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ters to his friends, and which belongs | dure, like the marks of a soiled foot on a rich merely to the introductory portion of the carpet ; or by the dykes and channels which con
vey the life-giving waters through the thirsty volume :
land. This is the Land of Egypt, and this is the
memorial of the yearly flood. Up those black E GYPT.
terraces, over those green fields, the water rises The eastern sky was red with the early dawn: and descends ; we were on the broad waters of the Nile-or rather, its Rosetta branch. The first thing which
"Et viridem Ægyptum nigra fæcundat arena struck me was its size. Greater than the Rhine, And not only when the flood is actually there, Rhone, or Danube, one perceives what a sea-like but throughout the whole year, is water con. stream it must have appeared to Greeks and tinually ascending through innumerable wheels Italians, who had seen nothing larger than the nar. worked by naked figures, as the Israelites of old row and precarious torrents of their own moun. “ in the service of the field," and then flowing on tains and valleys As the light broke, its colour in gentle rills through the various allotments. To gradually revealed itself, - brown like the Tiber, the seeds of these green fields, to the fishes of the only of a darker and richer hue-no strong cur wide river, is attached another natural pheno. rent, only a slow, vast, volume of water, mild menon, which I never saw equalled :-the num. and beneficent as his statue in the Vatican, bers numberless, of all manner of birds-vul. steadily flowing on between its two almost uni. tures, and cormorants, and geese, flying like form banks, which rise above it much like the constellations through the blue heavens ; pelibanks of a canal, though in some places with
cans standing in long array on the water side; terraces or strips of earth, marking the succes. hoopoos and ziczacs, and the (so-called) white sive stages of the flood.
ibis, the gentle symbol of the god Osiris in his These banks form the horizon on either side, robes of white, walking under one's very feet. and therefore you can have no notion of the country beyond; but they are varied by a suc. COLOSSAL STATUES OF THEBES. cession of eastern scenes-villages of mud, like ant-hills, with human beings creeping about,
No written account has given me an adequate like ants, except in uumbers and activity-mostly, impression of the effect, past and present, of the however, distinguished by the minaret of a well. colossal figures of the Kings. What spires are built mosque, or the white oven-like dome of a to a modern city,—what the towers of a cathe. sheykh's tomb; mostly, also, screened by a grove dral are to its nave and choir,--that the statues of palms, sometimes intermixed with feathery of the Pharaohs were to the streets and temples tamarisks, and the thick foliage of the carob. of Thebes The ground is strewed with their tree or the sycamore. Verdure, where it is visi. fragments : there were avenues of them tower. ble, is light green, but the face of the bank is ing high above plain and houses. Three of usually brown. Along the top of the banks gigantic size still remain. One was the granite move, like scenes in a magic lantern, and as if statue of Rameses himself, who sate on the right cut out against the sky, groups of Arabs, with side of the entrance to his palace. By some ex. their two or three asses, a camel, or a buffalo. traordinary catastrophe, the statue has been thus had raised himself up above the whole tirely levelled, and the royal majesty is always world of gods and men.
thrown down, and the Arabs have scooped their THE OBELISK OF HELIOPOLIS.
millstones out of his face, but you can still see This is the first obelisk I have seen standing in what he was,-the largest statue in the world. its proper place, and there it has stood for nearly Far and wide that enormous head must have four thousand years. It is the oldest known in been seen, eyes, mouth, and ears. Far and wide Egypt, and therefore in the world, the father you must have seen his vast hands resting on his of all that have arisen since. It was raised about elephantine knees. You sit on his breast and a century before the coming of Joseph; it has look at the Osiride statues which support the looked down on his marriage with Asenath ; it portico of the temple, and which anywhere else has seen the growth of Moses ; it is mentioned would put to shame even the statues of the by Herodotus; Plato sate under its shadow : of cherubs in St. Peter's—and they seem pigmies all the obelisks which sprung up around it, it before him. His arm is thicker than their whole alone has kept its first position One by one, it bodies. The only part of the temple or palace has seen its sons and brothers depart to great at all in proportion to him must have been the destinies elsewhere. From these gardens came gateway, which rose in pyramidal towers, now the obelisks of the Lateran, of the Vatican, broken down, and rolling in a wild ruin down to and of the Porta del Popolo ; and this venerable the plain. pillar (for so it looks from a distance) is now Nothing which now exists in the world can almost the only landmark of the great seat of the give any notion of what the effect must have wisdom of Egypt.
