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. “ I had no idea that height of situation present itself to the traveller's view than could have so severely affected the strength the scenes there witnessed ; and I confessand chest, and yet it must have been this that this was my own idea. Nevertheless, alone, for severe as was the ascent, and it is certain that the character of the moun. bad as the road was, we had met with ful- tains that form the banks of the Bhagirutly as bad days' journeys before; and tee, in the quarter we have passed to-day, though the people asserted that the air was is not only different from that of any yet poisoned by the scent of flowers, and though seen, but marked by features unspeakably there really was a profusion of them more lofty, rugged, and inaccessible. There through the whole of the first part of the is even less of beauty, and more of horror; march, yet the principal part of them had more to inspire dread, less to captivate. no smell, nor could I perceive any thing The variety of character to be met with in in the air except a cold and somewhat raw these mountains, particularly after reacha wind. Besides which, the chief distress ing their more remote and difficult regions, was experienced after we reached the lofty is remarkable; and to a person who has gorge of Bamsooroo, which was beyond only travelled in the lower parts, and seen the region of vegetation, and consequently the better cultivated and more inhabited could not be easily affected by the perfume tracts of the country, scarcely credible. of flowers. After reaching that place no Perhaps a more complete and better markone was proof against this influence. It ed example of this cannot be produced in was ludicrous to see those who had laugh- any purely mountainous country, certainly ed at others yielding, some to lassitude, not in that under consideration, than is ex. and others to sickness, yet endeavouring hibited in the features we see, marking the to conceal it from the rest. I believe I beds of the Sutlej, the Pabur, the Jumna, held out longer than any one ; yet after and the Bhagiruttee. passing this gorce every few paces of as “ The mountains which form the valley cent seemed an insuperable labour, and of the Sutlej, particularly on the northeven in passing along the most level west side, are brown, barren, steep, and places my knees trembled under me, rocky; but they have these characters and at times even sickness at stomach was without the grandeur produced by lofty experienced. The symptoms it produced precipices or fringing wood. The nullahs were various : some were affected with vio- that furrow (them are dark uninteresting lent headache; others had severe pains in chasms, and their breasts in general are the chest, with oppression ; others sickness unenlivened by cultivation; and, though at the stomach and vomiting ; many were their heights are thickly crowned with forts, overcome with heaviness, and fell asleep there are no neat villages surrounded with even while walking along. But what trees, on which the eye may turn and rest proved the fact that all this was the effect from the dark desert around. Such are of our great elevation, was, that as we the Cooloo hills, which met our view from lowered our situation, and reached the re. below Comharsein, even to beyond Seran. gion of vegetation and wood, all these viv. And on the Bischur side, though there may lent symptoms and pains gradually lessen- be somewhat more cultivation above, and ed and vanished. The appearance of the wood yields its verdure here and there to higher cliffs, however, both snowy and embellish the valleys, still the lower parts rocky, and the sensations of this day, of the hills, for a descent of full three miles, proved most satisfactorily, that it would be to the narrow, rocky, and arid bed of the a very arduous undertaking, if not an im.' river, exhibit little except black rock peep. practicable one, to ascend even nearly to ing irregularly through brown burnt grass. the tops of these loftiest hills. We could " The smiling vale of the Pabur offers not have been within several thousand feet a delightful contrast to the black chasm of even those peaks of snow which were through which the Sutlej rolls. We cantolerably near us." p. 449.

not speak of this river very near its source;

but, from a long way beyond the village of Three days' travelling from Jumno- Pooroo, which is seven miles above Raeentree brought Mr Fraser to the banks gudh, it flows meandering through a val. of the Bhagiruttee. He found it al- ley of moderate breadth, in which pasture ready a broad stream, nearly of the and crops are checkered with its different same magnitude with the Sutlej. His streams; and on the banks and roots of picture of the scenery, and parallel the hills, rich cultivation, villages, and view of that on the streams formerly wood, form a lovely picture, which extends visited, seems well to deserve being up.

vain or up the stream as far as the eye can distin

• extracted.

