who find profit in furnishing supplies of ship chandlery and sea stores to the many vessels engaged in the Chinese trade. CHAPTER XXI. Dietetic routine among foreign residents at Canton; Comprador; Looking-glass street; City gate; Thinness of Chinese glass; Square in front of the factories; First fruits of millet as an offering; Tea-tasting; Effects of a typhoon; Street decorations; Fa-ti garden; Sha-ming; Propitiation of the fire-god; Chinese dinner; Beggars; Laquered ware; Flies; Dr. Parker's hospital. 21st. By day dawn the ship was surrounded by boats freighted with all things imaginable for sale. The chattering and contention of the women rowing the boats, in the competition to get along side the ship, entertained us; to keep them from boarding in a body, it became necessary to threaten to sink their boats by dropping shot into them. Some of the women were bold enough to clamber into the cabin through the ports, where their laughing, smiling and generally good humored behavior secured them from The manner of living in the East differs the rude expulsion their uncerimonious en- so much from our customs that it is worthy trance had won. The blandishments of these of a note. The large commercial houses Chinese water nymphs are not of a charac- established here employ many clerks, so ter to captivate any but the most susceptible that each one includes a tolerably large famold sea-dogs; and it is believed the gentle- ily. It is not unusual to find from fifteen to men of the cabin were all too hard-hearted twenty at table. A substantial breakfast is to be affected by the very amiable glances of served at eight o'clock, A. M.; at one o'clock their morning visiters. a lunch, called the "Tiffin," which is a very At nine o'clock, A. M., with a party of offi- pleasant meal, consisting of steaks, chops, cers I left the ship in the Fire Fly, a tiny and cold joints, with wine, cheese and beer; steamer, commanded by an enterprising and half past seven or eight o'clock, P. M. American, which plies between Whampoa is usual time for dining. The work of the and Canton, for the accommodation of pas- day is over, and the company, faultlessly sengers at a dollar a head, and of smugglers dressed in white, assembles to dine delibe on terms which were not communicated, rately and to enjoy, and it has not been my though presumed to be agreeable to the high fortune to see in any part of the world dincontracting parties. We puffed along amidst ners more systematically composed, better tea-junks and salt-junks, sampans and fast-cooked, or more elegantly served than at the boats which might number thousands, and in houses of foreigners resident in different about an hour and a half landed in front of parts of Asia. The number of well-trained the foreign factories, in one of which we attendants at table is always a subject of were hospitably received, and entertained for remark by newly arrived strangers. very many days. The "fire-fly" was built The menage of American and European in Boston and brought here on freight. This merchants in China is under the direct manfact indicates the dimensions of the vessel agement of a steward, termed comprador, as well as the appropriateness of her name; who is held responsible by his employer for in size she compares to sea-going ships in the all household affairs. He acts also as cashmanner that a fire-fly compares with the lar- ier or banker for the establishment, and is gest beetles. The energy and activity of our the common medium of intercourse with country are manifest in this first attempt to shopmen, small traders, and servants. The establish a steam line on the Canton river, compradór is consequently a man of imporwhich will do more to extinguish local pre- tance, and often acquires considerable projudices, and extend correct notions about perty through the perquisites of office. He European power and civilization than any commonly receives a small percentage on system of teaching heretofore attempted. all monies which pass through his hands, deThe agency of the steam engine in moral ducted from the face of bills paid by him. and social improvement is a theme worthy A stranger who visits Canton for a few days of a night lecture. on becoming a guest in a mercantile house, deposits his money with the comprador, who us with much curiosity, which, I doubt not, pays his cheques given in payment for what- we reciprocated. ever he may purchase in the streets. From A street, occupied almost exclusively by these cheques the comprador deducts about manufacturers and dealers in mirrors and. one quarter of one per cent, and pays the glass ware is known to foreigners as Lookshopman the balance. When the visitor de- ing-glass street. Here we saw some very parts the comprador settles the account. The gaudy and some pretty paintings on glass, advantage of this custom is very considera- used in the decoration of lanterns of vable, and is both a convenience and a protec- rious forms and dimensions. Every article tion to the stranger visiting the celestial city, differs in form or color from the same thing the denizens of which are famed for ability in the United States. The glass of Chinese in making bargains, with ignorant travellers. mirrors is wonderfully thin; it is often not When