Figue de Naples, Saint Ghislain, Soldat Laboureur, and Summer Bell I also find very reliable bearers, with some other good qualities to recommend them to the amateur Pear-culturist. -B. O. CURTIS, Paris, Ill.

As the father of Mr. Curtis set out a Pear orchard of 175 trees of some fifty varieties in Edgar county in 1840, now nearly thirty-four years ago (see Report Ill. State Hort. Soc., 1869), the above facts are given from a long observation and experience, and are of unusual value.-(Prairie Farmer.)

FRUIT PROSPECTS IN RUTLAND.

since we have become acquainted with that most useful book, just published, "Wood and its Uses." We shall refer to that again. Our strongness for trees-and that of many of our friends-has brought one and another of us under the shade of a majority of celebrated trees; we have had a Simpkin tiffen (anglicé, a champaign luncheon) under a Banian tree, the branches of which extended over an acre; we have gathered leaves from the Upas tree, and yet survive; we have lodged in the Chestnut of Mount Etna, and eaten its fruit; we have sat upon a trunk of the loftiest of the world's trees-the Wellingtonia gigantea; and one of us, some Easter in years long ago, attended service in the Oak of which we now give a portrait. That Oak, according to M. Du Breuil and Mr. Loudon, is about eight hundred years old. It measures, just above the roots, 35 feet in circumference, and, at between 5 and 6 feet from the ground, 26 feet. A little higher up the trunk extends to a greater size, and at 8 feet it separates into enormous branches, overshadowing a very large extent of ground. The trunk is quite hollow, but the leaves and acorns are abundant. The lower part of the trunk has for many years been employed as a chapel, being paved and wainscoted, and the entrance closed

quence is that fruit trees of all kinds are rushing into bloom. Pears in orchards and on walls are now a "blaze of beauty," and the prospect of a full crop is most promising. Plums are remarkable for the great quantity of flowers they are producing; on walls dessert varieties are set, and, we hope, past all danger of frost. Cherries are a sight worth going a journey to see, they are one mass of flowers; on walls they are set and swelling fast. Among Apples many of the late-keeping varieties are in flower, while the early kinds will not be in flower for a week hence. If the weather prove at all favourable we may expect an abundant crop of this esteemed fruit, as the trees are everywhere showing well. Small fruits of all kinds promise an abundant supply. Strawberries are showing for flower, Apricots were very much cut-up and are strong and healthy. by the frost on the 11th of March, when the thermometer All the flowers which had started registered 5°, or 27° of frost. to grow were killed, those which had not commenced to grow were saved, and a moderate crop is left; those on an east wall have suffered most. Peaches are a moderate crop. The present mild weather is very favourable for the setting of all kinds of fruit; therefore, from the present appearance of our gardens

and orchards in this district, we may look forward to realise an abundant supply of fruit in the coming summer.

Peas are in flower in the open borders, and we look forward to be able to gather by the last week in May.--JAMES SMITH, Exton Park Gardens.

EXTRACTS FROM NOTES ON A VOYAGE TO AUSTRALIA.

46

WHAT a cheery and honest ring there seems in Shakspeare's words where he says, "Come, my spade." There is no more ancient gentlemen than gardeners. They hold up Adam's profession." If it is not a profitable business, it is nevertheless a pleasant one and an honest one, and with truth may be said to be more ancient than the Golden Fleece or the Roman Eagle, and more honourable than the Star or Garter, or any other earthly profession in existence.

Melbourne, the capital of Victoria, where your humble correspondent in due time arrived, was in the wildest confusion and excitement. The "gold fever" was at its height. The contagion had spread everywhere.

I accepted an invitation to visit St. Kilda, the home of Mr. May, a nurseryman whom I previously met. He was an early acquaintance of mine, and his father had been one of my horticultural mentors when a young lad "in merrie England." Within his Vine-covered cottage in that beautiful suburban village I met with a hearty and hospitable welcome. Being a man after my own heart we readily agreed to explore the Botanic Gardens of Dr. Mueller fame. It was not the first time I had rambled through those excellent grounds, which presented so many attractions. Happily, they are better kept now than they were at the time of which I write. The same causes which had affected the Sydney Botanic Gardens had existed here. As is usual in all scientific establishments of a like nature, the gardens contained a good collection of the native and foreign flora, all of which were correctly named and properly arranged. The lake, or aquarium, was better stocked with aquatic plants than any other I ever saw. I could scarcely describe the many species without naming almost everything whose habitat was watery; but a few must suffice to mention where all were equally interesting-viz., Victoria regia, a regal plant in every respect; Papyrus antiquorum, P. odoratus, P. laxiflorus, Cyperus Luzula, C. strigosus, with several Xyris, Nelumbiums, Nymphæas, Nuphars, Pontederas, Limnocharis, Hottonias, Valisnerias, Sagittarias, Trapa bicornis (the Water Caltrops of China), &c.