guish, and till brown hills, topped with

snow and rocks, close the prospect. " " From the description given of the na. " If any success has attended the perture and appearance of the banks of the haps too detailed descriptions of the banks Jumna, it may be conceived that nothing and bed of the Jumna, the reader will alwilder or more impracticable could well ready have formed an idea of them : though rocky, precipitous, and wild, they though they would meet at a prodigious are woody, green, and varied with sloping height above. At this point the Bhagirutfaces, which are rich with cultivation and tee is divided into two branches : that verdure. Here and there the river runs which preserves the name descends from through a level though narrow bottom, the eastward, and the other, of a size fully and many well cultivated and beautiful equal, called the Johannevie, joins it from valleys lead into it: even at its source, the north-east. Both these rivers run in though a wilder collection of requisites for chasm3, the depth, narrowness, and ruga romantic and imposing landscape, as ged wildness of which it is impossible to rock, wood, precipice, and snow, could not describe : between them is thrust a lofty well be drawn together, they did not form crag, like a wedge, equal in height and saso truly desert and stern a scene as is ex vage aspect to those that on either side hibited in the bed of the Bhagiruttee. tower above the torrents. The extreme pre

“I have said that these mountains are cipitousness of all these, and the roughness more lofty and bare ; in fact, we had now of their faces, with wood which grows near penetrated fartherinto their higher and more the river side, obstructs the view, and preinclement regions; and the Bhagiruttee, a vents the eye from comprehending the far larger river than the Jumna, has worn whole at a glance ; but still the distant a deeper bed, even in the stubborn mate black cliffs, topped with lofty peaks of rials of their bowels.

snow, are discerned, shutting up the view in ." It is not easy to describe the change either of the three ravines, when the clouds of scene effected by this change of situation : for a moment permit them to appear. not only is luxuriant foliage more rare, all “ Just at the bottom of the deep and rich and lively greers giving way to the dangerous descent, and immediately above dark brown of the fir, which spots the face the junction of these two torrents, an old of the rock, but even that rock is evident. and crazy wooden bridge is thrown across ly more continually acted on by the seve- the Lhayiruttee, from one rock to the rity of the storms. Instead of being co. other, many feet above the stream; and it vered with rich and varied hues, the effect is not till we reach this point that the exof lichens and the smaller herbage, that traordinary nature of the place, and parti. usually clothe and variegate even a preci- cularly of the bed of the river, is fully pice, the rocks here are white, grey, red, comprehended ; and there we see the stream or brown, the colour of their fracture, as in a state of dirty foam, twisting violently, if a constant violence was crumbling them and with mighty noise, through the curito pieces. Their sharp and splintered ously hollowed trough of solid granite, cutpinnacles spire up above the general ting it into the strangest shapes, and leaping mass: their middle region and feet in fearful waves over every obstacle. From are scantily sprinkled with the sombre hence the gigantic features of the mounun varying fir-tree ; while the higher parts, tainis may frequently be seen, overhanging retiring from the view, present little more the deep black glen; their brown splinterthan brown rock, except where a lofty mass ed crags hardly differing in colour from of snow overtops them, and calls to our re- the blasted pines which start from their collection how nearly and completely we fissures and crevices, or even from the dark are surrounded by it. No green smiling foliage of those which yet live.” valleys yield their waters to the river : the

pp. 403, 464. white and foul torrents which swell its stream pour their troubled tribute through The J,hannevie, a stream, the exchasms cleft in the solid rock, or are seen istence of which had not been noticed tumbling down its face, from the snow tliat by any preceding traveller, appears to gives them birth.

have already run a pretty long course, • The whole scene casts a damp on the having risen from a lofty mountain mind : an indefinite idea of desert solitude about fifteen days' journey to the and helplessness steals over it: we are, as north-east, and within the territories it were, shut out from the world, and feel of Chi

o the world, and feel of China. After a most laborious our nothingness."

pp. 456458.

journey along the side of precipices, Here, however, they found a vil- a

il and over immense heaps of loose lage, where they obtained comfortable stones, they reached Gungotree. reruse during the night, and next “ The hills which form between them morning set out for Gungotree. Af- the bed of the river, and which are exceedter travelling six cos, they came to a ingly precipitous and close the whole way spot called Bhyram Ghauttee.

