IDES. form, it passes through the provinces of Chaco, Chiquitos, and Moxos, and unites the towering summits of Peru and Chili with the mountains of Brazil and Para

15

18.

guay.

These subordinate arms of the Andes, according to ed by the enlightened traveller who first suggested this arrangement of them, divide that part of the continent of America over which they stretch, into three immense plains, called the valley of the Oronoco, that of the Maragnon, and the Pampas of Buenos Ayres; which are all enclosed on the western side by the great chain of the Andes, but are open on the east, and towards the Atlantic ocean. The valley of the Oronoco, consisting of level tracts covered with reedy herbage and palms, is the most northern plain. Here the primitive rock of the sub-soil is covered with lime-stone, gypsum, and calcareous formations; while in the plain of the Maragnon, the soil is remarkably thin, and though it everywhere abounds in wood, the granite, unmixed with any alluvial deposit, frequently appears. The most southern valley, or Pampas of Buenos Ayres, is a dead flat of great extent, clothed like the valley of the Oronoco, with a coarse species of herbage, and generally occupied by herds of wild cattle, which are killed in vast of numbers for the sake of their hides. It contains beds of secondary formation to an enormous depth; in which, under the rays of a tropical sun, the most luxuriant fruits are found in perfection.

In the neighbourhood of Quito, the approach to the Andes from the western coast, merits particular admiration. The road lies through the most beautiful forests; the foliage of which is agreeably diversified by a thousand varieties of colour; the rugged precipices of the mountains are softened by distance; and the scenery in general wears an air of harmony and regularity. But as we hasten onward, the natural wildness and sublimity of the scene gradually engross our view, and the tremendous interstices of the mountains; and the cataracts which shelve down their sides, and force their way into the plains beneath, are calculated to remove every impression of serenity, and fill the mind with tumultuous agitation.

The actual path of the traveller, too, must now be frequently cleared by the axe; the ground beneath his feet assumes a totally different character to what the first promise of the scenery would induce him to sup pose; equinoctial torrents render it everywhere swampy and dangerous, while the rays of the sun very feebly penetrate the overhanging foliage. As the path as cends, and the opening of the woods relieve him of these difficulties, impetuous torrents rush from the surround ing heights, and are crossed by the most frail and precarious bridges, formed of the matted grasses of these regions; the best roads lead along the edge of awful precipices, and are frequently inaccessible, except to a single mule, well-accustomed to them, and to whose discretion the life of man must be wholly committed.

Of all the portions of the Andes that have become known to us by the observations of successive travellers, none appear to exceed in interest, or in grandeur, the magnificent central group in the province of Quito. We return to particularize the great features of this group, and some of the most remarkable mountains it contains. These form, as we have intimated, two prodigious ridges, which enclose an immense plain, extend

VOL. XVII.

ing from 0°, 13' to the 3d degree of S. latitude, or more ANDES. properly, a succession of vallies, varying in their altitude from 10,600 to 13,900 feet. Here the temperature is The plain delightful, and the whole aspect of the country agree- of Quito. ably contrasted with the desolate regions that must be traversed in approaching the plain, and that surround it on every side. It presents, indeed, altogether a most interesting scene; walled in from every other by its mountains, covered with everlasting snow, and overspread with towns and villages of the most picturesque beauty. The city of Quito crowns the prospect northward, but the buildings of the entire province are usually of stone, or a peculiar kind of brick, which is dried in the shade. A large square forms the central part of each town, and one side is generally occupied with a church. The streets, in general, proceed in right angles from this square, and give the whole the appearance of an extensive garden. The climate, according to Humboldt, has experienced a considerable variation since the last earthquake with which it was afflicted. Previous to which, the thermometer stood at 15° or 16°; but it now stands, on an average, from 4° to 10° of Reaumur.

The enormous mountains of Casitagua, Pichincha, Mountains Atacazo, Corazon, Ilinissa, Carguirazo, Cunambay, and on each Chimborazo, rear their lofty heads to the west of this side. plain. On the east are the mountains of Guamani, Cayambe, Antisana, Passuchoa, Ruminavi, Quelendama, Cotopaxi, Tunguragua, and Capa Urcu, or El Altar; the latter of which (according to the tradition of the Indians) was originally more elevated in its summit than even Chimborazo.