ous.

There was also a fine collection of young Oaks, the species indigenous to this country especially. The same may be said of herbaceous plants. Most of the trees and shrubs with which the gardens were stocked were small though thrifty and vigorA few others I feel constrained to mention as having a special interest, and not often met with-in fact, all uncommon to Europeans and Americans. For instance, Parkia globosa, the Mitta Tree of Africa, and named in honour of the lamented traveller Mungo Park. Also the African Silver Tree, Leucadendron argenteum, a beautiful specimen; Erythrina corallodendron, the handsome Coral Tree, some 20 feet high; E. cristagalli, of fine arboreal proportions, and upwards of 30 feet high; Fagara Pterota, a native of Jamaica, an exceedingly beautiful tree, and then about 15 feet high. Perhaps the most interesting of all I noticed was the East Indian Teakwood tree, Tectona grandis. It appeared to be quite acclimated and thrifty. In India it is one of the most valuable timber trees grown, so generally useful: there it frequently attains to upwards of 100 feet high, and is highly esteemed for its uses in naval architecture, and is the most durable timber used for railway sleepers, &c. Agati grandiflora is a splendid tree of great beauty, a leguminous evergreen: literally, it is a flaming tree if not a burning bush. There was also a fair specimen of the remarkable Banyan tree of India, Ficus religiosa, or the sacred tree of the Hindoos. Lastly, another interesting and ornamental tree, Comocladia ilicifolia, a Caribbean native of peculiar habit. The smooth stems are foliated only on the extreme ends, and appear as if they were tied on in bunches. .

tumult with the miners on their way to and fro to Diggerdow.

Amid all this turmoil and commotion lived the complacent and happy Mr. Marlow, whose quiet deportment and steady equanimity nothing less than a thunderbolt or earthquake could shake or move from the even tenor of his way. He, sage and solid old gentleman, was contented, healthy, wealthy, and wise. He didn't go to the diggings. The golden changes which sounded so melodious in more sordid ears than his had no charms for him, although music and the love of song dwelt in him. Good old soul-yea, two of them; Mrs. Marlow, his helpmate, seemed so like him, and he seemed so like her, who was just such a rib as all good men deserve, from the region of the heart. I could hardly call her his "better half," although I believe wives generally are. They seemed so well mated, so evenly matched, so equally good, and though twain. were but one flesh. Truly, "they lived and loved together," believing in God and one another. They also loved sweet posies, Lilies, Pinks, and Roses," as all such happy people do. For them to cultivate fruits and flowers was a dual delight which they duly enjoyed and much prized. They had a garden, a real "garden of delights,"

"Where lawns extend that scorn Arcadian pride,
And brighter streams than fam'd Hydaspes glide."

not mistake it when I saw the garden: it was impossible. It When inquiring for the place, it was intimated that I could

was even so.

I have often thought since then, if I did not see at Geelong the first example of sub-tropical gardening, at any rate it was the first time I had ever seen such an array of the rich and the best of taste and good judgment, fully up to the present rare blended together in that character. There was displayed style of London and Paris of to-day. Such a galaxy of Australian beauties, with the floral bon ton of other lands, made me exclaim, Surely, the like before was never seen! You will recognise the following-namely, of tree Ferns: Cyathea medullaris, C. dealbata, C. Cunninghamii, and C. princeps, Alsophila australis, A. excelsa, A. Leichardtiana, Todea australis, Dicksonia squarrosa, D. antarctica, Cibotium Billardieri, Thamnopteris nidus, and T. australasica, &c., with many of the smaller-growing species.