been when he was erect. Nero towering above Immediately above the brown and blue waters the Colosseum may hare been something like it; of the broad, calm, lake-like river, rises a thick, but he was of bronze, and Rameses was of solid black bank of clod or mud, mostly in terraces granite. Nero was standing without any object; Green-unutterably green-mostly at the top of Rameses was resting in awful majesty after the these banks, though sometimes creeping down conquest of the whole of the then known world. to the water's edge, lies the Land of Egypt. No one who entered that building, whether it Green-unbroken, save by the, mud villages were temple or palace, could bave thought of which here and there lie in the midst of the ver. anything else but that stupendous being who
represented by making the king, not like Saul or And when from the statue you descend to the Agamemnon, from the head and shoulders, but palace, the same impression is kept up. It is the from the foot and ankle upwards, higher than earliest instance of the enshrinement in art of the rest of the people. the historical glories of a nation, such as Ver- It carries one back to the days " when there sailles. Everywhere the King is conquering, were giants on the earth." It shows how the worshipping, ruling. The Palace is the Temple king, in that first monarchy, was the visible god -the king is priest. But everywhere the same upon earth. The only thing like it that has since colossal proportions are preserved He and his been seen is the deification of the Roman em. horses are ten times the size of the rest of the perors No pure Monotheism could for a mo. army. Alike in battle and in worship he is of ment have been compatible with such an intense the same stature as the gods themselves. Most exaltation of the conquering king. “I am Pba. striking is the familiar gentleness with which-roah ; " " By the life of Pharoah ; " " Say unto one on each side-they take him by each hand, Pharoah, Whom art thou like in thy greatness ?" as one of their own order, and then in the next Gen. xli. 44 ; xlii. 15, 16; Ezek. xxxi 2-all these compartment introduce him to Ammon and the expressions seem to acquire new life from the lion-headed goddess. Every distinction, except sight of this monster statue. of degree, between divinity and royalty, is en.
A PEEP ACROSS THE CHANNEL.
(Concluded from page 244.) 1 SHOULD like to end my “peep” in the old | brows and sharp noses, who had the faculty hall of the University of Leyden—to close of proving to a demonstration points which my eyes gazing on the portraits on its no one either believed or could contrawalls-fall asleep, and awake anywhere dict; and weak, though proud-looking except in a late debate of the General men were there, who made sonorousness Assembly. But that is a matter of taste pass for sepse, orthodoxy for religion, and more than of principle; and to be fully “dignified silence” the defence of their awake in such circumstances would be ignorance, and the graceful escape from rare in those days.
their perplexities. There seemed to be The portraits are of the great profes- God-loving men also among them, with sors who, as members chiefly (I believe) giant brows and childlike eyes. Arminius of the theological faculty, have made -how good and mild he looked !--was Leyden illustrious since it became a uni- there, with some of his followers, and versity. Of course I requested my guide Calvinists side by side. How these sects to withdraw, that, all alone, I might get a fought while on earth! and most zealwhiff from the past amidst the deep ously in that land of ditches, sluggish repose of that ghost-like old hall. There canals, wheeling windmills, and dead were profound scholars there, like Scal- flats. Great often was their mutual hate, inger; men of science, like Boerhaave; too, in arguing about the love of God to and divines, like Arminius ; and also, no some or to all. There were martyrs in doubt, the usual per centage of those Holland to the five points, and the Synod whose names have gone amissing, except of Dort was well-nigh as dogmatic and to antiquaries, among the dust of books exclusive as the Council of Trent. and churchyards. Some easy men were These good men are now in heaven. there, with doubleching and single wit, who Looking at their portraits I was inclined transmitted faithfully to the next genera- to ask: "I wonder, fathers and brethren, tion what they got from the past, all if you even now understand the mystewrapped up in a white napkin, never ries about which you divided families and opened by themselves, and who were aw- churches ? Are the decrees or foreknowfully solemn in their rebukes of any stud- ledge yet comprehended by you in relaent who profanely suggested an examina- tion to man's responsibility and free will?” tion of the contents, lest they should have Come, let us breathe the air! The become mouldy by time and damp; and figures begin to move on the walls, and logical-looking men were there, with knit we may have the dispute renewed, each ready to begin where he left off, finding shall this inborn appetite be fed ? Shall that no one since their day had thrown it be treated as a crime, and handed over any additional light upon it. The Dutch to Satan; or shall it be made to minChurch is strictly Calvinistic in its creed. ister to man's happiness according to As to its practice, I believe fifty out of a God's will ? Shall it be pent up until it thousand clergy, believe and preach the gathers strength to burst all the barriers divinity of Christ. The Church has be- of law and decency, and rush in annual come the tomb of a dead Redeemer. floods of wild and unbridled passion; or
One word about Leyden before we shall society recognise its necessity, perleave it. It contains one of the most, if ceive how full of goodness and benevolnot the most, magnificent museums of ence it is, and adopt such wise plans as natural history in the world. The great will run it off in gentle rills, week by naturalist, Temminck, has helped greatly week, or even day by day, to freshen and to arrange and enrich this superb col- irrigate the earth, and make our fields lection. Professor Von A-'s family more green and beautiful ? are not forgotten, but remembered with Those who can adjust the demand for gratitude.
