debasing spirit of Calvinism. His allegory of the Pilgrim's Progress has, perhaps, gone through more editions than any book in the world, excepting the Bible. It was written during his confine ment in the county goal.

DUNSTAPLE, OR DUNSTABLE.*

The origin of this town lies buried, with many others, in the ruins of antiquity. That it was a British settlement prior to the invasion of the Romans, the derivation of the name given to it by Antoninus renders extremely probable: and that it was a principal station of the latter people, the intersection of the two main roads, and the stupendous earth-work in the vicinity, are unquestiona ble testimonies. The words Maes Gwyn, or the White Field, which, according to Mr. Baxter, become Magionuinion in the plural, agree so well with its situation on a chalky soil, that a doubt of its being the Magiovinium of the Itinerary can hardly be entertained. The etymology of the name Dunstaple must be deduced from other sources.

From the monkish record quoted by Camden, it appears that the structure at the meeting of the Watling and Ikening ways was first raised by Henry the Elder to curb the practices of DUN, a famous robber, and his associates; and from him the place was called Dunstaple. This ridiculous derivation is undeserving of credit. That the residence or stable of a notorious freebooter should have been left undisturbed, after the establishment of a regular government, and the vengeance of the laws contented by only circumscribing the scope of his knavery, cannot be believed for a single moment. Yet, as most stories, however absurd, are founded on realities, we may conclude, that, after the town had been ruined by the Danes, it was neglected, and became an harbour for thieves, who easily eluded pursuit in the woods

* The latter name is generally adopted, though the former is more ancient, and better corresponds with its etymology.

woods* with which the country is reported to have been overrun; and that this circumstance induced Henry the First to attempt a second colonization of this spot.

To effectuate his purpose, the Monarch issued a proclamation, offering great privileges to such of his subjects as chose to settle at Dunstable: and, in order to destroy the shelter of the robbers, he directed the woods to be grubbed up, and established both a fair and a market. The most obvious etymology, therefore, is from Dunum, or Dun, a Hill, (explanatory of its situation,) and Staple, Merchandise, or Mart for Commerce, as it was rendered by Henry's market.

Dunstable is seated near the entrance of the Chiltern hills, at the junction of the Icknield and Watling streets. The name of the former is still preserved in that of Hicknill, which issues from the town on the north side of the church, and is said to connect the cities of Oxford and Cambridge.

The town consists of four principal streets, intersecting each other at right angles, and running nearly in the direction of the cardinal points. The houses are mostly of brick, and some of them have the appearance of considerable antiquity. As the soil is destitute of springs, the inhabitants are supplied from four large ponds, in which the rain-water from the hills is collected, and prevented soaking into the earth by chalky bottoms. No water can be obtained from wells, but at the depth of one hundred and sixteen feet, whence it is commonly drawn by the aid of machinery.

The inhabitants may be computed at about 1000; a number that, from the register of births and marriages, appears to have been but little varied for the last hundred years. Their religion is chiefly that of the established church; though there is one small congregation of Quakers, and another of Anabaptists.

VOL. I.

C

Dunstable,

*These woods (if any considerable ones ever existed near this place) must have been formed of the smaller species of trees and underwood, as the more mighty tenants of the forest could not have found sufficient nutriment; the foil in this neighbourhood being only a few inches in depth, with a hard chalk be

low it.

The glory of Dunstable was its once celebrated priory; yet of this extensive building nothing remains, but the part now appropriated for the parish church, and two arches in the adjoining wall. It was founded by Henry the First, about the year 1131, for black canons, in honour of St. Peter. At the dissolution of the religious houses, its revenues, according to Dugdale, amounted to 3441. 13s. per annum.

The priory church was originally in the form of a cross, with a tower in the centre, supported by four lofty arches; parts of which, belonging to the two western pillars, still remain: these are of a large size, with clustered columns, and surmounted with hexagon capitals. This fabric appears to have been very extensive and magnificent. Henry the Eighth intended it for a cathedral, and Dr. Day for the first bishop. When this design was abandoned, it is probable, that a considerable part of the structure was demolished; for the whole now standing only reaches from the west door to the cross aisle, or choir entrance; a space containing a nave and two side aisles, yet hardly extending to the length of forty yards.

This is one of the few specimens of Saxon architecture now remaining in the kingdom. On each side the nave are six circular and lofty arches, consisting of four mouldings, with a pilaster in the middle between each arch. The arches of the upper windows are also round, as well as the groined arches at the east end. The windows are of a later date than the building itself, which is mended with brick in various places. A dead wall closes the east end; and the two nearest arches on each side form the present choir. A, beautiful stone rood-loft, of four pointed arches, with clustered columns, ranges over the west door: beneath it is a rich wooden screen. The roof is of oak, finely carved with knots of flowers, &c. The beams are supported by angels horizontal and perpendicular. About the church are several grotesque figures.

The west front, though devoid of symmetry, appears to have been wonderfully enriched with a great diversity of historical carving, intermixed with Gothic ornaments of foliage, flowers, &c. The

great door* had four pillars on each side, with Saxon capitals supporting five mouldings, the outermost of which is ornamented with zigzag work: the second has angels and foliage in alternate ovals: the third, beasts' heads jessant foliage: the fourth, signs of the zodiac, of which Pisces and Capricorn still remain. There is also a spread eagle: the fifth, flowers, &c. The capitals have David playing on the harp, a figure prostrate to him; a bishop in pontificalibus, with mitre and crosier, and a bearded man in a cap: two more bearded men hold a scroll perpendicularly, on whose top is a headless beast, &c. The lesser door has seven mouldings, on five pillars, exclusive of the inner, composed of roses, and laced work, nail-headed quatrefoils. The arch between the two doors is half a zigzag and half a strait moulding; and the interlaced arches within it, rest on capitals charged with grotesque figures: one seems to have a number of souls and a devil. The flat between the doors is charged with indented roses. Above are three rows of arches: the first row consists of seven flat arches, with pedestals for statues; the second, of six small and two large, open to a gallery leading to the bell tower, with a seventh arch between the latter, placed over the door, all on treble clustered pillars. The third row has fine pointed flat arches, with single pillars. Over the west door, under the arch, are three beautiful niches; and under the west windows of the tower are four roses in squares. In the annexed print, this front is represented, and will be found to correspond with the above description. The small turret, or tower, that appears on the right hand corner of the building, has fallen down since Mr. Arnold took his sketch. This part presents a curious mixture of the Saxon, and, what are commonly termed, Gothic arches.

The tower is attached to the north side of the front, and has two rows of niches, now deprived of their statues. Anciently another tower on the opposite side corresponded with this. The Cronicle of Dunstaple records the falling of two towers in the

year

The door-way of Malmsbury-abbey, in Wiltshire, is very similar, but rather larger, in better preservation, and more richly ornamented.