Of Palms and Cycads I noticed Sabal Adansonii, Cycas revoluta, C. circinalis, Livistona borbonica, L. australis, Caryota urens, C. elegans, Euterpe edulis, Phoenix dactylifera, P. humilis, Rhapis flabelliformis, Corypha australis, Oreodoxa C. australis, Chamaerops excelsa, C. elegans, Macrozamia regia, Chamaedorea glaucifolia, Jubæa spectabilis, Cocos nucifera, spiralis. There were also several varieties of Bamboos, Zamias, Arundos, Cordylines, Dracenas, Philodendrons, Musas, Ficus, Marantas, Caladiums, Arums, Phormiums, Dieffenbachias, Crinums, Yuccas, Cannas, Aralias, Crotons, Saccharums, Acacias, Casuarinas, Araucarias, Hakeas, &c. Of Succulents and their alliances, such as Euphorbias, Rhipsalis, Opuntia, Epiphyllum, Aloes, Agaves, Mammillaria, Echinocactus, Kalosanthes, Crassula, Mesembryanthemums, Sempervivums, Haworthias, Stapelias, Dyckias, Echeverias, Umbilicus, &c.; also Achmeas, Tillandsias, Buonaparteas, Coccolobas, Fourcroyas,

&c.

of the death of that good old gentlewoman, Mrs. Marlow, some In conclusion, permit me to say that I subsequently heard four years after I left Australia; and in the year following her husband, boundary line of "the debateable land," and, leaving his earthly "that fine old English gentleman," crossed the Eden below, entered the one above.-(American Gardener's Monthly.)

NOTES AND GLEANINGS.

Taking passage on a small steamer which ran from Melbourne to Geelong, we passed down the muddy stream of the YarraYarra to Hobson's Bay and Corio Bay. At the head of the latter stands Geelong. It was then a rather straggling town, while now it is a fine city of considerable importance.

or two of this caterpillar, if allowed to spread over the tree, will quite strip it of leaves, as in the last stages of growth they eat voraciously. A far more difficult subject to deal with is the Apple maggot. This troublesome pest is also on the move, and can now be found curled up in the leaves and flowers. There is no more effectual way to destroy it than by hand-picking. In large orchards this would be impracticable, but in a garden where the trees are not large a man accustomed to the work can go over a number of trees in a day. Careful search is necessary, and the trees should be examined about once a-week. We are never troubled with the Gooseberry caterpillar, as the usual winter precaution taken effectually destroys the larva-that is, to remove the soil under the bushes to the depth of 3 inches, and replace it with fresh loam. Should the bushes be attacked with the caterpillar, dusting with white hellebore powder is the usual remedy. We ran the hoe through Strawberry and Raspberry beds; these had been hoed once or twice previously, but it is well to have every weed destroyed early in the season, as after "bedding-out" commences but little time can be spared for hoeing and weeding.

FORCING HOUSES.

Vineries.-The last few days have been a trying time to the early houses; the sun acted powerfully upon the leaves, and in some instances they were scalded. The leaves are formed at a time when the weather is dull and cold; much artificial heat is necessary to keep up the temperature of the house, consequently they are not of that robust healthy character which they would be if formed later in the season. Mixed some whitening in a pail of water, and syringed over the glass with it: this had the effect of shading the leaves sufficiently to prevent further injury. In a recent number allusion was made to painting the hotwater pipes with flowers of sulphur to destroy red spider. It has been necessary to do so in three houses. The best way is to heat the pipes so hot that it becomes uncomfortable to hold the hand on the flow. This should be done after the house is shut up in the afternoon. Dissolve two ounces of soft soap in a quart of soft water, and add flowers of sulphur until the mixture is like thin paint. Apply the sulphur to the pipes with a mat brush, and keep the pipes about the same heat all night, with the house closely shut up. Should the spider not be destroyed, repeat the operation in a few days.

We have been tying-down the shoots and stopping laterals in late vineries. In all our houses, late and early, the Vines are trained on what is called the short-spur system; the rods are not less than 2 feet 6 inches apart, and the spurs are about 18 inches apart on the rods. Under this management, and by stopping the laterals two leaves beyond the bunch, the house does not become crowded with leaves. It is not necessary to apply artificial heat to the houses at this time unless the weather should become cold. We ventilate freely by day, but shut-up the houses with sun heat in the afternoon.

lay the plants on their sides and syringe the insects out with clear tepid water.

