ster's No. 1) is uninjured, while Laxton's Alpha has suffered. Carter's Blue Peter and Laxton's William I. were not so much exposed as Alpha, and they are not materially injured. Potatoes in exposed positions, or wherever they were not thoroughly sheltered from the east winds, are blackened. Under a wall facing west we have Myatt's Prolific and Veitch's Ashleaf; not a leaf is injured. On south borders the Potato is slightly injured.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

After the plants are put in the beds should receive a thorough soaking of pond water, so as to make the soil almost like a puddle, and then the following day be hoed and raked over, so as to leave the surface loose. The plants may then be peggeddown, and will require little more attention unless the weather is very dry. Recently-transplanted shrubs and trees must be carefully attended to with water until they get fairly established. It is frequently the case, however, that too much water is given at the Recently allusion was made to planting Cauliflower plants out root, thereby souring the soil and rendering it uncongenial to of boxes. On Thursday the wind changed, and by Friday mornthe young rootlets and the after-growth of the plants. The soil ing had worked round to the west; this gave us a chance to get should be kept moist, but not to saturation, and the plants as the plants out into drills, planting carefully, and saving all the soon as the weather gets warmer might be watered overhead with roots during removal. Have also been sticking successional the engine on the evenings of bright days, which will be of vastly crops of Peas. We must always cover with Pea-protectors. A more service in repairing the loss sustained by evaporation than useful appliance is now made of galvanised wire netting for this if given in excess to the soil while there is a deficiency of active purpose. The netting is bent in the form of a half-circle, and is rootlets to absorb it. Where Roses are infested with the grub it sold in lengths of 3 feet at the moderate price of 9s. per dozen. will be necessary to go over the plants frequently to destroy the Where sparrows are plentiful no garden should be without these pest. Green fly is also very troublesome at this season; a good protectors. With care they will last for the best part of a lifewashing with the garden engine on two or three successive time. When the Pea plant reaches the top of the protectors it evenings will greatly assist in getting rid of this destructive will be time to remove them, and if the sticks are put to the Peas pest, but this must be done after all danger of frost is over. at once the birds seldom attack them, at least to an injurious Persevere in the destruction of insects on fruit trees, in order to extent. afford the young shoots a fair chance of making healthy growth; We have been cutting a good supply of Asparagus, but the also proceed with disbudding and stopping gross shoots. Look quality is indifferent. Though the frost has not been severe after the caterpillars on the Gooseberry trees; the quickest way enough to kill the young heads, it has seriously impaired their of getting rid of this pest is to give the trees a heavy washing quality. With genial weather and a warm shower it would be with the garden engine, throwing the water against the under all right. Planted out a few rows of Celery. Early planted, this sides of the leaves, which will wash off the caterpillars, and has a tendency to run to seed in the autumn, but this may be they are readily killed on the ground by means of an iron rake. prevented by managing the plants well. They must receive no Every spare half hour may now be profitably employed in check, which they often do when sown in boxes in a hotbed, killing weeds and stirring the ground among growing crops. and then removed to a cold frame or hand-light without being Vegetation, which has been so long checked by cold north-easterly careful to do it in warm weather, and also not keeping the winds, is now beginning to make rapid progress, and weeds, like lights close for a few days. Scarlet Runners had come through other things, grow apace; they therefore require sharp looking the ground, and the plants would undoubtedly have been killed after in order, if possible, to prevent them from flowering and if small pots had not been placed over each. Some new sorts of seeding. Planting in the kitchen garden should now be done in Potatoes were saved in the same way. It is easy to do a hundred drills. In this way the plants are more effectually watered, or two plants, when a whole quarter must be left to take their and the first hoeing, by filling-in the drills, acts as a slight earth-chance; but the advantage of being able to dig Potatoes a forting-up. night earlier from the plants protected will well repay any extra trouble required.

FRUIT AND FORCING HOUSES.