The appearance of these mountains is not so imposing as might justly be anticipated from their amazing height, on account of the elevation of the plain on which they rest. Thus the Chimborazo and the Cotopaxi, which are, in reality, 6,000 feet higher than Mont Blanc, scarcely appear more sublime than that monarch of the Alps from the vale of Chamouni; if, indeed, the comparing power of travellers that have visited both, is in such extraordinary scenes to be supposed to possess much accuracy.

Chimboraso, or Chimborazo, which has been geo- Chimbometrically ascertained to be 21,441 feet in height, razo. is of the form of a dome, and is usually considered the highest point of elevation in the globe. It rears its lofty summits from the plain of Tapia, which in itself is 9,481 feet above the level of the sea. It narrows toward the top into a conical shape, and has been the frequent object of unsuccessful enterprizes. Humboldt, undismayed by the failures of his precursors, succeeded in scaling a ridge of volcanic rocks to within 240 toises of the summit; but the extreme tenuity of the air, and the fissures by which he was surrounded, impeded all further ascension. Here the blood streamed from his lips and various parts of his face; and the dense fogs rendered the whole journey at once dismal and unsatisfactory. The traveller only appears, in this instance, to have accomplished a higher feat of daring than his predecessors, for beyond observing a small kind of moss to abound all the way, and every living creature (even the condor) to have been left far below, he seems to have been incapable of making any other discovery. The line of congelation is marked on this and all the neighbouring heights with a surprising uniformity. On the northern declivity of Chimborazo, the road from Guayaquil to

4 B

ANDES. Quito is situated, and leads through the most grand scenery, approaching nearly to the region of perpetual

Cotopaxi.

Pichincha,

winter.

Cotopaxi is, perhaps, the next most remarkable mountain of the Andes, and the most elevated volcano in the world. It stands within 12 leagues of the city of Quito, between the inferior mountains Ruminavi and Quelendama. It is a regular cone, clothed entirely with snow, just as it rises above these adjacent peaks, and attaining the altitude of 18,891 feet. The crater is in a constant state of activity of various degrees. The first eruption, of which we have any record, took place at the period of the Spanish subjugation of these regions, an event to which it is said not a little to have contributed. We have no further particulars of the occurrence than that it was supposed to fulfil some traditional prophecies amongst the native tribes, who were thus induced to consider their country abandoned by its deities. In the year 1743, it threw up volumes of flame, which were followed by immense torrents of water, that inundated the whole country; and, proceeding in a southerly direction, entered the river that flows near Latacunga, which instantly burst its banks, and overflowed the neighbouring plains. The eruption, succeeded by these torrents, continued, unabated, for three days; when the latter slowly diminished, but the flames continued to rise for some time, accompanied with a loud and rushing noise, and emitting through the crevices of the mountain a most brilliant illumination of the country by night. In 1768, the whole summit of the mountain was so unusually heated, as suddenly to discharge all its snow, while volumes of ashes obscured the light of the sun at Hambato until three o'clock in the afternoon. This eruption was heard at Guayaquil, a distance of 150 miles, like the roaring of successive discharges of cannon. Masses of scorified rock are frequently thrown from Cotopaxi into the surrounding plains, where they lie as in an inexhaustible quarry. Humboldt tried in vain to reach the mouth of the crater, which appears like a wall of black rock round the top of the mountain.

Pichincha, though inferior in elevation to Cotopaxi, rising only to 15,939 feet from the level of the ocean, is scarcely less interesting in character, as a volcano, and, from the visits of the French academicians, and latterly of M. Humboldt, is far better known. It forms the base of the city of Quito, which stands at an elevation of about 9,500 feet on its side. The crater of the summit is an enormous gulf, measuring three British miles in circumference, and surmounted by three principal peaks which overhang its edge. M. Condamine examined it in 1735, when he found the fires extinct, and the whole of the surrounding ridges covered with snow. But Humboldt, in 1802, saw many indications of volcanic activity. The surrounding peaks were generally naked, from the heat of ascending vapours; and the inner circumference of the crater was very black, and emitted occasional smoke and flames, though snow still concealed its edges. On the utmost projection of one of these peaks our adventurous traveller prostrated himself to look down into the abyss below, where several inferior mountains seemed to rise to the height of about 600 yards below the top. He conjectured that the bottom of the crater was nearly of equal altitude with the plain of the city of Quito.