excitement to the other and higher deThe Hague, or Gravenhaven, is unques- mands for man's nature and life, will tionably the most pleasing town in Hol- confer an inestimable boon on society. land. The park, with its massy noble All classes require their amusements to trees, gives it a picturesqueness and be reformed, not reduced; spread over, not beauty not found elsewhere. These trees concentrated; directed, not annihilated ; are the mountain ranges of Holland. and taken out of the kingdom of Satan Except a few steeples, there is nothing and brought into the well ordered and higher.
beautifully balanced kingdom of Christ on There was the annual kermiss or great earth. A danger from all extremes is to fair the week I was there. It would be be found in their opposites. When the unprofitable to my readers to describe at swing is highest on one side, look out for any length those Dutch saturnalia. With broken heads and falls on the other. a few exceptions, they were like every One cause of the tendency to pervert the other of the same class; innumerable Sabbath from a holy day to a holiday, is booths, many of them got up with won the incessant toil, barren of hours of derful taste and beauty, merchandise of rest, and of all amusement and gentle all sorts, theatres, shows, horsemanship, excitement, during the week. The bouts giants and dwarfs, gambling, drinking, of hard drinking indicate many previous tons of toys, tubs of pickles, crowds of days of parched thirst. men, women, and children, dissipation of Let us leave the crowd of the fair, and all sorts night and day. The Dutch are go to Scheveling, on the sea-coast, about proverbially douce, sober, and formal; half-an-hour's drive from the Hague, and they have few amusements or excitements the only bathing quarters of the capital. on week days; their Sabbaths are, out- We drove along a road straight as an wardly, almost as well kept as in Scot- arrow, with trees on each side, and at the land. But when such a holiday as a end of which was a village intensely red, kermiss comes round, it seems generally nestled beneath a ridge of sandhills, understood among the working classes, which sheltered it from the ocean. We and even domestic servants, that a gene- ascended these dunes, and reached a café ral indulgence is proclaimed for every on the sea-side, which sprung out of the vice. This is just what one would ex- sand like an Egyptian tomb, and almost pect. It is so with many in Scotland on as empty of living inhabitants. The day our new-year's days, and some of our was cold, and the whole prospect infairs. Men will have amusement and ex- tensely dreary and comfortless ;-fine citement, as certain as the ocean will sand drifting like snow before the cuthave its spring tides, and the world its ting sea-blast, - the sea brown, gurly, summer flowers and summer songs. How and sulky-looking; rows of Dutch fishing boats arranged along the beach, world and lay world, with the world, their rotund sterns turned towards Great whether seen in presbyteries or ParliaBritain,-the café containing only piles ments, in synagogues or senates. The of chairs and benches, which prophesied huge shams and humbugs hate the honest of crowds yet to come,-We saw but one men and true,--and there are none so waiter, and nothing more cheering than fierce and unscrupulous as those who Schiedam.-Such was Scheveling. think that they are doing God a service,
There is much in the Hague to interest while serving their own passions: one. There are many pleasing and un- I liked right well to see in the Museum defined memories from the past, of “our of the Hague the arms, clothes, &c., of ambassador at the Hague,"_" letters such men as De Ruyter and Van Tromp from the Hague,"_“ministers who took the Lord St. Vincents and “mighty refuge at the Hague,"--and though it Nelsons" of Holland. The nation, like was difficult, perhaps, to recal much the family, is God's blessed and wise about any one ambassador, letter, or ordinance, and its independence should be minister, in particular, yet you felt defended with its last drop of blood ! pleased in knowing that if the Hague And therefore one of the greatest gifts could speak, and those old houses tell God gives a nation is that of great heroes, their story, it would be worth listening men who will “hazard their lives unto to. It had the interest of an old man death” for their country, who will “wax who had seen strange things in his day, valiant in fight,” and “put to flight the but was not communicative. Then there armies of the aliens.” Noble fellows was for the present a royal family that I were De Ruyter and Van Tromp! Even knew nothing about; and Paul Potter's England was afraid of them. Greater bull, with other pictures which the whole were they than our big talking and world know something about, and which small doing admirals of the present day. were all worthy of those great artists, who I heard Mr. Boucher preach at the had indeed eyes to see, hearts to feel, and Hague. He is a minister of the French hands to execute ; and there were many Protestant Church, and some years ago other things which were associated with electrified the General Assembly by the historical names and events that can unusual eloquence of his address. He is dever die, such as the house, the prison, now chaplain to the king of Holland. and place of murder of the great De The royal family were in church, and Witt,—the house and place of execution generally attend his ministry, for wbich, of the greater Barnevelt. Alas! may it is said, they have the greatest admirawe not pause and mark how often in the tion. Mr. Boucher is in every respect a history of this fallen race of ours, these two very remarkable man. He is the superior things go together-great men and mur- of even Adolphe Monod in depth and dered men ! Truly hath Coleridge said :- range of thought, and especially in width of " How seldom doth a good man get what he sympathy with an educated French audimerits,
ence, but his inferior in the depth of re How seldom doth he merit what he gets !"
