for stone on the opposite side of a ravine masses of rock had fallen over, and these constitute the bed over which the water has been conducted, forming a grand waterfall, which owes more to nature than to art.

The kitchen garden is also on a slope facing southward, and forms a long strip of no great extent. The principal glass structures are three vineries-namely, a lean-to as an early house, in which are also Strawberries and Azaleas; a ridgeand-furrow Hamburgh house, in which the Vines will be started about this time; a Muscat house; and a greenhouse, in which there was a fine show of Chinese Primulas. In a smaller house were greenhouse Ferns, Roses, and a few Orchids. Other small houses were chiefly filled with bedding plants. The glass, however, is a comparatively unimportant part of the establishment; nor is fruit-growing out of doors carried on to any considerable extent, the claims of the place to notice resting on its fine natural position and the advantage to which this has been turned. Too much has not been attempted, and the extent of ground under keeping is not very large, but everything has been carried out tastefully and well, and the hard-working gardener, Mr. Young, deserves great credit for the excellent order which prevails in all departments, especially as he has so little assistance.

DR. NEILL ARNOTT.

DR. ARNOTT, eminent as a physician and master of many sciences, died on the 2nd inst., at his residence, 2, Cumberland Terrace, Regent's Park, and his memory claims to be preserved in our pages, specially for having benefited cultivators of fruit and exotic plants, by the invention of what is known to all gardeners as "Arnott's stove." The Times tells us that he was a native of Upper Dysart, near Montrose, and was born about the year 1788. He was a fellow pupil with Lord Byron at the grammar school at Aberdeen, and afterwards graduated at the University of that northern city, of which he has been at different times a munificent benefactor. Coming to London in 1806, he became a pupil of Sir Everard Home, through whose influence he obtained an appointment as a surgeon in the East India Company's medical service. Much of the experience which he gleaned in the East he afterwards turned to good account in his " Elements of Physics." Settling in London in 1811, he soon obtained a large practice, and in 1815 was appointed physician to the French Embassy and shortly afterwards to the Spanish Embassy. In 1827 he published the work above alluded to, which has since gone through very many editions and become a text book, being an amplification of certain lectures on the application of natural philosophy to medicine, which he had delivered some years previously in one of the hospitals. In 1838 he gave to the world his "Essay on Warming and Ventilation," and carrying his scientific theories out into practice, he devised the "stoves" which bear his name, for which invention he was rewarded by the Royal Society with the Rumford Medal several years afterwards. For this and for other novel applications of science to the treatment of disease and the preservation of the public health, the jurors of one department of the Universal Exposition of Paris of 1855 awarded to him a gold medal, to which the Emperor added the Cross of the Legion of Honour. In 1835 Dr. Arnott was appointed a member of the Senate of the University of London; in 1837 he was named one of the Physicians Extraordinary to Her Majesty, and in the following year elected a Fellow of the Royal Society. In 1854 he was requested by the President of the General Board of Health to become one of his Medical Council. As the inventor of the "Arnott stove," the "Arnott ventilator," and the water bed, for which many a sufferer owes him a debt of gratitude, it is not likely that his name will soon be forgotten; but it deserves to be recorded in his honour that he constantly refused to patent his inventions, from the wide use of which he might have reaped, had he pleased, a handsome income. This, however, he declined to do; he sought a higher reward than that which money could have given him; and accordingly what he sought he found before his decease.

THE CULTIVATION AND AFTER-TREATMENT OF GLOXINIA, GESNERA, AND ACHIMENES. IN starting the roots of Gloxinias (which may be done every six weeks if you have a hothouse) they should be taken out of the old soil and repotted into 4 or 6-inch pots, according to the size of the tubers, in a compost of light sandy peat and leaf

mould, and a small portion of well-rotted cow dung, which will enrich it, taking care to give plenty of drainage.

The tubers of the Gloxinias and Gesneras will only require to be pressed on the surface of the soil. Achimenes will require to be covered with at least half an inch of soil; then place in a warm close frame in the greenhouse, so that they may get plenty of light. There is nothing to beat a pit to grow them to perfection, with a good moist bottom heat from a bed of tan, dung, or leaves-the latter is preferable, being easily procured-also a lasting nice sweet temperature of from 60° to 70°, when they will make free growth. Give them plenty of water. It is as easy to grow good Gloxinias, Gesneras, and Achimenes as it is a few Cucumbers; and an amateur can have them do well in his greenhouse or pit. Use the syringe rather freely as they grow; and as the temperature rises it will with these, as with most other subjects, induce clean and vigorous growth. The thrips, one of the worst pests of our greenhouses, will attack this class of plants with avidity, more particularly the Achimenes. Even the bloom will not be spared if they are allowed to get ahead. They can also be well grown in ordinary frames.

About the middle of March prepare fresh stable manure, in the same manner as for early frame Cucumbers, then let the same quantity of leaves be collected and mixed with the dung, sufficient to form a good substantial bed, with a steady heat of about 70°-let the dimensions of this bed be about 3 feet larger every way than the frame to be used-cover the whole with 6 inches of soil of any kind, or sifted coal ashes, for plunging in the pots or pans. The end of March will be time enough to put in the tubers, taking care to use soil warmed to the temperature of your frame or pit; shut up close for a few days, and give no water. Open the sash every fine morning to prevent the heat rising above 75°. Aim at a night temperature of from 55° to 60°. After a few leaves have shown themselves, water carefully, and sprinkle over the leaves in the after part of the day, just before the sun is off the glass, and shut up immediately. Should we get a spell of cold weather, and the thermometer indicate a lower temperature, renew the heating material by removing the outer portion of your bed by cutting quite to the bottom, then replace with fresh hot stable dung, or dung and leaves. This will not, however, require so much preparing as the dung for the original bed, as the excessive heat will not come in immediate contact with your plunged pots, your object being at this time to maintain a steady heat of 75°. Water of nearly the same temperature as the frame, or at least tepid, must always be used at this season, and shade from the midday sun. As they start into flower give more air, and plenty of water; and as they expand, remove them from the frame to the greenhouse, first to the warmest, then to the coolest part of the house, to prolong their season of bloom. After they have done flowering, put the earliest batch in a warm place out of doors. Water moderately, each week giving less, to encourage them to go to rest. Later batches, after flowering, can be placed on their sides under the partial shade of trees, or a wall, where they will get sufficient sun to thoroughly ripen them. By the end of September, or early part of October, they ought to be all brought into their winter quarters until wanted to perform their routine of work again.— (American Gardener's Monthly.)

NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING.

Culture of Hardy Annuals.-About the beginning of March commence sowing the seed after the following manner:-Stir the soil, and make it firm with the hand if it be light; if not, with a small hand-hoe or fork; then, with the finger, draw a circular drill of about 6 inches in diameter in the circle, and 1 inch or less deep, according to the size and habit of the plant intended to be sown. Cover the seeds lightly with moist soil, and place an inverted flower-pot over them if convenient to do so; allow the pot to remain until the seeds have begun to grow, able to bear the weather, afterwards remove it altogether. then prop it on one side 2 or 3 inches high until the plants are Covering the seed with a pot answers several good purposes: First, it keeps the soil moist until the seeds have vegetated; second, the sun shining on the pot causes a reflection of confourth, it prevents the soil from being washed off the seeds, or siderable heat; third, it screens them from the spring frosts; the seeds themselves being washed away by heavy rains; and about an inch high they must be thinned-out according to the fifth, it preserves from birds and mice. When the plants are kind, that those remaining may be able to grow and flower strongly. The height the plants grow must also guide the person as to what part of the border they ought to occupy, which,

where the selection is choice, may be known by referring to a nurseryman's list.

Flowers.-As bulbs are all above ground, flower borders may now be forked-up, giving them a dressing of leaf mould or rotten dung. Herbaceous plants that are spreading too much should be divided, so as to occupy less room. Everything about the villa should be trimmed-up and kept neat, as this is always a mark of taste and industry.-W. KEANE.

It is an undoubted fact that all plants like fresh soil and leaf mould, and any person who has a supply of these two, with good peat and silver sand, may, without any further assistance from soils, grow any plant.

A plant in a pot is in the most artificial state in which it can be placed, as its roots, instead of being some degrees warmer than the atmosphere which surrounds them, as they would be if planted in the natural soil, are, from the current of air constantly passing round the pot, and the consequent evaporation from its surface, some degrees colder. This circumstance alone is enough to account for our precarious success; but when, in addition to this, it is recollected that the roots are constantly alternating between drought and moisture, that they are violently excited at one time, and actually flagging for want of water at another, the wonder is that the cultivation of delicate and fine-rooted plants is not attended with more disappointment than has hitherto been experienced.

The general method pursued in potting plants, till within the last dozen years, was to sift the soil as fine as possible, to use little or no drainage, and when thej plant required more pot-room, to give it only a very small shift, and that at some stated period. Ladies who love gardening, and have a limited number of favourites which they tend with their own fair hands, are often at fault with reference to the soil which they should employ for potting. The soil that will suit plants in general I have given above; and as this is the season when the plants in the pits and frames which have survived the winter require repotting, the amateur must make himself acquainted with the best method of performing the operation, that his collection may have a good chance of future development. My observations on this subject will principally regard those who have not a greenhouse, and will refer to those classes of plants which may be kept with care during our winters in frames, such as Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Calceolarias, Verbenas, Petunias, &c. These having been stored away in very small pots, must now be transferred to more roomy quarters, and finally potted previous to blooming.

The fumigating of plant houses and frames is a troublesome matter, especially to amateurs, and hence the following plan which I have practised lately may prove interesting to some :Provide a strong solution of nitre in water, in which soak some sheets of strong brown paper, and afterwards dry it slowly and cut it into lengths of convenient size, the largest 18 inches by 12 inches; then get some strong tobacco and strew it thinly over the paper, and with a coarse pepper-box dredge-in a good coat of common cayenne pepper, wrap the whole up loosely like a cigarette, paste the end over, and when dry it is fit for use. Two or three of these suspended by a wire under a greenhouse stage, and lighted at each end, will quickly settle the accounts of the green fly and thrips, and that with comparatively little trouble; indeed, if a quantity of these cigarettes are kept ready made, a few plants may be put into a pit or small room and be cleaned, at least have their insect pests destroyed, in a very short time. By using cayenne much less tobacco is required, and the effect of the two combined is most deadly; for as the cigarettes will burn for a considerable time, say an hour or more, it is impossible for insects to live in an atmosphere so thoroughly suffocating.

As the season for grafting is at hand, it may be noted that the appearance of Thorn hedges may be much improved by grafting the scarlet and other varieties on the top shoots. These should be allowed to grow up at different distances along the hedge, which should be regulated according to the size of the garden and the taste of: he amateur. A few hardy Roses may also be planted in the fence, and trained in it. When these are in bloom the blossoms projecting a little beyond the hedge only appear, and render it very ornamental. Some of the Roses might also be budded on tall stocks above the top of the hedge as standards. Vegetables. This is an important time for getting in crops of several kinds. Ground should be in readiness for Onions, Carrots, &c., which should be sown in drills as soon as the weather will permit. Of the former the Strasburg and James's Keeping are good kinds. Make up deficiencies in Cabbage rows, and sow a small patch for succession in a warm border. The Early Battersea, which has numerous aliases, is as profitable a kind as any. Of Potatoes, a few Ashleaf Kidney may be planted for an early crop.

