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CHAP. XIII.

A MOONLIGHT SCENE.

235

there was no longer any danger of my losing my way, I was in no hurry to go in-doors. The shades of evening gradually closed in, and it was night on Woo-e-shan. A solemn stillness reigned around, which was broken only by the occasional sound of a gong or bell in the temple, where some priest was engaged in his evening devotions. In the mean time the moon had risen, and the scene appeared, if possible, more striking than it had been in daylight. The strange rocks, as they reared their rugged forms high above the temples, partly in bright light and partly in deep shade, had a curious and unnatural appearance. On the opposite side the wood assumed a dark and dense appearance, and down in the bottom of the dell the little lake sparkled as if covered with

gems.

I sat down on a ledge of rock, and my eyes wandered over these remarkable objects. Was it a reality or a dream, or was I in some fairy land? The longer I looked the more indistinct the objects became, and fancy seemed inclined to convert the rocks and trees into strange living forms. In circumstances of this kind I like to let imagination roam uncontrolled, and if now and then I built a few castles. in the air they were not very expensive and easily pulled down again.

Sing-Hoo now came out to seek me, and to say that our evening meal was ready, and that the priests were waiting. When I went in I found the viands already served. We seated ourselves at the table, pledged each other in a cup of wine, and the meal

went on in the same manner as the former one.

Like

most of my countrymen, I have a great dislike to the Chinese sam-shoo, a spirit somewhat like the Indian arrack, but distilled from rice. Indeed the kind commonly sold in the shops is little else than rank poison. The Woo-e-shan wine, however, was quite a different affair: it resembled some of the lighter French wines; was slightly acid, agreeable, and in no way intoxicating, unless when taken in immoderate quantities. I had no means of ascertaining whether it was made from the grape, or whether it was a kind of sam-shoo which had been prepared in a particular way, and greatly diluted with water. At all events it was a very agreeable accompaniment to a Chinese dinner.

During our meal the conversation between SingHoo and the priests turned upon the strange scenery of these hills, and the numerous temples which were scattered over them, many of which are built in the most inaccessible places. He informed them how delighted I had been with my walk during the afternoon, and how much I was struck with the strange scenery I had witnessed. Anything said in praise of these hills seemed to please the good priests greatly, and rendered them very communicative. They informed us that there were temples erected to Buddha on every hill and peak, and that in all they numbered no less than nine hundred and ninety-nine.

The whole of the land on these hills seems to belong to the priests of the two sects already mentioned, but by far the largest portion belongs to the

CHAP. XIII.

Buddhists.

EMPLOYMENT OF MONKEYS.

237

There are also some farms established for the supply of the court of Peking. They are called the imperial enclosures; but I suspect that they too are, to a certain extent, under the management and control of the priests. The tea-shrub is cultivated everywhere, and often in the most inaccessible situations, such as on the summits and ledges of precipitous rocks. Mr. Ball states* that chains are said to be used in collecting the leaves of the shrubs growing in such places; and I have even heard it asserted (I forget whether by the Chinese or by others) that monkeys are employed for the same purpose, and in the following manner:-These animals, it seems, do not like work, and would not gather the leaves willingly; but when they are seen up amongst the rocks where the tea-bushes are growing, the Chinese throw stones at them; the monkeys get very angry, and commence breaking off the branches of the tea-shrubs, which they throw down at their assailants!

I should not like to assert that no tea is gathered on these hills by the agency of chains and monkeys, but I think it may be safely affirmed that the quantity procured in such ways is exceedingly small. The greatest quantity is grown on level spots on the hillsides, which have become enriched, to a certain extent, by the vegetable matter and other deposits which have been washed down by the rains from a higher elevation. Very little tea appeared to be cultivated on the more barren spots amongst the

* Cultivation and Manufacture of Tea.

hills, and such ground is very plentiful on Woo-e

shan.

Having been all day toiling amongst the hills, I retired to rest at an early hour. Sing-Hoo told me afterwards that he never closed his eyes during the night. It seems he did not like the appearance of the ill-looking priest; and having a strong prejudice against the Fokien men, he imagined an attempt might be made to rob or perhaps murder us during the night. No such fears disturbed my rest. I slept soundly until morning dawned, and when I awoke felt quite refreshed, and equal to the fatigues of another day. Calling for some water to be brought me, I indulged in a good wash, a luxury which I could only enjoy once in twenty-four hours.

During my stay here I met a number of tea-merchants from Tsong-gan-hien, who had come up to buy tea from the priests. These men took up their quarters in the temples, or rather in the priests' houses adjoining, until they had completed their purchases. Coolies were then sent for, and the tea was conveyed to Tsong-gan-hien, there to be prepared and packed for the foreign markets.

On the morning of the third day, having seen all that was most interesting in this part of the hills, I determined to change my quarters. As soon as breakfast was over I gave the old priest a present for his kindness, which, although small, seemed to raise me not a little in his esteem. The chair-bearers were then summoned, and we left the hospitable roof of the Buddhist priests to explore more distant parts

CHAP. XIII.

LEAVE THE TEMPLE.

239

of the hills. What roof was next to shelter me I had not the most remote idea.

Our host followed me to the gateway, and made his adieus in Chinese style. As we threaded our way amongst the hills, I observed tea-gatherers busily employed on all the hill-sides where the plantations were. They seemed a happy and contented race; the joke and merry laugh were going round, and some of them were singing as gaily as the birds in the old trees about the temples.

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