ligious feeling and experience, in which It must be so until the kingdom comes ! Monod stands alone in France. Monod, The clay world is not capable of under. when he dies,-and alas ! we fear he is standing genius, unless it makes itself on his deathbed, will have no second in “ useful,” by working in clay, to supply France except Boucher. A little more the world with bowls and basons ; the sel- subduedness, willingness to be led as a fish world cannot believe in the unselfish-child, and, if it be God's will, to be like ness of the truly great; the proud yet his Master despised and rejected of little world cannot brook superiority; the men, and Boucher will be spiritually, hating world cannot admire love; and as he now is intellectually, the most so in all ages hath it been. The world powerful and eloquent preacher in the “ loves its own,” and hates those who Reformed Church of France. It is alare not of it. It is so with the clerical / leged that the Paris preachers are jealous,
not only of his great talents, but more ing like mad bulls over the earth, as especially of his great boldness and inde Carlisle would say, “from the inane to pendence of thought in political matters, the inane again," but could quietly and hence his being at the Hague instead browse and chew their cud,--all this made of the capital of his own country. But the sail from the Hague to Delft singuhis time is coming!
larly pleasing. I could not learn that there were any Delft itself has now no manufacture of great preachers or men of any rank in “Delft ware," as far as I know. But the Church of Holland. The evangelical crockery is not at best interesting to me, party is, I am inclined to think, in every Hugo Grotius or De Grot, on whose respect small; the heterodox party for- honoured grave I stood at Delft, bearing mal and dead
the inscription,—“Ingang tot de Graff What a charming thing it is to voyage Kelder Von Hugo de Grot;" the house by a trackshuyt along the canals. What where the good and great William was perfect repose; what placid enjoyment; shot; the hospitable home of good what rest in motion; what an epitome of Madame E-t, where I dined, are all I Holland, and what a contrast to England recollect of Delft. Then came Rotterdam or America ! The sunny canal, the quietly at night, the steamer in the mooring, the trotting horse, the regular and orderly ocean at mid-day and next night; London succession of Dutch gardens, Dutch vil in the morning, with Blackwall and the las, and Dutch comfort, the sense of weary custom house. Then farewells to having nothing whatever to do, or rail- my travelling companions, the best ever roads could not be so despised, -—a glory man had; then home. So ended my last from the past, when men were not rush- | Peep across the Channel.
"THE PEOPLE'S DAY."
A LONDON AND PARISIAN SABBATH.
day. In Brick Lane no drays are rolling,
po whips cracking; it is the drayman's “Suppose that next Sunday morning your day. In new streets no shoulder bears a Lordship started from Charing Cross for hod, no hand is on the trowel ; it is the a walk through London, which your bricklayer's day. At the wharves no honourable helpers in the late debate figure bends under a load; it is the thought had such need to take a lesson porter's day, the coalheaver's day. from continental cities. In the vicinity Surely your lordship does not bear withof Trafalgar Square you find no shop- in you a heart which, reviewing all this, men or shopwomen behind the counter ; would not fill with emotion, and thank it is the assistant's day. At the Na- God.! Surely, as your thoughts passed tional Gallery no porter is in waiting; it over the three kingdoms, and you markis the official's day. In Long-Acre the ed the millions of labourers, from little coachmakers' workshops are silent; it is girls to wrinkled men, who, for the the mechanic's day. In Lincoln's Inn moment, with no master over them but Fields the lawyers' offices are peaceful; the Almighty, rested safe from the call it is the clerk's day. In the Strand and of the covetous, the thoughtless, or the Printing House Square the offices of the cruel, you would say, 'He spake well great daily journals are at least partially who called that institution “ a delight, at rest; it is the pressman's and com- the holy of the Lord, honourable,' positor's day, the reporter's day, the whereby these eyes are enabled to see editor's day. At the Post-Office no car this touching image of a world where is clattering, no man hurrying; it is the “the wicked cease from troubling, and carrier's day. In Cheapside and Wood the weary are at rest!”. Surely you Street no warehouse is open ; it is the could not, then, look without compassalesman's day. At the Bank no pen is sion on those who, in low shops and on moving; it is the clerk's day. In Spit- railways, say, "To us this is not the alfields no foot is upon the treadle, no Lord's day, it is our master's day!' hand upon the shuttle; it is the weaver's “At the same hour on the following
* By William Arthur, A.M. London : Hamil. Sunday your Lordship starts for a similar ton, Adams, & Co.,
walk in Paris. The moment you leave