the climate is considered, one who much thicker than a coat of varnish might reflects upon the subject, cannot fail to con- be. I obtained some plates not exceeding jecture that the dietetic habits of foreigners an hundredth of an inch in thickness. in China are not well adapted to the preser- We saw shops filled with articles manuvation of health. The consumption of meats, factured of nickel, called here white copper, of various distilled and fermented liquors is and with us German Silver. very much greater than the body requires in August 21st. This is the new year day of hot climates. The organs are exposed to the Pursees, who are celebrating it by exexcessive stimulation, and consequently to ploding fire-crackers and fire-works of vafall into diseased conditions. It is not doubt- rious kinds. The Chinese are preparing for ed that the habits in question are more dele- the feast of lanterns. There is so much terious to the health of foreigners than the presented to the eye, the weather is so hot, persistent high temperature or other quali- and I am so unwell that I despair of making ties of the climate, which is commonly sup- notes of interest. posed to be enervating, and therefore to re- Since my visit to Canton in 1836, the space quire the use of stimulants to counteract its in front of the factories has been extended; influence. Those who have the power to re- a sea wall has been built, and the square has sist temptations of the palate and to live been handsomely laid out and planted with abstemiously, generally speaking, endure a trees. Among other things, there is a little tropical climate very well and enjoy good bunch of millet growing, which is daily visited by a pious Hindoo merchant. He careAugust 29th. After tiffin, accompanied fully watches the progress of its growth that by a friend sojourning here and a cooley to serve as interpreter, I set out in pursuit of very thin glass plates to cover objects viewed under the higher magnifying powers of the microscope. We were led through crowded This square is very beautiful. The walks streets about six feet wide, paved with slabs are covered with chunam, a composition of of granite. The houses on each side are lime, oil and sand, which becomes very hard. two stories high, and most of them are occu- Foreigners walk here of afternoons under pied as shops for the sale of different kinds the shade of the trees for exercise; and very of wares. Oblong strips of white cloth, many of the clerks as a means of relaxation about a foot wide, marked by Chinese char- and exercise pull in boats for an hour before acters, hung from above each one, supposed dinner. The boats are very long, very light, to be the sign-boards of the dealers. Our and of very graceful form. They are built walk led us to one of the city gates, which by Chinese workmen after American or Euwas simply a narrow passage through a thick ropean models, under the direction of memwall, beyond which the street seemed to be bers of the several boat clubs. simply a continuation of that in which we I visited to-day a professional tea-taster. stood. Wherever we stopped we were sur- Tea tasting is a very important vocation; rounded by Chinese, who seemed to regard upon it rests, in a great measure, the pur health. VOL. XIX-54 he may be sure to gather the first fruits as an offering to his God. This morning every head of millet is carefully enveloped in paper that not a seed may be lost. chase of entire cargoes. The decision of age, and some were totally wrecked. The the tea-taster regulates the price the mer-loss of life in the Chinese boats and junks chant pays to the manufacturer. The tea- during the gaie has been very great. The taster examines the qualities of tea in sev- shores of the river through its entire length eral ways. He judges of its sensible pro- to the sea are strewed with wrecks and the perties first by the eye, observing its colour, bodies of those drowned. or twist of the leaf, the thickness and curl and then by its odour. definite quantity in a a sand-glass, and tastes the infusion. By these means he determines the quality of the tea offered for sale. On visiting old and new China streets this Lastly he infuses a morning we found an awning or canopy of definite quantity of muslin stretched between the eaves of the boiling water for five minutes, measured by houses on opposite sides; and many large glass chandeliers are suspended from above over the centre of the streets. At short intervals, festoons of various colored silks and A physician of eminence long resident crapes are stretched from side to side, and here informs me that tea-tasters are very before every house are hung variegated lansubject to consumption of the lungs, which terns. There is also a display of many beauhe attributes to the quantities of tea-dust tiful flowers, and plants trained to grow in constantly inhaled by them while inspecting the shape of dragons and various animals. teas. They have a repugnance to tasting At the end of each square or crossing a green teas which are regarded by them to stage extends across the street, at a sufficient be very poisonous. Tea-tasters of experi- elevation to permit pedestrians to pass beence receive for their services from two to neath. These stages or