Brompton Stocks. Two sowings of these should be made, the first about the middle of May, and the second about the 21st of June. Sow in beds of rich sandy loam in an open situation; and about the end of August, if the weather is moist, or in the Pineries.-The first fruit, a Queen, was ready to cut last week. In the house started in January it has not been necessary beginning of September, transplant them into a border, placing during the last few weeks to shade the plants in the fruiting five in a patch; at the same time pot-off a store to be kept in a house, but it is needful when the weather is hot and scorching frame over the winter for planting out in spring. Use 6-inch as fruit that is ripe or ripening is readily injured by the sun. If pots for the purpose, which should be filled with good loam mixed with a little rotten dung. The more airy the situation only a few plants require to be shaded, the best way is to place is, and the drier the plants are kept in dull weather the better raised above it. Should it be necessary to shade the whole, this a newspaper over them, not close on the crown of the plant, but they will succeed. Plants that survive the winter in the is best done by a blind fixed on a roller outside; it should only borders are always finest, but those kept in pots are well be used during hot sunshine, and not before 10 A.M., nor after worth the trouble. Seed three or four years old is better and 3 P.M. There is not much required in these houses at present, more likely to produce double bloom than that of one year old. Tender Roses that have suffered from the effects of the past By the time the fruit is ripe the plants ought to be rather dry at except to see that the fruit is ripened-off with a good flavour. winter will now require to be pruned. Standards would like- the roots, and no more water is required until the fruit is cut. wise be much improved by giving them a good soaking with dung It ought not to be left in the fruiting house after it is ripe; the water, it is best applied in cloudy weather. Such herbaceous plants as Pæonias, &c., that soon come into bloom should be tied-most convenient way is to cut it with a good stalk, and hang it up. Divide and transplant Hepaticas, and strong-growing plants up in a cool fruit room. Newly-potted suckers must be kept of Double Scarlet Lychnis, or take some cuttings close to the growing freely. root and plant them in a mild frame-heat in small pots, these will soon strike root and be fit for planting-out in the borders. Harden-off carefully tender annuals and other plants, and continue potting-off annuals and struck cuttings as they require it, putting-in scarce sorts for stores. If cuttings of choice rock plants, such as Phlox setacea, nivalis, subulata, verna, procumbens, and amoena, with Saponaria ocymoides, Onosma tauricum, Alyssum saxatile, Iberis sempervirens, &c., are put into prepared cutting-pots in sand and placed in a mild frame-heat and treated as Verbena cuttings, they will soon strike root and be fit for planting-out or potting-off as may be required. If green fly appear on Carnations dust them with Scotch snuff, or brush-off with a camel-hair pencil. Put all the sticks in the pots, and attach stems that are beginning to spindle. Continue to put in the side shoots of Pansies as cuttings. Dahlias may in some situations be put out, sheltering them during the night for the first ten days.-W. KEANE.

DOINGS OF THE LAST AND PRESENT WEEKS. A WRITER in one of the daily papers has something to say about the "cold week in May," and seems to imply that as a usual thing the temperature is much lower than one would be led to expect from the increasing height of the sun in this month. We have certainly had two extremely cold weeks-frost almost every night. Acres of early Peas in blossom have been ploughed-up in Essex, to the heavy loss of the growers. The weather has tested the comparative hardiness of the different sorts of Peas. Taber's Early Perfection (the best stock of Sang

Cucumber and Melon Houses.-The only way to have plenty growth; and to do this, if the same plants are continued in of crisp young Cucumbers is to keep the plants in healthy bearing all the year round, fresh mould must be occasionally placed to the roots. This is done by forking away the surface soil, but not to injure the roots to a great extent; the surface is then dressed with a compost of turfy loam and rotted manure in equal parts. The best Cucumbers are obtained if the plants are not more than six months old. A great depth of soil is not necessary for them; 20 inches is quite deep enough. Plenty of drainage underneath is also of much importance; it drains the bed and prevents overwatering. Melons are approaching the ripening stage. As the plants are trained to a trellis overhead it has been necessary to secure the fruit from falling by fastening square boards, with a hole at each corner, under the fruit. the bed and be injured. Red spider should be thoroughly disWithout this precaution the fruit would drop on the surface of lodged from the plants, as it seems to spread more rapidly on the Melon than it does on any other plant; leaves and fruit are alike over-run as by magic. The fruit is improved in flavour by being cut and laid on the shelves in the fruit-room for a few days before using it. We also examine the bed a week or ten days before the fruit is likely to be ripe, and should it be dry, give sufficient water to moisten it to its entire depth; no more water will be required after this.

