87 St Bartholomew's

On the fouth fide of this area, and contiguous to Chrift's hofpital, is St Bartholemew's Hofpital. It was Hopital originally founded foon after the acceffion of Henry I. by Rahere the king's jefter, as an infirmary for the priory of St Bartholemew the Great, which then flood near the pot. But upon the diffolution of religious boules, Henry VIII. refounded it, and endowed it with 500 marks a-year, on condition that the citizens fhould pay the fame fum annuaily for the relief of 100 lame and infirm patients. The endowments of this charity have fince been fo much enlarged, that it now receives the diftreffed of all denominations. In 1702,

Old Bailey,

$9 Newgate.

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a beautiful frontifpiece was erected towards Smithfield, adorned with pilafters, entablature, and a pediment of the Ionic order, with a ftatue of King Henry VIII. standing in a niche in full proportion, and thole of two cripples on the top of the pediment over it. In 1729, a plan was formed for rebuilding the reft of this hofpital, in confequence of which a magnificent edifice has been erected.

Among many other privileges granted by Henry I. to the prior and canons of the monaftery of St Bartholomew the Great, and to the poor of the infirmary, was that of keeping a fair in Smithfield on the eve, day, and morrow, of St Bartholomew. This fair, called Bartholomew-fair, has been held annually ever fince and by the indulgence of the magistrates of London, to whom the privilege of keeping it devolved upon the diffolution of the priory, it used to continue a fortnight. A great number of booths was erected in it by the actors of the theatres, for the exhibition of dramatic performances of various kinds; and it became at length a fcene of fo much licentioufnefs and riot, that Sir John Barnard when lord mayor of London reduced the time of the fair to its original duration of three days. This laudable example has been This laudable example has been followed ever fince; and the magiftrates have likewise prohibited all public exhibitions which had been for merly accompanied with fo much diforder.

In a street in this ward, called the Old Bailey, is a hall named Juice hall, or the Seffion's house, where a court is held eight times a-year by the king's commillion of oyer and terminer for the trial of criminals for offences committed within the city of London and county of Middlefex. The judges of this court are the lord mayor, thofe of the aldermen that have ferved that office, and the recorder; who are attended by the fheriffs and by one or more of the national judges.

In this street is alfo the great criminal prifon, lately built in a much more convenient fituation, and on a more enlarged plan, than the former prifon, called Newgate by which name it is fill diftinguished. Here the unfortunate debtor will no longer be annoyed by the dreadful rattle of chains, or by the more horrid founds iffuing from the lips of thofe wretched beings who fet defiance to all laws divine and human; and here alfo, the offender, whofe crime is not capital, may enjoy all the benefits of a free open air.

In this ward is likewife a prifon called the Fleet Prifon, from a fmall river named the Fleet which fermerly ran by it: this building is large, and reckoned the beft in the city for good rooms and other conve2 :

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In Chancery-lane, in this ward, is an office confift-The k ing of a house and chapel, called the office and chapel of the Rolls, from being the great repository of the modern public rolls and records of the kingdom. This building was originally the houfe of an eminent Jew; but being forfeited to the crown, King Henry III. in the year 1223 converted it into a hofpital for the reception and accommodation of Jewish and other profelytes. In 1377, Edward III. granted this hofpital and its chapel to William Burftall mafter of the rolls, to whofe fucceffors in that office it has ever fince belonged. Round this office there is a fmall district confifting of about 200 houfes, called the Liberty of the Rolls, over which the magiftrates of London have no authority, it being under the government of the mafter of the rolls.

In this ward are feveral Inns of court and chancery, particularly the Inner and Middle Temple, Serjeants Inn, Clifford's Inn, Barnard's Inn, Staple's Inn, and Furnival's Inn.

The Temple received its name from being originally The founded by the Knights Templars, who fettled hereple. in 1185. It was at firft called the New Temple, to diftinguish it from the former house of the Knights Templars, which flood in Holborn near Chancery lane.

The original building was divided into three parts; the Inner, the Middle, and the Outer Temple. The Inner and the Outer Temple were fo called, because one was within and the other was without the Bar; and the Middle derived its name from being fituated between them. Upon the diffolution of the order of Knights Templars, the New Temple devolved to the Knights Hofpitallers of St John of Jerufalem, who granted a leafe of it to the students of the common law, and converted that part of it called Inner and Middle Temple into two inns of court for the ftudy and practice of the common law. The Outer Temple became a houfe for the earl of Effex.