orchestras are decothree thousand dollars annually. One of rated in the most gaudy and fantastic manSeptember 1st. I was called early this ner that Chinese ingenuity can devise. At morning to observe on the river the effects intervals of about twenty yards are susof a typhoon which has been raging all night. pended across the street, about ten feet above The storm is terrible. Many of the trees in the pavement, oblong boxes or frames which the square are prostrate. The first-fruit of- contain figures about fifteen inches high repfering so carefully watched by the Hindoo resentating dramatic positions. They are has disappeared. Boats and junks are heroic, warlike, amatory and comic. Some adrift and driving against each other, pro- of these representative figures of fierce he ducing havoc and destruction. Many are roes have the eye-balls rolling in a most upset. It is estimated that not less than a ridiculously extravagant manner. thousand persons, men, women and children the frames exhibits a boxing match between have been drowned within reach of our a man and horse, the latter having been just sight; we have not the power to afford to the felled by the fist of the former. The prepoor exposed wretches the smallest assist-parations are still incomplete. ance. People are navigating through the The sedan chair of a rich silk merchant, square in boats. passing through the street, struck against 2nd. The weather is again pleasant. It and demolished a chandelier. The vehicle is reported that the typhoon has caused great was immediately stopped. The merchant destruction of life and property at Hong and little girl of about eight years old got Kong, and at Cumsing-Moon. At the latter out and walked off, leaving the chair cooleys place an English ship, having on board opium to do battle with the outraged mob of Chivalued at $400,000, sunk at her moorings, nese. and nine English and American ships were After tiffin we pulled up the river in a stranded. High praise is awarded on all hong boat, which might be likened, in the hands to the officers and crew of the United opinion of some, to the body of an omnibus States ship Plymouth for their exertions to decorated in Chinese taste, set upon a boat. save life and property. They rescued from Our destination was the fa-ti (fatey) gardens, destruction one cargo of opium valued at which are situated on a creek about two $600,000, and saved many from drowning. miles above the factories or residences of At Hong Kong not a vessel escaped dam- foreign commercial factors. The destruc tive effects of the gale were very, manifest. | while they played and sang in a shrieking falVery many boats were employed in drag- setto voice, accompanied by wooden drums, ging the bottom of the river in order to gongs, and stringed instruments: one rerecover property lost, or the bodies of sembled a lute in form, and one yielded drowned friends. Men were hard at work sounds like those of a hautboy. At one correpairing the damages of their tiny vessels, ner were two giant statues in papier machè, while the women were rowing and sculling surrounded by some smaller figures, designed them. While sculling they commonly stand to represent gods. The street might be comat one side, slightly inclining towards the pared to an immensely long call-room: oar, and often assume very graceful attitudes. though crowded with men, some of them To prevent them from drowning, in the event half-naked, not a female of any age was of falling overboard, children of two or three seen. It seemed strange to me that such years old wear buoys (life-preservers) of amusement should be enjoyed by men alone; gourd or cork strapped to their backs. without women to participate in the festivi The gardens had been flooded during the ties. gale, and very considerably injured. They I asked a shopman the meaning of all this contain many specimens of dwarfed trees, demonstration. He replied, "oh! this some and of plants trained into the forms of dra- jos pigeon-chin-chin jos, he no makey burn goons, birds, beasts, and various fantastic up in winter time," that is, literally rendered, shapes. this is a god-business; to propitiate him to On the way home we passed through a prevent us from being burned up when the section of a boat-town called Sha-ming, fires are lighted in winter. where there is a very dense population con- Sunday, Sept. 3rd. sisting of the lowest orders of people. Many ing up their festival. of the large boats are very elaborately carved feet, dressed in the most gaudy manner are and gilded. Many of them, inhabited by carried about to see the show. The Chinese are keep- public women, are the resort of opium eaters 4th. Visited "Curiosity street" and and smokers at night, which is usually spent" Physic street." The latter is occupied by by the Chinese in dissipation. The coiffure Chinese doctors, and the former by shops for of the women is very peculiar. Foreigners the sale of fancy articles, consisting chiefly are not permitted to enter these floating tem- of carved buffalo horns, wood, jade stone, ples of debauchery. bronze, and various materials. It is quite impossible to describe the com- A friend residing at the hotel invited us to pact masses of boats, or the skilful manner a Chinese dinner at