from Bhyramghattee, here recede a little,

and without losing any thing of their sa. This is a very singular and terrible vage grandeur, admit somewhat of a less place. The course of the river has con. confined view, and more of the light of

inued foaming through its 'narrow rocky day. Below Goureecounda, the river falls bed, and the hills approach their heads, as over a rock of considerable height in its bed, and continues tumbling over å suc- time has worn. Thus on all sides is the cession of petty cascades or rapids nearly prospect closed, except in front to the eastthe whole way to Mia nee-ke-Gad,h. A ward, where, from behind a mass of bare bove the debouche of the Kedar Gunga, spires, four huge, lofty, snowy peaks arise ; the bed widens into a small shingly space, these are the peaks of Roodroo-Himala. in which the river rapidly rolls, obviously There could be no finer finishing, no changing its course as the floods direct it. grander close to such a scene. Just at the gorge of this space a bridge has “ We approach it through a labyrinth been thrown across, which is formed of two of enormous shapeless masses of granite, parts, the interior ends of the beams restwhich during ages have fallen from the cliffs ing on a large rock in the centre ; and just above that frown over the very temple, and above the bridge, in a bay formed by à in all probability will some day themselves reach of the river in this shingly space, descend in ruins and crush it. Around the fifteen feet above the stream, is situated inclosure, and among these masses, for the small temple, or mût, dedicated to the some distance up the mountain, a few fine goddess Gunga, or Bhagiruttee." p. 467. old pine trees throw a dark shade, and form

06 The temple is situated precisely on a magnificent foreground; while the river the sacred stone on which Bhagirutte used runs impetuously in its shingly bed, and to worship Mahadeo, and is a small build the stifled but fearful sound of the stones ing of a square shape for about twelve feet which it rolls along with it, crushing to. high, and rounding in, in the usual form gether, mixes with the roar of its waters.” of pagodas, to the top. It is quite plain,

pp. 468, 469. painted white, with red mouldings, and “ We were now in the centre of the stusurmounted with the usual melon-shaped pendous Himala, the loftiest and perhaps ornaments of these buildings. From the most rugged range of mountains in the eastern face of the square, which is turned world. We were at the acknowledged nearly to the sacred source, there is a small source of that noble river, equally an obory projection covered with a stone roof, in ject of veneration and a source of fertility, which is the entrance facing the east, and plenty, and opulence to Hindostan; and just opposite to this there is a small pago- we had now reached the holiest shrine of da-shaped temple to Bhyramjee. The Hindoo worship which these holy hills. whole is surrounded by a wall built of un- contain. These are surely striking consis hewn stone and lime, and the space this derations, combining with the solemn grancontains is paved with flat stones. In this deur of the place, to move the feelings space, too, there is a comfortable but small strongly." p. 469. house for the residence of the Brahmins " This mountain, which is considered who come to officiate. Without the in- to be the loftiest and greatest of the snowy closure there are two or three sheds con- range in this quarter, and probably yields structed of wood, called dhurm sallahs, to none in the whole Himalaya, obtains built for the accommodation of pilgrims who the name of Roodroo Himala, and is held rešort here ; and there are many caves a- to be the throne or residence of Mahadeo round formed by overhanging stones which himself. It is also indiscriminately called yield a shelter to those who cannot find ac- Pauch Purbut, from its five peaks; and commodation in the sheds.

Soomeroo Purbut, which is not to be con“ The scene in which this holy place is founded with the mountain so called near, situated is worthy of the mysterious sanc- Bunderpouch ; and sometimes the gene. tity attributed to it, and the reverence with ral appellation of Kylas is given, which liwhich it is regarded. We have not here terally signifies any snowy hill, but is apthe confined gloominess of Bhyram Gattee : plied to this mountain by way of prethe actual dread which cannot but be in- eminence. It has five paincipal peaks, spired by the precipices, and torrents, and called Roodroo Hinjala, Burrum pooree, perils of the place, here gives way to a Bissenpooree, Dodgurree Kanta, and Soorsensation of awe, imposing but not embar- ga Rounee. These form a sort of semirassing, that might be compared to the circular hollow ot' very considerable extent, dark and dangerous pass to the centre of filled with eternal snow, from the gradual the ruins of a former world ; for, most dissolution of the lower parts of which the truly, there is little here that recals the re- principal part of the stream is generated ; collection of that which we seem to have probably there may be smaller hollows be, quitted. The bare and peaked cliffs which yond the point to the right above Gungoshoot to the skies, yield not in ruggedness tree, which also supply a portion.” or elevation to any we have seen ; their