Orchard House.-A good deal of work is required here at this time, especially if, as is the case with us, a series of shelves are filled with Strawberries. In the first place, all the plants require plenty of water at the roots and syringing twice daily. The shoots on Peach and Nectarine trees require stopping. All

the trees cannot be done at once; it is therefore necessary to go over them, if possible, twice a-week, thinning-out the fruit at the same time. The young wood, or rather the young growths of this season, are often crowded too closely together; these must be thinned-out. No one who does not take much personal interest in the trees ever can do such work in a satisfactory manner, as close observation is necessary to success.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and should never send more than two or three All articles intended for insertion questions at once. should be written on one side of the paper only. Books (F. B. H.).-There can be no cheap book with portraits of our wild flowers and Grasses. The drawing, engraving, and colouring are costly and voluminous. Dr. Hooker's "Student's Manual of the British Flora" contains all you require except the plates. (Berkshire Tyro).-Our manual, "Fruit Garden for the Many." You can have it free by post if you enclose five postage stamps with your address. (J. F. N.).-" Kitchen Gardening for the Many" contains all that is needed about Asparagus culture. You can have it as directed to the previous querist.

PLUMS DROPPING (W. Bristow).-We fear the young wood was not fully ripened last year. If, as you suspect, the dry weather is the cause, pour an abundance of water into a semicircular trench 3 feet from the stem.

FLOWER-BED ARRANGEMENT (F. J. T.)-Selecting from the varieties you enumerate, we would not use the two Geraniums as you propose in the bed that is 24 feet by 10 feet, but would plant along the centre a mass of yellow Calceolaria Aurea floribunda 2 feet wide, surrounding it with a band half its width of Coleus Verschaffelti, with Lobelia pumila grandiflora next, followed by Master Christine Geranium, enclosing the whole with an edging of Echeveria glauca; or, if you think the Lobelia of too dwarf a habit to prove effective behind the Geranium, transpose the arrangement by using the Lobelia for an edging, forming a little ramp close behind and inside it, on the face of which plant the Echeveria. This will impart a novel and pleasing effect by slightly raising the body or major part of the bed above the blue edging; then make a broad handsome band of Coleus next the Echeveria, with another of the yellow Calceolaria enclosing a centre of the pink Geranium Master Christine.

These structures are now in great beauty, the principal display being obtained from Azaleas and Pelargoniums. The first named are, perhaps, the most useful class of hard wooded plants we have, and within the last few years very many exceedingly fine varieties have been added to the list. They are still shown at the exhibitions in the metropolis, but the glory has departed. The magnificent specimens that were the great attraction at the early shows in June are not seen now, the plants are small but well flowered, and some of the newer sorts that have been exhibited this year are more brilliant in colour than we remember to have seen in previous years. The Azalea is also better adapted for forcing than any other plant of the same character. This renders it doubly valuable, as a continuous display can be kept-up from January until July; early in that month the latest-flowering sorts will be at their best. As soon as the plants go out of flower the seed-pods must be picked off, and the plants placed in a hothouse to make their young wood. The house may be as warm as a Pine house, it will answer all the better. Plenty of atmospheric moisture is essential, and the plants should be syringed at least twice a-day. Fresh roots are freely produced at this time, and the plants may be repotted with advantage. Sometimes it is necessary to repot the plants into the same sized pots as those in which they had posed ranure, of course then the whole would be alike; but if the decomposed been growing. It will not harm them in the least to take a chopper and cut an inch or two of the mass of fibrous roots from the ball all round. Those who are fond of scented flowers in their greenhouses should grow the Perpetual-flowering Carnations. We are never without them, and they are so varied in colour-white, flesh, pink, yellow, flaked red and rose, crimson, scarlet, &c. The plants that are grown-on for winter flowering will presently be turned out of doors, where they will remain until September.

FLOWER GARDEN.

