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1861.]

Torpor of Papal Government.

237

with gas.

negotiate with. If anything is proposed to him which his confessor affirms to be dangerous to his soul, he listens to no arguments. As for Mortara himself, he is a poor creature. A friend of mine went to see him in his convent. All that he could get from him was :

"“ Sono venuti i Carabinieri.”
"“ And what did they do to you?"
"“M' hanno portato quì.”
«« What more?”
' M'hanno dato pasticci; erano molto buoni.”

"What is most teasing,' continued Ampère, 'in the Roman Government is not so much its active oppression as its torpidity. It hates to act. An Englishman had with great difficulty obtained permission to light Rome

He went to the Government in December, and told them that everything was ready, and that the gas would be lighted on the ist of January.

““Could you not,” they answered, “put it off till April ?”

““But it is in winter," he replied ; "that it is wanted. Every thing is ready. Why should we wait?”

“It is a new thing,” they replied ; “people will be frightened. It may have consequences.

have consequences. At least put it off till March."

““But they will be as much frightened in March," he replied.

“If it must be done,” they said, “as a kindness to His Holiness and to us put it off till February."

•There is, however, one sort of oppression which even we should find it difficult to tolerate.

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'A Monsignore has a young friend without money, but an excellent Catholic and an excellent politician, a fervid believer in the Immaculate Conception and in the excellence of the Papal Government. He wishes to reward such admirable opinions : but the Pope has little to give. Monsignore looks out for some young heiress, sends for her father, describes his pious and loyal protégé, and proposes marriage. Her father objects-says that his daughter cannot afford to marry a poor man, or that she does not wish to marry at all—or that he or she has some other preference.

' Monsignore insists. He assures the father that what he is proposing is most favourable to the salvation of his daughter, that he suggests it principally for the benefit of her soul, and that the father's objections are inspired by the Evil One. The father breaks off the conversation and goes home. He finds that his daughter has disappeared. He returns furious to Monsignore, is received with the utmost politeness and is informed that his daughter is perfectly safe under the protection of a cardinal who himself did her the honour of fetching her in his gilded coach. “You have only,” the Monsignore says, “to be reasonable, and she shall be returned to

you."

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• The father flies to the cardinal.
• The same politeness and the same answer.

«« Do not oppose,” he is told, “the will of the Pope, who, in this matter, seeks only your daughter's happiness here and hereafter. She is now with me. If you will give up your sinful obstinacy she shall be restored to

1861.]

French Untidiness.

239

you to-day. If not, it will be our duty to place her in a convent, where she will be taken the utmost care of, but she will not leave it except to marry the person whom His Holiness thinks most fitted to promote the welfare of her soul.”

* I have known several cases in which this attempt has been made. With such timid slaves as the Roman nobility it always succeeds.'

Thursday, August 15.-This is the fête of St. Louisthe great fête of Tocqueville. Madame de Tocqueville and Madame de Beaumont spent much of the morning in church.

Beaumont and his son walked to the coast to bathe. Minnie, Ampère, and I strolled among the deep shady lanes of the plateau above the castle. Throughout Normandy the fields are small and are divided by mounds planted with trees. The farmhouses, and even the cottages, are built of primitive rock, granite, or old red sandstone. At a distance, peeping out of the trees that surround them, they look pretty, but they have more than the usual French untidiness. Thé out-houses are roofless, the farmyards are full of pools and dung heaps, which often extend into the road ; and the byroads themselves are quagmires when they do not consist of pointed stones. I was struck by the paucity of the children and the absence of new houses. The population of Normandy is diminishing. We conversed on the subject of Italy.

If we are in Rome next winter,' I asked, shall we find the French there?'

'A Monsignore has a young friend without money, but an excellent Catholic and an excellent politician, a fervid believer in the Immaculate Conception and in the excellence of the Papal Government. He wishes to reward such admirable opinions : but the Pope has little to give. Monsignore looks out for some young heiress, sends for her father, describes his pious and loyal protégé, and proposes marriage. Her father objects-says that his daughter cannot afford to marry a poor man, or that she does not wish to marry at all—or that he or she has some other preference.

Monsignore insists. He assures the father that what he is proposing is most favourable to the salvation of his daughter, that he suggests it principally for the benefit of her soul, and that the father's objections are inspired by the Evil One. The father breaks off the conversation and goes home. He finds that his daughter has disappeared. He returns furious to Monsignore, is received with the utmost politeness and is informed that his daughter is perfectly safe under the protection of a cardinal who himself did her the honour of fetching her in his gilded coach. “You have only,” the Monsignore says, "to be reasonable, and she shall be returned to

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you."

• The father flies to the cardinal.
• The same politeness and the same answer.

"“Do not oppose,” he is told, “the will of the Pope, who, in this matter, seeks only your daughter's happiness here and hereafter. She is now with me.

If you will give up your sinful obstinacy she shall be restored to

1861.]

French Untidiness.

239

you to-day. If not, it will be our duty to place her in a convent, where she will be taken the utmost care of, but she will not leave it except to marry the person whom His Holiness thinks most fitted to promote the welfare of her soul.”

*I have known several cases in which this attempt has been made. With such timid slaves as the Roman nobility it always succeeds.'

Thursday, August 15.-- This is the fête of St. Louisthe great fête of Tocqueville. Madame de Tocqueville and Madame de Beaumont spent much of the morning in church.

Beaumont and his son walked to the coast to bathe. Minnie, Ampère, and I strolled among the deep shady lanes of the plateau above the castle. Throughout Normandy the fields are small and are divided by mounds planted with trees. The farmhouses, and even the cottages, are built of primitive rock, granite, or old red sandstone. At a distance, peeping out of the trees that surround them, they look pretty, but they have more than the usual French untidiness. The out-houses are roofless, the farmyards are full of pools and dung heaps, which often extend into the road; and the byroads themselves are quagmires when they do not consist of pointed stones. I was struck by the paucity of the children and the absence of new houses. The population of Normandy is diminishing.

We conversed on the subject of Italy.

"If we are in Rome next winter,' I asked, shall we find the French there?'

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