arrived was a holiday, and a scene presented itself such as I had never before witnessed.

The town was on the opposite bank. Two rivers unite here, and the town was built between them just at their junction. One of the rivers was nearly dry, and its bed was now used for the purpose of giving a grand fête. The bank where we were was probably about 150 or 200 feet above the bed of the river, so that we had a capital view of what was going on below us.

The first and most prominent object which caught my eye was a fine seven-storied pagoda, forty or fifty feet high, standing on the dry bed of the river; near to it was a summer-house upon a small scale, gaudily got up, and supposed to be in a beautiful garden. Artificial figures of men and women appeared sitting in the verandahs and balconies, dressed in the richest costumes. Singing birds, such as the favourite wame and canaries, were whistling about the windows. Artificial lakes were formed in the bed of the river, and the favoured Nelumbium appeared floating on the water. Everything denoted that the place belonged to a person of high rank and wealth.

At some little distance a theatre was erected, in front of which stood several thousands of the natives, packed as closely as possible, and evidently highly interested in a play which was going on. Sometimes the piece appeared so pathetic that the immense multitude were perfectly still; at other times something seemed to tickle their fancies, and to afford them the greatest amusement. The actors on

the stage were very gaily dressed in rich silks and satins of many colours, and evidently did their best to afford amusement to this immense audience.

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Such was the scene presented to us as we approached the town. 'Come," said all my fellow passengers, "come and see the play;" and they set off as fast as they could to a bridge a little higher up the river, by which they could reach the town and the place where the festivities were going on. I was quite satisfied with the view I had of the whole scene from the opposite bank, and therefore declined the invitation to go nearer. The old dwarf, whom I have already mentioned, and who had taken every opportunity in his power to show his good will, volunteered to remain with me and my two servants. We sat down on the green grass, and had an excellent view of the whole proceedings. The Chinese never seemed to tire, and would have remained there all day; but as our boat would pass up the other branch of the river, it was necessary for us to get to it. We therefore crossed the bridge, and passed through the centre of the town. No one seemed to have the slightest idea that I was a foreigner; indeed, the poor old dwarf attracted far more attention than of us. I did not remark anything of interest in this town, except some large tea-hongs and carpenters' shops, where tea-chests were being made.

any

When we had passed through this place and reached the other branch of the river, we entered a ferry-boat, and crossed over to the other side. Amongst the ferry-boat passengers were two very

pretty and handsomely dressed young ladies, with whom I was greatly amused. When they came into the boat they seated themselves quietly by my side, and began chatting to each other in high spirits. I could not help contrasting their conduct with that of any of their countrywomen at the five ports where foreigners are permitted to trade. Respectably dressed females always fly from foreigners as they would do from a wild and ferocious animal. Had these pretty damsels known that a "barbarian" was seated at their side, how astonished and frightened they would have been!

About evening, just before dark, the boat arrived and lay abreast of the town during the night. All the men now applied for leave to go on shore to see the play. Some of them appeared very anxious that I should go with them, but, being quite contented with the adventures of the day, I declined the invitation. It was very late before they all came back; but this did not prevent us from getting under way at the usual time next morning and proceeding on our journey.

After we had gone some distance the head boatman came round and informed the passengers that it would be necessary to engage another boat to take part of his cargo, as the river was too shallow to allow him to get up so deeply laden as he was. Moreover, he coolly proposed that the expenses of the second boat should be defrayed by the passengers, giving as his reason that by this means they would get sooner to their destination. As the sum was not

a large one, this was agreed to, and a second boat was engaged.

A circumstance now occurred which astonished me not a little at the time, although it must be a common thing in the country. When the second boat was brought alongside, and the floor of our cabin taken up to get at the cargo, I found that we had some fellow-passengers which I had never calculated upon. Two enormous coffins, each containing the body of a Chinaman, had been lying directly under my bed for the last three weeks without my having the least suspicion of the fact. It was, perhaps, just for the knowledge of

as well that this was the case, the circumstance would not have added to my comfort, and might have made me sleep less soundly. These coffins were now removed to the other boat, in which they were taken onwards to their last restingplace. On inquiring, I found that the deceased were natives of Hwuy-chow-foo, and had left their native country some years before to reside at Hang chow, where they had died. Their friends were now taking their remains back to their own land, to be buried in the graves of their ancestors.

On the following day, while walking on shore with some of the other passengers, we came to a village in which there was a celebrated garden and temple belonging to a family of high rank and influence in the country. The head of the family himself had died a short time before, but the place was still kept up in excellent style. It seemed to be open to the public, and we determined to go and see it.

The place had no pretensions to what in England would be called a fine garden; but it was evidently considered unique by the Chinese in this part of the country. Small square courts were seen here and there, ornamented with rockwork, and planted with the favourite flowers of the district. The fragrant olive, moutan, sacred bamboo (Nandina domestica), and other common shrubs, were met with in great abundance. Some pretty ponds were filled with the favourite water-lily. But the most interesting plant of all was a new evergreen holly, with leaves somewhat like the Portugal laurel, very handsome and ornamental.* Amongst the buildings there was a pretty small pagoda, which we ascended, and from its top had an excellent view of the surrounding country. The whole place had evidently been laid out for the purpose of giving plays and fêtes on an extensive scale. Summer-houses, ornamental towers, balconies, and ancestral temples, were scattered over the grounds. The tout ensemble had an imposing appearance, and was just such as the Chinese most admire. Guides. conducted us through the place in the same way as at the show-houses in England, and also expected to be paid for their services. The resemblance went a little further, for we were passed on from one guide to another, and each had to be paid.

On the hill sides in this part of the country I met with many plants which are rare in other parts of China, at least on the hills nearer to the sea. fragrant Chimonanthus, which is now such a favourite

* Seeds of this were procured here and sent home to England.

The