Cayambe Ureu, whose summit is crossed by the ANDE equatorial line, is the highest mountain of this range, with the exception of Chimborazo. It rises to an ele- Caran vation of 19,386 feet from the level of the sea, and is rea of the shape of a truncated cone.

El Corazon, which soars amid the region of eternal El Cor snow, was ascended by Bouguer, and discovered to have a summit in the shape of a heart, from which it derives its appropriate appellation. Its altitude is 15,795 feet from the level of the sea.

The enormous mountains of Ilinissa and Ruminavi, stand E. and W. of the Andes, that cross the equa tor and join each other by a transverse chain, known by the name of Alto de Tiopullo. They rise to upwards of 17,000 feet from the level of the sea, and bound the south side of the plain of Quito, separating it from the vallies of Latacunga and Hambato. A very remarkable species of tumulus appears on the summit of the chain or dyke of Tiopullo, and what is supposed to be the ruins of an ancient Peruvian palace. The building, traditionally called the palace of Callo, is si tuated in a south-west direction from this mound, nine miles from the crater of Cotopaxi, and about 30 from Quito. It is of a square form, having sides of about 100 feet in length, with four great door-ways, and eight chambers. The walls are more than three feet in thickness, and composed of large stones, regularly cut, and beautifully laid. The whole is in a good state of preservation, and its workmanship, as a specimen of native architecture, is exquisite. The tumulus is supposed to have been the burial-place of some distinguished chief.

R

The most southern mountain of Quito is the volcano S of Sangai, or Mecas, 17,131 feet from the level of the sea. Its summits are covered with snow: from which continual fires are seen to issue, and the mountain is remarkable for the loud crashing sounds which it constantly emits. These, according to Ulloa, may be heard at 40 leagues distance. The adjacent country is entirely destitute of fertility; and is covered with cinders. The river Sangay rises in this desert; and, after a junction with the Upano, flows into the Maragnon, under the appellation of the Payra.

Whether the noises which proceed from Sangai, and some other of the volcanic mountains of the Andes, are occasioned by imprisoned winds, has been a question of some controversy. Sometimes they sound in that rushing manner that would induce this supposi tion, as it is certain also that overpowering gusts of wind burst suddenly from their immense crevices at intervals, and carry away masses of rock to an amazing distance. On the other hand, there is a rattling and crashing sort of concussion heard in this mountain and others, on various occasions, which can be accounted for in no such way; and seem to proceed from internal convulsions, of which we can form, perhaps, no adequate idea. In this neighbourhood liquid mud, containing myriads of dead fish, is also among the more remarkable productions of the volcanic peaks.

El Altar, or Altair, is one of the eastern mountains, E which the Indians state to have been once of greater altitude than Chimborazo. It now rises 17,256 feet from the sea, and is joined by a lofty desert to another peak, called Collanes.

Northward of this, about seven leagues, is the vol

c.