The buildings of the Temple escaped the fire in 1666, but were most of them deftroyed by fubfequent fires, and have fince been rebuilt. The two Temples are each divided into several courts, and have pleasant gardens on the banks of the Thames. They are appropriated to diftinct focieties, and have separate halls, where the members dine in common during term-time. The Inner Temple hall is faid to have been built in the reign of Edward III. and the middle Temple hall, which is a magnificent edifice, was rebuilt in 1572 in form of a college hall. The Middle Temple gate, Mr Pennant informs us, was erected by Sir Amias Powlet on a fingular occafion. It seems that Sir Amias, about the year 1501 thought fit to put Cardinal Wolfey, then parfon of Lymington, into the flocks. In 1515, being fent for to London by the cardinal on account of that ancient grudge, he was commanded not to quit town till farther orders. In confequence, he lodged five or fix years in this gateway, which he rebuilt; and to pacify his eminence, adorned the front with the cardinal's cap, badges, cognifance, and other devices of this butcher's fon; fo low were the great

men

which are well ecuted. This building was 540 feet London. long and 40 broad, exclufive of two wings of a later erection, intended for the reception of fuch lunatics as were deemed incurable. This hofpital contained a great number of convenient cells or apartments, where the patients were maintained and received all medical affiftance without any other expence to their friends than that of bedding. The ftru&ture was divided into two ftories, through each of which ran a long gallery from one end of the house to the other. On the fouth fide were the cells, and on the north the windows that gave light to the galleries, which were divided in the middle by handfome iron gates, to keep the men and women feparate. This hofpital being pulled down, it is intended to erect another building for the ufe of the fame charity, a ta fhort distance from the metropolis. A new road is to be opened from the fite of the old hofpital to the Royal Exchange.

ordon. men obliged to ftoop to that meteor of the times! Each temple has a good library, adorned with paintings, and well furnished with books. An affembly, called a parliament, in which the affairs of the fociety of the Inner Temple are managed, is held there every term. Both Temples have one church, firft founded in 1185, by the Knights Templars; but the prefent edifice is fuppofed to have been built in 1420. It is fupported by neat flender pillars of Suffex marble, and is one of the most beautiful Gothic ftru&tures in England. In this church are many monuments, particularly of nine Knights Templars cut in marble in full proportion, fome of them feven feet and a half long; fix are cross-legged, and therefore fuppofed to have been engaged in the crufades. The minifter of this church, who is ufually called the mafter of the Temple, is appointed by the benchers or fenior members of both focieties, and prefented by a patent from the crown. Shakespeare (whether from tradition or hiftory) makes the Temple garden the place in which the badge of the white and red rofe originated; the diftinctive badge of the houfes of York and Lancaster, under which the refpective partizans of each arranged themselves in the fatal quarrel which caufed fuch torrents of English blood to flow.

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Near the Temple bar is the Devil's Tavern, so called from its fign of St Dunstan feizing the evil fpirit by the nofe with a pair of hot tongs. Ben Johnfon has immortalized it by his Leges Conviviales, which he wrote for the regulation of a club of wits held in a room he dedicated to Apollo; over the chimney-piece of which they are preferved. The tavern was in his days kept by Simon Wadloe; whom, in a copy of verfes over the door of the Apollo, he dignified with the title of King of Skinkers.

Serjeants Inn is a fmail inn in Chancery-lane, where ancery. the judges and ferjeants have chambers, but not houfes, as they had in another inn of this name in Fleet-ftreet, which they abandoned in 1730; but in each of them there is a hall and a chapel. Clifford's Inn is an inn of chancery belonging to the Inner Temple. It was originally a houfe granted by Edward II. to the family of the Cliffords, from which it derived its name; but was afterwards let upon leafe to the ftudents of the law, and in the reign of Edward III. fold to the membors of this fociety. Bernard's Inn is likewife an inn of chancery belonging to Gray's Inn. It ftands in Holborn, and was the houfe of John Mackworth, dean of Lincoln, who gave it to the profeffors of the law. Staple's Inn belongs alfo to Gray's Inn, and is fituated in Holborn. It was once a hall for the merchants of the ftaple for wool, whence it derives its name; but it was purchased by the benchers of Gray's Inn, and has been an inn of chancery fince the year 1415. Furnival's Inn is an inn of chancery belonging to Lincoln's Inn, and was once the houfe of the family of the Furnivals, by whom it was let out to the profeffors of the law. It is a large old building, with a hall and a pleasant garden. In Coleman-ftreet ward, on the fouth fide of a large pital. fquare called Moorfields, flood Bethlehem Hofpital, founded in 1675 by the lord mayor and citizens of London for the reception and cure of poor lunatics. It was a noble edifice, built with brick and ftone, and adorned with pilafters, entablatures, and sculpture; particularly with the figures of two lunatics over the grand gate, VOL. XII. Part I.