The largest proportion of the bedding plants are put out. Of course they are well inured to cold, and are such that a few degrees of frost will not hurt-that is, if it is not a frosty wind; and, furthermore, our plants are well sheltered from the northeast, which makes a difference. We have planted Ageratum, Calceolaria, Zonal Pelargoniums, the scarlet and variegated section; Lobelias, and any other hardy sorts. Heliotrope, Iresine, Coleus, Alternanthera, and anything in the way of plants that two or three degrees of frost would injure, will not be planted-out for a week or ten days. For edging lines to small beds Mr. W. Paul's white Zonal with white-variegated leaves, Avalanche, is exceedingly pretty if associated with the dwarf blue Lobelia pumila. Some of the new Verbenas are also likely to be useful in the flower garden. Blue Boy is the nearest approach to Purple King in profusion of flowers, and the colour is very pretty.

Roses are making a very healthy growth and are almost free from aphis, which is to be wondered at with such drying winds as we have had; perhaps the frost at night has had some check upon them. It has been necessary to go over some of the bushes to thin-out the growths, so that the centre of the plant may be open sufficiently to allow a free circulation of air. Gladiolus are making very strong growths and are not checked by the frosts. Some seedlings that were planted-out in March, after having started into growth, were subjected to 13° of frost with wind, and though the outer leaves were injured they started afresh and are now growing freely. Placing sticks to Carnations, Picotees, Phloxes, Delphiniums, Liliums, &c. Planted-out Stocks and Asters in beds and lines.-J. DOUGLAS.

TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED.
W. Knight, Hailsham, Sussex.-Descriptive Catalogue of
Roses, Geraniums, Fuchsias, &c.

Louis Van Houtte, Royal Nurseries, Ghent, Belgium.-Catalogue of Stove, Greenhouse Plants, &c.; also a Supplement to Hardy Perennials, Ornamental Trees and Shrubs.

J. Linden, Ghent, Belgium.-Catalogue of Stove and Greenhouse Plants, Orchids, Palms, Ferns, New and Rare Plants, &c.

TO CORRESPONDENTS

It is particularly requested that no communication be ad-
dressed privately to either of the Editors of this Journal.
All correspondence should be directed either to "The
Editors," or to "The Publisher." Great delay often arises
when this rule is departed from.

Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions

COVERING STABLE MANURE WITH EARTH (J. Shand).-It absorbs and retains the ammonia and some other of the fertilising gases emitted by the manure during its decomposition. In other words, it prevents waste, but nothing is created. If the earth is finally thoroughly mixed with the decommanure were used separately, it would be found that a ton of it would be more fertilising than a ton of the earth.

It is the Bois ERYTHRINA GLAUCA (H. G.).-We know we are correct. immortel of some of the West India Islands. A plant 20 feet high is a tree, not a shrub.

MARANTA ZEBRINA SEED SAVING-CALADIUMS (A Reader).-The Maranta will need to be kept rather drier than if you did not want seed, the flowers being artificially impregnated by taking the pollen of the stamens and apply. it to the stigmas. In the same way you will have to proceed with Caladiums, taking the pollen from plants you wish to operate with, and applying it to the pistils of those intended to produce seed. The plants will need to have a rather drier atmosphere when operated upon, and also when the seed When ripe the seeds is ripening, as too much moisture at either period is apt to render the pollen ineffective in one case and to rot the seeds in the other. may be kept in sand in the stove, and sown then or in February, keeping

moist up to that time; place in a good bottom heat, and cover with a close frame, or hand or bell-glass, removing it when the seedlings are well up. Equal parts of loam, sandy peat, and sand answer for sowing the seeds, which should be covered with fine soil. Pot-off the seedlings when they are large enough to handle, and grow them in brisk moist heat.

PLANTS DISEASED (F. W.).-The dots on the leaves of the Achillea is a

fungus, probably Puccinia glomerata. There is no insect on the Nectarine leaves; they are blistered by stagnation of sap from cold. Blistering is common to the Peach and Nectarine out of doors, and there is no remedy but to keep the trees warmer. The worst of the leaves should be picked off by degrees, and as the weather becomes warmer the new growth will have perfect leaves. On the leaves of Arabis there is no insect, but a fangus-we think Erisiphe` depressa, which will be overcome by a dusting with quicklime.