three o'clock, P. M. It of threading the passages amongst them. was served in pint bowls, and consisted of No jehu in Broadway exhibits greater dex- thirty dishes, among which were turtle, turterity in avoiding collisions with vehicles key stuffed with nuts, beehe la mar, snails, and wheels than do the Chinese boatmen in shark-fins and other articles to us unknown, shooting past each other without contact, all of which we tasted. A deficiency of salt. though often almost near enough to strip off characterized the cooking, and every thing the paint or varnish. was done to rags. We were supplied with We stopped at the "pack-house" of Gow-chop-sticks instead of knives and forks. The qua, a manufacturer of floor matting, fans, attendants were amused that we did not find rattan wares, &c. Matting is sold here at from nine to fifteen cents the yard, according to the width and quality. every thing palatable. I asked one if a dish was not chicken. "No" said the boy, placing himself in attitude and leaping along the floor like a frog. After dinner we visited the streets to see the celebration, some of the preparations for 6th. The system observed by street begwhich I have noted above. Hundreds of thou-gars is worthy of note. The class is numersands of glass cups of oil were burring injous. One is elected king who assigns his the chandeliers. All the shops were bril-subjects to a particular beat or street every liantly lighted. Musicians were seated in day in which they may beg. Each beggar rows on each side, looking perfectly passive carries a small gong, or two pieces of bamboo with which to make a noise. They have a discourse in the Chinese language, delivered right to enter any shop and keep up a din on by Dr. Parker at his hospital to an audience the gong or sticks until they receive a gra- of fifty or sixty natives, men and women, tuity, but must depart on receiving a single who were attentive and orderly in their de"cash," equal to about one mill. But until portment. A Chinese attached to the instihe pays such gratuity; the shopman cannot tution delivered a prayer extemporaneously, eject a beggar from his premises. The beg- and afterwards religious books were distrigar seizes on an occasion when customers buted to the congregation. In the opinion are in the shop to commence this importu- of the writer, the union of the palpable bennity. efits conferred by the practice of medicine. 7th. Twenty-eight fast-boats were des- and surgery upon the Chinese, with religious troyed in the late typhon, and sixty dollars instruction constitutes one of the most effiare demanded to-day to convey a passenger missionary means yet devised for diffusing a to Macao. knowledge of christianity. To appreciate 10th. Visited an establishment on the justly the labors of Dr. Parker in this field river where laquered ware is manufactured. requires but a single visit to the Opthalmic The laquer is prepared from sumach and is hospital under his direction at Canton. said to be very poisonous, and even danger- In the afternoon we walked through some ous to visitors. All the painting and gilding of the back streets, which were still in gala is done by hand. We visited the house of dress, consisting of dramatic effigies, lanPontinqua, recently a very wealthy Chinese terns and flowers. Banks of Chinese musimerchant. It has been frequently the site cians performed at the corners, screaming in of negotiations with foreign ministers, and falsetto voices more piercing and dissonant for this reason is regarded with interest. cries than caged canaries in a bird fancier's The establishment, though much out of re- garret. pair, is still pretty. It has a private theatre, We visited an old man who deals in and many ponds and gardens about it. We curiosities and articles of virtu. Pieces of were shown several models of steam engines old china are much prized, as well as and steam boats, which indicate that the the laquer of Suchau and Japan, which is proprietor is a lover of mechanical inven- admitted to be superior to any manufactured tion. The temperature is too high to write. in the province of Canton. Jade stone is We visited a tea-factory near Honan, also very highly valued. A large sized bedwhere they convert old black-teas into green screen of ebony inlaid with jade was exhibby roasting them with prussian blue and ited to us and offered at the price of $600. gypsum-sulphate of lime. 13th. Although the weather is very hot, I see no flies, even about the fish and meat shambles in the streets: none in the house; indeed, I have not noticed a single fly. I am told, however, that flies are abundant about the shops where sugar and sweetmeats are sold. 14th. At Dr. Parker's hospital I saw two men who had been shot yesterday in a conflict with pirates on the river about sixteen miles from Canton. One of them died immediately; from the back of the other an iron ball was cut out from beneath the skin. The ball was an inch in diameter and rough. It had been cast in a mould with several, from which it had been broken, as the points. of connection indicated. TO MARY. Mary! my love is not the vulgar flame Unmov'd could I behold the locks that stream But there's a spirit, thine unearthly part 17th. Sunday. Listened to a religious Charlotte, Va. |