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Oppofite to Bethlehem hofpital ftood that of St St Luke's Luke, a long plain building, till of late appropriated to Hofpital. the fame purpofes, but wholly independent of the former. It was founded on the humane confideration that Bethlehem was incapable of receiving all the miferable objects which were offered. Of late years the patients were removed from the old hofpital to a new one erected under the fame name in Old-ftreet, on the plan of the former, extending in front 492 feet. The old hofpital is now pulled down, and replaced by a handfome row of houses. Uncured patients may be taken in again, by a very liberal regulation, on the payment of five shillings a week; fo that their friends may, if they choose, try a fecond time the force of medicine on their unhappy relations or acquaintances.

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Befides the three markets already mentioned at Different Smithfield for cattle and hay, at Leadenhall for but-markets, chers meat, wool, hides, and Colchester baize, and at Billingfgate for fifh; there are in this city the following other markets, which are all very confiderable, viz. Honey-lane, Newgate, and Fleet-market, chiefly for flesh, though with feparate divisions for fish, butter, eggs, poultry, herbs, and fruit; and the ThreeCranes market, for apples and other fruit. The principal corn-market is held in a neat exchange fituated in Market-lane, and that for flour at Queenhithe. In Thames-ftreet, near Billingfgate, there is an exchange for dealers in coals and mafters of veffels in that trade to tranfact their business.

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II. The Borough of SOUTHWARK. It was called by 2. Borough the Saxons Suth, or the " South work," in refpect wark, its to fome fort or fortification bearing that afpect from jurifdicLondon. It was alfo called the Borough, or Burg, tion, &es probably from the fame reafon. It was long independent of the city of London: but, in consideration of the inconveniences arifing from the efcape of malefactors from the great capital into this place, it was in 1327 granted by Edward III. to the city, on payment of 10l. annually. It was then called the village of Southwark; it was afterwards ftyled the bailiwick of Southwark, and the mayor and commonalty of London appointed the bailiff. This power, however, not being fufficient to remedy the evil, a more intimate connexion was thought neceffary; and in the reign of Edward VI. on a valuable confideration paid to the crown, it was formed into a 26th ward, by the title of Bridge Ward Without; with a refervation of certain

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London. privileges enjoyed there by the archbishop of Canterbury and fome other ecclefiaftics. In confequence of this, it was fubjected to the lord mayor of London, with the steward and bailiff. But Southwark being divided into two parts, this is to be understood of the divifion called the Borough Liberty, which confifts of three of the parishes belonging to the town, with the greater part of a fourth parith. For the city divifion, the lord mayor by his fteward holds a court of record every Monday at the feffions houfe on St Margaret's Hill in this borough for all debts, damages, and trefpaffes within the limits of his jurifdiction. The other divifion is called the Clink, or the Manor of Southwark, and is fubdivided into the Great Liberty, the Guildball, and the King's Manor; for each of which fubdivifions a court-leet is held, where the conftables, ale98. conners, and flefh-tafters, are chofen, and other bufiCourts. nefs of this kind tranfacted. A court-house, called Union Hall, has lately been built in the new street called Union-freet, which leads in a direct line from the high-street in the Borough to Great Surry-ftreet Blackfriars road. The Clink liberty is under the jurifdiction of the bishop of Winchester, who, befides a court-leet, keeps here a court of record on the Bankfide near St Saviour's church by his fteward or bailiff, for pleas of debt, damages, and trefpaffes. Courtlects are alfo kept at Lambeth, Bermondfey, and Rotherhithe, three fmall diftricts adjoining to the Borough. Prins. There is a compter for the imprisonment of offenders in the bailiwick, and another for the Clink liberty; to which may be added the Surry workhoufe for vagrants. Befides thefe, there is the Marfhalfea-prifon, which is the county gaol for felons, and the admiralty gaol for pirates (G); in which is a court firft erected for trials of caufes between the king's domestics or menial fervants, of which the knight-marshal is prefident, and his steward judge, to whom belong four counsellors and fix attorneys; and the court is held every Friday by him or his deputy, for debt, damages, and trefpaffes, in caufes for 10 miles round Whitehall, except ing London. In this quarter is alfo the King's Bench prifon, the rules of which are above two miles in circuit, and comprife the greateft part of St George's Fields. Here was committed Henry prince of Wales, afterwards King Henry V. by the fpirited and honeft Judge Gafcoigne, for ftriking or infulting him on the bench. In this prifon the allowance is fomewhat better than that of the common prifons; for which reafon, many debtors remove themfelves hither by habeas corpus. It is properly a place of confinement in all cafes triable in the King's Bench court.-The first time that Southwark is mentioned in hiftory is on occafion of Earl Goodwin's failing up the river to attack the royal navy of 50 thips lying before the palace of Westminster: this was in 1052, when we are told he went ad Suthweorce, and ftaid till there the return of the tide.

