"This plant we grow in America by the thousand. I have a house 100 feet long and 20 feet wide devoted entirely to it; and although it grows yards in a few weeks, I have a difficulty to keep up a stock equal to the demand. It is used principally for making wreaths, house decoration, mixing with cut flowers, ornamenting the hair, trimming ladies' dresses for balls and parties, and is never sold for less than a dollar per yard. It is of very easy culture in a cool greenhouse or conservatory; it will grow yards in a few weeks from the time of sowing. It is planted in boxes or pots. Small twine is placed for it to cling to. It is very much admired here, and I hope before this is in print that I shall have thousands of it for decorating purposes." It is many years since this plant was introduced into England, but like many more old favourites it is cast away to make room for the newer and less useful.H. COMLEY, Hendre Gardens, Monmouth.

[We quite agree with our correspondent. It is many years since we saw its white flowers adorning a conservatory in winter. It is a native of the Cape of Good Hope, and was cultivated in this country as long ago as 1702.-EDS.]

THE MARMORA RAIDISSEUR. FRUIT-TREE walls are now so frequently wired for convenience of training, as well as to prevent the brickwork being pitted with nail holes, that a cheap and efficient raidisseur or wire-strainer is sure to meet with extensive adoption. There are many such contrivances in use at the present time, but one of the simplest and most effective is that invented by the Abbé Marmora some years ago, and figured and described in the "Revue

The Marmora Raidisseur.

Horticole" and other French gardening periodicals. As will be perceived on reference to the engraving, it is on the same principle as the capstan. One end of the wire is passed through a hole in the middle of the capstan, which is in fact a small iron cylinder, and made fast to a hook in the wall. The wire is then unrolled and its other end fastened in the same way; the capstan is then moved to the centre of the length, and two pieces of iron wire, as thick as a quill and 8 inches long, used as levers, serve to turn the capstan and roll on it the wire from each side. When the wire is tightened-up one of the levers is left in its hole, the far end resting against the wall, or the U-handle against the strained wire, as a stop to prevent unwinding. For espaliers an S-shaped capstan is used, and the wire having been first passed through posts at the requisite distance apart, is carried through the hole in the capstan, and tightened-up by turning the two ends. When this is satisfactorily completed the ends of the capstan are placed vertically against the post to prevent the wire unrolling. A still more simple form of this wire-strainer consists in doing away with the bent handle, represented in the figure, and retaining the capstan alone, which in this case is made to turn in the grip of two hooks driven into the wall a short distance apart, or of one double-clawed hook.

GARDENERS AT THE ROYAL PALACES.

In answer to a correspondent, "C. TORRENS," we have very little doubt that in fact there were gardeners, because there

were gardens, attached to the royal residences soon after the establishment of the Norman dynasty.

In the "Liber Niger Domus" of Edward IV. (1461-1483) are detailed the duties of the various officers of the royal household, and among them that the "Serjeant of the Confectionary" had the care of "dates, figges, raisonnes, wardens, pearys, apples, quinces, cherryes, and all other fruytes after the seasonne." He was to take care that there was a sufficient supply "had of the King's gardynes, as cherryes, peares, apples, nuttes greate and smalle, for somer season, and for lenten wardens, quinces, and other." So there were royal gardeners then. In the "Privy Purse Expenses" of Elizabeth of York, afterwards Henry VII.'s queen, in the year 1502, mention is made of "the keper of the litle gardyn at Windesour." Baynard's Castle, London, was also then a royal residence, and one entry is "to Waltier Reynold, keper of the garden at Baynardes Castle, for his wages for a hole yere ended at Mighelmas last passed, sixty shillings and ten pence." We may reasonably conclude that "gardening and gardeners benefited the community two centuries earlier, for from a MS. of cookery, written early in the fourteenth century, possessed by the Royal Society, we learn that there were served to table various preparations of (we retain the spelling) lekes, onyons, cabaches, rapes, gourdys, green pesen, parsell, sage, saveray, ysope, chebolles, mynt, peletur, costmaryn, fenell. At that time our grocers' currants were called "raisynges of corance." Descending lower in the order of time we find mention of a gardener named Woolf, and Gough the antiquary says that he was a French priest. Henry VIII. (1509-1547) sent him to travel on the continent for the purpose of acquiring a better knowledge of gardening, and it is recorded that he brought back various varieties of fruits and vegetables. He was probably gardener at Windsor, for we find in the "Privy Purse Expenses of Princess Mary," in 1536, that Jaspar was keeper of the garden at Newhall," or Beaulieu, as it was also called, another royal residence in Essex, and a "Frenche gardener at Westmynster," probably St. James's, and this might be Woolf before mentioned. She also mentions "the keeper of the King's garden at Grenewiche;" he brought her "herbes and flowres," and on which occasion she gave him 28. Mention is also made of "the Qwene's gardener at Hampton Court," and another entry shows that his name was Chapman, and that he carried Pears to Princess Mary; but six years later the gardener's name was Edmund, and he received 5s. for the Strawberries he brought.

