management, and even with only one copper, the process may be so conducted, that none of the taps need lie any length of time either in the underback or elsewhere, before being conducted to the copper. One boiling, however, is always the safest in summer brewing. Let the brewings be made of shorter lengths, and the more frequent the better, so as that the yeast may be always preserved in good order. With only one copper, three boilings must invariably produce unsoundness to a certain extent, in hot weather. We have, however, encountered individuals so confident in error, as to insist that they must and would brew the same quantities of malt which they had been accustomed to do, and that with only one copper totally inadequate for the purpose; by which mode of proceeding they invariably produced very unsound beer. With smaller brewings of only half the quantity of malt, the worts were boiled in one operation, and the beer turned out well; and the trade did not require more than two of these smaller brewings per week. See "Summer Brewing." 174 ONE COPPER TWO BOILINGS. A Brewing with only one Copper, containing twenty-five Barrels where two Boilings are necessary. THE great desideratum, in this case, is to get on with the process with the least possible delay, and to let no part of the worts remain longer than is absolutely necessary, between the mash-tun and the copper. As beer of from 24 to 27 lbs. gravity per barrel is now very generally wanted, we shall take here 24 lbs. for our standard, having no mashing-machine. The copper having been previously brought to boil, the water should now be cooled to a temperature of 180°, by adding what may be necessary of cold water for that purpose. Eight quarters of tolerably good malt standing in sacks near the mashtun, weight 40 lbs. per bushel. ing. Commence brewing at seven o'clock in the morn Let run into mash-tun 14 barrels at 180°; stir it about until it gets down to 170°; then turn your malt into the tun, sack by sack, thoroughly mixing it with oars and rakes, as you proceed. If the mash should become too stiff for working, run one barrel or two barrels, if found necessary, from under the false bottom of your mash-tun into the mash; this will enable you to infuse all your malt. Now get on your fire until your water in the copper reaches 185°, when you may damp the fire so as to be acquiring a little more heat; it is necessary, during this time, to be going on mashing, and for some one to break with a stick, or any other instrument which may be applicable for the purpose, all the lumps or knots of uninfused malt, as they are brought up to the surface. Now turn on from the copper, still from under the false bottom, letting the water run very gently, (and still mashing, now as vigorously as possible, so as to diffuse the heat more regularly,) until the milky white appearance of the extract has disappeared, and been succeeded by greater transparency, when you may let the water run more quickly. In a short time the mash will be covered with a white froth; the extract is now thoroughly made. Let your liquor run, and keep mashing until you have turned over, in all, twenty-four barrels, or three barrels per quarter, when, after mashing about ten minutes longer, at the same time going round the bottom of the mash-tun with your oars, you may cover up the mash. Since writing the above in the first edition, it has been found that covering up the mash so as to prevent the escape of steam is injurious, as can be easily proved. All this should occupy a space of not more than three-quarters of an hour. Let the mash stand an hour and a-half or less, then let the worts run, not over quickly, into the under-back. You should, in the mean time, have your copper charged with liquor for next mash; and should any boiling liquor be wanted for scalding your utensils, &c., now is the time to procure it. When the mash-tun has been quite drained off, take for your second mash only the necessary quantity of liquor to make up your first boiling. You should have in the under-back not more than sixteen or seventeen barrels, your malt not having been of first-rate quality. Let four barrels, therefore, run gently over the top of the malt, sprinkling it all over, either from a canvas hose or a spargingmachine, if you have got one. As soon as the liquor disappears through the grains, which will be very shortly, let it run into the under-back, making twenty-one barrels for first boiling. Go on now as quickly as possible with your third mash; let twelve barrels, at any temperature not exceeding 170°, or below 150°, run over the goods, as before directed, and "immediately get your first worts into the copper, at the same time carrying on the fire as briskly as possible, add 52 lbs. of hops, or two lbs. per barrel for the quantity of beer to be produced." We return again to the mash-tun. If the water has all disappeared, and the grains are floating on the surface, no mashing is necessary; if not, they must be again roused by mashing. Let this mash stand until your first worts begin to boil, then let them run gently, so as to keep pace nearly with your boiling; when drained off, take cold liquor to make up your second worts, and to wash out any little saccharine matter remaining in the grains. In this case, sprinkle four barrels over the grains, and let it run briskly as Multiply 26 lbs. by 21 bls., making 546 Leaving, of real gravity in gyle-tun 55 491 After boiling, and the loss in quantity by evaporation and condensation on the coolers, we find that we should have in the gyle-tun 16 barrels at 31 lbs. gravity, or 496. On gauging the second worts in the copper, we find 17 barrels of 8 lbs. gravity, at 60°. Multiply 17 by 8, making.........136 Deduct, as before, 10 per cent. 14 122 Add 28 lbs. from hops of 1st worts 28 Br. Fir. Div. by required grav. pr. bl. 24)646(26 3 leaving out fractional parts. We have sixteen barrels of first worts, and there N |