Tying and thinning-out superfluous growths of climbing plants, such as Clerodendron Thomsonæ, Stephanotis floribunda, &c. It is not desirable to tie the shoots in closely, but rather let them hang down in an irregular manner and loopedup in festoons; but they must not interfere with the growth of other plants underneath them.

Palms.-The hardier species were potted two months ago, but the end of April or early in May is probably a better time to pot those that do not make roots freely. Amongst others, Phoenicophorium sechellarum requires a little extra care. It is a most noble species, but the potting material should be porous and well-drained; equal parts of turfy loam and tough fibrous peat are very suitable for it. The plant should also be grown in the hottest house, and in the hottest corner. In striking contrast to the broad noble foliage of this plant, are the species with graceful, arching, finely-divided leaves, of which Cocos Weddeliana and Chamaedorea graminifolia are the most beautiful, and also the most useful for decorative purposes in the dining or drawing-room. Four parts of good turfy loam to one of leaf mould are a very suitable potting material for them. Bouvardias of sorts. The most useful of all the Bouvardias for Potting-off young plants of Eranthemum pulchellum and cutting from is B. Vreelandii, though for decorative purposes B. jasminiflora is as good; indeed, the old plants which flowered in midwinter have been again a mass of flowers for at least a month, and they stand well in the greenhouse. Cuttings strike freely in a little bottom heat in the Cucumber house, and if grown-on without any check they will flower freely at Christmas. The Eranthemum also flowers in the winter, and is not do not stand well after being cut; but for decorative purposes in grown so much as it ought to be. It has one fault-the flowers the stove this is not an objection, as the continued succession J. DOUGLAS. of fresh flowers keeps the plants in full beauty for many weeks.

PROVINCIAL HORTICULTURAL EXHIBITIONS. [SECRETARIES will oblige us by informing us of the dates on which exhibitions are to be held. Although we cannot report and we wish for information on such specialities to be sent them fully, we shall readily note anything especially excellent, to us.]

Royal Horticultural of Ireland
Cambridgeshire
Manchester.....

Southampton
Blackburn..
Devon and Exeter

Undercliff

JUNK

MAY.

.22 to 29

25, 26, and 27

24

R.H.S. of Ireland

25

Coventry and Warwickshire...... 8 Bath and West of England ..8 to 12

season.

Plant Stove.-Many plants are now in full growth, and the more choice flowering specimens are either in flower or advancing to that stage. In previous numbers we have insisted on the necessity of having all the plants free from insect pests. There are many plants which it is undesirable to syringe; and some that ought to be syringed are, from necessity not from choice, placed amongst other plants that would be injured if their foliage were wetted daily. Such specimens must be washed with a sponge and soapy water. Some of the more choice Orchids are liable to great injury from the attacks of red spider. Dendrobium Devonianum is constantly being attacked, unless the plants are deluged with water from the syringe once or twice a-day. D. chrysotis is another, but such plants succeed well if syringed daily, and this will be the means of keeping them in good health. Another most insidious enemy is the white thrips, which attacks the Ladies' Slippers. Cypripedium Veitchianum is more subject to attack than any of the others, though all the C. barbatum section are preyed upon. The insects get into the heart of the plant, and fumigating the house sufficiently to destroy them will also injure the plants. The best way is to

York

Ipswich and E. of England 25 and

TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. Dicksons & Co., 1, Waterloo Place, Edinburgh.-Descriptive Catalogue of Florists' Flowers.

M. H. Merriam, Belvidere Greenhouses, near Centre Depôt, Lexington, Massachusetts.-List of Exotics and Floral Novelties.

We

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

It is particularly requested that no communication be addressed privately to either of the Editors of this Journal. All correspondence should be directed either to "The Editors," or to "The Publisher." Great delay often arises when this rule is departed from.

also request that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense.

BOOKS (T. V. Hill).-We do not know who publishes now those you mention.

SHRUBS, &C., FOR COVER IN A WOOD (M. H. M.).-Berberis Aquifolium, and where not much shaded, Berberis Darwinii, Aucuba japonica, Tree Box, Common Holly, Evergreen Privet, Butcher's Broom, Spurge Laurel, and enclosed is Scilla campanulata. Any florist could obtain it for you. It is a Periwinkles, especially Vinca elegantissima, near the paths. The flower you native of Spain and Portugal.

