curious kind of grotto work against the wall, adorned with several stone statues. The fabric
was surmounted with a large crucifix; a little below is a woman catching the blood in a cup. At the base is a representation of the tomb of Christ : a little grating in the front allowed us a view of the corpse within. Around the tomb is painted Purgatory, where several human heads are seen in the flames. Leaving this puppet-show of superstition, we ascended the Tower of Notre Dame, four hundred and fifty Flemish feet in height. After mounting six hundred and twenty toilsome steps we reached the top, whence we enjoyed a most beautiful view of the City! The Tower contains a set of carillons, and in all eighty-two bells, the largest of which weighs 16,000 lbs. The interior of the church we found very handsome, without any gaudiness. It contains three paintings by Rubens ; viz. The Descent from the Cross; the Ascension of the Virgin (High Altar); and the Elevation of the Cross, after Christ is nailed to it. The lantern over the centre has a picture of the Ascension.
We then returned to the hotel, through the square where the Fairs are held. At that time several booths were occupied by persons who exhibited for sale prints, toys, jewellery and other articles. After dinner we went to the church St. Jacques, and viewed the grave of RUBENS! It is situated in a little chapel behind the altar, ornamented with a painting of Rubens' family, by himself. We next viewed a private collection of pictures for sale, which were said to be by Annibal Caracci, Rubens, Van Dyck and other great masters. In the evening we went te
the Theatre, and saw Gulistan and Lise et Colin. The acting far superior to that at Gand, which did not very much interest our attention.
Friday, 13th.—Left ANTWERP at half-past nine o'clock this morning in a VOITURE, whose driver offered to convey us to Brussels for 30 francs. The three Englishmen whom we had joined on our road from Ghent, were our travelling companions.
As we passed through the fortifications of Antwerp, some of the soldiers stopped the coach to inquire if there was any officer with us. The day was pleasant, but a thick fog lay over the country; this, however, soon disappeared. On the road we met some Gens d'Armes with deserters. We passed through Bol and reached Malines (Mechlin) about one o'clock. This was formerly a considerable place. The CATHEDRAL is a fine Gothic structure, with a tower three hundred and forty-eight feet high, containing an extensive view of the surronnding country. The moon shining with great brightness on this tower, once gave it the appearance of being on fire, and the inhabitants, it is said, ran in crowds lo extinguish the flames. Hence it is a common jest with the Flemings to say, that the wise men of Mechlin wished to put out the moon! It is famous for its lace, breweries, and tan-yards. Provisions are reported to be very cheap in this city. After taking dinner at this place, we again set out at half-past two o'clock. When about a league from Brussels we saw, on our left, an immense brick building of a square form, which we
learnt was the prison of LA FORCE. A little farther on we came to an inn called The Three Fountains, on account of an adjacent fountain of stone with three streams. Here the road took its direction along the side of the canal which was on the left, whilst the right was ornamented with a row of noble trees. The scenery here became very beautiful, and we were gratified with a fine view of the Palace of LAKEN, situated on the top of the eminence to the right. The slope is laid out with trees, &c., and presents to the view a most beautiful garden. Some distance farther we came to the extremity of the famous Allée Verde, crossed a draw-bridge, and about a mile farther, entered, by six o'clock in the evening,
BRUSSELS. At the gate the person on duty received our passports. We proceeded to the Hotel de Saxe-Teschen, (which was recommended to us by our Irish friend at Ostend) in the Rue de la Madelaine, but our companions not being pleased with the look of the house, we put up at the GRAND MIROIR, Rue de la Montaigne.
Saturday, 14th. We all set out, accompanied by a Captain B. (a naval officer and friend of our fellowtravellers) to the Museum, a good-looking square building on the Montagne de la Cour (La Cour being formerly the name of the building). The upper story contained a very fine collection of Pictures, some of which were by Rubens and Van Dyck. A
good painting, from the pencil of the former, re. presents the Martyrdom of a Saint! The executioner has just torn out the sufferer's tongne and is giving it to a dog. After viewing the pictures, we proceeded to the Hotel d'Arconati, in the Place Royale, where we obtained our passport, which had received some additional signatures, that gave us permission to proceed to Paris.
The Place ROYALE is a fine square surrounded with noble buildings, and together with the adjacent park, forms by far the grandest part of Brussels.
Called on Mr. P., Montagne de la Cour, to whom I had letters of introduction; but did not find him at home. Called also on Mr. Van M., in the Place de Monnoie, whom we found very pleasant and intelligent. After sitting nearly an hour with him, during which he promised to get us a sight of some private collections of pictures in the town, we returned to dinner at the Table d'Hôte. Here the musicians were introduced as usual, and the party at table, consisting mostly of English, were gratified with God save the King and other national airs.
After dinner we visited the CATHEDRAL, to which we ascended by a flight of steps. It has two towers at the western extremity, but its interior is remarkable for nothing except a fine pulpit carved in wood, and representing the expulsion of Adam and Eve from
Paradise. On the front of the pulpit a curious device is represented in gold. In the centre the word