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CONTENTS.

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CHAPTER X.

Visit to the Islands.. Character of the Scenery.

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THE

EMPIRE OF THE CZAR.

CHAPTER I.

ARRIVAL OF THE HEREDITARY GRAND DUKE OF RUSSIA AT EMS.
CHARACTER OF RUSSIAN COURTIERS. THE PERSON OF THE
GRAND DUKE. HIS FATHER AND UNCLE AT THE SAME AGE. -
HIS EQUIPAGES AND SUITE. SUPERIORITY OF THE ENGLISH IN
ALL EXTERNAL APPURTENANCES. THE RHINE.
MORE BEAUTIFUL THAN ITS BANKS.
RHINE.

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THE RIVER

FIRE-FLIES

ON THE

I DATE from yesterday the commencement of my Russian Travels.* The Hereditary Grand Duke has arrived at Ems, preceded by ten or twelve carriages, and attended by a numerous court.

What has chiefly struck me in my first view of Russian courtiers is the extraordinary submissiveness with which, as grandees, they perform their devoirs. They seem, in fact, to be only a higher order of slaves; but the moment the Prince has retired, a free, unrestrained, and decided manner is reassumed, which contrasts unpleasantly with that complete abnegation of self, affected only the moment before. In a word, there appears to reign throughout the suite * 5th June, 1839.

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CHARACTER OF RUSSIAN COURTIERS.

of the heir of the imperial throne, a habit of servile docility from which the nobles are not more exempt than the valets. It is not merely the etiquette that regulates other courts, where official respect, the importance of the office rather than that of the person, the compulsory part, in short, that has to be played, produces ennui, and sometimes ridicule: it is something more; it is a spontaneous and involuntary humility, which yet does not altogether exclude arrogance: it seems to me as though I could hear them say, "since it cannot be otherwise, we are glad to have it so." This mixture of pride and humiliation displeases me, and by no means prepossesses me in favour of the country I am about to survey.

I found myself amid the crowd of curious spectators close to the Grand Duke, just as he descended from his carriage; and as he stood for some time before entering the gate of the maison des bains, talking with a Russian lady, the Countess I was able to observe him at my leisure. His age, as his appearance indicates, is twenty: his height is commanding, but he appears to me, for so young a man, rather fat., His features would be handsome were it not that their fulness destroys their expression. His round face rather resembles that of a German than a Russ; it suggests an idea of what the Emperor Alexander's must have been at the same age, without however recalling, in any degree, the physiognomy of the Calmuc. A face of this cast will pass through many changes before assuming its definitive character. The habitual humour which it, at present, denotes, is gentleness and benevolence; but between the youthful smile of the eyes, and the constant contraction of the

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