we had anchored during the night, we proceeded on our journey on the morning of the 31st of October. After going a short distance we came to a wild-looking part of the hills where there was a most curious and distinct echo, called by the Chinese Fung-shu. The boatmen and passengers amused themselves by yelling and uttering strange sounds at the highest pitch of their voices; these were taken up and distinctly repeated again and again, first by the nearest hills, and then by others more distant, until they gradually died away. The Chinese have strange prejudices and opinions about this place. They told me that the spirits of men after death often chose to dwell amidst this wild and beautiful scenery; and they said it was they that now repeated these sounds, and echoed them from hill to hill.

As the day wore on we came to one of those rapids which were so difficult to pass, and observed a great number of small boats waiting for and visiting all the larger ones as they came up. These were river beggars. Each of them had a very old man or woman on board, whose hair in most instances was whitened with age, and who was evidently in a state of imbecility and second childhood. They all expected alms from the boatmen who arrived from the rich towns of the east near the sea. The Chinese, to their honour, revere and love old age. It was said that a celebrated English admiral was once in danger of an attack from the Canton mob, but the moment he lifted his hat and showed his gray hairs they drew back and allowed him to pass on unmo

F

lested. Be this as it may, it is certain that they

revere and love old age

age and

gray

hairs.

It was a custom with the boatmen every morning

to set aside a small

some.

portion of rice in a bamboo cup

to give to the poor. Hence the beggars were generally successful in their applications; indeed, it was a most difficult matter to get rid of them otherwise, for they were most importunate and even troubleWe were visited by so many that the boatman often complained of his inability to give more than an ounce or two of rice to each, and appealed to them on the subject. But unless the whole of the contents of the bamboo cup was emptied into the basket held out, the mendicants made a great noise, and complained that they had been deprived of their due.

Sometimes the river was so shallow and so full of stones that the only passage for boats was close in shore. The land beggars knew these places well, and always took their stations there. Each was provided with a basket suspended from the point of a bamboo pole, which he held out to the boatman and asked for alms. These landsmen were quite as importunate as their brethren in the boats, and were generally as successful in their applications.

I was not aware until now that the lower orders in China-such as these boatmen-were so charitable. Few of the beggars-and "their name was legion" were sent away without "an alms." It might be that, ignorant and idolatrous as these boatmen were, they had yet some idea that a blessing would result from "casting their bread upon the waters."

CHAPTER IV.

City of Wae-ping-Threatened attack from boatmen A false alarm

A border country and a border guard - Enter the district of Hwuy-chow The tea-plant and other crops A Chinese playFerry-boat and ladies Cargo transshipped

Two coffins below

A new

my bed - A mandarin's garden - Botany of the hills plant (Berberis japonica) - My servant's advice - Leave the boat -The opium-smoker outwitted Town of Tun-che Its importance in connection with the tea-trade Features of country, soil, and productions First view of Sung-lo-shan.

On the evening of the 31st of October we reached Wae-ping. It is a city of considerable size, walled and fortified, and probably contains 150,000 inhabitants. This place is just on the borders of the district of Hwuy-chow.

The dispute between Wang and the boatman had not been forgotten, and the latter considered this a fitting time to have his revenge. During the last two days he had been hinting to some of the passengers that he intended doing something at Waeping. These men duly reported to Wang what had been told them, and he began to be very much frightened. The rest of the Chinamen, with whom

he

was no favourite, seemed to enjoy his fears, and did everything in their power to exaggerate the dangers to which he had exposed himself. He had had several disputes with them also during the journey, and nearly the whole of them bore him a grudge.

Things were in this very unsatisfactory state when we reached the city of Wae-ping.

It was about eight o'clock in the evening, and quite dark, when we moored our boat close under the city walls. The boatmen went on shore, as they did every evening when we happened to stop near a town. One or two of their number, who had been left to take care of the boat, tired with the labours of the day, lay down to sleep, and the greater part of the passengers followed their example. I now observed my two men in close conversation, but as this was a matter of frequent occurrence I paid little attention to the matter. Tired with my day's rambles, I lay down upon my bed, and allowed my thoughts to wander to far distant lands.

My meditations were gradually merging into dreams when I felt a hand touch me, and a voice, which I knew to be Wang's, informed me that I must not go to sleep. When I asked the reason, he informed me that he had just discovered that the boatmen had entered into a conspiracy against us, and that we were all to be drowned that night in the river. "They have now gone into the town to get some of their friends to assist them," said he, "and they are only waiting until they think we are fast asleep."

I scarcely knew what to think of the business. We were now about three hundred miles from either Shanghae or Ning-po, the night was very dark, and if the threatened attempt should be made we had little chance of receiving any assistance from others. But I could

not allow myself to believe that in the interior of this country, where the people were generally quiet and harmless, an act of the kind could be committed with impunity. I therefore did not get up as Wang wished, but told him that I should take care to remain awake.

The city of Wae-ping stands on the high banks of the Hwuy-chow river. One of the gates was visible to us owing to a blaze of light thrown over it by the torches and lanterns of the Chinese. An inclined plane, which formed the road, reached from the river up to the gate, and was visible from the boat. As all the Chinese carry lanterns, it was easy for us to see those who came out of the city and descended towards the river. The evening, although dark, was perfectly still, so that the slightest noise could be distinctly heard at a considerable distance. At last the city gate opened, and about a dozen men came out, each carrying a lantern, and descended the hill towards the boat. "Get up, get up! quick, quick!" said my servant, "for here they come." I jumped up immediately, and waited for the threatened attack with all the composure I could command. My two Chinamen appeared in a state of great alarm, and kept as close to me as they possibly could. At last the foremost man in the band approached, and, jumping lightly on board, peeped in at the door of our boat. "Hilloa! what do you want?" cried both of my men at the same time. The fellow gave a grin, said he did not want us, and jumped from our boat to another which lay alongside. His companions also