AZALEAS IN WINTER (A Constant Subscriber).—They grow in winter in consequence of their growth not being completed in the previous year and the wood being badly ripened. Moisture in winter would not make them grow unless accompanied by warmth, and that would only cause the development of the If the bloom buds are deflowers or shoots formed in the previous season. fectively formed fresh growths are made very early in the year, and the plants usually flower finely another year.

CHESTNUT VARIETY (Sydenham).-The leaf of Chestnut sent us is the Silver-leaved Horse Chestnut (Esculus Hippocastanum foliis argenteis). The Chestnut cannot be propagated from cuttings. The only eligible mode of

propagation is by grafting on stocks of the common kind, or budding in July.

TRANSPLANTING PRINCE'S FEATHER AND LOVE-LIES-BLEEDING (B. B.).—

They do not transplant well, but you may succeed if you take them up whilst young, preserving some soil about the roots, and watering after planting. Thin-out the plants if you wish for good specimens. They do little good when crowded.

VINES-ASPARAGUS-HEPATICAS-POT ROSES-GRAFTING (E. P. B.).— The shoots of the Vines not showing fruit should be stopped at the joint where the first tendril is situated, or at the sixth leaf; in other respects they are to be treated the same as those showing fruit, which you will stop one joint beyond the bunch. To fill up blanks in an old Asparagus bed the plants may be lifted now with the roots entire, and soil along with them, covering the crown, or part whence the shoots arise, 3 inches deep. With a good watering From now to the at planting the plants will receive but a slight check. middle of June is the best time to perform this kind of transplanting; but the plants must be lifted and planted with balls of soil. Hepaticas in small pots from a nursery should be planted out in good, rich, light soil in the border where they are to remain. A border partially shaded is most suitable. Pot Roses done flowering should be placed outdoors in a sheltered position, not pruned until autumn, and during summer duly supplied with water. Before placing outdoors they should, if forced, be hardened off. It is now too late to graft most kinds of trees; but any that have not begun to grow, and for which inactive scions are secured, may be operated upon successfully after April.

PRUNING WALL PEAR TREES (Subscriber).-The trees have been badly managed for the last few years. We advise you now to cut the young wood back to three or four leaves, and where it is too much crowded thin the shoots out. In winter cut the most prominent spurs well back; these will not yield fruit the following season, but with summer pruning they will bear well the next year. The second winter a few more of the spurs may be

shortened back, and in this way you will, in the course of four years, get the trees into good shape. Nearly all the back volumes give directions for managing fruit trees.

STRAWBERRIES FOR LIGHT SOIL (Idem.-Keens' Seedling, President, Sir Charles Napier, Premier, La Constante, and Frogmore Late Pine. Trench

if one explanation is hardly clear, it helps and is helped by the other.

A, The upper feathers of the head are very small in those fowls not tufted. They surround the skull.

B, The underneath feathers of the head are almost like

the ground as deeply as you can if you cannot get down 2 feet. Add plenty bristles. They cover the cheeks in the space which separates

of farmyard manure at the same time. See volume xxi., page 82, new series. VINERY MANAGEMENT (A Novice).-Figs do better under the shade of Vines than any other fruit tree; if you have room plant Bourjassotte Grise and Brown Turkey Figs. Want of water at the roots would cause the Figs to drop. Thin the growths out if they are crowded, and should any gross shoots take the lead pinch their points out. If the Vine shoots are crowded thin them out; those that remain and show for fruit should be stopped two leaves beyond the bunch. The shoot enclosed would not have had any bunches on it this year; all that have not shown fruit now will not show this season.

PINCHING FRUIT TREE SHOOTS (Idem).-If you do not wish the trees to increase in size, pinch or cut back the young growths to four or five leaves in June. If you wish the trees to increase in size quickly, only pinch the points out at that time. That would be the treatment for pyramids. For espaliers train the leading growths along the wires, and cut the side shoots back to three or four leaves. We cannot say what it is that is barking the old wood; watch at night with a lamp. It seems to be done by mice.