Fruit.-See that all standards are now pruned, and that the training of wall trees is finished. This is a good time for grafting Apples, Pears, &c.

FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN.

THE nights have been cold, the thermometer falling occasionally below the freezing point. This has served to retard the blossom on the fruit trees, yet the Pears, Plums, and other hardy fruits are in a forward state; all are well set with blossom buds. A correspondent writes for information about the Gooseberry caterpillar. Wherever the bushes were overrun last year, and if no steps have been taken to destroy the larva, there is almost a certainty that they will again be attacked. If spent tanner's bark can be obtained readily and fresh out of the pits, this, spread under the bushes to the depth of 2 or 3 inches, will destroy the larvae which are buried there, but it ought to be done at once. When ground is being trenched during winter, the surface soil to the depth of 3 inches should be removed from under the bushes and buried in the bottom of the trench; fresh soil must be taken from the ground that is being trenched to supply the place of the old.

Morello Cherry trees on the north wall are very forward, they have just been nailed. Old trees of this sort are sometimes disfigured by some of the branches dying-off. These must be cut out and the live wood removed to fill up the blank spaces. As the Morello does not form spurs but bears on the young wood, this must be nailed-in more thickly than is usual with Elton, May Duke, and other large-leaved varieties. Where wall trees are in flower see that the protecting material is let down whenever there are evident signs of frost.

Planted out the old roots of Sea-kale that had been forced, also the smaller roots left over from the plants raised from seeds sown a twelvemonth ago. The ground had been previously trenched and manured; and in planting, some coal ashes were placed round the roots.

Allusion was made a few weeks ago to the merits of some of the new American Potatoes. Amateurs and others who may wish to try some of them will find the Extra Early Vermont the most valuable for small gardens. As the sets are high-priced it is desirable to make the most of them. We had five Potatoes to a pound of the abovenamed sort; they were cut into fifty-four sets, and these were potted separately in 60-sized pots in light soil, and as soon as the sprouts show above ground they will be planted out.

Peas.-Sowed the second crop, comprising early and late sorts. Alpha, William I., and Taber's Early Perfection are the best early sorts; for later, use Supreme and some of the earlier Marrows. A variety sent out last year named G. F. Wilson is earlier than Veitch's Perfection and of sterling merit. Champion of England, long a favourite variety, will scarcely hold its own amongst the claimants for popular favour.

Onions and Parsnips.-Ours were sown three weeks ago. Those who have not yet sown their main crops should do so at once. Advantage should be taken of the present favourable weather to get all the crops in and to push forward the work.

FRUIT AND FORCING HOUSES.

Pineries.-A very important matter in Pine culture is the plunging material, which ought not to be one that is subject to early decay, and it should also maintain an equable temperature. Spent tan fresh from the yards is very good where it can be obtained, but in country places Oak or Beech leaves are often used to good purpose. Neither of the above can be readily obtained with us, and, as previously stated, the refuse from a cocoa-mat and brush factory has been tried. So far it has answered admirably; the heat is about 90°, and if this is maintained as long as it is with tan, it will be a great boon to us, as besides its being more readily obtained, it is also cleaner to use and the plants can be plunged in it with greater acility. Where fruit had been cut of Smooth-leaved Cayenne and Charlotte Rothschild there were suckers to put in; these were potted in 6 and 7-inch pots. Suckers that were potted late in the autumn were also shifted into larger pots, 9-inch being mostly used. The plants were making fresh roots, but the old soil was not in good condition, and a large proportion of it had to be removed; they were not watered for at least ten days after repotting. In the fruiting houses, where fruit is swelling, the temperature should now be 70° at night, with a proportionate rise by day; plenty of atmospheric moisture is necessary now.

Placed a fresh batch of Keens' Seedling Strawberry in heat; as soon as the new leaves are formed the plants are supplied with weak liquid manure. We are drifting more into the practice of using the manure water at each watering, believing that it is better to apply the water very weak and often than it is to apply it double the strength and alternately with clear water. Place the plants close to the glass, water and syringe freely.

Cucumbers and Melons.-The plants put out a few weeks ago will be making good progress, but the nights are yet cold, so that it will be necessary to cover the glass with mats every night. The lights should be tilted a very little just as the sun begins to act on the glass in the morning, so that the leaves may dry before the temperature rises to its maximum. When cold north-easters are blowing some close netting hung over the apertures will temper the keenness of the air. Plants grown in houses and trained to trellises overhead are much more easily managed than those in frames; and where the bottom heat is applied from hot-water pipes, as it ought to be, there is no danger of the roots being burned by too great heat. The plants, however, become a prey more readily to the attacks of red spider, but this may at least be kept in check by syringing daily with tepid water, which at present is best done just before the ventilators are opened in the morning. When the days are longer syringing at night is also beneficial.

