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bird died; but for some hours she was too worth with the highest rank and suill even to recollect her bird. The Queen preme authority, exemplified in the had one of the same sort which she valued long life of their late Majesties, the extremely, (a weaver bird ;) she took it happy means of deepening that love with her own hands, and while Mrs Dela. ny slept, had the cage brought, and put those family affections, and presery

of home, encouraging the growth of her own bird into it, charging every one not to let it go so near Mrs Delany, as that

ing that attention to the ordinancès she could perceive the change, till she was and the duties of religion for which enough recovered to bear the loss of her our countrymen have been long confirst favourite. This requires no comment, spicuous ainong the nations. , ' And as it speaks strongly for itself.” p. 99, 100. while the example of domestic, social, We have just one extract more to

and religious duty, so long emanating

o from the throne, penetrated through give, and it, too, contains an instance of the Queen's goodness of heart above kindly influence even upon the col

all the ranks in society, till it shed its all praise. This is told by Mrs De

tages of the peasantry, we are sure lany berself.

that the best way to secure and cono The day before I intended to leave firm the effects it has wrought, is to Windsor, when Mary Anne and I were give as wide a circulation as possible set down to our little dinner, one simple to its written record. . po ryt!" dish of veal.collops, without any notice, the Queen walked into the dining-room, and said, I must not be angry with my ser. JOURNAL OP A, VISIT TO HOLLAND. vant; for she would come in, and that my dinner smelt so well, she would partake of

( Concluded from p. 222.) , it with me. I was both delighted and con

Letter XII. .. fused with the honour conferred upon me. Miss Port very readily resigned her place, DEAR J . and became our attendant. The Queen

Amsterdam In my last letter I honoured my humble board, not only by

> gave you some account partaking of it, (which she did to make me Wednesday, a

of the strange custoins go on with my dinner,) but commended it ith my dinner,) but commended it

13th August. whir

som sugas which a short excursion very much. Soon after the clock struck

ck into North Holland enabled me to four, her Majesty said she would resign her place : for she came to see me on pur.

remark ; but these I must still follow pose to prevent my venturing out in the

the out a little further. Finding the evening, lest I should catch cold before my town (Broek) so completely deserted journey.” p. 103, 104. .

that we had only seen a gardener dresThis worthy lady, the object of so

sing some shrubbery, and a woman

who ran hastily from one house to much royal favour, of which she has given so pleasing an account, died on

another, our party expressed to our the 15th day of April 1788. She was

guide a strong wish to enter into some

of the houses and converse with the buried in St James's Church, and a stone was erected to her memory,

people. The guide immediately una

ory, dertook to procure admission into which concludes with these words: the house of the notary or lawyer of

" She was a lady of singular ingenuity the town, where, in courtesy to the and politeness, and of unaffected piety. Emperor Alexander, when he visited These qualities had endeared her through Broek in 1814, he had been permitted life to many noble and excellent persons, to walk out at the sacred door of the and made the close of it illustrious, by pro- shut up room! We were received curing for her many signs of grace and fa

very kindly by the landlady, though vour from their Majesties."

rather against the wishes of her auIn giving these large extracts from stere husband. Upon entering the this epistolary correspondence, we sacred room, she opened a small foldconceive ourselves to have performed ing piece in each of the window shutan important duty to our readers. ters, which shewed a very commodi. From the constitution of our nature, ous apartment, remarkable for its the contemplation of the beauty of cleanliness, and for the antique style virtue is fitted to afford us a very pure and description of the furniture. On and ennobling species of pleasure. Our each side stood an antique glass-case, proneness to imitate the manners and filled, and indeed overloaded, with actions of our superiors must have much curious and valuable Chinamade the union of so much private ware, with silver coffee, tea, and table