DES. cano Tunguragua, remarkable for the hot springs which issue from its sides, and which have caused warm baths to be erected in the neighbourhood. The town of Riobamba was once entirely overwhelmed by an eruption from this mountain, which is 16,500 feet in altitude. Carguirazo is to the N. W. of Tunguragua, and rises 15,540 feet above the level of the sea. of the In the years 1734, &c. M. Bouguer, and other mahand thematicians of France and Spain, were engaged in a sma- commission from their respective governments, to make certain observations on the figure of the earth in this part of the Andes, a circumstance which has supplied some of the most interesting particulars respecting the climate in high altitudes that has hitherto been given. On their arrival at the kingdom of Quito, it was determined that they should continue the series of the triangles for measuring an arch of the meridian south of that city. The company accordingly divided into two separate bodies, attended by their respective assistants in the enterprize. To Don George Juan and M. Godin were assigned the superintendance of one party, which selected the mountain of Pambamarca for their observations; while M. Bouguer, himself, M. de la Condamine, and Don Ulloa, ascended the highest point of Pichincha. An abridgment of the narrative of their proceedings, particularly that of the latter party, will be acceptable to the reader, and supersede any general description of the characteristic storms of these heights. ande In order to make their temporary abode in these bin- wintry regions as tolerable as possible, and convenient for their mathematical pursuits, both companies supplied themselves, in the first instance, with field tents; but as they ascended the summit of Pichincha, it was found utterly impossible to use them, both from the narrowness of the points on which they were obliged to fix for their observations, and the violence of the winds continually roaring over them. On the top of this mountain they could only erect a single hut, and that so small as with difficulty to contain them when they had crept into its low door. This point was 100 fathoms above the desert of Pichincha, and it cost the party four hours of incessant labour and danger to reach it on foot, after they had brought their mules to the highest altitude possible. With the most indefatigable perseverance did the members of the commission endure all the bitterness and privations of their precarious lodgement on this craggy rock for three and , twenty days. From their first ascent, the subtlety of the air rendered respiration exceedingly difficult during any exertion; and the severity of the cold at this height, and the almost constant violence of the winds, rarely suffered that inconvenience to abate. Thick fogs hung around the rock day and night, and when whirled by a strong blast, brought a perfect dizziness over the vision, and rendered it impossible to abide long in the open air. In their mildest state, it was difficult to discover any thing through these mists at ten or twelve paces distant. These circumstances compelled the party to remain generally within the hut; but whenever the fog and clouds retired downwards, and the wind was calm, the scene is represented as having been highly beautiful. The clouds far beneath assumed the appearance of a circumambient ocean, in which their rock rose as a central island. Occasionally, the deep murmur of whirlwinds, or the distant sound of

tempests, ascended from all sides with amazing dis- ANDES. tinctness, and lightnings were seen to stream from every part of the horizon, while the spectators enjoyed the invigorating sun-beams, and a delightfully serene sky. At these welcome intervals, our mathematicians would exercise their limbs in every possible mode to preserve them from the most fatal numbness, and were glad to enjoy the sports of childhood in a scene that dwindled man into a child, by rolling fragments of rock down the mountain, and attentively listening to the reverberations produced. In a few minutes, however, the rising clouds would disperse every attraction of the scene; the difficulty of respiration would return; and overwhelming sheets of snow and hail compel them to retire within. While pursuing their calculations, and at all hours of the night, frequent concussions of the entire precipice would be felt, occasioned by the fall of enormous fragments of rocks, and resounding from below with a more appalling noise, as they were the only earthly sounds that disturbed the silence of these regions.

the Indians.

The door of their hut was closed on the outside Precantions by thongs of leather, and every precaution adopted to taken. make it air-tight within. To repel the full effects of the shivering blasts, however, or indeed to alter in any very considerable degree the temperature of the atmosphere, even in this closely-crowded spot, seemed alike impossible. As their days were sometimes rendered nearly as dark as the night by the mist, lamps were kept continually burning, and every individual was supplied with a chafing-dish of coals for his own use; but when the rigour of the climate was thus rendered for a while supportable, the fear of being blown over the precipice compelled them, after each succeeding storm, to encounter the inclemencies of the air, and free their hut from the masses of snow and ice which would accumulate on the top. Their attendant Desertion of Indians were so benumbed by the cold, that they were with difficulty persuaded, for the first day or two, to stir from a small tent where a considerable fire was kept up, so that the mathematicians themselves were obliged to undertake the principal share of every kind of labour. After this period, the Indians had nearly jeoparded the lives of the entire party, by a determination not to remove the snow from their door on a certain morning; and but for intelligence of the conspiracy being furnished by one of them who performed the task on this occasion himself, our adventurers had been entirely abandoned without warning. So general, indeed, was the desertion of their attendants from the scene of these severities, that the mathematicians were compelled to communicate with the corregidor of Quito respecting their situation; new assistants were sent, with the strictest injunctions, and even threats of exemplary punishment, should they neglect their duty, but not any thing could induce them to obedience until it was agreed that they should be regularly relieved every fourth day.