Orchard House.-The trees are now in blossom, and as there is plenty of sunshine with drying though cold winds, the fruit will probably set well. Close muggy weather is the worst for orchard-house trees when they are in flower. It is a tedious process to go over a large house with a small camel-hair pencil to set the flowers, but a few of the more shy-setting sorts may be so treated. Shaking the trees gently with the hand, or tapping them gently with a stout stick, will distribute the pollen sufficiently to cause the main collection to bear an abundant crop. Pear and Plum trees have been left out of doors until now. The small house in which they are placed to flower, and where they remain until the fruit is set, has no heating apparatus, and the later in the season the blossoms open the less chance is there of injury by frost.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Many species of hardwooded New Holland and other plants are attacked by red spider, and as this pest is now waking-up into active life, search should be made and means used for its destruction. Two old-fashioned plants, favourites of our boyhood, and which would create a sensation at South Kensington if placed on the exhibition-table there, used to be famous resorts of the red spider-viz., Clianthus puniceus, the Glory Pea of New Zealand, and the Cantua dependens. Both are readily propagated by cuttings placed under bell-glasses, and they will well repay any care bestowed upon them. The best potting material is turfy loam and turfy peat in equal proportions, and made sufficiently porous by the addition of silver sand. The plants should be placed near the glass in the greenhouse, and be shifted into larger pots as they require it. Should they become pot-bound in an early stage of their growth, their leaves will become yellow and drop off, giving a naked appearance. The same effect is produced if red spider effects a lodgment on them. Both plants grow freely and may be shifted twice during the growing season; they are also of straggling growth, and should be trained to sticks placed round the inside of the rims of the pots. The Clianthus produces clusters of its large, crimson, Pea-like flowers in May; the Cantua a profusion of its large, orange-red, tubular flowers in March and April, and these are so wax-like and distinct in character as at once to command attention.

Camellias have flowered late this year, and as the sun is now powerful in the afternoon they require shade. Should Azaleas be required to flower in May place the plants in a gentle heat, and syringe in the morning. The usual routine work has been re-arranging plants, placing fresh batches in the forcing houses, and removing those showing flowers.

FLOWER GARDEN.

It will not be necessary to reiterate the remarks about cleanliness. The lawn should be swept and rolled whenever necessary, and the edgings should be cut round with an edging iron. Scilla amona, Erythronium dens-canis, and such-like coming through the surface have been looked to, as in digging the borders too much soil was heaped over them. Primroses were also divided where more stock of choice varieties was required, and the plants examined for slugs. Potting and boxing bedding plants have been finished, except spring-struck plants, which will be attended to as soon as they are ready. Finished pruning the Roses; a number of plants were left until the present time, as, for one reason, a succession of flowers are obtained. Many of the recently introduced Roses are of weakly growth; these must be well cut back. Others have a tendency to form a thicket of wood, which must be thinned-out in a regular manner. Stronggrowing sorts should not be closely cut back.-J. DOUGLAS.

TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. James Dickson & Sons, 108, Eastgate Street, Chester.-Catalogue of Farm Seeds, Implements, &c.

W. Clibran & Son, Oldfield Nursery, Altrincham.-Catalogue of New and Choice Plants and Seeds.

G. C. Short, Market Place, Stokesley.-Descriptive Catalogue of Choice Seeds for Flower and Kitchen Garden, &c.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

We request that no one will write privately to any of the correspondents of the "Journal of Horticulture, Cottage Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By so doing they are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All communications should therefore be addressed solely to The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture, &c., 171, Fleet Street, London, E.C.

N.B.-Many questions must remain unanswered until next week.

REV. W. GILPIN (Hibernicus).-In a future number, as it may interest others of our readers, we will publish some biographical notes relative to this lover and describer of the "picturesque."

VILLAGE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETIES (G. F. E.; A. Rogers).--We published rules in No. 538 of this Journal. You can have it post free for four postage stamps.

GOLD WITHY (Southton).-The name has no relation to the Willow. It is the name known in the New Forest, Hants, for the Sweet Gale, Myrica Gale. Although Withy, or Withie, is the Anglo-Saxon for the Willow, it is also the name in that language for any twisted rod-any plant's branch that is used as a band when twisted. Thus in the New Forest Hoar Withy (grey rod) is the name by which the White Beam, Sorbus Aria, is known, the term grey

referring to the whiteness of the under side of its leaves.

OLD VINES OF BLACK HAMBURGH (A Young Gardener).-It is difficult to say how many bunches of fruit may be left on an old Vine that has hitherto only borne bunches averaging half a pound each, because if you have been renovating the Vine at the roots it ought not to be overcropped until fully re-established. If you have not done anything to the Vines we think you might leave thirty bunches or more on each, if the weight does not excced what you say. We would, however, recommend you to see about lifting them in October if you can; and another year, or rather the season after that, larger bunches may be expected, and of course fewer of them will do.

GRAFTING AZALEAS AND CAMELLIAS (Idem).-We are not acquainted with usually grafted by inarching-that is, the stock is brought to the plant the any work bearing on this subject alone, but we may say the Camellia is scion is to be taken from, and a suitable portion of the young wood of the latter is grafted either by the tongue process or a plain splice, and being tied together remains until a junction is made. In such a way we have scen a great number of pots, each with a stock in it, raised and propped up around a large plant that was grafted to them, a little moss being tied round be facilitated. For Azaleas, take the scion off and graft in the usual way, proeach junction. If the place could be kept close and rather damp growth would vided a damp close frame is to be had; but where large quantities are worked and constant attention can be given, success is more certain than in the case of an amateur. One of the main secrets of success is an atmosphere which assists the scion after it is separated from the growing plant, until it becomes united by the flow of sap to the plant which is to support it.

ADIANTUM FARLEYENSE (F. K.).-It is a Fern which requires a warm house. The place you name may suit it during the summer months, but we are not at all sanguine of your success in winter.

of the answer you say we gave you months since, but probably the following LAWN GRASS WEAK AND PATCHY (Rus in Urbe).-We have no recollection treatment will improve your lawn-Apply a dressing of very rotten manure to the lawn now, or rich compost, and early in April rake it well with an iron rake, and sow over it 6 lbs. Festuca duriuscula, 8 lbs. Cynosurus cristatus, and 8 lbs. Trifolium minus, with 4 lbs. Poa nemoralis sempervirens in mixture for one acre. Rake lightly after sowing, and roll well, not mowing until May, and then keep well mown and rolled. A dressing of guano in moist weather

in May would much improve the growth of the grass.

