remained until night had shut out the scene from my view, but my chairbearers, who were now near the end of their journey, intimated that they were ready to proceed, so we went onwards.

The distance from Tsong-gan-hien to Woo-e-shan is only about 40 or 50 le. This is, however, only to the bottom of the hills, and we intended to take up our quarters in one of the principal temples near the top. The distance we had to travel was therefore much greater than this. When we arrived at the foot of the hill we inquired our way to the temple. "Which temple do you wish to go to?" was the answer; "there are nearly a thousand temples on Woo-e-shan." Sing-Hoo explained that we were unacquainted with the names of the different temples, but our object was to reach one of the largest. We were directed, at last, to the foot of some perpendicular rocks. When we reached the spot I expected to get a glimpse of the temple we were in search of somewhere on the hill side above us, but there was nothing of the kind. A small footpath, cut out of the rock, and leading over almost inaccessible places, was all I could see. It was now necessary for me to get out of my chair, and to scramble up the pathway -often on my hands and knees. Several times the coolies stopped, and declared that it was impossible to get the chair any further. I pressed on, however, and they were obliged to scramble after me with it.

It was now about two o'clock in the afternoon; there was scarcely a cloud in the sky, and the day was fearfully hot. As I climbed up the rugged steep,

the perspiration streaming from every pore, I began to think of fever and ague, and all those ills which the traveller is subject to in this unhealthy climate. We reached the top of the hill at last, and our eyes were gladdened with the sight of a rich luxuriant spot, which I knew at once to be near a Buddhist temple. Being a considerable way in advance of my chairbearers and coolies, I sat down under the shade of a tree to rest and get cool before I entered its sacred precincts. In a few minutes my people arrived with smiling countenances, for they had got a glimpse of the temple through the trees, and knew that rest and refreshment awaited them.

The Buddhist priesthood seem always to have selected the most beautiful spots for the erection of their temples and dwellings. Many of these places owe their chief beauty to the protection and cultivation of trees. The wood near a Buddhist temple in China is carefully protected, and hence a traveller can always distinguish their situation, even when some miles distant. In this respect these priests resemble the enlightened monks and abbots of the olden time, to whose taste and care we owe some of the richest and most beautiful sylvan scenery in Europe.

The temple, or collection of temples, which we now approached, was situated on the sloping side of a small valley, or basin, on the top of Woo-e-shan, which seemed as if it had been scooped out for the At the bottom of this basin a small lake purpose. was seen glistening through the trees, and covered

with the famous lien-wha, or Nelumbium-a plant held in high esteem and veneration by the Chinese, and always met with in the vicinity of Buddhist temples. All the ground from the lake to the temples was covered with the tea-shrub, which was evidently cultivated with great care, while on the opposite banks, facing the buildings, was a dense forest of trees and brushwood.

On one side-that on which the temples were built-there were some strange rocks standing like huge monuments which had a peculiar and striking appearance. They stood near each other, and were each from 80 to 100 feet in height. These no doubt had attracted, by their strange appearance, the priests who first selected this place as a site for their temples. The high-priest had his house built at the base of one of these huge rocks, and to it we bent our steps. Ascending a flight of steps, and passing through a doorway, we found ourselves in front of the building. A little boy, who was amusing himself under the porch, ran off immediately and informed the priest that strangers had come to pay him a visit. Being very tired, I entered the reception hall, and sat down to wait his arrival. In a very short time the priest came in and received me with great politeness. Sing-Hoo now explained to him that I had determined to spend a day or two on Woo-e-shan, whose fame had reached even the fardistant country to which I belonged; and begged that we might be accommodated with food and lodgings during our stay.

While the high-priest was listening to Sing-Hoo he drew out of his tobacco-pouch a small quantity of Chinese tobacco, rolled it for a moment between his finger and thumb, and then presented it to me to fill my pipe with. This practice is a common one amongst the inhabitants of these hills, and indicates, I suppose, that the person to whom it is presented is welcome. It was evidently kindly meant, so, taking it in the same kind spirit, I lighted my pipe and began to smoke.

In the mean time our host led me into his best room, and, desiring me to take a seat, he called the boy, and ordered him to bring us some tea. And now I drank the fragrant herb, pure and unadulterated, on its native hills. It had never been half so grateful before, or I had never been so much in need of it; for I was hot, thirsty, and weary, after ascending the hill under a burning sun. The tea soon quenched my thirst and revived my spirits, and called to my mind the words of a Chinese author, who says, "Tea is exceedingly useful; cultivate it, and the benefit will be widely spread; drink it, and the animal spirits will be lively and clear."

Although I can speak enough of the Chinese language to make myself understood in several districts of the country, I judged it prudent not to enter into a lengthened conversation with the priests at this temple. I left the talking part of the business to be done by my servant, who was quite competent to speak for us both. They were therefore told that I could not speak the language of the district, and

that I came from a far country "beyond the great wall."

The little boy whom I have already noticed now presented himself, and announced that dinner was on the table. The old priest bowed to me, and asked me to walk into the room in which the dinner was served. I did not fail to ask him to precede me, which of course he "couldn't think of doing," but followed me, and placed me at his left hand in the "seat of honour." Three other priests took their seats at the same table. One of them had a most unprepossessing appearance; his forehead was low, he had a bold and impudent-looking eye, and was badly marked with the smallpox. In short, he was one of those men that one would rather avoid than have anything to do with. The old high-priest was quite a different-looking man from his subordinate. He was about sixty years of age, and appeared to be very intelligent. His countenance was such as one likes to look upon; meekness, honesty, and truth were stamped unmistakeably upon it.

Having seated ourselves at table, a cup of wine was poured out to each of us, and the old priest said, "Che-sue, che-sue"-Drink wine, drink wine. Each lifted up his cup, and brought it in contact with those of the others. As the cups touched we bowed. to each other, and said, "Drink wine, drink wine." The chopsticks which were before each of us were now taken up, and dinner commenced. Our table was crowded with small basins, each containing a different article of food. I was surprised to see in