equipage.' In particular, there was a ed for this present life, and are not
massive fish-plate, with a golden bot only shut up from the world, but ap-
tom, with a curious silver fish-slice parently from one another, and have
and fork. Every other article in the always before them the emblem of
room was rare or valuable; the care some great change in the state of hu-
pet, for example, was an Indian mat- man life, without, perhaps, deriving
ting, formed of reeds of various có- much comfort from the reflection."
lours. The landlady politely lifted Saardam is, if possible, a greater
one corner of it, and exposed a beau- curiosity than Broek, even in regard
tifully tessellated pavement of Dutch to the retirement of the better sort of
tyle, coloured chocolate and buff. Two houses, their fantastic parterres deco-
or three of these tyles she also lifted, rated with shells, which are painted,
when we saw that they lay upon a having also, in several instances, a
bed of pure white Holland sand. gilded sphere, supported upon a
These she assured us were all lifted, pedestal of shells, descriptive, per
wiped, and laid down again every Sa- haps, of their taste for navigation
turday when the room was cleaned and astronomy. Some of their houses
out. The bed of this room was no are also surrounded with water, to
less a matter of curiosity. The bedwhich you approach by means of a
clothes were folded up and laid aside, wooden draw-bridge. Here the Dutch
while the pillows and bedding might painter is allowed to sport with his
be said to be lying in state. They brush in the deepest tinges of the
appeared to be filled with the very rainbow, in which he is not confined
finest down of the Eider duck, for the to house work, but even extends his
smallest touch of the hand sunk as colours to the shells which decorate
into a fluid substance; the striped their walls, and even to the boughs and
tick in which the down was inclosed branches of their trees.' But this is
was of silk and cotton, or, perhaps, certainly a more interesting place than
wholly of a silk stuff. These, again, Broek, from its being more a com-
were covered with slips of fine lawn mercial town.
cloth, edged all around with Brussels It was in this village that Peter the
lace. Having seen every thing wor- Great resided while in Holland, and
thy of notice in this and the other learned to work as a carpenter; and
rooms, we retired by a back-door the cottage is still shewn in which he
which passes through the kitchen, lodged, with his table and chair, &c.
where we found the landlord smok- Here an album is kept, where strangers
ing his pipe; but he retreated hastily insert their names. Over the chim-
as we approached. This having ra- ney there is painted, on a piece of
ther disconcerted us, we immediate wood,

s, is
ly took leave after returning our best « Neits is den grooten : 1 .. to
thanks to the landlady. - They seem-

Man te klein ;" ed to have no chimney in the kitchen, but burned their turf upon the floor, which is in English, “ Nothing is for on which was laid a plate of cast-iron a great man too little.” This cots for a hearth: this was polished as tage is extremely mean, and being alsmooth and bright as a piece of sil. most wholly of wood, like the other ver. "

houses in Saardam, it has gone much It was impossible to walk through into decay. When the Emperor Alexthis town without feelings of melan- ander was in Holland in 1814, he vi. choly; the whole place seemed as if sited this cottage: and since that a it had been dispossessed, and the small slip of marble has been sunk gloomy aspect of the shut up or sa- into the mantel-piece, with an inscripcred chambers conveyed an idea of tion to this effect: “ Alexander, Em their society, which was quite unin- peror, to Peter the Great." To this viting. Here we naturally observe enigma, if I may be allowed to use that man is a social being, and it is freedom with this royal inscription, certainly a mistaken view of his hap- an explanation has been attempted in piness in this life, to become morose Dutch upon another piece of marble; and distant. Among a happy and but from the translation given us ot cheerful people, the inhabitants of it, it seemed to be little more definite the village of Broek, from their man- than the inscription itself. ners and customs, seem to be ill suit. We visited the church of Saardam,


which is a neat and commodious place much the most interesting day we had of worship; on the roof there is a very spent in Holland ; and I always look large stork's nest, which is not un- back to it with renewed pleasure, common on the churches of Holland, whether I contemplate the variety or and is very generally met with on the strangeness of the objects which atprincipal farm houses. But the most tracted our attention, or think of the surprising thing here is a painting, agreeable society or easy friendship which is stuck up over the altar-piece, either of my honourable friend to representing, if I recollect rightly, the whose party I belonged, or of the portly person of a priest, who has learned and facetious companion with been tossed in the air by a bull, in whom we had that day the pleasure the view of a crowd of spectators; but of being associated. Returning in the the female sexton of the cliurch could evening to Amsterdam, we did not give no distinct or consistent account neglect a bumper in honour of the of the matter. From the top of the birth-day of the Prince Regent. steeple of this church the sight is the