MELONS IN A GREENHOUSE (R. F. B.).-It is possible to cultivate Melons in a warm greenhouse in the hottest part of the summer, but you must not expect to grow anything else in it, and the permanent plants will be very much injured. We have seen a good crop of Melons in a newly planted vinery where the Vines had not done well, and were destroyed in June and Melons

planted. So much, however, depends on the season and other matters that it is difficult to give a decided opinion; but we may say that growing Melons on the roof of a low pit is about the best mode that can be adopted, as it allows of the under side of the foliage being syringed to keep down the red spider, and the fruit can easily be supported by small pieces of netting or some other contrivance. The atmospheric heat after the end of May is usually sufficient for the plant when grown in a closely glazed structure that can be shut up rather early in the afternoon; but in general a greenhouse may be more agreeably used in growing Balsams, Fuchsias, Cockscombs, and other ornamental plants during the summer, and we would therefore not advise Melons unless in some special case, as where there was nowhere else to plant them and they were much wanted.

GLASS FOR CONSERVATORY ROOF (Sussex).-The roof being a span, with the ends running S.E. and N.E., will have one side facing the south-west; for this we would use ground glass, so as to render shading unnecessary, but you must employ good glass, otherwise after frost there will be broken squares. We use polished plate ground on the inner side, the smooth face being placed outside. It is one-fourth inch thick. Frosted glass and groundrough plate are very liable to breakage, and, though cheaper to begin with, are dearer in the end than polished ground plate. There is no objection to Ferns occupying the centre of the greenhouse and flowering plants the side shelves. We suppose you have considered whether you will have enough flowers, especially Camellias, of which large plants cannot be accommodated on the side shelves.

GREENHOUSE HEATING (G. S. R.).-It could not be heated by gas, 2-inch pipes being employed, as that would give a large quantity of water to be heated, but it can be warmed satisfactorily and economically by 1-inch pipes. You will need six rows of pipes along the front, and the boiler ought to be within the house. If you employ coal or coke as fuel to heat the boiler, the latter ought at least to be fed from the outside. You will need two S-inch pipes, or three 2-inch pipes, to give the required temperature in frosty week. The pipes should be taken along one or both ends and the front. weather. Your house ought to be heated by gas at a cost of about 4s. per

CALCEOLARIA CULTURE (Biceps).-Early next month prepare a bed by taking out the soil 6 inches deep and placing it on both sides of the excavation as in forming a trench for Celery; point into the bottom with a fork a 3-inch

thickness of well-decayed leaf mould, mixing it well with the soil, and in this plant the Calceolarias, after carefully taking up, in rows 9 inches by 6 inches apart. Water after planting, shading from bright sun by mats placed on sticks arched over the bed, which will also be useful for supporting mats on frosty nights. When the plants have become established after planting stop them so as to induce a bushy growth, and keep well supplied with water. From the bed they are to be moved with good balls to where they are wanted to flower.

BEDDING LOBELIAS (F. J.).-Old plants are not so good as those which are young, as the former will flower earlier than the latter and do not produce a succession of bloom until autumn. Seedling plants are freer in growth and keep up a better succession of flowers than those from cuttings, but the seed must be true, which is not always the case.

GREENHOUSE PLANS (W. G. C.). We prefer No. 1 with the ends facing north and south, and the sides east and west, the ridge-and-furrow roof running lengthwise of the house. No. 2 is not good, but would answer.

VINERY HEATING (Ben).-As your house is in the shade more fire heat will be needed than if it were exposed to the sun. We should commence fires about the end of the present month or beginning of April. Keep the temperature at 55° at night for the first fortnight, commencing with 50° and increasing gradually to 55°, and during the next fortnight rise to 60°. Keep at that until the Vines are in flower, then give a rise of 5° at night, and after flowering let the night temperature be 60°. On all the temperatures named a rise of 5° may be given on dull days without sun, 10° to 15° with cloud but a little sun, and 15° to 20° or more with bright sun and abundance of air. It is not desirable to apply fire heat to Vines early in the season when the roots are in an outside border.

ORNAMENTAL BEET-BLUE LOBELIAS (J. F. C.).—Beta vulgaris kermesina is not superior as an ornamental-foliaged plant to Dell's Crimson Beet, which, with many aliases, is the finest for garden decoration. The best Lobelias of the speciosa class are Brilliant, Blue Boy, Compacta or Crystal Palace Blue, which are of dwarf dense habit; those of rather stronger growth are Lobelia Erinus speciosa grandiflora, and Trentham Blue. Of the pumila class the best are pumila grandiflora, Sunset, red lilac; and Purple Prince, purple tinged with brown. Where not otherwise stated the colour is blue. Others are Cobalt Blue, Heather Bell, pink, White Perfection, Pearl, Snow, and Snowdrift. Finely sifted ashes, unless washed, are not suitable for lightening soil for potting. Sand is far preferable, though washed ashes answer well.

CAMELLIAS DIRTY (E. Robinson).-The leaves are covered with a black fungus from the plants being infested with scale, and not in consequence of the soot and dust of the chimney. Wash the leaves with a solution of soft soap, 4 ounces to the gallon, as hot as the hand can bear it, but not more than 140°. The stems, as well as both sides of the leaves, should be washed clean with a sponge, taking care not to allow the soapy water to run down to the roots.

COCOA NUTS SPROUTED (F. Bowles).-As the trees which produce them attain a height of 50 feet and require a stove heat, we advise you not to attempt their cultivation.

