Зображення сторінки
PDF
ePub

important part of his work, From the time of Elizabeth and James, our language may be considered as settled; and its subsequent variations have been in general, too capricious to reward the labours of a painful comparison by the discovery of any very valuable conclusions. In other points of view, notwithstanding, the writers of the period between Charles the first's accession and the revolution cannot be said to form the least amusing portion of such a work as this. But we must repeat our opinion that, throughout this last volume, particularly if Mr. Burnet had curtailed his specimens from the best known authors and added to the number of those he has made from some others of less celebrity, he might have rendered his compilation more curious without any injury to his main design. Perhaps, also, the work is brought down to a later period than that design required. At least the materials of his last volume may have been compressed, and those of the first and second proportionably enlarged, with great advantage, we think, to its general utility.

ART. III. A general, historical, and topographical Descrip. tion of Mount Caucasus, with a Catalogue of Plants indigenous to the Country. In two Volumes. Translated from the Works of Dr. Reineggs and Marshall Bieberstein. By Charles Wilkinson. With a Map and Plates. Two Vols. Svo. 15s. Taylor, Hatton Garden. 1807.

THE mountainous district, which lies between the Euxine and the Caspian seas, has not often engaged the attention of travellers. The various small and independent tribes, who inhabit that part, and whose principal business is ravage and plunder, have been very unfavourable to the researches of the curious. Dr. Reineggs appears beyond all other persons to have enjoyed most facilities for this purpose. He passed a considerable time in Georgia, where he enjoyed the friendship and protection of the Zaar Heracleus.-He investigated the characteristic features, the mineral, vegetable and animal productions of that great chain of mountains which goes under the name of Caucasus, with an accuracy and zeal, which evince a mind intent on the advancement of science and the discovery of truth. The account which he has given of this rugged part of the world, abounds with interesting topographical details; and we think that the

translator has rendered an acceptable service by presenting them to the public in an English dress. The mountains of Caucasus constitute one of the barriers which nature has placed between Asia and Europe; the only passes by which any communication can be maintained are difficult and almost impregnable; where a few resolute troops under skilful and experienced officers, might impede the progress of the largest armies. The submission of all Georgia to the dominion of Russia may seem to have secured to that power the command of this Alpine tract: but the rude tribes, who inhabit the mountains, are a hardy and intractable race, jealous of their native liberty and independance, and equally hostile to the ambitious designs of the courts of Ispahan and Petersburgh. Some think that if Bonaparte can secure the co-operation of Russia and of Persia he will march an army over the Caucasus in order to attack our possessions in the East; but we think it more likely that he will trust his army to the difficult navigation of the Caspian than to the perils of a march of more than five hundred miles over the Caucasus, where their supplies will be continually obstructed and their march harassed by the Lesghaes and other hostile tribes.

The height of the Caucasian mountains is difficult to be ascer tained, for the greatest part of the rocky summits is inaccessible notwithstanding their lowness. Surrounded with clouds and fog they are often concealed a long time from our eyes; and horrible abysses, into which the traveller is afraid of falling every moment, excite shuddering and terror. Even the large masses, that are often hurled down, alarm the most resolute and hinder all approach.'

The lowest part, and at the same time the most fertile, is the Eastern. This is accordingly the most populous region of the Caucasus; in proportion as it recedes to the west the height and the sterility increase.

' On the western side there is only soil sufficient to produce different species of moss. The beech trees, which have sparingly taken root between the fissures, are stunted and unsightly. There are no inhabitants. The few remains of masonry appear to be the ruins of churches, or the habitations of hermits, who buried themselves in that elevated solitude.' 'In the primitive and middle mountains are found veins of very rich ore; and springs of excellent quality. In many parts of the promontory black naphtha arises; and on the S.E. side white petroleum is found. As the surface of all the foremost and most of the middle mountains is covered with a sufficient quantity of soil, and the fertility, according to the difference of situation, is abundant, at least there is no where real want; on that account they are adorned with pleasant forests and rich pasture lands: for whenever the summit allows of any possible approach, it is covered with villages and single houses, and rendered

productive. The contented inhabitant certainly suffers indigence in the midst of abundance; but he feels not the loss, because liberty makes him easy and happy and insensible to every thing unnecessary."

The state of the weather and the temperature of the air vary exceedingly in different parts of this mountainous tract. The lower and more exposed parts along the shores of the Caspian are subject to excessive heat; here the fertility is abundant; and the inhabitants of the internal vallies of the highest mountains are said to enjoy most agreeable summers. In the N. and N.W. the winters are longer and more severe. In the mountains of the west the summer seldom lasts more than three months, from the beginning of June to the end of August. In this short interval there is a rapid but fugitive vegetation; for, by the 4th or 8th of September, the snows commence, which successively cover the tops of the higher and lower mountains till many of the vallies are at last filled up with the frozen mass.

The river Terek flows through a great part of the breadth of the Caucasus from S. to N.and nearly divides the whole range into two equal parts;as the Thiuletis, Iskali, and Arakui, do also to the southward.'

