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A small pedestal and bust to Fran. Van Sterrebeeck, Prêtre d'Hamburg.
Ditto, to Charles D'Olmen, Baron de Poederlé.
Ditto, to LINNÆUS, with the following inscription:
A tree dedicated to Joseph François Van Haut; the tree is Pistacia Lentiscus.
In different parts of the garden were STATUES of Ceres, Bacchus and other Heathen Deities. Leaving the garden, we just stepped into the Church of St. Augustin, where service was performing, but it contained nothing particularly worthy of notice.
The Museum, or ACADEMY, was the next public place visited by us. It is a long room, containing many fine pictures. On the floor (which was of red tile), lay a picture of Rubens', just restored from Paris in a bad condition. The subject, “ La Ville de Tournay''-an emblematical piece.
The staircase is adorned with some paintings,
among which, the most deserving of attention are two by Crairer--the subjects, The Ascension and Crucifixion of Christ.
In the room itself the following are the most rem markable :-François the First taken prisoner ; Emblematical picture of Charles the Fifth and Africa, both by Crairer; Crucifixion, by Van Helmont; Judgment of Solomon, by Crairer, a fine picture; Woman and Fishmonger, with a boy cutting the woman's purse, by Van Hoetrecht--the fish good, but not the figures. In a smaller room are more pictures, the most remarkable of which was St. Anthony in kis Cell, tormented by an immense number of Devils in different shapes! The painter was Teniers : the style light and silvery.
On our way we were struck with seeing a large piece of ORDNANCE at the extremity of one of the streets, apparently fixed there as a curiosity. While preparing to take a sketch of it, a little boy ran out of a neighbouring house, and offered for sale a print of it, which accordingly saved me my trouble. This print states its length as eleven and a half feet, its bore as two and a quarter, and its weight 20,080 lbs.! Any further particulars, as to the place whence this gun came, or the reason of its present situation, we were utterly unable to obtain.
We then returned to the inn ; gave our conductor three francs, and ordered tea. After which, we went to the Theatre, situated at one corner of the Place d'Armes. Paid, through a little hole in the wall, before
we entered the building, three francs each for the boxes. The entrance and staircase to the boxes extremely shabby and mean, as if built of old shiptimber. A woman admitted us into one of the boxes, which were separated from each other by partitions, and contained two or three chairs, some without backs: a small moveable bench formed a variety. The Theatre was badly ornamented. The house itself lighted by a circle of lamps suspended from the ceiling. * The actors not very capital—the performance in French the pieces, Michel Ange and Une Folie. It began at six, and ended at a quarter to ten.
We dined to-day at the ordinary, where a foreign gentleman asked us to join him in a coach to Anvers, to which we readily agreed.
Wednesday 1lth -Ascended the Tower of St. Bouvon, in order to have a general view of GAND.
* This was the case with all the Theatres we saw on the Continent. All the light in the house consists of the row of lamps along the front of the stage, and a large glass lustre, with several circles of Argand lamps, suspended from the centre of the ceiling
In the Continental Theatres no person in the boxes is allowed to wear his hat. When at the Ghent THEATRE, Mr. B. happened to have his hat on, which soon excited cries of
Chapeau bas, Anglois !" these did not cease until the unluckyhat was taken off. In the François, at Paris, we saw the perforinance of Hamlet quite interrupted by the obstinacy of some Englishmen, who would not comply with this regulation.
Southey, however, says
Of the ancient Towers of Guest
Nor how we mounted to that ponderous Bell;
Returned to breakfast, and left Gand in the machine at twenty minutes after nine. Our vehicle was like a bad hackney-coach ; three small horses ; our companion's servant rode on the dickey with the driver. The road paved in the middle, and rows of trees on each side. The country very flat, with many trees of no great size. In about an hour we arrived at the village of Locristie, where the horses rested for a short time, then proceeded to Lokeren, where we arrived at a quarter to twelve, and met with three English travellers, who had engaged a cabriolet. We joined them in a lunch of coutelets and ham, (two francs each)-left at a quarter to one-passed through a village at a quarter to two, and ten minutes after two arrived at St. Nicolas, where we took some coffee, and again proceeded on our road. At last the fine lofty spire of Antwerp appeared at the extremity of the avenue of trees, and about a mile and a half from the city we entered upon a long marshy plain. Passed through some fortified works, and came to the ferry-house on the west side of the Scheldt: a fine view of Anvers on the other side
here presented itself. At this place we left our voiture and crossed in a large boat or lighter-the river about the breadth of the Thames at London.
ANTWERP. Reached this city about half past five took some tea, and walked round the town with our three English friends whom we had met upon the road, and now again joined at our inn, (L'Hotel d'Angleterre). Our share in the voiture came to thirty-four francs.
Thursday, 12th.—Breakfasted, got a laquais de place and set out with our three friends. Our first visit was to THE ACADEMY ; we entered through a gate into a pleasant little garden, at the extremity of which stood the building, which was a fine Gothic Hall, and had formerly been a Convent. Here we saw a grand collection of the works of Rubens. The richness of colour and freedom of touch was superior to any thing I had ever before seen. The subjects of the chief of them were these-Adoration of the three Kings; Christ on the Cross, whilst the soldier is breaking the legs of the thieves; The Trinity; Christ Dead and two weeping Children, whose faces appeared to me very bad; a small picture of the Descent from the Cross ; the large one from which it is copied is in the Church Notre Dame. The man above the cross is holding the linen with his teeth, which appears rather a conceit; The Virgin teaching St. Ann to read. Here were also some paintings by Van Dyck. Women weeping over Christ ; Christ on the