CONSTRUCTING A VINERY (Market Gardener).-We consider the construction of your vinery will answer, and we have no suggestions to offer, only we should have Foster's White Seedling in place of Royal Muscadine, and Black Hamburgh as you propose. Buckland Sweetwater is also a fine, large, white Grape for an unheated house. The Vines we should have planted inside, the front wall of the vinery being arched so as to allow of the roots passing outwards. The border under the circumstances stated will not require draining, but we should add to every square yard of border half a peck of half-inch bones, and mix them with the soil at least 18 inches deep. We do not think you will succeed with Peaches against the back or end, as in a few years the roof will be so covered by the Vines as to render the fruiting of the Peach trees very uncertain.

PRODUCE OF VINES (R. Forrest).-It is difficult to form a conclusive opinion, as so much is dependant on the state of the Vines and the treatment. One pound weight of Grapes for every foot of rafter occupied by the Vines is a very good and safe calculation, and your twenty Vines ought to give you 20 lbs. weight of Grapes each, or 400 lbs. of Grapes in all. The Vines not having been pruned we should still do so, keeping the house cool, and applying Thomson's styptic to all the cuts. The patent knotting used by painters will answer nearly as well; each will prevent the Vines bleeding.

TURFING A VINE BORDER (Twenty-two-years Subscriber).—You are quite right in not having the border turfed, but you may grass the herbaceous border, and have an evergreen hedge at the back so as to shut off the Vine border. The hedge should not be so high as to shade the Vine border much, certainly not more than 4 feet. Box 2 feet high would answer very well, and would not hold many leaves, but any caught by it would have to be cleared away as they accumulated. A rustic fence would not answer so well as an evergreen hedge; but could you not have a few flowering plants in pots plunged in the border in summer so as to make it gay, and so take away its

bareness?

VINERY MANAGEMENT (J. D.).-Too much moisture in the atmosphere, combined with a low temperature, is the cause of the young leaves becoming spotted and damping-off. As you have raised the night temperature of the house to 60°, probably the evil you complain of no longer exists. If the Vines are not doing well yet, raise the night temperature to 65°, with a proportionate rise by day. See that the roots are well supplied with water. PLANTING FIG TREE OUT OF Doors (4. B. G.).-Do so at once. Brown Turkey will answer your purpose.

PATENT FELT (Julius).—We cannot recommend dealers. VIOLET CRESS (4. C.).—It is Ionopsidium acaule, and has been called by different botanists Cochlearia acaulis and C. pusilla. It is a very pretty annual, introduced from Portugal in 1845. There is a portrait of it in the "Botanical Register" of 1846. The "Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society" thus spoke of it:-"It is found wild, according to Brotero, on the basaltic hills near Lisbon, and occasionally on the limestone formation of Estremadura. Desfontaines also met with it in Barbary. A beautiful rock plant for shady situations; its flowers are of a clear lilac, and the foliage is of a delicate green colour. It propagates itself by seeds, and by runners which throw out roots abundantly into the damp soil. It is a hardy little annual, growing in any rich garden soil, and blooming from April to October. It requires rather a moist (shady) situation. Its small flowers (they come out white and turn to a pale lilac) appear in profusion from April to October. It makes a neat edging to borders in shaded places, and is a capital rock work plant."

ROSE LEAVES MILDEWED (S. A. E.).-The leaf has been affected with mildew, most probably owing to defective root action. The young shoots in unheated houses are apt to push without the roots being active enough to supply sap. More air, especially on sunny days, and a little liquid manure to the roots, will most probably do good.

DAPHNE ODORA STRAGGLING (F. A. L.).—We should cut-in the plant to bring it into form, keeping rather dry for a fortnight or three weeks previously, and when it had broken and made shoots an inch or so long we would repot, removing most of the old soil, using a size of pot that would hold the roots without cramping, and placing a little fresh soil all round. Good drainage, and a compost of equal parts peat and loam (both sandy and fibrous), with a sixth of silver sand will grow it well. Keep rather moist and shaded, giving an increase of temperature for a short time, then admit air and light, watering so as to keep the soil moist, but avoid overwatering. The parts removed may be put in as cuttings, which strike freely in gentle heat.

HEATING HOUSES (R. O. 0.).-The mode of heating, as shown by your plan would be improved if you were to take the pipes along the garden house until the early vinery was reached, and then carry the pipes through the wall into it, across its end, and along the front. Two rows of pipes with their returns will be sufficient. For the late vinery we should take the pipes along the garden house until the house was reached, then into the house, and along the end and front. A flow-and-return pipe will be sufficient, and these we should have on the level. Taken through the early vinery, that house would be unnecessarily and injuriously heated when the Vines were at rest. You ought to have two more pipes for top heat in the forcing house-i.e., two flows with their returns, and the same number of pipes for bottom heat-two under each bed-viz., & flow and return for each. From the fernery frost can be excluded by one pipe all round, likewise from the pits, if not over 6 feet wide, by one pipe at the back as shown in your plan, but you will need to have a valve on the pipe at the side of the fernery next the pits so as to cause the water to circulate directly through the pit pipes, which will cut off the pipe along one side of the fernery; or the valve might be partially shut so that whilst the pit pipe would be heated fully there would be also heat in the pipe alongside of the fernery. We should have all the pipes 3-inch, and have them provided with valves, so that you could work the whole separately or together. The pipes should be taken under the paths in a flue formed of bricks and covered with flags. We do not advise Peach trees for the back walls of the early and late vinery. They would do for a year or two, and then, owing to the shade of the Vines, they would not bear.