Queen Elizabeth (1558-1603), among "artificers," in her pay had a "maker of hearb-bowres and planters of trees," his fee being £25. Her "gardiner" at St. James's fee was £9 2s. 6d. ; at Hampton Court, £8 1s. 8d.; at Chelsea, £6 1s. 8d.; at Eltham, £11 118. 4d.; at Greenwich, £7 4s. 2d.; at Richmond, £4 11s. 3d.; at Windsor "the keeper of the garden under the Castle," £4; and at Woodstock, £3 0s. 10d. Besides these she had in pay many keepers of parks and other appur tenances of her very many residences, among which it now reads comical that there was in "Maribone, keeper of the howse, Covent Garden and the woodes," his fee was £10.

We have before us an original order for the payment of Queen Elizabeth's gardener at Hampton Court. It was at the close of her reign, and the wages were higher than just named.

"MY VERY GOOD LORD,-This bearer, John Dinye, her Majesty's gardiner at Hampton Court, to whom her Majesty hath granted a Privy Seal of two shillings by the day for himself and tenpence for his man, hath continued in daily employment there from the feast of the Birth of our Lord God last past, until the feast day of the Annunciation of our blessed Virgin Mary then next following, which I am from time to time to signify to your Lordship. And therefore I pray your Lordship that upon this my certificate he may receive his pay due unto him accordingly. At the Court at Whitehall this 27th of March, 1601. mand, "Your Lordship's very assured kinsman and friend to com"NOTTINGHAM."

why Alphonsus Fowle, keeper of St. James's garden, had £160 In King James I.'s reign (1603-1625) it puzzles us to discern yearly, whilst Edward Lonnel, keeper of the garden and or chard at Richmond, had only 49s. 4d.

OGSTON HALL,

THE RESIDENCE OF MRS. TURBUTT.

FOR natural scenery there are few English counties which can vie with Derbyshire. It does not present the soft rural landscapes of many of the more southern parts of the country, the thatched cottages nestling in the valley, or clustered round

the white-towered church, and forming a little village where all bespeaks a peace and comfort a closer inspection but too often proves to be imaginary; no, on the contrary, Derbyshire scenery is of a bolder, wilder character, and as we travel northwards into the Peak district it becomes even majestic. From hill and dale and rapid river we pass to precipitous frowning rocks, foaming torrents tearing madly over their broken stony beds, dense woods, and wide moors, which when the Heather is in blossom are grand examples of Nature's colour-pictures. Although the natural features in the Alfreton district are not nearly so striking as those between Matlock, Buxton, and Chesterfield-where, too, there are numerous gentlemen's seats, foremost among them being Chatsworth and Hardwick Hall, belonging to the Duke of Devonshirestill the country offers many beautiful views from the ridges which rise up towards the hills. Capping one of these emi

nences, and at a considerable elevation, is Ogston Hall, a handsome stone-built mansion, which as it at present stands may be considered an entirely modern mansion, having been in a great measure rebuilt by the late Mr. Turbutt, who was the principal landowner in the neighbourhood. At one time we believe it belonged to Sir Joseph Banks, but more of its history we are unable to say.

Adjoining the mansion is the handsome architectural stone conservatory seen in our engraving," and which forms, indeed, the most important feature in the garden at this season. It is 46 feet long, 22 feet wide, 24 feet high, and is furnished with excellent taste and effect. Occupying a vase in the centre is a handsome plant of Dicksonia antarctica, and on the pedestal are grouped Chinese Primulas literally masses of bloom. Other groups of the same flower) are placed here and there, and these with Camellias, Epacrises, and Cinerarias give an

agreeable glow of colour to a house in which the green is not, as is often the case at this time of year, the predominant hue. Among other plants, besides Orange trees, Cordylines, Lomaria gibba, and Chamaerops humilis, one of a good pair, of which the fellow was in another house, there were excellent specimens of Aphelexis humilis, Polygala Dalmaisiana, a Pleroma, &c., which figure at the summer exhibitions of the district. Rhododendron Edgworthii, one of the most fragrant as well as the most beautiful of the Indian Rhododendrons, here blooms freely; the plant, though not large, having generally from twenty to thirty blooms, and perfuming the whole house. Mr. Reynolds finds that it is necessary to keep it rather confined as regards pot-room, otherwise its tendency is to produce wood instead of flowers. It may be added that the plant is now showing indications of again flowering freely. Opening out from the conservatory is a small fernery, containing several good specimens of greenhouse Ferns of moderate size.

