ment, as well as of many of the great merchants. It has been remarked not unfrequently, when comparing the towns of Shanghae and Ning-po, that the former is a trading place, and the latter a place of great wealth. Hang-chow-foo has both these advantages combined. Besides, it is a fashionable place, and is to the province of Chekiang what Soo-chow-foo is to Kiang-nan. Du Halde quotes an old proverb which significantly says that "Paradise is above, but below are Soo-chow and Hang-chow."

The walls of this terrestrial paradise are said to be forty le in circumference, that is, about eight English miles. Although there are a great many gardens and open spaces inside, yet the extent of the city is very great, and in many parts the population is most dense. The suburbs also are very extensive, and must contain a very large population. Sir George Staunton supposed that the population of the city and suburbs was equal to that of Peking, and Du Halde estimates it at a million of souls.

The houses bear a striking resemblance to those of Ning-po, Soo-chow, and other northern towns. Were I set down blindfolded in the main street of one of these Chinese towns, even in one which I knew well, and the bandage removed from my eyes, I should have great difficulty in saying where I was. There are doubtless distinctions with which the “barbarian" eye is unacquainted, but which would be plain enough to a Chinese.

I observed in many parts of the city triumphal arches, monuments to great men, and gorgeous-look

ing Buddhist temples; but although these buildings have a certain degree of interest about them, and many of them are certainly curious, yet as works of art they are not to be compared with the buildings of the same class which one meets with at home.

The shops in the main streets have their fronts entirely removed by day, so that the passenger may have an opportunity of seeing and of forming a good idea of the wares which are for sale. I observed many shops where gold and silver ornaments and valuable Jade stone were exposed for sale. Old curiosity shops were numerous, and contained articles of great value amongst the Chinese, such as ancient porcelain jars, bronzes, carved bamboo, jars cut out of the beautiful Jade stone, and a variety of other things of like description. I observed some large silk-shops as I passed along, and, judging from the number of people in the town who wear silk dresses, they must have a thriving trade. Everything, indeed, which met the eye, stamped Hang-chow-foo as a place of wealth and luxury. As usual in all the Chinese towns which I have visited, there were a vast number of tea and eating houses for the middle classes and the poor. They did not seem to lack customers, for they were all crowded with hundreds of natives, who, for a few cash or "tseen," can obtain a healthy and

substantial meal.

Besides the officers of Government, merchants, shopkeepers, and common labourers connected with any of these professions, the city contains a large manufacturing population. Silk is the staple article

of manufacture. Du Halde estimates the numbers engaged in this operation at sixty thousand. I observed a great number employed in the reeling process, and others were busily engaged with the beautiful embroidery for which this part of China is so famous.

The people of Hang-chow dress gaily, and are remarkable amongst the Chinese for their dandyism. All except the lowest labourers and coolies strutted about in dresses composed of silk, satin, and crape. My Chinese servants were one day contrasting the natives of Hang-chow in this respect with those of the more inland parts from which they came. They said there were many rich men in their country, but they all dressed plainly and modestly, while the natives of Hang-chow, both rich and poor, were never contented unless gaily dressed in silks and satins. "Indeed," said they, "one can never tell a rich man in Hang-chow, for it is just possible that all he possesses in the world is on his back."

When we were about half way through the city the chairmen set me down, and informed me that they went no farther. I got out and looked round for my servants, from whom I expected an explanation, for I had understood that the chairmen had been paid to take me the whole way through. My servants, however, were nowhere to be seen-they had either gone some other road, or, what was more probable, had intentionally kept out of the way in case of any disturbance. I was now in a dilemma, and did not clearly see my way out of it. Much to

my surprise and pleasure, however, another chair was brought me, and I was informed that I was to proceed in it. I now understood how the business had been managed. The innkeeper had intrusted the first bearers with a sum of money sufficient to hire another chair for the second stage of the journey. Part of this sum, however, had been spent by them in tea and tobacco as we came along, and the second bearers could not be induced to take me on for the sum which was left. A brawl now ensued between the two sets of chairmen, which was noisy enough; but as such things are quite common in China, it seemed, fortunately for me, to attract but little notice. The situation in which I was now placed was rather critical, and far from an enviable one. Had it been known that a foreigner was in the very heart of the city of Hang-chow-foo, a mob would have soon collected, and the consequences might have been serious.

"Take things coolly and never lose your temper" should be the motto of every one who attempts to travel in China. This is always the best plan, for, if you allow things to take their course, ten to one you will get out of a dilemma like that in which I was now placed; but if you attempt to interfere, you will probably make matters worse. These were the principles on which I generally acted; but in the present instance I was not allowed to carry them out to their fullest extent.

I had taken my seat in the second chair, and was patiently waiting until such time as the first men

could give the second satisfactory reasons for spending part of their cash in tea and tobacco. The first notice, however, which I received of the unsuccessful result of this attempt, was an intimation that I was to be ejected from the chair. I knew this would not do, as from my imperfect knowledge of the language I might have some difficulty in finding another conveyance, and I did not know one foot of the way which I was going. I was therefore obliged to inquire into the dispute, and put an end to it by promising to pay the difference when we arrived at the end of our stage. This was evidently what the first rascals had been calculating upon; but it had the effect of stopping all further disputes, and my bearers shouldered their burthen and jogged onwards.

The distance from the basin of the Grand Canal to the river on the opposite side is 28 or 30 le, between five and six miles. After leaving the city behind us, we passed through a pretty undulating country for about two miles, and then entered the town of Kan-du, which is built along the banks of the river Tcien-tang-kiang, sometimes called the Green River, which here falls into the Bay of Hang-chow. Kan-du is the seaport of Hang-chow.

I had seen nothing of my servants during the whole way, and was beginning to expect a scene or adventure at the end of this part of the journey. The chair-bearers spoke a peculiar dialect, which I could scarcely make out, and I kept wondering as we went along what would happen next. The only thing I could make out was, that they were taking me to a