INSECTS ON GERANIUMS (Miss Allen).—You give no description nor specimen of the insect, therefore we can only advise you to fumigate the house with tobacco. Shut-up the house on a calm evening, and fill it with tobacco smoke so that the plants cannot be seen from the outside. If, as we think, the insects are aphides, the tobacco smoke will destroy them. We do not wonder at the plants being injured by the flowers of sulphur if it was burned, but dusted on the leaves it will not destroy them. It is of no use against insects in that state, but an excellent application for mildew.

NAMES OF FRUITS (H. L.).-Wyken Pippin. (Streber).-Your Apple is very much like Pomme Royale, but we are not sure about it.

NAMES OF PLANTS (F. E. T.).-Named last week, page 208. (W. J. H.).— 1, Sparmannia africana. We cannot name Rhododendrons from single flowers. 4 is in the way of R. retusum. (G. S. B.).—Sparmannia africana, native of the Cape. (C. W.).-Eriostemon myoporoides, D.C. (J. Englefield).-1, Ruscus (Danaë) racemosus; 2, Material insufficient. (W. G.).-Omphalodes verna. (T. N.).-1, Dendrobium aggregatum, Roxb. (Bot. Mag., 8649); 3, Apparently a very handsome form of D. nobile, or a nearly allied species; 2 We cannot name without blossom. (T. M. A.).—1, Billbergia Moreliana; 2, Strelitzia Reginæ; 3, Selaginella flabellata; 4, S. caulescens; 5, S. cuspidata; 6, Peperomia Saundersii. (A. Rawson).-Lonicera Standishii, B. M., t. 5709. (G. Diss).-1. Adiantum cuneatum; 2, Pteris cretica; 8, Nephrodium molle; 4, Asplenium marinum.

POULTRY, BEE, AND PIGEON CHRONICLE.

OBJECTING TO JUDGES.

I HAVE read your articles. Are they provoked by a rule of the National Ornithological Association to combine to resist or protest against awards? What judge would subject himself to such treatment? Let the judges be chosen, publish their names, let their decision be final, mistakes or no mistakes, and let those who do not like the names stay at home.

To be a poultry judge requires practice. This seems to be entirely overlooked. Nothing but practice can give confidence to all the theoretical knowledge in the world, and a non-practised hand will be longer at it than an old hand. If there is a fear of the old hands giving up soon, why not associate younger hands with them without a fee? Many, I dare say, would pay their own costs to serve the cause in this unenviable office.

To render my meaning as to practice more clear, I know of no better illustration than the following: When the volunteer and militia movement began in Canada a military school was established, and drill-books issued and studied with a will. At examinations vivâ voce and in writing, questions were answered beyond correctly if possible. The same people had a company of men put before them and failed in all their attempts to pass for some time. They were flurried-in fact, until they had practice, were entirely put out. A young poultry judge is in the same hat. He knows the written standards by heart-has kept, perhaps, nearly all breeds, some a shorter time, some a longerbut thinks, "I have only so much time; if I make a mistake (which the veterans often do), what a row I shall get into from our Journal, &c.!" He is in a complete fry until by practice his nerve becomes equal to it; then he can apply his knowledge in half the time, and confidently make his award.

But if judges are to be judged by the new Society they will

BLACK BANTAMS.

I AM sure all amateurs will be obliged to Mr. W. B. Arundel for his effort to enlighten them on the above breed. It is quite true that most of the books on poultry do not give sufficient practical information. I know of none, however, which does not contain a fair description of the points of the various breeds, and Mr. Arundel's paragraph does nothing more; moreover, it contains ideas which, if followed by amateurs or anyone else, will lead to certain disappointment, and be much more likely to send them astray than assist them to breed and show Black Bantams to perfection. After telling us that "the birds of the variety should be black, and that the comb should be double, and covered with small points on the top," &c., Mr. Arundel proceeds to say that "the tail of the cock should be carried upright, and the head carried well back towards the tail;" and again, a little further on, "The breast is round and prominent, and is carried forward by the cock. The neck of the cock is very taper, and is gracefully curved well back, so as to bring the back of the head into close proximity with his tail." This means to say that a Black Bantam should be in shape and style similar to a Sebright or a Fantail Pigeon, and is entirely an erroneous idea. The very best authorities say that a Black Bantam should be a miniature Black Hamburgh-smart, compact, and the tail carried away, rather drooping than otherwise; and this has been substantiated, more especially in recent shows, by Hewitt, Teebay, Baily, Dixon, Hodson, and other well-known judges. I fear any amateur, taking Mr. Arundel's standard for a guide, would find himself in the position mentioned by that gentleman at the end of the first paragraph in the article I have been quoting from, appearing in last week's Journal.

E. CAMBRIDGE.

NORTHAMPTON POULTRY SHOW.

THE spacious Corn Exchange at Northampton contained last week one of the best collections of poultry ever brought together in the district. The Show was exceedingly well arranged, and with the exception that Aylesbury and Rouen Ducks should always have separate classes, and might be shown in pairs, there was very little to complain of in the prize schedule. The exhibits of every kind considerably exceeded 1100 pens, which leads to a remark worthy of attention. Of poultry alone about sixty pens were empty, and it was repeatedly asserted by several exhibitors-and we have not any reason to doubt the correctness of the statement-in several instances only a portion of the poultry was delivered in time for adjudication, out of a number of pens forwarded by the several owners into the hands of the railway companies at one and the same time; in fact, some half-dozen pens were delivered at the Exchange so late as 6.25 P.M. on the day of the judging, and it is quite possible others may have arrived (unknown to ourselves), at even a later hour, for consignments were coming-in at intervals during the whole of Tuesday, the day for judging. This is certainly not as it should be, and railway officials are to be much blamed for so unjustifiable a detention, as from the fact that the judging did not commence until considerably past midday on the Tuesday, poultry if consigned by an early train from any part of the kingdom on the Monday, should have reached its destination long before the time fixed for the adjudications.