South of the terrace, in front of the conservatory and of the house as well, is a neatly-laid-out flower garden on grass, with beds converging towards a fountain in the centre, separated from each other by pathways of Derbyshire spar; and this again overlooks the croquet lawn, from which the ground slopes down to the lake, and a picturesque wooded valley beyond. Belts of shrubs, chiefly Rhododendrons, form the set

ting of these terrace gardens, and in front of the shrubs in summer, flowers and coloured-leaved plants are ribboned and vandyked. Forming the background and shelter to the whole, as seen in the engraving, are lofty Elm, Beech, and Oak trees.

The

The kitchen garden is of no great extent, being less than an acre within the walls, and including an orchard there is perhaps as much outside; but it is remarkably well ordered. paths are all asphalted, and in a pouring rain were clean and well, not dry as one would be apt to say-but for walking practically so, and defined by a neat, dwarf, narrow, Box edging. The soil is light, apparently a decomposed sandstone, resting on the rock, and suits vegetable crops well, especially early ones, and fruit trees tolerably well, but the ground is very shallow in places. The wall trees are well managed; and some espalier Pears in front of the west-aspect wall border trained on high iron fencing are excellent examples of that mode of training, and very satisfactory in regard to production as well.

The extent of glass is but small. There is a small Peach house, forming a lobby to the vineries, of which there are two lean-to's 24 feet by 16, one used as an early, the other as a late house. In the early division, besides the Vines were Azaleas and Rhododendrons to come into flower at Easter, likewise

*From a photograph by Mr. Clark, of Matlock.

a number of pots of Lilium speciosum punctatum and album, with which Mr. Reynolds, the gardener, is very successful; repotting the bulbs in November in peat, loam, and silver sand, placing three in a 9 or 11-inch pot, from which he obtains from twenty to thirty flowers, which render the conservatory extremely gay at the end of summer. In the late vinery there were some excellent Muscats hanging, though the best bunches had been cut, and Alicante was in good preservation. Some bedding Calceolarias had been removed thither, though Mr. Reynolds did not approve of the practice, as they are far more healthy and free from insects in frames; but there the mice attacked them and cleared off row after row, so that they had to be removed to the only available place of safety. In a spanroofed stove were good plants of Maranta zebrina, Stephanotis floribunda, Cypripedium insigne, Dracena terminalis, and some others; but the Poinsettias, with which it had recently been very gay, were nearly over; not so that useful plant Euphorbia jacquiniæ flora, which was still in beauty. A lean-to orchard house, 33 feet by 12, is found very useful for a variety of purposes, as well as yielding an abundance of fruit. The practice is to plunge the pot trees out of doors when the wood is nearly ripe, and to plunge them in-doors when about to come into flower. For top-dressing, horse droppings and loam are applied when the trees are turned out, and when this dressing disappears horse droppings alone. Some small Pear trees planted out in the back border had borne well, especially Marie We have only to add that the management of the place was highly creditable, especially as Mr. Reynolds has, besides the garden, the home farm of some eighty acres to look after.

Louise.

NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. VERY much of the pleasure of a garden will depend on the manner in which its walks are formed. A walk that becomes cloggy or slimy in wet weather or after frosts, or allows the water to lodge upon it during and after rains, and has a surface of coarse and harsh or loose materials, will do much towards deterring persons from using their gardens constantly, or at least will rob them of a good deal of enjoyment. Dryness can be obtained in a walk by shaping the ground properly in forming it, by rounding it slightly in the middle, by giving it a decided fall in some direction, and placing gratings and places for water at the lowest points, and by using suitable materials both for the foundation and the surface. In the ground formation of a walk a firm bottom should be obtained, and it should be pared as smooth as possible, keeping it from 3 to 6 inches higher in the centre, according to its width. At both sides the ground should be sloped gradually down for about a foot or 18 inches in width to the extreme margins, where it may be 6 or 9 inches deeper than at any other part. These extra cuts at the sides are to be filled with rougher materials, and to follow the general inclination of the walk for the purpose of drainage. By laying the groundwork of a walk thus high in the centre, and smoothly sloping to a kind of drain at each side, the utmost possible dryness will be gained.