pp. 470, 471. ruins lie in wild chaotic masses at their feet, and scantier wood imperfectly relieves The rest of Mr Fraser's narrative their nakedness ; even the dark pine more concerns merely his return to the yarcly roots itself in the deep chasms which lower regions of India.

sofa,

.:: THE BYSTANDER. 1

from the pure stream of Helicon..

Sad, silent, and alone, I counted the No. vi.

" weary moments as they passed,"

À interrupted: by no sound save the per i In love or in the gout? I have not been In either, Sir; but I am grieved to tell

tell riodical grunting of Mrs M Naugh. you .

ton, who, to be sure, sat up with me I've had a serious illness. I have been all night, that is to say, bolt upright Three weeks confined to bed, two to the in an old-fashioned easy chair ; the

well stuffed back and sides of which And five to water-gruel :

induced her mind to take its accusa

tomed repose, notwithstanding the And a most uncommon effect these perpendicular position of her body.. restrictions have had; for behold ! on Still some minutes from one! I anxthis, the first day of my sortie from my iously gaze on the watch, marking chamber, I have, burst forth al im- the slow progress of the index. And provvisto into a strain of poesy, as what is to happen at that hour? Why, sublime in sentiment, and not less I am to swallow some stuff that Mrs elevated in diction, than some of the M‘Naughton declares would“ pushen blank verse of the present day; which a horse;" but even this is an incident (I may remark pur parenthèse) looks that breaks the tedium of life. “ Mrs as if good decent prose had become M'Naughton? Janet? deaf old fool ? ashamed of its irregular pace, and be- won't you get up and give me my meing suddenly seized, like other wor- dicine?” – Lordsake! I never heard thy bourgeois, with the desire of sic a noise ; can ye no let a body sleep marching in ranks, had, all at once, in their bed !-Ou, Sir, I beg your, quitted its lounging and careless step, pardon, I forgot whar I wus; I thocht, and left off flinging its arms and legs it was Betty deaving me about someabout in the old easy way, and then, thing: it'l be the medycin ye're wantwithout even thinking it necessary to en?" It is brought; I take a mouthdress itself in poetic uniform, had ful, but as quickly cause it to regurranged itself in measured lines, minc- gitate. “ Woman! what are you ing its steps, and waddling on, with thinking of? This is laudanum you as self-confident an air as if Pope had have given me; I should soon have drilled it. It does not, by any means, slept my last long sleep had I swalcut so good a figure as our bons ci- lowed that.”Eh! *sirs, is't, the toyens do in a similar situation; the lowdenum? did ever ony body see the air poëtique is still more wanting in like o' that! I canna say but Dr the one, than the air militaire is in has muckle need o' a quarter o'. Mr the other.

M‘Kean; sic yritin ! it's out o' the And now, having concluded this poor o'nature to read it.” Meditat opening digression, I must accounting on this narrow escape from death, for my non-appearance. last month, I again lay my head on the warm and Reader, hast thou ever had a fever ? clammy pillow, which no kind hand Thou hast : then my apology is made. has shaken for me; and, in a few miArt thou an old bachelor ? then wilt nutes, the nasal tones of my alniost thou know and pity my sufferings. murdress come at measured intervals Art thou a married man ? then learn upon my ear. When one lies awake in to be thankful for the blessings thou bed, if he be neither a poet nor a lover, enjoyest. Art thou none of all these ? he can do nothing but make moral Come, then, listen to the accumulat- reflections, and repeat wise saws. ed horrors of a bachelor's sick-room ; “ Man,” said I, “'is — ," and and let them teach thee to quit thy here a thousand similes obtruded solitary state before the evil days themselves. I remember reading an come, and the years draw nigh, in old epitaph in some church yard, that which thou shalt say thou hast no gives the sense and substance of them pleasure in them.”

