แ ing towards the Stor Horungen. The Jora Elv, which we had crossed near Dombaas, flows between the Stor Horungen and Hundsjö Fjeldet; then on its left banks are the mountains called Sjung Hö" and the "Tvoraatind," and on the right the " Mjugsjö Hö," "Skreda Hö," and beyond are the wilds of the "Snchotten. The Jora Elv falls into the Logan near Dombaas. This extensive tract of mountain, forest, lake, and river is as yet, we believe, little known to anglers. We bought twelve eggs from a peasant woman for twelve skillings; a boy brought six trout, which we also bought for twelve skillings. We confess to feelings of melancholy that, with three fly-rods and an immense stock of flies, in a country like Norway, we should so far lower our dignity as a sportsman as to buy trout. Still four hungry people to be fed much influenced the purchase. We hoped for better things, which might remove this passing shadow from the annals of our angler's life. It occurred to us to go to church, but there was the uncertainty as to the time the services commenced, and whether there would be any service on that particular Sunday. In some districts service is only held on occasional Sundays, as we remember to have been the case in some parishes in Wales. The country churches are built of wood; we only met with one exception. No church bells in the valley sounded over the waters of the lake. A large number of peasants congregated round us as we sat down on a rock; wherever we moved there they came. As we lounged about near our tents, and looked round at the peasants of all sizes and ages, females with children in their arms, young girls and ragged boys wandering after us through the rocky mazes of the broken KJÖLEN FJELDENE. 211 ground, like a comet's tail, but not quite so luminous, we resigned ourselves to our fate. The peasants seemed as interested as usual, and we conversed as well as we could with them. They are a friendly, kind people. One boy spoke English very fairly, though he had never been in England; there was an intelligence about him which pleased us. Several questions were propounded, one was whether we had grapes in England--if we had much fruit-whether we could fish free-what kind of winter we had in England-if we had been in France and Germany? The boy was much astonished when we told him we had not only been to France and Germany, but all round the world. The boy was told, if he would come to our camp in the evening, he should have an English book as a present. Notwithstanding frequent solicitations that we would give them some music, we remained firm, and gave our reasons. They asked if we had any objection to a peasant playing. They were told to please themselves, so that it was not close to our tents. The peasant had a large, powerful, fine-toned accordion, and, if it had not been Sunday, we should have managed a pleasant concert. Noah and Zachariah had leave of absence till three o'clock; they returned at half-past two o'clock. Having crossed the lake in a boat, they had been for a ramble on the "Kjölen Fjeldene." A peasant boy had offered them the use of the boat if we stayed a day longer. Our dinner consisted of six fish and five eggs, fried in oil, with black bread and tea. Though our visitors were then reduced to about twenty-five persons, at three o'clock there were again fresh arrivals; one peasant woman brought the donkeys fresh grass. They hurried up in parties, perspiring in the warm sun, inquiring for "den asen." Then they hastened as fast as they could over the rocks to where they were. Endless discussions were held over them; our poor donkeys must have been much astonished at their sudden importance. CHAPTER XIX. SERENADE. Thy gipsy-eye, bright as the star This heart with rapture fill. Thy brow, unmarked by lines of care, At moonlight's stilly hour. ESMERALDA AT THE LAKE-OUR CADEAU-THE VISITORS-DISAPPOINT NOR MENT-AN ADONIS-THE SILENT VISIT-THE OLD MILL-A WEGIAN FOX--THE PURU RAWNEE'S FALL-THE FOREST SCENEZACHARIAH'S TORMENT-UNDER DISCIPLINE-MUSIC IN THE FOREST-DISTANT ADMIRERS-THE ENGLISH HUNTER'S GIFT-OUR GIPSIES FISHING-THE MILITIA CAMP-SILENT VISITOR-ORNAMENTAL FLADBRÖD A FOREST CONCERT. SOME of the peasants, especially women, were most anxious to explore the hidden recesses of our tents, but this could not be permitted. Our gipsies were very well conducted, and quiet in their demeanour, as befitted the day. After dinner Esmeralda, who had washed and dressed herself in her robe with silver buttons, accompanied us for a quiet stroll to the shores of the lake; her brothers were left in charge of the tents. The distance was not very far. Seated on a wooded knoll above the shores of the lake, we watched its silvery waters and the picturesque outline of the Kjölen mountain; its patches of snow near the summit were not yet melted by the summer's sun. How enjoyable was life in the wild mountains near the smooth lake whose silvered waters seem ever smiling; all seemed in repose as we breathed the pure air of heaven. The lake, we understood, was called the Logan Vand. A peasant woman, at a house near the lake, asked us to come in, both going and returning, but we preferred the open air. After tea, we We returned to tea at about seven o'clock. A large number of peasants were scattered in all directions about our camp and round the donkeys. Four eggs were boiled for our tea, with bread and butter. presented our friend, the boy who spoke "Views of Jerusalem and its Environs." The boy read a passage, viva voce, from it in English with great correctness and good accent; the present pleased him very much, and we were glad we had thought of giving it to him. If we spoke to a peasant a crowd immediately collected round us. It appeared to disappoint them that music was not permitted, but we were quite firm. At nine o'clock we wished them good night; still they remained, and a large number kept wandering round our tents. Some few lighted a fire of juniper; the smoke blew towards our tents, and Noah rushed out with an alpenstock and put it out. |