do I now sit down to most extraordinary that is to be met

14th August. nest about Amsterdam,

+ write you in good earwith in Holland, or, perhaps, anywhere. Within the limited boun- where the whole party are again met, dary of the township of Saardam, we and this day has been appointed for were assured that there were not few. seeing the sights of this moist and er than 400 windmills, some grinding languid capital. Our very worthy corn, others sawing timber, others and learned friend the Doctor had becrushing linseed, making paint, &c.; fore been in Amsterdam, and knowand not a few were pumping war ing something of the Dutch language, ter. As it blew a fresh breeze, the he laid out the route for the day, A greater part of them were in motion, coach with wheels was accordingly orwhich, to be sure, was a most sin- dered to attend immediately after gular spectacle. Conceive to yourself breakfast, when we set off with our the formidable appearance that the commissaire on the box, acting as difew windmills at Newcastle had which rector to the coachman. Our first you have seen : another may think of visit was to the Rasp-house, down their appearance at Liverpool :~these a narrow street in a very close and seemed nothing to ine after seeing confined part of the city, where the Amsterdam, where the windmills are carriage was not a little hampered very numerous indeed; but all these by the meeting with one of those most dwindled to nothing on ascending to extraordinary looking carriages withthe top of Saardam steeple, where out wheels, being simply the body of they looked like a mighty forest wav- a coach fixed to two pieces of wood, ing in the air ; and had Сeryantes and drawn by one horse with hempen transported his hero to this field, he traces, without a pole or shafts of any might have been excused in mistaking kind, so that the horse has but an awkthis for the field of Mars, peopled with ward command of the vehicle. To pregiants. It also might have been mis- vent the pieces of wood or sledge on taken for the land of the Naiads, as which it is placed from firing from the the whole country for many miles is friction of the causeway, a small barrel regularly divided into canals of water of water is employed to drop upon the and ridges of land, the water bearing wood by a suitable contrivance, as dethe proportion of fully one-third to scribed at Rotterdam. But more the dry land. These waters are se- generally from the moisture of the parated from the waters of the Zui- streets and the number of canals in derzee, which seem to be about four Amsterdam, the Jager or driver carfeet higher than the surface of the ries along with him a piece of large Saardam waters, and are secured by flat rope, which he occasionally dips means of a regulating lock, which is into the canals, and causes this sledge yery handsomely built with brick, and carriage to pass over it, by which means coped with marble, the front work be- the timber is moistened and the fricing painted in deep red colour, agree. tion for a time destroyed. It has been ably to the Dutch taste. This visit said, that the Dutch long objected to to Broek and Saardam occupied the wheel-carriages at Amsterdam, as the whole day from seven in the morning city is built wholly upon piles, but till five in the afternoon, and was by the truth is, that they are very averse

to the grating noise of a carriage, and crimes; one of these was now under enjoy a degree of placid quiet in confinement upon a third accusation their streets, which is wholly un- for child murder, but the proof had known in England.

hitherto been found incomplete. LastThe Rasp-house is a large prison, ly, we visited the chapel, and met having a very dismal and dirty ap- the parson, who was eighty years of pearance. There are at present in it age, and had been a long time the in168 criminals, who are all kept in five cumbent in this charge. Another set great rooms, with eight cells, into of prisoners are kept here who are not which, however, no person is admit- seen by the public. Here children ted, as in England, where every thing are sometimes confined at the instance is open to the reasonable inspection of of their parents; wives and husbands the public. Those we saw were in are also occasionally confined here, general very stont men, who were upon the complaint of the offended chiefly employed in sawing and rasp. spouse, for minor offences. This es ing dye-woods. There is a low apart- tablishment seems to be under very ment in this prison into which, for good management, but there is a want particular offences,' the prisoner is of system in the classing of offenders, said to be put, and water let in upon and whatever may at one time have him, and where he must continue to been the character of Holland for this work at a pump to prevent the water branch of police, it-now falls far short from rising so as to endanger his life; of England. but for the humanity of the Dutch, We next visited Felix Meritas, an we ascertained that this punishment establishment for scientific purposes, is not at all to the extent which is re- which is supported by subscription. presented, as the water cannot rise The house is large, but of a very clum. more than four feet above the level of sy construction, and seems to be inthe floor, and, indeed, it is rarely or commodiously laid out into classnever inflicted.