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St Saviour, St George, and St Thomas; the parish of Lond Chrift-church, though contiguous to the borough, is → in the county of Surry.

The principal church in Southwark is that of St Saviour, which was formerly a priory of regular canons. Being dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and fi tuated near the bank of the Thames, it was called St Mary Over Ree, or Overy, by which appellation it is commonly known. This church is built in the man. ner of a cathedral, with three aifles from eaft to well, and a crofs aifle. It is reckoned the largest parishchurch in England, the three ailes first mentioned measuring 269 feet in length, and the cross aifle 109 feet. The height within is 47 feet, and it has a tower with four fpires 150 feet high.

Not far from St George's church flood the magnificent palace of Charles Brandon duke of Suffolk, the deferved favourite of Henry VIII. After his death, in 1545, it came into the king's hands, who established here a royal mint. It at that time was called Southwark Place, and in great meafure preferved its dignity. Edward VI. once dined in it. His fifter and fucceffor prefented it to Heath archbishop of York, as an inn or refidence for him and his fucceffors whenever they repaired to London. As to the Mint, it became a fanctuary for infolvent debtors; but at length becoming the peft of the neighbourhood, by giving fhelter to villains of every species, that awakened the attention of parliament; which by the ftatutes 8 and 9 Will. III. 9 George I. and 11 George I. entirely took away its abufive privileges.

verfic

In the parish of Chrift-church, near the water on Ancie Bankfide, ftood Paris-garden, one of the ancient play-P places houfes of our metropolis. Ben Johnfon is reproached by one Decker, an envious critic, with his ill fuccefs on the ftage, and in particular with having performed the part of Zuliman at Paris-garden. It seems to have been much frequented on Sundays. This profanation (Mr Pennant obferves) was at length fully punished by the dire accident which befel the fpectators in 1582, when the fcaffolding fuddenly fell, and multitudes of people were killed or miferably maimed. The cmen feems to have been accepted; for in the next century the manor of Paris-garden was erected into a parish, and a church founded under the name of Christ's.

Beyond this place of amufement were the Bear-garden and place for baiting of bulls, the British circi; "Herein (fays Stow) were kept beares, bulls, and other beafts to be bayted; as alfo maftives in feveral kennels nourished to bayt them. Thefe beares and other beafts are there kept in plots of ground fcaffolded about for the beholders to ftand fafe." This was then an amufement for perfons of the first rank our great, if not good, Elizabeth caufed the French ambaffadors to be carried to this theatre, to divert them with these bloody fpectacles.

Not far from thefe fcenes of cruel paftime was the The S Bordello

Lad Bordello or Stews, permitted and openly licensed by government, under certain laws or regulations. They were farmed out. Even a lord mayor did not difdain to own them but rented them to the Froes, that is, "the bawds," of Flanders. Among other fingular regulations, no ftewholder was to admit married women; nor were they to keep open their houses on Sundays; nor were they to admit any women who had on them the perilous infirmity of burning. These infamous houses were very properly fuppreffed in the reign of Henry VIII.

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The bishop of Winchefter had formerly a palace here with a park (the fame that is now called Southwark-park), which is fince converted into warehouses and tenements, held by lease from the bithops of that fee. as's Befides feveral alms-houses, there are here St Thomas's and Guy's Hofpitals, two of the nobleft endowments in England. The former was firft erected in 1215 by Peter de Rupibus bishop of Winchester, who endowed it with land to the amount of 3431. a-year; from which time it was held of the abbots of Bermondfey, one of whom in 1428 granted a right to the mafter of the hofpital to hold all the lands it was then in poffeffion of belonging to the said abbot and convent, the whole revenue of which did not exceed 2661. 175. 6d. per annum. In the year 1551, after the citizens of London had purchased of Edward VI. the manor of Southwark and its appurtenances, of which this hofpital was a part, they expended 1100l. in repairing and enlarging the edifice, and immediately received into it 260 patients; upon which the king in 1553 incorporated this hofpital with thofe of Chrift-church and Bridewell in the city of London. The building being much decayed, three beautiful fquares adorned with colonnades were erected by voluntary subscription in 1693, to which in 1732 the governors added a magnificent building, confifting of feveral wards with proper offices. The annual disbursements of this hofpital have for many years amounted to 8oool. The house is divided into 19 wards, and is faid to contain 474 beds.