ANDES. warmth, or quickening the circulation of the blood, is declared to have been as unavailing as cold water. The final effects of the cold on all parts of the system were almost intolerable. Their feet became swelled and tender, especially when exposed to the heat, while to move about for the sake of exercise was attended with scarcely less anguish. Their hands were knotted with chilblains; their lips chopped and swelled; and the very effort of articulation constantly drew blood. Humboldt, as we have seen, describes similar momentary effects of the cold in these regions, which sufficiently corroborates this interesting narrative.

Mineralogy ,,of the Andes,

Molina.

The mineralogy of the Andes has been but little explored. From the travellers who preceded Humboldt we shall endeavour to gather a few particulars, especially of the Chilian Andes; but to the conclusion of the labours of that interesting traveller must we look for the completion of any lucid statement on this subject.

The precious metals of Peru and Lima are deposited, according to Helms, in veins of quartz or alluvial layers of sand-stone and iron-sand, resting in the argillaceous schistus, of which the great chain of the Andes is, according to this author, principally composed. At Potosi, the principal silver mine abounds in ferruginous quartz, bedded in a fine yellow argillaceous slate. In the neighbourhood of the lake of Titicaca, he describes the basis of argillaceous schistus as covered with alluvial deposits of marl, gypsum, and limestone; sand, porphyry, and even rock-salt. Near Guancavilica the mountains are composed almost entirely of sand-stone and lime-stone; northward of this portion of the Andes they are more calcareous, yet rich in metallic ore.

Molina, in his Saggio Sulla Storia Naturale del Chili, describes the enormous masses of the Chilian Andes as consisting of "a quartzose rock, of a composition almost uniform, and in which marine bodies are never found, as they are in the secondary mountains. On the summit of Descabesado," he says, "a most elevated mountain in the midst of the principal chain of the Andes, and which in height does not appear to be inferior to the famous Chimborazo of Quito, a number of marine shells has been observed, either petrified or calcined, and probably deposited by water. The summit of this mountain, which is flat, bears marks of a volcanic eruption: it is now a square plain, each side being about six miles in length; and in the middle is a lake of extreme depth, which, so far as can be judged by appearances, was the crater of the volcano. All the ridges on the sides of the Andes, as well as those more maritime, or more inland, are of secondary formation. Their summits are commonly more rounded; and they are formed in horizontal beds of various substances and thickness. In all these beds marine bodies abound; and even impressions of plants or animals are often discovered. I have observed in the excavations which have been made, and in the courses of the rivers, that the lowest visible bed of all these mountains is a kind of cos, or whet-stone, of a reddish colour, and sandy grain; but sometimes a quartz of sand, or a pretty compact tufa of a dark brown colour. The other beds are clays of different colours, marls, marbles of several kinds, schistus, spars, gypsum, fossile coal; after which appear metallic veins, ochre, quartz, granite, porphyry, sand-stone, and other rocks

more or less hard. The order of the beds is not always ANDES the same; and I have often observed considerable derangements-a superior bed in one mountain being inferior in another; and in these derangements the laws of gravity are by no means observed. Nevertheless, all the beds, in general, affect a kind of regularity in their direction, which is from S. to N.; and as they incline a little to the W. according to the fall of the sea, they seem to have followed the current of the ocean, which, on account of the position of the country, is from S. to N. Besides the mountains composed of different beds, there are some of uniform structure; or homogeneous beds of lime-stone, gypsum, talc, cos, or whet-stone; of granite, of simple and primitive rocks, of basalt, lava, and other volcanic substances; and some of shells, little or not at all decomposed, as mentioned by Ulloa in his voyage. But all these homogeneous mountains are barren, only producing some languishing shrubs, while the mountains disposed in beds, which are always covered with a crust of good soil, present a vigorous and agreeable vegetation. The exterior form of all the stratified mountains furnishes another palpable proof of the incumbence of the ocean, their bases, which are almost always extensive, enlarging gradually, form gentle vales, whose inflexions and inclinations impress, in a lively manner, the long abode and direction of the ocean. Their salient and retreating angles also correspond. On descending into these vales, it may be perceived, without difficulty, that the organization is the same with that of the stratified mountains, as the same materials and disposition appear throughout, with this difference, that almost all the substances are decayed, or even reduced to earth."