all : Night thoughts may be vastly plea

Man is a vapour, sant to a poet, who lies measuring feet, or stringing rhymes together;

Full of woes ;

He cuts a caper, but they are far otherwise to a poor

? And down he goes." ;** sick solitary, whose mixtures are not Sapphic and Adonian, nor his draughts “Man,” continued I, after having

repeated the above elegant distich, ing; and many hours must yet elapse "man is the only animal who knows ere it is time to take the meagre breakthe right, and chooses the wrong; all fast Dr - - allows me. An hour," others implicitly follow the dictates says some wise man, “ may be tediof instinct; he, in many cases, acts ous, but it cannot be long;" very sacontrary to the suggestions of reason. pient this; and very little to the purSometimes he is led astray by pas- pose. Although four hours consist sion; sometimes indolence detains but of two hundred and forty minutes, him in the wrong path; sometimes yet to him who spends those four there conscience pulled the check- hours in tracing maps and landscapes string) procrastination deters him in the wavy figures of moreen curfrom taking the right one. More tains, an employment which the inthan six months have elapsed since I creasing light renders less and less obtruded myself on the notice of the practicable, each minute seems five. public, with the avowed intention of At last nine o'clock comes, and with warning them against the dangers at- it ends Mrs M‘Naughton's slumbers, tendant on this last mentioned error, who takes usury for the time lent duand I have begun by giving an ex- ring the night. The long wished-for ample of the fault I meant to repro- breakfast, some indescribable slop, is bate. I have done with my oppor- at length brought; but ah ! like other tunities as we do with the gifts of for- earthly pleasures, I find it deceitful; tune, amused myself with the meanis, what was anticipated with anxiety, is and neglected the ends for which they now rejected with dislike. An imwere bestowed. Oh! I could tell measurable gulf lies between this them, from bitter experience, that Mr and dinner-time: fortunately a few Day's house * was not a more bungled confused and broken slumbers occupy piece of workmanship, than is the life part of the time. I awake, and find of him who lives without plan. I myself sole tenant of the apartment. could call them to the bed-side of the No sound is heard save the ticking of old bachelor, and bid then behold the clock, which seems increased to what is the end thereof. The end of an unnatural loudness. Hark! the all this is indeed death; the death of stillness is broken by distant sound of feeling the death of interest. He mirth and laughter, proceeding from who sees growing around him the the servants' hall. The report, like heirs of his name, his virtues, and that of a gun in a lone valley, startles perhaps even of his foibles and pecu- the inhabitants of the upper regions. liarities, lives until he draws his last Forth issues Mrs M‘Naughton from breath ; but the solitary individual, an adjoining apartment, and perching unconnected by the tender tie of pa- at the head of the stairs, exerts her rent with any of the new inhabitants stentorian voice. " What an a noise of the world, is dead long ere he ex- is that ye're makin, ye senseless haverpires; or, at least, wanders alone, a ells ? Is that a way to gang on, an' shrivelled relique of the last generat your maister lyin' deein' here? for tion.”

it's no my opinion he's ever to get Whilst I amuse myself with such muckle better.”—“ Mrs reflections, old Time hobbles on, seem- maid wishes to speak with you, Mrs ing to have left off entirely the use of M‘Naughtor.” — “ Aweel, let her his wings. At length the expiring come to the stair-fit; I canna be leava candle sinks into the socket; and ing my maister every ring that comes after a few ineffectual struggles to to the door.”—“Mrs

says preserve its waning life, it dies; fit a pert English tongue, “ desires to emblem of the being it has lighted a know particularly how Mr M--little way on his passage to the tomb. is?"-"Gi'e my compliments to your The dawn of a new morning sends a mistress, my woman, and tell her he's feeble light through the shaded win- no ony better the day, but rather dow.

waur, I think.”—Comfortable bulle

tin for an invalid to overhear! Man has another day to swell the past, And lead him near to little but his last.

Dinner-time comes. I feel rather

better to-day; and, for the first time, Butan August morning isalong morn. my appetite returns with keenness and

vigour: but Dr - - still rigorous* See Edgeworth's Memoirs. ly prohibits the use of animal food.

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