been properly softened, and often the oil treatment will be sufficient for all practical purposes.

The following recipe is given as a good preservative for leather. It is composed of six parts of spermaceti, eighteen parts of beeswax, five parts of asphalt varnish, five parts black vine twig, two parts Prussian blue, one part nitrobenzol, one part powdered borax and sixty-six parts of oil of turpentine. The wax is melted and the borax is added, after which the mixture is stirred until a jellylike mass is formed. In another pan the spermaceti is melted, the varnish (which has been previously mixed with the turpentine) is added, and the mass stirred well and added to wax mixture in the other vessel. The color is the last ingredient added, this having been previously rubbed smooth with a little of the mixture. The material is applied with a brush about once a week, in small quantities, and is wiped well with a soft cloth to polish after application. Another formula for giving new life to leather tops or upholstery is given as follows:

The first step in preparing this mixture is to dissolve the sandarac, dark resin, gum resin and shellac in the alcohol; next the aniline black is added, and finally the lamp black, which has been ground to a paste with a little of the liquid, is mixed in. After the whole has been thoroughly mixed it is filtered. This is applied to the top or upholstery with a brush and is polished with a soft cloth.

On genuine leather tops, upholstery, and for the leather · straps holding the top, applications of a good grade of harness oil are often sufficient. The following will be found an effective mixture:

The lamp black is mixed with the turpentine and the neatsfoot oil, and the vaseline is thinned by heating it, and the ingredients are mixed by shaking together. When the mixture cools it will be in the form of a grease or paste, which is rubbed well into the leather to be preserved or softened.

If a car has been used on a wet or stormy day, the top should be kept up until it is thoroughly dry, as if it is inserted in the top case or folded while wet the lining might mildew or rot. In folding tops care should be taken to have the folds even and to have as few wrinkles as possible. The various bows comprising the framework of the top should be separated by small rubber pads and the whole firmly strapped together by leather bands applied at each side of the folded top frame to prevent rattle.

Upholstery is usually preserved by slip covers of various grades of cloth applied to the cushions and to the backs of the seats. As most cushions and seat backs are upholstered with leather, or the various fabrics imitating it, the same dressings that have been recommended for tops may be used to advantage in treating the cushions and seat backs. In some of the higherpriced cars, especially of the closed body form, various grades of broadcloth, Bedford cord, or other textile fabrics are used. When these become dirty they must be treated very carefully and by an experienced cleaner, because ordinary methods of removing grease spots will cause unsightly discolorations of the fine fabrics. Where high-grade upholstery materials are used, slip covers are really necessary. These should be kept in place at all times that the passengers are in ordinary street or business dress, but may be removed and the clean upholstery used at such times that it is desirable not to dirty the clothing, as when evening clothes are worn.

Care of Storage Battery. The storage battery is made up of

FILL HERE WITH PURE WATER
TO THE LEVEL OF BOTTOM HOLE

AIR
SPACE IN
EXPANSION
CHAMBER

UNSCREW
VENT PLUG

FILL TO THIS POINT NOT ABOVE

several hard rubber cells or containers for the active plates and liquid electrolyte. The whole is surrounded by a wood casing for mechanical protection and ease in handling. Each individual cell is provided with a screw cap for inspection and the addition of electrolyte or distilled water when necessary. The electrolyte must at all times cover the tops of the plates at least one quarter inch. Insufficient electrolyte will result in warped or buckled plates, and an accumulation of sediment at the bottom of the cells. The battery will be ruined in a short time if the tops of the plates are not kept covered. Each cell must be inspected at least once every week in summer and once every two weeks in winter. All screw caps must be removed and distilled

PLATE

Fig. 67.-Sectional View of Storage Battery Showing Proper Height of Electrolyte in the Cells.

water added to each cell to make up for the natural evaporation. If distilled water cannot be had, use clean rain water which has not come in contact with metal or cement.

Never add acid to the cells of the battery. If part or all of the electrolyte has been lost through accidental spilling or leakage, get full instructions and advice from the maker. An hydrometer, arranged with a rubber bulb to draw a portion of the electrolyte from each cell, furnishes the best indication of the condition of the battery. The hydrometer shows the specific gravity of the electrolyte, which for a fully charged cell should be 1280 on a specific gravity scale. If the car is out of service for a considerable length of time, as when laid up for the winter,

it is necessary to charge the battery at regular intervals. This may be done by running the engine at a car speed of twenty miles per hour for at least one hour every two weeks. If the car is to be stored, and it is not convenient to charge as above, the battery should be removed from the car and placed in a reliable garage to be properly taken care of. If your battery is arranged with terminal posts for the wiring connections these must be examined occasionally to see that they are clean and free from sulphate. The thorough application of a small amount of vaseline at the metal connections to the battery posts will prevent sulphating and consequent corrosion and poor electrical contact at these points.

Tools and Repair Equipment. In equipping a car for the season's use many factors must be considered, as the character of the supplies and spare parts required will vary with the type and make of car, while the tools needed for repairing the mechanism will depend largely upon the mechanical ability of the car owner or the person in charge of the automobile. While a very complete outfit of tools and spare parts would be the best insurance against trouble, it should be remembered that the weight of the tool outfit should be kept to as low a point as possible. As a general rule comparatively few well chosen tools, that would be apt to be used often, would be superior to an indiscriminately selected bulky outfit by one who has no knowledge of the value of the various appliances or how to use them. In modern motor cars it is easy to find storage room for a very complete assortment of tools and supplies, and while some of these may be considered unnecessary there may be a time when it will be invaluable, especially if much touring is contemplated. The first point to consider is selecting the common tools that one would be apt to need, and as a guide a very complete tool roll, such as sold by practically all automobile supply houses at a moderate price, is shown. The choice of a container for tools and supplies is very important, and while the tool roll depicted, which is made of heavy canvas or leather, is very useful, it has the disadvantage of being inconvenient to handle. As it must be unrolled every time certain of the tools would be

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needed, the ground is usually the only available place for its extension and the contents and casing may become very dirty. The writer prefers to use a tool box in which a number of trays are fitted. These are divided into compartments, each tool having a distinct space, and to insure against rattle or injuring the tools the various compartments may be lined with felt or heavy

Fig. 68.-Complete Tool Outfit For Repairing Motor Car Mechanism
That Occupies But Little Space.

cloth. A very good method of making the trays is to have these composed of or filled in with a wooden block, which is recessed to fit the tools to be carried. A container of this nature is superior to others, as the tools needed most often can be placed in the uppermost tray, making them accessible, while in a roll the tools needed most often may be carried in the center. Some motorists throw the tools indiscriminately into a box and the result is that many of the appliances are damaged by coming in contact with other tools. The cutting edges of cold chisels and wire cutters are nicked, the teeth of files become broken or filled up with dirt, and screw driver points may become quickly blunted, and their utility reduced. At the same time the handles