The country between Derbend and the Kurr constituted the ancient Hyrcania:

'The long plain that stretches between the Kurr,the southern part of eastern Caucasus, and westward as far as the Alasan, the modern eastern frontier of Georgia, is known by the name of Schirvan ?'

This large range of mountains is occupied by a multitude of tribes whose real extraction it is difficult to ascertain, but who seen to have come from different countries, and at different periods, as they differ in language, governments, customs, and opinions. Many of them are probably scattered remains of the large armies, which in different periods of the world, have endeavoured to penetrate through this rugged barrier from Asia into Europe, or from Europe into

Asia.

'A small river, stream, or mountain, often separates whole tribes, and they must set bounds to their intercourse, because they do not understand one another in their different dialects, and as their unbridled savageness keeps them always in reciprocal fear with their neighbours for the preservation of their lives and property, and does not allow of any friendly communication, so they are often prevented the possibility of learning each others' language.'

'Each house, surrounded with a hedge, of the nations of Caucasus, contains its own proper family, who live by each other from time im

memorial, and possess every thing in common; till their great increase obliges them to separate. The smallest family certainly contains from five to ten men capable of bearing arms, others reckon more; and the force of a single family often amounts to from forty to fifty men, the eldest of whom is always chief, and superintends all family affairs without controul.'

They are desperate robbers; and though they respect the rights of property among those of their own tribe, yet indi viduals rise in estimation and renown in proportion to the depredations which they commit beyond their own frontiers. Christianity, at least what is nominally such, was formerly more prevalent than at present among those mountains, and dilapidated churches are often seen. Many of the mountaineers formerly sold their creed to the agents of the Grand Seignior, who were dispatched to carry on that spiritual traffic; but proselytism is said to have ceased when the annual subsidy for making new converts and encouraging the old was no longer sent.

On the right bank of the Aktasch, in the plain below the eastern range of the Caucasus, is the town of Endrie, containing about three thousand houses; which is considered as a free city by all the tribes. Here every stranger or fugitive, will find hospitality and protection. He, who reaches the bounds of this city, cannot be any longer pursued, whatever crime he may have committed. Here Mahomedans,

Christians, and Jews, are said to enjoy liberty of conscience; and the followers of Moses carry on a considerable trade. The traffic in slaves is said to be very great; for, all the men kidnapped or stolen by the Lesghaes or other robbers as well as all purloined property, are sold to the highest bidder in perfect security, or redeemed by relations or friends.'

The Lesghaes, who appear to be among the most ferocious of the tribes who inhabit the Caucasus, are great men-stealers. In this barbarous occupation they sometimes receive associates from the individuals of other districts. The traveller in this uncivilized region is constantly in danger of being either seized or sold. He is not secure unless one of the natives who is well known, becomes his companion, or

when he can only name the prefect of a mosk at the place where he is going and claims his acquaintance. Yet the robber does not let go his booty on this account; he accompanies his prisoner to the prince or the prefect of the mosk. Now should the traveller be acknowledged by the first as a friend, or by the last as a guest of the deity, the robber contents himself with a small present, which

the prince or the mosk must equally receive at the stranger's departure.'

But the rights of hospitality are held sacred and inviolate. He who has been entertained as a guest among the people is secure and unmolested. But if the stranger wish to prosecute his journey, his last host must accompany him to the next stage, and receive from the chief of the town or village the promise of hospitality, which is a pledge of protection for the life, liberty, and property of the traveller. He who should dare to infringe this hospitable custom, would be put to death, and all his property destroyed.'

Some of the Caucasians are said to pay great attention to their vineyards. The red wine of Gumrah, which is less common, is said to be more prized than all the rest. There are also vineyards in Ischerkai, but the wine is very inferior to that of Gumrah; on the contrary, that tribe has fine arable land. They do not allow dogs to be kept in their villages, and no visitor dares bring a dog with him. They abominate that animal as unclean, and their own vigilance supersedes the necessity of such extraneous aid. Irbscharnul, which lies to the south of Tabasseran, in the province of Kadek or Kasakaidek, contains three thousand families, who are a mixture of Mahommedans and Jews. They are said to live amicably together; the fertility of the soil is exuberant, and the vine shoots spontaneously from every old cleft in the rocks. To the S.W. of Kara Kaidek live 1200 families of a tribe who call themselves Kuwaetschi, (cuirasse makers,) who belong to the most ancient inhabitants of Caucasus. The author exhibits rather an interesting picture of their singular manners and institutions. Such is their character for fidelity and pro bity, that the superabundant treasures of the plundering princes of other tribes is said to be perfectly safe when confided to their custody. They display a superior cleanliness in their rooms, their furniture, and dress; and, after the European manner, they use tables, chairs, bedsteads, knives and forks. They are addicted to trade, but negligent of agriculture. They manufacture guns, pistols, sabres, knives, and breast-plates; and their works in gold and silver are said to be in high repute, and very dear. Their women. excel in embroidery, and they weave carpets, belt-cloaks, and woollen cloths. They do not engage in any predatory incursions, and they never go to war; yet, behind their rocks they are very vigilant and valiant; and the determined resistance which they made set bounds to the victorious pro

« НазадПродовжити »