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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Arrive at Hong-kong — Excitement on the arrival of the mail —
Centipede boats — Bay of Hong-kong by moonlight — Town of
Victoria — Its trees and gardens — Mortality amongst the troops
— Its cause — A remedy suggested — Sail for Shanghae — Its
importance as a place of trade — New English town and shipping
— The gardens of the foreign residents .... Page 1

CHAPTER II.

My object in coming north — Difficulty in procuring tea-plants — No
dependence can be placed upon the Chinese — Adopt the dress of
the country — Start for the interior — Mode of getting my head
shaved — City of Kea-hing-foo and its old cemetery — Lakes and
"ling "— Mode of gathering the ling — Great silk country —
Increase in exports — City of Seh-mun-yuen — Fear of thieves —
Hang-chow-foo — The "Garden of China"—Description of the
city and its suburbs — Gaiety of the people — Adventure in the
city — Kan-du — A "chop"—A Chinese inn—I get no breakfast
and lose my dinner — Boat engaged for Hwuy-chow — Importance
of Hang-chow both for trading and "squeezing " . . .19

CHAPTER III.

Leave Hang-chow-foo — A China passage-boat — Scenery and natural
productions — Remarkable hills — Our fellow-passengers — A
smoker of opium — I am discovered to be a foreigner—City of
Yen-chow-foo — A Chinaman cheats a Chinaman !—The river and
water-mills — Botany of the country — A valuable palm-tree —
Birds — Lime-kilns and green granite — Tea-plant met with —
The new Funeeeal Cypeess discovered — Its beauty — How its
seeds were procured—Dr. Lindley's opinion of its merits—Strange
echo — River and land beggars—Charity . . . Page 45

CHAPTER IV.

City of Weeping — Threatened attack from boatmen — A false alarm
— A border country and a border guard — Enter the district of / y
Hwuy-chow — The tea-plant and other crops — A Chinese play — /
Ferry-boat and ladies — Cargo transshipped — Two coffins below
my bed — A mandarin's garden — Botany of the hills — A new
plant (Berberis japonica)—My servant's advice—Leave the boat—
The opium-sinoker outwitted—Town of Tun-che—Its importance
in connection with the tea-trade — Features of country, soil, and
productions — First view of Sung-lo-shan .... 67

CHAPTER V.

Sung-lo-shan — Its priests and tea — Its height above the sea — Rock
formation — Flora of the hills — Temperature and climate —
Cultivation of the tea-shrub — Mode of preserving its seeds — The
young plants—Method of dyeing green teas—Ingredients employed
— Chinese reason for the practice — Quantity of Prussian blue and
gypsum taken by a green-tea drinker — Such teas not used by
the Chinese — Mr. Warrington's observations . .86

CHAPTER VI.

My reception in the house of Wang's father — A smoky Chinese
cottage — My coolie and the dwarf — The dangers to which they
had been exposed — Chinese mode of warming themselves on a
cold day — Tea-seeds, &c, obtained — Anecdote of the new
Jierberis — Obtain some young plants of it — Deceitful character
of the Chinese — Leave the far-famed Sung-lo-shan—Wang tries
to cheat the chairmen — Invents a story of a "great general "—
Leave Tun-che — Mountain scenery — Pleasure of going down the
river — Gale of wind amongst the mountains—Arrive at Nechow—■
Shaou-hing-foo — Tsaou-o—Pak-wan — Arrive at Ning-po . %

CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER VII.

Kintang or Silver Island — its inhabitants and productions — Bay of
Chapoo—Advantages of an inland route —New year at Shanghai —
Flower-shops and flowers—Sacred bamboo—The Chrysanthemum
—Mode of cultivating it—Weather-prophets — Sail forHong-kong
—A game-ship — The Enkianthus — Canton seeds, and mode of
packing them — False notion regarding their being poisoned

Page 115

CHAPTER VIII.

Foo-chow-foo — Jealousy of the mandarins — A polite way of getting
rid of a spy — Scenery amongst the mountains — Temple of Koo-
shan — Its priests and idols — Buddha's tooth and other relics —
Trees and shrubs — City of Foo-chow-foo — Chinese mode of getting
out when the gates are shut — Journey up the Min — Chinese
sportsmen and their dogs — A deer-hunt — Scenery about Tein-
tung—Wild flowers—Roadside temples—The bamboo — A priest
and siphon — Lakes of Tung-hoo 133

CHAPTER IX.

Leave Ning-po for the Bohea mountains — My guides — A flag and its
history — The Green River again — Spring scenery on its banks —
Yen-chow and Ta-yang — A storm in a creek — Boatwomen — A
Chinese Mrs. Caudle and a curtain lecture — Natural productions

— Funereal cypress and other trees — Our boat seized for debt and
the sail taken away — A Chinese creditor — Town of Nan-che —
Its houses, gardens, and trade—Vale of Nan-che — Productions
and fertility — City of Chu-chu-foo — Moschetoes and Moscheto
"tobacco "— Arrive at Chang-shan 159

CHAPTER X.

City of Chang-shan and its trade — Land journey — My chair and
chair-bearers — Description of the road — Trains of tea coolies —
Roadside inns — Boundary of two provinces — Dinner at a Chinese
inn — Value of the chopsticks — Adventure with two Canton men

— City of Yuk-shan — Its trade and importance — Quan-sin-foo —
My servant speculates in grass-cloth — A Chinese test of respecta-
bility — Description of the country and its productions — Arrive at
the town of Hokow 182

b

CHAPTER XL

Town of Hokow — Its situation, trade, and great importance — Bohea
mountain chair — Mountain road — Beggars by the wayside —
Beautiful scenery — the priest and his bell — Town of Yuen-shan

— Appearance of the road — Tea coolies — Different modes of
carrying the tea-chests — Large tea-growing country — Soil and
plantations — My first night in a Chinese inn — Reception — Dirty
bed-rooms — I console myself, and go to dinner . . Page 19V

CHAPTER XII.

First view of the Bohea mountains — Mountain pass—A noble fir-
tree—Its name and history—Flora of the mountains—New plants

— Source of the river Min — Entertainment for man and beast —
A rugged road and another pass—A gale amongst the mountains—
An amusing old China-woman — Sugar and tea-spoons — A kind
landlord — The Tein-sin—Arrive at the city of Tsong-gan-hien —
Its situation, size, and trade — Tea-farms .... 208

CHAPTER XIII.

Woo-e-shan — Ascent of the hill -— Arrive at a Buddhist temple —
Description of the temple and the scenery — Strange rocks — My
reception — Our dinner and its ceremonies — An interesting con-
versation — An evening stroll — Formation of the rocks — Soil —
View from the top of Woo-c-shan — A priests' grave — A view by
moonlight—Chinese wine—Cultivation of the tea-shrub — Chains
and monkeys used in gathering it — Tea-merchants — Happiness
and contentment of the peasantry 223

CHAPTER XIV.

Stream of "nine windings"—ATaouist priest—His house and temple

— Du Halde's description of these hills — Strange impressions of
gigantic hands on the rocks — Tea-plants purchased—Adventure
during the night — My visitors — Plants packed for a journey —
Town of Tsin-tsun and its trade—Leave the Woo-e hills—Moun-
tain scenery — The lance-leaved pine — Rocks, ravines, and water-
falls—A lonely road—Trees—Birds and other animals—Town of
She-pa-ky—Productions of the country — Uses of the Nelumbium

— Pouching teas — City of Pouching-hien .... 240

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