FIGS IN POTS (A Constant Reader).-It is of no use trying to grow Figs as standards in the open air. They will succeed in the orchard house grown in pots. They require a rich compost. Turfy loam four parts, one part rotted manure, and some crushed bones mixed with the compost are the best material for them to grow in. About the end of June, when the trees are rooting freely, the surface of the pots should be dressed with loam and manure in equal parts. The leading growths should be stopped at the fourth or fifth leaf. Syringe freely, and shut up the house early in the afternoon. It is not necessary to use very large pots. We have gathered excellent Figs from trees in 9 and 10-inch pots.

ROSES INJURED BY INSECTS (W. Savile).-They are a species of weevil, Otiorhynchus ovatus. Your only remedy is to spread a white cloth beneath the tree on the wall; go at night when they are out feeding, and brush the tree with a hand broom. The marauders will fall on the cloth, and this repeated on two or three following nights will subdue them.

TOMATO CULTURE (R. G. M.).-The shoots should be thinned when they crowd each other, and if they show fruit plentifully no stopping need be resorted to. If the growths are gross, and the fruit or show for fruit distant, stop at the third or fourth joint, and to ensure the swelling of the fruit stop at the joint beyond the cluster, but not if fruit is there showing, as it is evident the plants are in a good bearing state, no stopping being required to induce fruitful growths. It is well to remove most of the large leaves, but do not make too great a clearance at once. Go over the plants frequently, stopping, thinning the shoots, and removing any large leaves which shade the fruit too much. There is no limit to the fruit that ought to be left on a plant, but a cluster of three may ripen in every square foot of surface; thinning should be confined to the small fruit, leaving the finest to ripen, say, three on each cluster. Water abundantly and with liquid manure in dry weather. The question of Cucumber-thinning is a difficult one, as so much depends on the vigour of the plants and extent of surface allowed to each plant; but as you say "ripen "we presume you want them for seed, and for that you will not require

more than half a dozen fruit per plant, but if to cut when fit you may allow one fruit to every square foot of surface every ten days or a fortnight consecutively throughout the season.

SELECT DAHLIAS (T. C.).-The following are good and not expensive. Show.-Alexander Cramond, Andrew Dodds, Chairman, Charles Backhouse, Charlotte Dorling, Criterion, Flag of Truce, High Sheriff, James Cocker, John Standish, Kate Haslam, Leah, Lord Derby, Lord Palmerston, Maid of Essex,

Mrs. Henshaw, Ne Plus Ultra, Sam Naylor, Toisin d'Or, and Umpire. Fancy.-Chameleon, Dolly Varden, Ebor, Fanny Sturt, Flossie Williams, Marquis of Lorne, Negress, Pauline, Queen Mab, Sam Bartlett, Sparkler, and Viceroy. You may obtain them through any of the florists who advertise in our columns. You will find full directions for culture in "Florists' Flowers," which you can have free by post from our office for 41d.

ROSE LEAVES BROWN-BLOTCHED (E. S. Turner).-Deficient supply of sap is the cause. Water the roots plentifully and once a-week with very weak

the wattles.

c, The upper feathers and those at the back of the neck are short and lengthening lower down, forming what is called the hackle. They become longer between the shoulders, where they cover the beginning of those on the back and the commencement of the wings.

D, The front feathers of the neck extend from the top of the neck to the breast, and over the large feathers.

E, The feathers of the back forming a layer about Om. 10. These feathers of the same nature as those of the neck but a little larger and form the saddle.

F, The feathers of the breast cover the entire length of the two breast muscles, extending beyond the breastbone on each side and uniting at its end. The whole forms what is termed the breast. These feathers conjointly with the feathers of the loins overlap those of the sides.

G, The feathers on the sides cover the loins, taking-in the back as far as the rump, which they go beyond and cover the lower part of the feathers of the tail. They also cover the commencement of the feathers of the flanks, thighs, and abdomen. H, The feathers of the flanks are light and fluffy. They cover the upper part of the thigh feathers and slip under those of the breast.

I, The feathers of the abdomen cover and envelope all this part from the end of the breast to the rump. These feathers are generally fluffy, of a silky nature, and spread-out in a tuft. J, The outside feathers of the thigh cover those of the abdomen and leg.