rooms for demonstration and experi, The Spin-house was the next placement, and also for painting and sculpof public interest which we visited. ture. Here we saw several good stan Here we were received into the go- tues and casts of the Venus de Medicis, vernor's room, hung round with nų- and the Apollo Belvidere, &c. the merous portraits of the early patrons Laocoon, Egyptian Figures, Hercules, of this charity. This is a kind of &c. which form altogether a very good house of refuge, where beggars are re- collection. But in the department of ceived with their whole families; it experimental philosophy they appear now contains about 700 persons of here, as in Rotterdam, to be far be. both sexes, and of all ages. In one hind some other European capitals. great hall I counted about 160 beds, The Palace, formerly the Stadtin each of which four persons are house, was converted by Bonaparte said to sleep in summer, when there into a mansion-house for his brother is a division put in the middle, but Louis. Externally it is a large mass in the winter, when the house is of square masonry, with numerous full, the board is taken out, and windows, with a common door with. then five persons sleep in one bed. Out any portico, and has consequently They are all dressed in a very simple no attractive elegance beyond its great hempen garb in summer, while in size. On the top of the walls are winter woollen is substituted. The ranged a number of bronzé figures, patients are not admitted into this such as Justice with the Balance, and house for less than a fortnight, but Atlas with the Globe on his shoulders. many are kept in it for years, and the He measures thirteen feet in height; establishment is said to cost the pub- and the globe which he carries is seven lic about 80,000 gilders, or about feet in diameter. In the interior this L. 7000 Sterling per annum. Af- house is decorated with the most ter seeing the working and sleep- sumptuous and magnificent furniture ing wards, we visited the kitchen which Paris could produce, and is at and steward's room, where we saw this dayentirely as it was left by the food of the house, which, Bonaparte ; the only article which has though plain, appeared to be good. been furnished by the present family We next visited a room containing is an additional bed, decorated with forty-four women confined for various blue and orange satin, with a small crib bed for the child of the Prince of of Rotterdam.' We also remarked Orange. Upon expressing some sure here the tomb of the celebrated Ad. prise to the housekeeper at the un- miral de Ruyter, which is splendidly altered state of things, she observed, finished in white marble. that the furniture was all purchased The dock-yard of Amsterdam is with the people's money, and that it considered extensive, when compared was very good. On pointing to a with those of Helvoetsluys and others pane of Bohemian glass measuring in Holland; but nothing which I 18 inches by 16 inches, which was in ever met with tended to give me such one of the principal doors of the pas- an elevated opinion of the importance sage, upon which was written « Pa- and extent of the Daval appointments lais Bonaparte,” she mentioned that it of Great Britain than the recollections had been scratched on it by some of while in this place of Plymouth, the gens d'armes when on guard, and Portsmouth, Sheerness, Chatham, and that it had never been thought worth Deptford. The model-room is excelwhile to remove it! and exclaimed, lent, and presents a very fine display with a cast of her head, “ Tout le of ship-building in miniature. There meme-chose."

is, in particular, the model of a shipBut the chief object of admiration of-war, in a glass case, about seven in this palace is the great marble sa- feet in length, so contrived that it seloon, measuring 130 fect in length, parates, and exhibits a longitudinal 60 feet in breadth, and 100 feet in and also a transverse section of the height, which is wholly lined with ship. The model of the camel, by white marble with blue veins. Upon which the largest ships of Holland are entering this room, the Madame de floated over the shallows of the Zuihotel turning round and curtseying derzee upon a few feet of depth of wa to the party, said, “ Très superbe," ter, is curious. It is a very large maand left us to our meditations; and chine, which may be conceived to be with this observation I am sorry I somewhat analogous to the body of must also leave you, for it is far be two ships. It is scuttled, or water is yond the extent of epistolary descrip- let into it, when the vessel to be cartion, whether it is considered in rem ried over the bar is floated over it. gard to the magnitude and grandeur The water is then pumped out of of its walls and dimensions, or the the camel, when its great buoyancy taste and value of its furniture. lifts the vessel and floats it over the

shallows or bar. There were, be

sides, several very ingenious conLETTER XIII.

trivances connected with naval tacDEAR J

tics, which were very neatly con

structed; and we left this apartThe most striking ment not less gratified at seeing the Utrecht,

features of the large flags of Holland and Britain, &c. en15th August.

saloon in the palace to twined as emblematical of the univerAugust. which I alluded in my sal peace, than with the works we had last, is the immense extent of highly seen. Several ships of war were now finished marble walls, with the statue under repair, particularly the Zeeof Atlas and other figures in pure paard or Seahorse, &c.; but these white marble; but, as I before no- works, we were given to understand, ticed, a description of it would be proceeded very slowly, owing to the greatly beyond the compass of a letter, great repairs which the Minister of Indeed, it has been given to the pub- Marine found necessary for the public in a large volume, with plates.' lic works at this and all the other

We next visited the great church dock-yards, which had been left by contiguous to the palace, which is Bonaparte in a state approaching fast much upon the same kind of cathe- to ruin.. dral design as that of Rotterdam, &c. From the dock-yard we went to Like these, we have here the highly the great china magazine of Henry du carved and ornamental pulpit of oak, Bois, where there is a display of elewith the screen or elegant brass rail, gant wares of all sorts, from a comwhich separates the choir from the plete set of dinner and tea service in nave. Here it is of great weight, but china, with jars of the largest capafalls short in point of elegance to that city, down to the most trifling toys of


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