ARRANGEMENT OF FLOWERS IN A BORDER (Kildare Subscriber).-The effect of a border chequered with bold bright diamond-shaped masses of colour in the way you propose would be exceedingly glaring and offensive more especially in such a situation. Do not divide the border by a central

path, but throw it all into one piece, filling the centre with a mass of deep rich soarlet Geranium surrounded by an edging of four broad bands; the outer one of Golden Pyrethrum, followed by blue Lobelia, pink Verbena, and Cerastium, which would afford a pleasing piquant combination of soft fleecy yellow, deep blue, pink, soft grey, and deep scarlet. Plant the bands thickly, so that each may present a compact clearly-defined line of colour, and take care that each line be kept distinct throughout the season.

PRIMROSE (S.).—It is not at all unusual for what are called or thought to be Primroses to throw-up a scape as the season advances and become a Polyanthus. Such plants are not true Primroses, but cross-breds with the Polyanthus. True Primroses like the single and double white, the double lilac, double purple, double crimson, single red, and many others, never throw-up a scape. Such a flower as you have sent, if it preserved the Primrose character, would have been worth preserving, but having become a Polyanthus it has no novelty about it. We have seen some flowers highly esteemed as Primroses which, when they became Polyanthuses, lost all their value.

RAISING VARIETIES (Truly a New Beginner).-You may raise new varieties of fruits simply by sowing their seeds and stones, but the probability is that not one so raised will equal in quality established old varieties. Those who understand the merits and deficiencies of fruits and flowers diminish the chances of failure by applying the pollen of one variety to the pistils of another variety. We do not know where the variety you mention can be obtained yet; it will be advertised, probably.

BEETLE DESTROYING PEAS (E. H. O.).-It is the spotted weevil, Curculio macularius. Try sprinkling soot thickly over the leaves whilst the dew is on them, and cover the surface of the soil with soot.

ROYAL MUSCADINE VINE AGAINST HOUSE (F. J.).-The upright canes from the rod at the base of the wall should be 2 feet, or better 2 feet 6 inches apart, and instead of pinching-back the shoots, not "laterals," between these they should be rubbed-off, except one in the centre of each, and the intermediate one should be stopped at the sixth leaf. The laterals are shoots that proceed from the growths of the present year, and those you may stop at the first leaf, and at every joint as fresh growth is made. What is the information you seek respecting the Black Hamburgh in the ground vinery ?

MULCHING AND GUANO FOR ROSES (Idem).-It is too early to mulch Boses with spent hops. The end of May or early part of June is early enough, unless the weather be unusually dry, which it hardly will be in your climate, but your soil being very porous you may apply the mulching earlier than would be necessary in a stiff soil. Before putting on the mulch you may sprinkle guano around each tree at the rate you name, but, unless moist weather, it would be better to give it in a liquid form, and not so strong; 1 oz. to a gallon of water is sufficient.

GOOSEBERRIES AND BLACK CURRANTS UNFRUITFUL (R. H. F.).-Your friends may advise you aright; we do not think so. The bushes having only a few leaves at the points of the shoots must have had the buds removed by birds, probably bullfinches. There is no kind of Gooseberry bud or fruit that birds will not take. The only thing you can do is to improve your unfavourable soil. We presume it is well drained; if not, it should be, and we should' then add to it some road scrapings, ashes, and other materials calculated to lighten it, and manure well. By these means, and keeping the birds from taking the buds, you will probably have fruit in a year or two abundantly,

AUCUBA JAPONICA BERRIES (J. D. D.).—Separate the seeds from the pulp or husk, as yours will be if dried, and sow them at once in a compost of three parts turfy loam, and half a part each of leaf soil and sandy peat, with a sixth of silver sand, in a pot or pan efficiently drained. Cover them about half an inch deep with fine soil. Place in a greenhouse or frame, and keep moist.

DEPTH OF WATER FOR WATER LILIES (J. A. C.).—The depth of water should not be less than 1 foot, and must not exceed 3 feet; the mean of these depths we consider most suitable, or 2 feet.