The first operation on land will be to thoroughly drain it. No description of ornamental or useful plants will thrive well upon undrained ground that is not naturally dry and open, nor can such land ever yield any permanent enjoyment and comfort. A cold damp soil is decidedly uncongenial to both animal and vegetable life. Drainage is not merely valuable in the removal of stagnant water, which is so injurious to plants and so productive of discomfort; it also has the direct effect of making the soil warmer, and admitting air and gases freely. The temperature of ground that is saturated with water can never be greatly increased by whatever power of sun it may be acted upon, nor can air circulate properly through a liquid medium. Warmth and air to the roots being therefore essential to the healthy growth and fertility of plants, drainage becomes of the highest consequence in soils that are naturally wet. In the greenhouse and pits proceed with potting plants for bedding-out. Calceolarias and other softwooded plants that require it may also be potted, taking care to drain the pots well. The propagation of plants for bedding-out may now be proceeded with, according to the number required; but clumps should not be kept shabby for the want of a few plants, as they are readily propagated at this season. For cutting-pots I generally use 48's prepared in the following manner: Over the hole at the bottom I place an inverted 60-sized pot, and round it potsherds broken small, over these some moss, and then fill-up with a compost of peat, sand, and leaf mould in equal quantities, leaving about half an inch of white sand at the top, which runs into the holes as the cuttings are inserted. A stock of pots thus prepared should be kept in a frame or propagating house, as nothing is so injurious to cuttings taken from plants growing in heat as to put them into cold soil. Cuttings cannot

be too short if they have the necessary buds to form a plant, neither can they be inserted too shallow if they are made firm in the pots. Trenching vacant ground in preference to digging should at endeavour to get the whole of his garden trenched over once in all times be practised if time permit. The amateur should the course of three years at the farthest. He should go to the very bottom of the surface soil, taking care not to bring up the surface soil; this should be loosened with a fork deeply, and left in its place.

In the Vegetable department sow either on a slight hotbed or in pans the first crop of Seymour's White Celery, and some early Cauliflower, also a small crop of Impregnated Early White Broccoli. If the crops before recommended are not sown, no time must be lost in getting them in. Make your first sowing Lettuce, Radishes, both long and Turnip-rooted; Dutch Turnip, of Marrow Peas, also put in the last crop of early ones. Spinach, and Early Horn Carrot if wanted early, must be sown without delay. A good breadth of early Potatoes must be planted, and get the ground ready for Carrots in the early part of the month. The first thing to attend to in the out-door planting is trenching the land. This must be done to a considerable depth, say about 2 feet or 30 inches. If an orchard or a flower garden is to be laid-out for the first time, the general drainage must be looked to before success can be hoped for; but if a new bed must be well disturbed, and if the subsoil is inclined to retain is only contemplated, or the planting of a single tree, the soil wet an artificial drainage of bricks and stones is desirable. The digging must also extend much beyond the hole necessary for admitting the roots of the tree. The further this is done the better, as it is often the case that the surrounding soil has not been disturbed for some time, and roots placed in a hole encompassed by such a hard mass will not ramify, but will be similarly situated with those in pots. Trees and shrubs should always be planted high to counteract the evils arising from unsuitable subsoils, and also to allow the air to get at the roots. People seem to think that, provided the stem appears above ground, it matters nothing where the roots are, and we often see newly-planted trees covered-up to the stem with paving stones or gravel. The nearer the roots are to the atmosphere, and the more porous the soil above them, the better. In the matter round the tree as much as possible, and kept near the surface. of roots the smaller ones should be carefully preserved, arranged It thus appears that in transplanting care should be taken to preserve the bunches of roots and fibres, which are too often

torn from the stronger roots and left in the ground. It is to be lamented that even in some nurseries too little attention is

given to this matter, for we often see trees sent out with only a strong stick of old roots attached, all that was really valuable having been cut or rent away. The remedy for this unworkmanmatters themselves, and to refuse to purchase trees which are so like treatment is for amateurs to be more knowing on such is done, always remembering to keep a watch as to drought roughly treated. Firmly tread-down and water, and your work during the first months of spring and summer.

