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THE SQUARES OF LONDON

CHAPTER I

BERKELEY SQUARE

"A broad square, filled with trees, flowers, and garden-ground opens before us."
MAX SCHLESINGER, Saunterings in and about London.

T

HOUGH not so old as St. James's or Bloomsbury Squares, Berkeley Square is one of the oldest and most important of the squares or "quadrates," as Maitland' terms them, in the west end of London. Its genesis, the noble family and mansion from which it takes its name, and the original appearance of many of the houses, as well as its position in the heart of the most fashionable portion of the town, all contribute to its importance and interest; while the number of remarkable people who have, at one time or another, lived in it, give it an almost historic position in the annals of the country.

2

It was formed in the early part of the eighteenth century, on a portion of the "noble gardens," as Evelyn calls them, of Berkeley House which John, Lord Berkeley, the hero of Stratton fight, erected at a cost of over £30,000 on his return from his tenure of the vice-royalty of Ireland. "It was built not only in the country, but where a rustic structure stood, called Hay Hill farm," says the Hon. Grantley Berkeley, "nevertheless it was on the north side of Piccadilly, opposite the Green Park. The estate of which it formed a part was afterwards selected for building purposes by his widow, and a square and two streets in a few years sprang up around it, much to the distaste of honest John

1 History of London.

* In Aggas' plan (temp. Queen Elizabeth) the site is shown as open fields, as it also is in the later plan by Faithorne dated 1655.

My Life and Recollections, vol. i. p. 78.

Α

Evelyn, who feelingly expressed his disapprobation at the overgrowth of London!"

64

In 1736, Messrs. Cock and Hillyard, described in the deeds as carpenters," had obtained building leases and erected houses in Bruton Street and Berkeley Street, and having been successful in their undertaking, were anxious to enlarge their operations, whereupon William, Lord Berkeley, agreed to grant them a lease of certain ground on the understanding that the necessary space should be left to complete the square. It was not, however, till eleven years later that Lord Berkeley's successor, John, Lord Berkeley, executed this lease, by which he granted to Edward Cock and Francis Hillyard of the parish of St. George's, Hanover Square, about three acres of land, which now comprises Berkeley Square. In the lease thus granted, this land is described as being "enclosed by dwarf brick walls, and wooden rails and pallisadoes set thereon." 1

2

Old Berkeley House, which Evelyn calls "one of the most magnificent pallaces of the towne," and which had been built by Hugh May in the classical style, in imitation of a design by Palladio, became the residence at one time of the Princess Anne until January 1695, and in 1697, was purchased by the first Duke of Devonshire, "the finest and handsomest gentleman of his time." On October 16, 1733, it was burnt to the ground, through the carelessness of workmen engaged in repairing it,3 and although many of the more valuable contents were saved, the loss was estimated at £30,000-the sum which it was said to have originally cost. The present house, built from designs by Kent and now known as Devonshire House, was erected on the site of the former mansion, of which all that was incorporated in the later building was the portico and marble staircase. Although Evelyn saddened at the thought of the extension of London, as we have seen, it was nevertheless he who was consulted by Lady Berkeley in the development of a portion of her estate, and in his Diary, under date of June 12, 1684, he writes: "I went to advise and give directions about building two streets in Berkeley Gardens, reserving the house and as much of the garden as the breadth of the house. In the meantime I could not but deplore that sweet place (by far the most noble gardens, courts and accommodations, stately porticos, etc.,

Information kindly supplied me by Walter Boodle, Esq., of the Grosvenor Estate Office. 2 The only view of it known to exist is that on the large map of London published by Ogilby and Morgan about 1682. It shows a palatial erection not unlike old Burlington House close by.

3 Wheatley's Round about Piccadilly, p. 96.

The name seems to have been changed when the Duke of Devonshire purchased it in 1697, for his death in 1707, is stated by Bishop Kennet to have occurred at "Devonshire House Piccadilly." Note to Evelyn's Life of Mrs. Godolphin.

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