K, The inside feathers of the thigh are flattened and of a silky

nature.

L, The outside and inside feathers of the leg stop at the heel, or in some varieties they proceed lower and form what are called ruffles or vultured hocks.

M, The feathers of the feet or sole are long, short, or entirely shank in either one or several rows. They are always on the absent in the different varieties. These feathers are along the outside part.

N, The feathers of the toes appear on the outsides. o, The middle tail feathers envelope the rump, and cover the bases of the large feathers of the tail.

P, The large tail feathers are in a regular line of seven on each side of the rump, and form the tail.

Q, The outside feathers of the shoulder cover a part of the other feathers of the wing. They form the shoulder.

R, The inside feathers of the shoulder are small, thin, and slender.

opened, a large arched surface, and are of different sizes. These s, The large feathers of the pinion form, when the wing is feathers grow out of the under side of the pinion. They ar partly covered by

T, The small outside feathers of the pinion. These feathers are of different sizes. They come on all the outside surface from the shoulder to the pinion. They begin quite small on

liquid manure. Mulch the surface over the roots, and keep on the mulching the outside edge, and finish a medium size on the under edge.

all the summer.

NAMES OF PLANTS (N. W.).—The Summer Snowflake, Leucojum æstivum. (M.). We cannot name plants from leaves only, and much less are we able from a piece of a leaf. (Constant Reader).-Viburnum Lantana. (Lieut.Col. W.).-Not in flower; perhaps Prunus virginiana. (Scar.).-Melica uniflora. (J. Morgan & Son).-A sight of the flower is absolutely necessary. (Mac).-1, Saxifraga hypnoides var.; 2, Claytonia sibirica; 3, Valerianella olitoria; 4, Saxifraga rotundifolia; 5, Phlox subulata; 6, Send again. (W. T.). -Lonicera alpigena. (O. M.).-2 is a Bouvardia, but you must send better specimens if you want names.

POULTRY, BEE, AND PIGEON CHRONICLE.

THE POULTRY-KEEPER.-No. 3.

THE PLUMAGE.

WITH the hen there may be three kinds of feathers distinguished-1, the large feathers on the wings for flying, and on the rump to form the tail; 2, the middle-sized feathers, which cover over the large feathers and are also found on the wing and rump; 3, the small feathers which cover the neck, the back, the sides, the throat, the shoulders, and a part of the wings. They are all of various sizes and forms in each of the three kinds of feathers. They are always in layers compactly covering those beneath them like tiles. We shall designate them by the name of the places they occupy, or the position they hold, and will refer to the engravings to render them easy to recognise (figs. 6, 7, 8, and 9). The letters of reference correspond with those of the four engravings, so that

u, The inside feathers of the pinion are close, middle-sized, and small, covering the bases of the large feathers of the pinion. v, The large flight-feathers or feathers of the hand are large and strong, and are of most use to the bird in locomotion. They begin at the under edge of that which is called the tip of the wing.

x, The outside flight-feathers cover the large ones, they are stiff and well flattened on the others.

Y, The inside flight-feathers are some small and others medium-sized, cover the bases of the flight-feathers.

z, An appendix called the pommel of the wing which represents the fingered part. It is at the joint of the pinion, and has some middle-sized feathers of the same description as the large pinion-feathers, and have some small ones to cover them. These feathers assist in the flight.

When the whole wing is folded, almost all the feathers are hidden by the large feathers of the pinion and middle external feathers. The classification of the feathers of the cock are the same as those of the hen, but the forms of some of them are different. With the cock the feathers which form the hackle are fine, fine-pointed, lengthened, displayed like a mane on the shoulders, and covering a part of the breast and the feathers behind the neck. Those of the back are very much of the same forms as in the hen. Those of the loins are also similar, but become larger as they approach the rump, hiding the abdomen and covering the thighs with pendant, long-pointed feathers. The middle feathers of the wing-coverts, without being pointed, participate of this nature. The middle feathers covering the tail change completely in form and size, being in the cock larger. They are of different proportions, and have all