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Adjoining to St Thomas's ftand Guy's Hofpital, perhaps the most extenfive charitable foundation that ever was established by one man in private life. The founder of this hofpital was Thomas Guy, a book feller in Lombard-street, London, who lived to fee the edifice roofed in; and at his death, in 1724, left 238,2921. 16s. including the expence of the building, to finish and endow it. This hofpital confifts of two capacious fquares, containing 12 wards and 435 beds. It was incorporated by charter from parliament, and the first governors were appointed in 1725.

In St George's Fields, weftward of the King's Bench prifon, is the Magdalen Hofpital for the reception of penitent prostitutes; a little farther is fituated the Afylum for orphan girls; and not far diftant is the Weftminfter Lying-in Hofpital: Inftitutions, of which the following feeling and animated account is given by Mr Pennant.

"The Afylum is an institution of a most heavenly nature, calculated to fave from perdition of foul and body the brighter part of the creation; fuch on whom Providence hath bestowed angelic faces and elegant forms, defigned as bleffings to mankind, but too often

debafed to the vileft ufes. The hazard that these inno- London. cents conftantly are liable to from a thoufand temptations, from poverty, from death of parents, from the diabolical procurefs, and often from the ftupendous wickedness of parents themselves, who have been known to fell their beauteous girls for the purpose of prostitution, induced a worthy band to found in the year 1758 the Afylum or Houfe of Refuge. Long may it flourish, and eternal be the reward of thofe into whose minds fo amiable a conception entered!

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"To afford means of falvation to those unhappy The Magbeings who had the ill fortune to lofe the benefits of dalen Ho

this divine inftitution, the Magdalen Hofpital was infti- fpital. tuted for the reception of the penitent proftitutes. To fave from vice, is one great merit. To reclaim and reftore to the dignity of honeft rank in life, is certainly not lefs meritorious. The joy at the return of one finner to repentance is esteemed by the highest authority worthy of the heavenly hoft. That ecftafy, I truft, this institution has often occafioned. Since its foundation in the fame year with the former, to December 25. 1786, not fewer than 2471 have been admitted. Of thefe (it is not to be wondered that long and evil habits are often incurable) 300 have been difcharged, uneafy under conftraint; 45 proved lunatics, and afflicted with incurable fits; 60 have died; 52 never returned from hofpitals they were fent to; 338 difcharged for faults and irregularities. How to be dreaded is the entrance into the bounds of vice, fince the retreat from its paths is fo difficult! Finally, 1608 prodigals have been returned to their rejoicing parents; or placed in reputable fervices, or to honeft trades, banes to idleness and securities against a future relapfe." Into this charity, every woman who has been feduced (and is not pregnant or diseased), whether recommended or not, may apply for admiffion to the committee, who meet for that purpose on the first Tuesday in every month.

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Akin to those charities is that of the Lying-in Hofpi- Lying-in tal: which is not intended merely for the reception of Hospital. "the honeft matron who can depofite her burden with the consciousness of lawful love; but alfo for the unhappy wretches whom fome villain in the unguarded moment has feduced, and then left a prey to defertion of friends, to poverty, want, and guilt.-Left such may be driven to despair by fuch complicated misery, and be tempted to deftroy themselves and murder their infants,' here was founded in 1765 this humane preventive, the Westminster New Lying-in Hofpital, in which every affistance and accommodation requisite in fuch fituations are provided in the most attentive and liberal manner. To obviate all objection to its being an encouragement to vice, no one is taken in a second time: but this most excellent charity is open to the worthy distressed matron as often as neceflity requires. None are rejected who have friends to recommend. And of both descriptions upwards of 4000 have experienced its falutary effect."

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St George's Fields are now almoft covered with new St George's erected buildings, from the ditch at the end of Great Fields. Surry-street, or Burrow's Buildings, to the Fishmongers alms-houses, in one direction; and from the Marfhalfea prison to the Dog and Duck, in the other direction; with feveral irregular indentations in its circumfe rence: And where the principal roads meet, an obelifk has been erected, pointing out the distance it stands Cc &

from