often accustomed to all the formalities of a Chinese dinner, I went on with the most perfect confidence.

On my former journey in the interior, as well as on this, I had discarded all European habits and luxuries. Chopsticks were substituted for knives and forks, tea and light wines for stronger drinks, and a long bamboo Chinese pipe for Manilla cheroots. By these means I had arrived at a high state of civilization and politeness. In eating my dinner, such rude things as knives and forks were never thought of. The cutting up of meat and vegetables was done by servants in the kitchen, before the food was cooked or brought to table. When the various dishes, prepared in this manner, were brought to table, the chopsticks those ancient and useful articles-answered every purpose. Talk of knives and forks indeed! One cannot eat rice with them, and how very awkward it would be to pick out all those dainty little morsels from the different dishes with a fork! In the first place, it would be necessary to push them to the bottom of the basin before the fork would take a proper hold; and in many instances we should do what the novice in the art of using chopsticks frequently does-drop the food on its way from the dish to the mouth. There is no such difficulty or danger with the chopsticks when properly used. The smallest morsel, even to a single grain of rice, can be picked up with perfect ease. In sober truth, they are most useful and sensible things, whatever people may say to the contrary; and I know of no article in use amongst ourselves which could supply their place.

Excepting the fingers, nature's own invention, nothing is so convenient as the chopsticks.

When I had finished dinner, a wooden basin containing warm water and a wet cloth were placed before me, in order that I might wash my hands and face. Wringing the wet cloth, I rubbed my face, neck, and hands well over with it in Chinese style. Having finished my ablution, I returned again to the table. The dinner and dishes having in the mean time been removed, tea was again set before me.

The Canton men still remained at the opposite table, but the greater part of the others, who, at their instigation, had been taking sly peeps at me, had gone away. I suppose, when they saw that I ate and drank just like the rest, they must have felt some little surprise, and had their original opinion strengthened, namely, that after all I was only one of themselves.

My chair-bearers having dined as well as myself, they sent a message by Sing-Hoo to say that they were ready to proceed. Making a slight bow to mine host, and a slighter one to the Canton gentlemen, in Chinese style, I got into my chair and went my way. As soon as I had left the house, Sing-Hoo, who was paying our bill, was closely questioned about me. According to his account he had completely mystified them, by informing them, as he had done others before, that I came from some far country beyond the great wall, a statement which those who knew best would not have called in question.

Our road was still crowded with coolies: indeed

nearly the whole way across from Chang-shan to Yukshan they formed one unbroken line. Yuk-shan was the name of the town to which we were now bound. As we proceeded, we began to get more extensive views of the country. We had passed the line or ridge which divides the streams which flow to the eastward from those which flow westward. The country appeared to open up, and we were evidently approaching some river of considerable size. At last a hill, richly wooded, came into view, and was pointed out to me as that from which the town of Yuk-shan had taken its name, and which was situated in its vicinity. We reached the town about four o'clock in the afternoon, having travelled about thirty miles since the morning.

Yuk-shan is a walled town of considerable size, and I should imagine contains from thirty to forty thousand inhabitants. It appears to be a larger place than Chang-shan; and, like that town, it stands at the head of a navigable river. All the merchandise of the Bohea mountains, and of the countries east of the Poyang lake, which is destined for Hang-chow-foo, Shanghae, and other towns in that district, is landed here, to be carried across to Chang-shan by coolies. Hence these two towns appear to be the connecting links between two most important rivers, as well as between the richest countries of China. One of them is connected with the great black-tea country, and the other with the green-tea districts, and also with those rich silk and cotton lands near the coast; and the importance of these two towns and rivers will be

further appreciated when I state that through their agency large quantities of our manufactures find their way into the heart of the country.

Passing over a fine stone bridge, we were soon at the walls of the city. Having entered the gates, we proceeded along one of the principal streets. It was crowded with people, all hurrying to and fro, and apparently engaged in active business. The shops were of the same kind as I have frequently described, and I am not aware of any particular kind of manufacture being carried on in the place. Like their neighbours at the head of the other river, the inhabitants seem to be busy enough in housing and carrying the merchandise brought here to be sent onwards. The western suburb is very extensive, and adjoins the river. To this part of the town we bent our steps, and soon reached the Hong-le, or inn, recommended by our chairmen, and with which they were connected.

I had no object in remaining long in this town. When we reached the Hong-le, therefore, I sent my servant to engage a boat to take us on; and so quickly did he manage the business, that in half an hour we had left Yuk-shan, and with a fair wind were sailing rapidly down the river to the westward.

Our boat was engaged to take us as far as the city of Quan-sin-foo, a distance of ninety or a hundred le; and as the stream was very rapid, we arrived abreast of that place early the next morning. It appeared to be a fine large city, but a place of little trade. Its walls and ramparts seemed in excellent order, and

there is a pretty bridge of boats across the river; but I was only a short time here, and had no time for minute examination.

Sing-Hoo was now despatched to engage another boat, and to lay in the necessary supplies for our journey. He remained absent a long time, and when he returned excused himself by saying that he had called upon a friend and countryman of his own, to get information regarding our route. I was obliged to content myself with this explanation, but was rather surprised to see a person come into our boat shortly afterwards, carrying two large packages of grass-cloth. These weighed at least forty pounds. "To whom does this cloth belong?" I asked. "6 Oh, it is mine," replied Sing-Hoo; "this cloth is very cheap here, and I want to take it back with me to a friend in Shanghae." This was very provoking: here was the old accumulating propensity at work again. I knew we had still a long journey before us, over many steep and rugged mountains, where our baggage had to be carried on the backs of coolies. I had reduced my own baggage as much as possible, and had already obliged Sing-Hoo to leave all his superfluous things at Yen-chow-foo, and now he brought a package larger than all we had, and expected me to hire coolies to carry it twice across the Bohea mountains, because this grass-cloth was a few cash cheaper at Quan-sin-foo than at Shanghae or Ning-po! I really believe such a project would never have entered the brain of any one except a China

man.