temple by Cortés, it was accidentally dug up in 1790, and built into the wall of the cathedral, by order of the then Viceroy.

The interior is lofty and grand of its class, with an overwhelming chief altar in the centre, after Spanish fashion, the centre choir being railed in by heavy metal balustrades. There are also the usual minor altars, aisles, chapels, pictures, and fixtures; its confessionals are well attended, and, at the appointed days and hours, its congregations are very numerous and very Indian.

The cathedral is said to be erected on the very spot formerly occupied by the Aztec Teocalli, or Pyramidal Temple, which was of course destroyed by Cortés, as being dedicated to one of the Aztec gods of an impossible name, and, so far as Cortés was concerned, of equally impossible worship. Cortés followed the general rule of conquering nations; objecting to the gods of the conquered one, and introducing their own.

A very fine view of the city, the green flat plain, and the surrounding mountains is obtained from the roofing; nor should the ascent be omitted, as it' affords an admirable opportunity of appreciating the whole city and its position.

We also visited the museum, where we saw certain pictures and certain antiquities. Among the latter was the famous Sacrificial Stone, used in those human sacrifices that have so often been described, and the

evidences of which are said to have so shocked Cortés and his followers. It was strange to look upon the mass in its present condition of an outdoor curiosity, and associate it with those repulsive rites celebrated by the Aztec priests, who, being savages in superstition, of course invented a savage religion and a savage god.

The eastern side of the Plaza is occupied by "El Palacio Nacional," and on the side in front of the cathedral stands "El Palacio Municipal." Palaces they must both be called by conventional phraseology, but they are both large commonplace buildings, though the arcades in front of the latter add much effect to it. The President of the Republic, of course, occupies the former, which also contains the senators' chamber. The latter building belongs to the corporation of Mexico. The Plaza is large, and in the front of the cathedral it is planted with trees of tolerably good size, but of no particular character. Under their shade, walks and gardens are laid out, with a pavilion in the middle, where, as usual, a military band from time to time plays, while the town's folk, particularly on Sundays, sit or walk about to listen and to talk; this vocal accompaniment by the audience not being in these cases quite so out of place, or so destructive of the music and trying to one's temper as it too often is at theatres and operas, where certain people come apparently only to gossip; and in drawing-rooms.

Near the cathedral is the celebrated Monte Piedad, or National Pledging Establishment. We were

curious to see this institution on account of the peculiar custom that has existed in Mexican families to deposit and obtain advances on their jewelry, subject to their capacity to redeem their property in that more propitious future which so very seldom comes. These are set out in glass cases along a large saloon, with all the prices of sale marked on them by the Direction; and many purchases are made from time to time of genuine articles at reasonable sums. The objects deposited extend to almost every thing in the shape of ornament and furniture; to carriages, saddles, bits and bridles; but the long front row is reserved for the jewelry. Of this class I believe my friends bought some small specimens, but nothing I saw tempted my own taste. This custom seems singular enough, but having been long publicly acknowledged in Mexico it is accepted as one of those approved in Mexican society. Society may, of course, make its own rules everywhere, and customs which are acknowledged in one country may appear strange in others, which can, in turn, astonish by some of their own. Of course, no names appear. After a certain period the objects are exposed to public auction.

In the Plaza there is a very goodly sight indeed for those who wish to move about: I mean the centre station of all the various tramways that run to the surrounding districts, and do great credit to Mexico. It did not, however, occur to us on our first day to