It has of late been a somewhat general remark that Dorkings prove very small classes, and it again held good at Northampton, for with the exception of the prize birds, these classes were decidedly indifferent. The second-prize hen was an extraordinarily good Silver-Grey, but not a single bird (cock or hen), of White Dorkings was entered. As a kind of compensation, the Cochin classes proved one of the grandest collections seen for many years past. In both cocks and hens of the Buffs these classes were an exhibition of themselves-so good, indeed, that the highly-commended pens would have proved prizewinners at shows generally. The cup Buff hen is one that would, once seen, scarcely be forgotten, being exhibited in a most trying competition, but possessing character and colour as nearly faultless as it is possible for the most fastidious amateur to conceive. The Partridge Cochins were also most praiseworthy, but it was a matter of regret to find a decidedly roupy hen entered in this class. It is unjust to other exhibitors to send them when thus affected. White Cochins were few but very creditable. Although so late in the season, the collection of Dark Brahmas was unusually good, the clear plumage of the cocks and the lovely pencilling throughout of the hens being subjects of general congratulation. The Light Brahmas, though not equal to the Dark, were praiseworthy; but it was an evident cruelty to overshow the inmates of one or two pens in the way they had been. It may bring increasing notoriety to the owner, but it should not be forgotten it is a lingering death to the bird. The French classes were well filled throughout, and it was

Spanish fowls, of which in both their own classes and the Selling classes there was a superabundance, were of extraordinary excellence, and it may be years before so many firstclass specimens at such astonishingly low prices again meet the wishes of intending purchasers. The quality of some of favourable returns at most poultry shows. Black Red Game even those Spanish fowls in the Selling classes would secure fowls proved not nearly equal in quality to Brown Reds, which Game was secured by a most excellent Brown Red cock, shown were, on the contrary, of very superior quality. The cup for Hamburghs were generally good, the cup being given to an exin a condition so good as to attract the notice of all who saw it. traordinarily well-mooned Golden-spangled cock of exceedingly pure ground colour.

cock class, it was a remarkable feature that scarcely any of the Although three dozen entries competed in the Game Bantam best specimens, which were plentiful, was in anything approaching show condition, the listless manner in which they. exhibition. Some of the best of Black Bantams were shown, stood proving how sadly they had been overtaxed by continuous also a few Silver-laced worthy of especial mention. A jet black Japanese Bantam cock, well shown and recently imported, deserves especial mention, being a most unique specimen. Perhaps one of the most notable features of the Show was the entry of Silver and Golden-spangled Polands, than which a richer collection has rarely been offered to public view.

The immense entries in the Selling classes of varieties of the highest character, the whole of which appeared to be in robust the sales to be very numerous, as well as satisfactory to the health, and, consequently, excellent breeding condition, caused purchasers. Every attention was paid by the indefatigable Secretary and Committee to the wants of the poultry under inquiries of those desirous of possessing wished-for pens was their charge, and their courteous attention to the incessant unwearying. The weather also proving favourable, the Show was a most successful one.

RABBITS.

cellent pens, sweet hay, oats, and carrots being supplied in proThe Rabbits were well arranged and managed in Turner's exfusion; and though the entries were not nearly so numerous as those of last year, yet 115 good specimens are not a bad display. Taken in all, this was one of the best collections seen of late. Mr. Rayson was advertised as Judge, but in his absence Mr. Hutton officiated. There were four cups offered for competition, as also three prizes of 20s., 10s., and 5s. in each class. Two classes with one cup were set apart for Lops, but in point of numbers they were comparatively a failure, there being only thirteen entries in all, but the quality was quite as high as is possible. In bucks a grand Sooty Fawn was first, the length being 22 by 43 in width; the second being a Fawn 21 by 41; and third a Blue, 21 by 4; the only other Rabbit in the class receiving a very high commendation. Does were a grand Tortoiseshell, 22 by 4, large, of nice quality of ear and head, with a large well-formed dewlap; the second being also a Tortoiseshell, much better in colour, something shorter in ear, but comparatively defective in dewlap; and the third Black-and-white, but a little too gay in marking. The point cup was won by Mr. Banks. Angoras were very good; the first a mass of fleecy wool and well shown; the second and third being good in that respect, but not so large. No. 940, an immense doe, was not up to the mark in fur. Himalayans were a very large entry and some of them well marked, while many were too mousey on the feet to succeed in the show-pen, though the winners may be considered good average specimens. Dutch were not so numerous, but mostly mentioned. The first prize went to an almost perfect Blue-and-white doe, very small and smart, winning the cup against the Himalayans. Second came a Tortoiseshell buck, quite as perfect in marking, but large; and third a neat small Silver-Greys were an extraordinary class, whether as regards entries or quality; and no grander sight have we ever seen of this variety of Rabbit, scarcely one bad one being shown, and two extra prizes were allowed by the Society. The winning Silver-Grey Rabbits were most beautifully silvered throughout, while many most perfect in body but a little darker on the head were highly commended. The fourth cup was awarded here.

Fawn-and-white.

Many cheap Rabbits were shown in the Selling class, and the prizes were awarded to a Tortoiseshell first, a Lop-eared buck; second, an Angora; third, also a Lop. Three good Rabbits won in the Local class, the first-prize winner being a good Sooty Fawn Lop, 214 by 48, but a little wanting in condition; second an Angora, and third a Silver-Grey.

(From a Correspondent.)

Again Northampton has succeeded in forming a splendid exhibition of Rabbits; not so large as the last certainly, but, notwithstanding, nearly equal to it for quality.

Lop-ears, Self-colours (only five entries).-The chief and indeed sole feature of this class was the first-prize winner—a