HYBRID PERPETUAL ROSES FOR AUGUST (An Amateur).-The Roses should be pruned at the end of May, letting the shoots from the points grow in the meantime, and this will keep the eyes at the base of the shoots dormant, after which shade from sun by an awning, and sprinkle overhead twice daily until they have broken, then remove the awning, and keep well supplied with water during dry weather.

SUPERLATIVE PEA FOR AUGUST (Idem).—It will be about sixteen weeks from the time of sowing till the pods be fit to gather, therefore arrange accordingly.

LAWN MOSSY (4 Constant Subscriber).-Lime and soot are good applications, the latter especially, as from its encouraging the growth of the grass the moss is overpowered. It may be applied now in showery weather; one peck per rod (304 square yards), is a good dressing. If very mossy we should scratch the lawn well with an iron rake so as to remove the moss, and when this is done apply a dressing of lime compost. This may consist of nine parts of rich compost-refuse of any kind that has been laid-up and turned over until decayed, mixed with one part of lime a few days before application to the lawn, on which it may be placed from a quarter to half an inch deep. Afterwards well rake the lawn, and clear off any stones or rubbish. Sow over it, with an early prospect of rain, in April or May, 6 lbs. Festuca duriuscula, 8 lbs. Cynosurus cristatus, 4 lbs. Poa nemoralis sempervirens, and 8 lbs. Trifolium minus, for one acre. After sowing roll well, and for a few times do not mow very closely, keeping well roiled.

Cut

BIGNONIA RADICANS CULTURE (Lady Jane).-It blooms on the short stubby shoots that appear from the well-ripened wood or shoots of last year. away all the weak and unripe wood as well as thin-out the old, avoiding overcrowding, training-in the shoots of this year evenly over the wall, and so that each may have air and light. They will only need to have their unripe parts removed in the following spring, and from them you should have flowering shoots, which are best hanging loosely; the only pruning they require is thinning-out, shortening, and regulating, always leaving firm wellripened wood of last year at the spring pruning for flowering shoots to issue from. If by "highly dressed" you mean top-dressings of rich compost, we may say that it and all plants against walls are benefited by these, as also frequent syringing in the evenings of hot days, and liberal supplies of water in dry weather, but syringing ought not to be longer continued than the early part of August.

sary. Keep the house well ventilated. The flowers are produced from the points of the shoots; to stop the shoots, therefore, would prevent their flowering. During the summer months, or after May, we leave a little air on at night in our greenhouses, and advise it in your case, but not much, as it may lower the temperature too much to allow of the Grapes ripening.

WHITE AGERATUM FROM SEED-FUMIGATING FERNS (Idem).—The white variety of Imperial Dwarf Ageratum comes true from seed, and makes nice plants if sown in March, and grown on by bedding-out time. It is a good white bedder. It is now late to sow the seed; but if you sow in heat and prick-off an inch apart when the seedlings have two leaves, growing them on in a frame, you may have plants fit to put out in June, but they will not flower until late in the season. Ferns are to a certain extent injured by fumigation, especially the Adiantums when young; but if care be taken to moisten the floor, but not the fronds of the Ferns, and not to fill the house very full of smoke, no injury will result. The best quality of tobacco-paper only should be used. WIRES FOR GREENHOUSE VINES (J. Bayet).-The wire should be No. 6 gauge, and to each rafter you will need three wires-one immediately under the rafter to train the rod to, and one on each side for the shoots, which should be 9 inches distant. You will need supports for hangers for the wires, and these should be 3 or 4 feet apart, screwed into the rafters, and so that the wires may be 15 inches from the glass. We prefer this, the old-fashioned, mode of wiring for greenhouses. The Vines ought not, for plants to do well, to be nearer than 4 feet. The Vine border ought to be composed of the top 2 or 3 inches of a pasture where the soil is a rich light loam, taken off with its turf, and chopped-up rather roughly, in squares say of 4 to 6 inches, and to eight parts of this add one of old mortar rubbish from an old building, and half a part each sandstone, in pieces from the size of a walnut to a hen's egg, and charcoal, and to this you may add one-twentieth of half-inch bones, the whole well mixed, and put in 1 foot higher than the intended level. The border should be 3 feet 6 inches deep, and you should have 9 inches to a foot of drainage. It is a matter for you to determine whether you will need to provide drains to the border. An old gravel pit filled-up with loose materials should not need any, but we should nevertheless provide rubble drainage over the whole of the border.