accoat

the sub

Date ch

Humboldt found the whole of his second subordinate Humbl branch of the Andes, as we have intimated, composed of primitive rock, principally granite, which seems to be the probable base of the entire chain. Comparing this branch with the cordillera of the coast in the Journal de Physique, he thus gives us the order in which the primary rocks appear. 1. Massive granite, occasionally mixed with jad and plumbago; 2. Foliated granite and mica slate, interspersed with garnets; 3. Primitive slate, with beds of native alum; 4. Slate, mixed with hornblende, green-stone, amygdaloid, and great quantities of porphyry-slate. The usual arrangement, or inclination of the primitive rocks, is to the N. W. In what he calls the secondary rocks, which compose the Andes of the coast of Venezuela, the granite is succeeded by gneiss and beds of primitive lime-stone; the mica slate is covered with hornblende and lime-stone, and this again with beds of Lydianstone, gypsum, petrisolen, and calcareous free-stone. The granite is often stratified in beds from two to three feet thick, and contains large crystals of felspar. Red garnets and sapphire are frequently mixed with mica slate in the primitive rocks; and in the gneiss of the secondary rocks a few green garnets are found. In the cordillera of the cataracts of the Oronoco, large masses of a glowing yellow tale also appear, a substance which gave such celebrity to the El Dorado in the centre of the Andes, as a golden mountain. Chlorite slate sometimes occurs in this cordillera, and the most beautiful hornblende occasionally penetrates the streets of St. Thome and Guaiana.

Petrifactions do not frequently appear in the Andes;

DES. but patches of gypsum are not uncommon; and Humboldt found, in the calcareous free-stone of the coast, facvast numbers of recently petrified shells, at nine leagues rarely distance from the sea. In Peru, fossil-shells have been found at the extraordinary height of 12,800 feet above the level of the ocean; and near Guancavilica, mixed with the lime-stone noticed by Helms, at the height of 14,120. In Europe they have never been found higher than the top of the Pyrenees, or at an altitude of para 11,700 feet. Basalt is found on Pichincha, at 15,500 feet above the sea, upwards of 10,000 feet beyond the dary highest altitude at which it occurs in the Old World. tions. Beds of coal rise in Peru to the enormous height of 14,700 feet; and at Santa Fè, to 8,650 feet; while granite, on the other hand, which is found in the highest elevations of Europe, never reaches beyond those of from 11,000 to 12,000 feet in America.

eva

f the

es.

Porphyry, green-stone, basalt, and phonolite, everywhere abound on the summits of the great chain of the Andes, broken into a thousand fantastic shapes. Of the first of these, the entire summit of Chimborazo, according to Humboldt, is composed, as well as those of Cayambe and Antisana; while masses of 10,000 or 12,000 feet in depth commonly flank the chain. Near the bottom of this chain two different sorts of lime-stone occur, one with a silicious base, enclosing in some places cinnabar and coal; the other generally calcareous, and cementing the secondary rocks. It is stated, as a remarkable fact, that the porphyry of these mountains never contains quartz, and rarely mica, though it is commonly mixed with hornblende. There is a mass of pure quartz west of Caxamanca, of the depth of 9,600 feet, and a rock of sand-stone, near Cuenza, of 5,000 feet. Every operation of nature in these regions seems conducted on their own magnificent scale. One of the most remarkable metallic substances in the bowels of these mountains, is the pacos, a compound of clay, oxyd of iron, and the muriate of silver, mixed with native silver. Their inexhaustible mines are but too well known to the world; and, managed with a liberal policy, under the guidance of scientific knowledge, might unquestionably be made far more productive than at present. For several interesting particulars respecting these, see the article AMERICA, p. 462 of this vol.

