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difficulty in another part of the town from that in which we had spent the night. Silently but heartily I bade adieu to Pouching-hien and the beggars, and getting into my chair continued my journey.

The road from Pouching-hien to the foot of the mountains (I was now travelling in a northerly direction) led through an undulating country. Rice was the principal crop in the fields, but considerable quantities of tobacco were cultivated on all the spots a little higher than the irrigated rice-lands. The tallowtree was again met with in great abundance.

Forty le north from Pouching-hien we passed through a large town, the name of which I neglected to write down at the time, and which I now forget. We stopped here about two hours for refreshment, and pushing onwards arrived the same evening at a small place amongst the Bohea mountains, named Tsong-so. Determined not to run the risk of meeting disreputable company, I ordered Sing-Hoo to go to the principal inn of the town. The landlord received me at the door, and conducted me to the upper part of the hall, on each side of which the bedrooms were placed. Having chosen one, and deposited my luggage in it, I returned to the hall and partook of the usual beverage-tea. In due time an excellent dinner was set before me, and so ended in a peaceful and agreeable manner a most exciting and disagreeable day.

The next morning we had an early breakfast, and then continued our journey. The road was a good one, but, being entirely mountainous, it was very

CHAP. XVII. MOUNTAIN PASSES AND TEMPLES.

299

fatiguing. We crossed over three passes during the day. These mountains, like the Woo-e hills, seem to be the strongholds of Buddhism. This morning, on reaching the top of the first pass, I found we were within the precincts of a temple. It was on the lefthand side of the road, while on the right there was a large tea-house for the refreshment of travellers; a kind of awning connected the two buildings, and formed a covered way which served as a protection from sun and rain.

A young priest, who observed us, ran and made a table ready and set tea before me. When I had finished tea he returned, carrying a large book in his hand, in which subscriptions for the support of the temple were entered with the names of the donors. This he presented to me, and intimated that "the smallest sum would be thankfully received." SingHoo now explained to him that I was not a Buddhist, and would not subscribe to the support of that religion. Giving him a small sum for the tea, and thanking him for his civility, I took my departure. He closed the book and carried it off, apparently perfectly satisfied.

About mid-day we reached the top of another pass having a temple somewhat like the last, and a large tea-house or refreshment room attached to it.

We were now on the borders of two provinces, namely, Fokien and Chekiang, and had to pass through a border-town where a number of troops were stationed. This place is called Ching-che, and stands on the banks of a small mountain-stream

which flows to the westward. As we entered the town I observed soldiers idling about in all directions; some were washing their clothes in the river, others were smoking in the tea-shops, while many were sitting chatting at the doors. All seemed to have eager eyes for the passing traveller, whom it was their duty to examine.

When we had got about half way through the town we stopped at a tea-shop for refreshment. Sing-Hoo begged me to remain in my chair until we had passed the Tartar lines, and I judged it prudent to do so. During the time we stopped, a mandarin of an inferior grade came and examined us, and seeing nothing out of the common way he merely inquired of Sing-Hoo where we had come from, and where we were going to. When he had obtained the requisite information, he walked away, seemingly perfectly satisfied.

We now crossed the river, which, I believe, here divides Fokien from Chekiang. Another high hill was before us, and we began to ascend it soon after we had crossed the river; and here an accident happened, which, had it taken place in the midst of the town through which we had just passed, might have been attended with disagreeable results. One of the bamboo levers of my chair, which I had often thought rather unsound, suddenly snapped in two, and the chair came down upon the road. This was very annoying, yet I felt thankful that it had not occurred while we were within the Tartar lines.

The chair-bearers said they could procure another bamboo at some cottages close by, so, leaving Sing

CHAP. XVII.

FREQUENT STORMS.

301

Hoo to look after the luggage and broken chair, I went on towards the pass, examining the botany of this remarkable district by the way. I met again with the pretty Spiraea which I had first seen on the western ranges of the Bohea mountains. Here also it had chosen its home at a high elevation, and was never met with in the valleys, or on the lower sides of the hills.

When I reached the top of the pass I observed my chairmen and coolies far below. They had evidently got everything right again, and were coming onward as fast as they could. I waited for them on the top of the mountain. They said they had been obliged to pay the sum of 200 cash for a pair of new bamboos, a sum which I told them should be repaid to them at the end of their journey. They seemed very much pleased, and afterwards showed their gratitude in many little ways.

The day was now far advanced, and we had still a considerable distance to go before reaching the town in which we intended to spend the night. Almost every evening we had had a terrific thunder-storm amongst these mountains, and several hours of heavy rain. The clouds were already threatening, so we pressed on as fast as we could.

The town came at last into view, beautifully situated in the bosom of the hills. It is called Er-shepa-tu. Just as we entered it the storm came on, the thunder sounded nearer and nearer, large drops of rain began to fall, and there was no time to lose in seeking an inn. We soon found a comfortable one, and spent the night agreeably enough.

CHAPTER XVIII.

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A celebrated Buddhist temple-Scenery around it Its trees and shrubs - Buddhist worship-Leave the temple - Reflections on Buddhism - Important station for Christian missionaries - Privations they would have to endure - Roman Catholics and their labours-Christian charity-Protestant missionaries -Their views as to the interior of China - A day-dream of China opened Bamboo paper-A mandarin on a journey-Town of Ching-hoo -Engage a boat for Nechow- Return to Shanghae.

THE next day's journey was still mountainous. The roads, although narrow, were excellent, and showed the indefatigable industry of the Chinese. I have already stated that many of these mountain passes have gates, which are constructed not unlike those at the entrance to a city. On the borders of Chekiang, where we now were, I observed three of these gates on the top of one of the mountains, each placed at a short distance from the other. A long row of houses, evidently built as barracks, were observed between the gates, but all ruinous and unoccupied. suppose that troops are thrown into these places in troubled times only, and that in times of peace they prefer remaining in the towns or villages below, to being perched up at a high elevation amongst the barren mountains.

I

When we reached the top of this mountain, the Chinamen told us we should pass a celebrated temple

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