Hong-le, but what a Hong-le was, was beyond my comprehension.

To carry out my own principles and trust to circumstances seemed to be the only way of proceeding, and I gave myself very little uneasiness about the result. At length I heard the men say that here was the Hong-le, and, as I was about to look and see what this might be, the chair was set down, and it was intimated to me that we had reached the end of the journey. Greatly to my surprise and pleasure I now found that this Hong-le was a quiet and comfortable Chinese inn, which was frequented by passengers from all parts of the country. Getting out of my chair, I walked quietly up to the farther end of the large hall, and began to look amongst a number of packages which were heaped up there for my own luggage. I had seen nothing of either that or my servants since I left the former inn. It had arrived, however, quite safely, having been sent on by a coolie before me, and in a few minutes my two men also made their appearance.

We now informed the innkeeper that we wanted to go up the river to Hwuy-chow, and made inquiries regarding a boat. We soon found that it was part of his trade to give "chops," or to "secure" boatmen. Everything is done upon this plan in China. When a servant is engaged, or a boat hired, it is always necessary for the said servant or boatman to produce some respectable householder, who for a certain sum becomes bound for him in a written "chop" or agreement. This "chop" is handed over

to the master of the servant, or to the hirer of the boat, who retains it until his contract is satisfactorily fulfilled. This system is practised universally amongst the Chinese, who seem to have no faith in the lower orders of the people.

I quickly despatched Wang to look after a boat, and desired him to bring the boatman with him to the inn, to have his agreement drawn up and signed. The other man ran out along with him, and I was again left in a strange place amongst strangers.

At

The inn in which I was located was a large old building, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Green River. All the lower part formed a sort of shed or warehouse, which was filled with goods of various kinds and the luggage of passengers. the upper end of this apartment a table was placed in the middle of the floor, and served for the host and his guests to dine upon. Around this table were sitting five or six respectable-looking Chinese merchants smoking from long bamboo pipes, and discussing the news of the day and the state of trade. These men politely made way for me at the table. I took the seat offered, and to be neighbour-like commenced smoking as fast as any of them. In other parts of the warehouse the servants of these men, and other travelling servants, were lolling about, or sound asleep upon the chairs or goods. No one seemed to take any particular notice of me, and I soon sat perfectly at my ease.

A little incident happened which gave me some uneasiness at the time, but at which I have often had

a good laugh since. Preparations began to be made for dinner, and the travellers who were seated around the table arose and wandered about the other parts of the house. It was mid-day, and, as I had eaten no breakfast, I felt rather hungry. In these circumstances it may be thought that the appearance of dinner would have afforded me some pleasure. This, however, was not the case, and for the following reason: I had not eaten with chop-sticks for three years, and I had no confidence in my talents in the use of them. This important circumstance had not struck me before, otherwise I would have practised all the way from Shanghae to Hang-chow, and might have been proficient by this time. As it was I was quite certain that I should draw the eyes of the Chinamen upon me, for nothing would astonish them so much as a person using the chop-sticks in an awkward manner. I was therefore obliged, reluctantly I confess, to abandon all ideas of a dinner on that day.

Meanwhile the dishes were placed upon the table, and the guests were called by their names and requested to sit down. "Sing Wa, Sing Wa" (the name I bore amongst the Chinese), "come and sit down to dinner." I felt much inclined to break my resolution and sit down, but prudence came to my aid, and I replied, "No, I thank you, I shall dine by and by, when my servants come back." I believe it is common enough for travellers to dine at different hours and in different ways, according to circumstances, so that my refusal did not seem to attract much notice.

A short time afterwards my servants returned, bringing a boatman with them to have a chop made out, and to have him "secured" by the innkeeper. As soon as this was done to our satisfaction we left the inn and walked down to the boat, which lay alongside of one of the wharfs at the river side. Several other passengers had also arrived, and we were all to sleep on board, as the boat was to start at daybreak on the following morning. To me this had been an exciting and adventurous day, and I was not when the darkness closed around us and we all retired to rest.

sorry

The river Tcien-tang-kiang, on which I was now, has its sources far away amongst the mountains to the westward. One of its branches rises amongst the green-tea hills of Hwuy-chow, another near to the town of Changshan, on the borders of Kiang-see, and a third on the northern side of the Bohea mountains. These streams unite in their course to the eastward, and, passing Hang-chow, fall into the bay which bears the same name. All the green and black tea comes down this river on its way to Shanghae, and at Hang-chow is transhipped from the river-boats into those which ply upon the Grand Canal. The importance of Hang-chow-foo, in a mercantile point of view, is therefore very great. All goods from the south and westward must of necessity pass through this town on their way to the large and populous districts about Soo-chow, Sung-kiang, and Shanghae. In the same manner all foreign imports, and the products of the low countries, such as silk and cotton, in

going to the southward and westward, must also pass through Hang-chow. It therefore appears to be like a great gate on a public highway, through which nothing can pass or repass without the consent and cognizance of the authorities.

The power which this place gives the Chinese authorities over our imports and exports through Shanghae is very great, and hence complaints of stoppages and illegal charges, or "squeezes," have been not unfrequent. The day cannot be very far distant when we shall be allowed to trade and travel in China as in other countries-when all those foolish regulations regarding boundary-lines will be swept away; but, in the event of these changes being gradual, it may be a question whether our Government should not endeavour to open the town of Hang-chow-foo, or at all events have a consular agent there for the encouragement and protection of our trade.