PRESERVING WOODEN LABELS (Critic).-We have seen the recommendation to soak the labels in a solution of sulphate of iron, but to preserve the how to preserve the writing on the labels. wood is of very little consequence-we, and all gardeners, would hail as a benefit

TULIP (F. H.).-We cannot aid you. Florists' varieties are too numerous and too nearly alike for us to attempt to name them.

CHRYSANTHEMUM LEAVES DISEASED (R. H. C.).-We have seen leaves affected as yours are on isolated plants in a collection, but never a whole collection. We attribute it to the check the plants receive after being repotted when the operation is not carefully performed, and when water is applied to the roots in large quantities before the roots are again in active growth. This is the case with your plants, or they have received a check in some other way.

PEACH-TREE MANAGEMENT (G. A. T.).—Superfluous young wood may be cut out after the fruit is stoned, or even earlier than this. There is nothing to be gained, on the contrary much loss results, from allowing the wood to become crowded. The strongest shoots should be removed. The same treatment applies to wall trees out of doors.

WALL FRUIT NOT SETTING (A Constant Reader, and J. P., York).—It is not desirable to root-prune fruit trees when they blossom abundantly. Spring frosts are most to be feared when trees are in blossom. All the trees named set their fruit freely with us. Governor Wood Cherry is the most abundant bearer in our collection. We fancy the fruit will set this year. If it do not, there must be some local cause of which we are not aware.

ERECTING A GREENHOUSE (M. H. L.).—An excellent guide for you will be "Wood and its Uses" by P. B. Eassie. It is published by Eassie & Co., Gloucester.

AUCUBA JAPONICA BERRIES SOWING (Scybor).-Separate the seeds from the husk and pulp, and sow them in pots or pans of light loam with a little leaf soil and sand, covering them about half an inch deep, and place them in a frame or greenhouse, keeping moist. The plants may appear in about six weeks, and sometimes they do not come up until the spring after sowing. They require to be kept safe from frost.

ROSEMARY OVERGROWN (Rollo).—If the plant is bare at the bottom, without any green parts, it is likely that if cut-in very closely it would not again grow. If you can cut it back leaving some green parts, well; otherwise it would be desirable to put in some slips in light soil in a sheltered border, and when these were rooted you might cut-in the old plants. If it die, replace with a young plant, which should be cut-in annually so as to be compact. Dr. Hogg in his "Vegetable Kingdom," page 577, writing of Rosemary states, "As & medicine Rosemary is tonic, exciting, stimulates the nervous system, cordial, cephalic, and promotes the circulation. It is considered serviceable in vertigo, hysteria, headaches, hypochondria, paralysis, humid catarrh, and all the affections of debility, as certain chloroses, leucorrhoeas, and also as an em menagogue. It is sometimes used in the form of snuff, or mixed along with other herbs for the same purpose. The whole plant is employed as a condiment; powdered, it serves many purposes in confectionary, and to form fra grant packets for perfuming wardrobes and clothing." It is a good bee-flower. WATER TANKS CORRODING (Idem).-Your tanks when dry should be thoroughly scraped and rubbed, clearing away all the rusty parts of the iron, and painted three or four coats with red-lead paint, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before putting on the other.

STRAWBERRIES FOR ORCHARD HOUSE (Idem).-Your house having Vines will be too shaded for the growth of Strawberries in pots on the borders. Besides, if the house is closely planted with Vines, neither Strawberries nor fruit trees in pots will succeed. You may have shelves so contrived that the plants of Strawberries will be about 1 foot from the glass, and on these you may stand the pots now. It is not too late, though the plants are showing their flower trusses. Good kinds are Sir Joseph Paxton, President, and Dr. Hogg. Cockscomb and British Queen are also good.

DRYING ANEMONES (G. S.).—There is the advantage of having the ground for other things, and the growth is so retarded that they do not flower nearly so early, and so escape frost. The chief thing with Anemones is to ensure for them a season of perfect rest of not too long duration, October being the time indicated by Nature; but if planted then, it is necessary to afford protection from frost in winter; and if planted in January, or as early in February as the weather permits, protection will not be necessary, but the flowering will be later. A. fulgens is best left in the ground, but may be taken up and