On the whole, the mineralogical facts and character of these stupendous mountains are but too partially known to furnish any correct hypothesis of the process of nature in their formation; and it will be well if, as these facts increase upon us, the immaturity of the science of mineralogy itself does not appear more distinctly than ever.

Abrupt precipices, similar to those which mark the or southern face of the cordillera of the cataracts of the Oronoco, occur in every part of the parent chain of the Andes near the equator, and diversify its appearance with the most horrid chasms, or rents, here called Quebradas, varying from 100 feet to 4 or 5,000 feet in depth. The natives of Peru and Chili have several expedients for crossing these glens; and dangers at which every European shudders involuntarily, custom has taught them to regard with indifference. One of their most common methods is to throw a sort of hanging bridge from mountain to mountain, composed principally of the strongest fibres of the agave, strengthened with reeds and cane, and protected with a slight rail-work,

or border of the same materials. Over this frail path- ANDES. way the Indian darts with alacrity, when unloaded; or, swung to and fro by the blast, hums his national tunes Modes of as he conveys the trembling traveller on his back, and passing contemplates, unmoved, the awful abyss below. Hum- them. boldt crossed the Quebrada of Chota, on his approach to Quito, and found it of the enormous depth of 4,950 feet. In the interior it was very sultry. That of Cutaco, at the bottom of which runs a river of the same name, is 4,300 feet in perpendicular descent. These regions have their travelling porters, or cargueros, generally blacks, or mulattoes, who devote themselves to the assistance of passengers over the mountains, and will sometimes carry and climb with them for miles. They will bear from 15 to 18 stone, for eight or nine hours in the day, without complaining; or convey the traveller in a chair, on their naked back, until it is worn and chafed through the skin, like that of an over-worked beast of burden. The remuneration expected by these poor wretches is trifling in the extreme. In particular places the rocks approach to an incon- Natural siderable distance; and at Icononzo, in the new king- bridges. dom of Granada, is a natural bridge over one of these clefts, which is 50 feet long, by about 40 feet broad, and rising nearly 300 feet above the fine river Summa Paz, which occupies its bottom. Sixty feet down is another arch, formed of three sloping blocks of stone that seem to have been dislodged from above, and wedged together in their fall. The thickness of the upper arch is about eight feet.

The most difficult passage in the whole of the Cor- Pass of the dilleras of the Andes is, according to Humboldt, that mountain of of the mountain of Quindiu, in New Granada; and his Quindiu. own account of this memorable part of his journey will give the reader a lively impression of the scene:

"It is a thick uninhabited forest," says he," which Humbolt's in the finest season cannot be traversed in less than narrative. ten or twelve days. Not even a hut is to be seen, nor can any means of subsistence be found. Travellers at all times of the year furnish themselves with a month's provision, since it often happens that, by the melting of the snows, and the sudden swell of the torrents, they find themselves so circumstanced, that they can descend neither on the side of Carthago, nor that of Ibague. The highest point of the road, the Garito del Paramo, is 11,500 feet above the level of the sea. As the foot of the mountain, towards the banks of the Cauca, is only 3,150 feet, the climate there is generally mild and temperate. The path-way which forms the passage of the Cordilleras is only 12 or 15 inches in breadth, and has the appearance, in several places, of a gallery dug, and left open to the sky. In this part of the Andes, as almost in every other, the rock is covered with a thick stratum of clay. The streamlets which flow down the mountains have hollowed out gullies about 20 feet deep. Along these crevices, which are full of mud, the traveller is forced to grope his passage; the darkness of which is increased by the thick vegetation that covers the opening above. The oxen, which are the beasts of burden commonly used in this country, can scarcely force their way through these galleries, some of which are more than a mile in length; and if, perchance, the traveller meets them in one of these passages, he finds no means of avoiding them but by turning back, and climbing the earthen wall which borders the crevice, and keeping himself suspended by