The seeds of all hardy and half-hardy annual plants should ground, some in pots, some in cold frames, and some in a slight now be sown in their respective stations, some in the open hotbed. Finish pruning all kinds of deciduous trees and shrubs which are not done. Attend principally to spring flowers, which are, perhaps, the most cheering which a garden can afford on account of the pleasing associations generally connected with them.

The amateur will find it interesting to note annually the time when his favourite plants come into flower, and when particular points such as these would not be without their use to protrees are leafing; and a series of well-authenticated facts on fessional gardeners.-W. KEANE.

DOINGS OF THE LAST AND PRESENT WEEKS.

ONE of the most important matters connected with a garden is the water supply. În districts where the rain-gauge registers over 24 inches in the year, watering out of doors cannot take up very much of the gardener's time. 1873 was not considered a dry season, and our rainfall was only 21.60 inches; in some seasons it has not reached 20 inches, and the soil being naturally dry it is highly necessary to water both flowers and vegetables out of doors, and if rain water can be obtained for this purpose so much the better. At all events it is of much importance to have it for watering pot plants, especially for Heaths, Azaleas, Camellias, and others of a hardwooded nature. When the hothouses were built at Loxford tanks were made at the same time to hold all the rain water that might fall on them, and so large has been the provision made that it is seldom necessary to use other than rain water for the plants and the Vine borders. There is a little extra expense when the houses are built, but this is more than compensated by the convenience afterwards. For instance, when a vinery is built it is necessary to go down at least 4 feet for the foundation of the walls, in order to allow of a foot

Vines we should not do so until they had made shoots an inch or two long, but keep them in the house with the soil moist, and instead of pruning rub off the eyes, so that when the Vines are planted shoots will be produced at the bottom of the rafters, or where you wish for side shoots, at which point we should leave three shoots-two for spurs, and one to train-up for the rod. In planting, the roots should be disentangled and spread out, whether you plant now or after the eyes have broken. In the latter case the Vines should be shaded for a few days and watered. The temperature for the first month may be 50° to 55° at night, and 65° by day; for the second month 60° to 65° at night, and 70° to 75° day, on which a rise of 10° to 15° may be allowed with sun and air.

PLANTING JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (4 Subscriber).—We fear your north border deprived the plants of sun and warmth needed for their full maturation. Give them an open and sheltered position, and a light soil if possible, well dug and moderately manured, and plant in rows 2 feet apart, the sets 9 inches or a foot from each other, and 6 inches deep. Plant at once. Last season was not a favourable one, but we attribute your non-success more to the position than the season.

BULBS FROM JAPAN (Tom Mason).-A compost of equal parts light fibrous loam, sandy peat, and leaf soil, with a sixth part of silver sand, will no doubt be suitable, as it is for most bulbous plants. We should pot them so that the bulbs would be covered with soil level with their crowns, and, if there are any Liliums, so that the pots may not be more than three parts filled with soil, to allow of the plants being top-dressed after they have made shoots a few inches long. They should be placed in pots, which should be drained efficiently, and in no case need exceed three times the diameter that of the bulbs. The soil ought to be kept just moist until growth fairly commences, and then water more freely, but be careful not to water over the bulbs, especially not until they are well started into growth. Afford them a light airy situation. They will succeed in a greenhouse.

VINES FOR SMALL VINERY (Aliquis).—Your house being heated so that you can command a good temperature, and having also a pipe in the border, you may plant, as you propose, Duke of Buccleuch, Muscat of Alexandria, and Lady Downe's; but the first will succeed in a temperature much lower than is required for Lady Downe's, which we should omit, and have Madresfield Court.

SOWING ALTERNANTHERA AMONA AND COLEUS (An Old Subscriber).— The Alternanthera is not difficult to raise from seed when this can be secured. The Coleus may be sown in pots filled to within three-quarters of an inch of the rim with sandy loam and leaf soil, two-thirds of the former to onethird of the latter, adding a sixth of silver sand, and making the surface fine and even; then scatter the seed regularly, cover about an eighth of an inch deep with fine soil, place in a hotbed, and keep moist, being careful not to overwater or the plants will damp-off. Keep near the glass, and when large enough to handle pot-off singly, return to the frame, keep shaded from sun until established, and shift into larger pots as the roots reach the sides, removing to the greenhouse in June, and hardening well off.

DWARF LOBELIA-WHITE-FOLIAGED PLANT FOR CARPET-BEDDING (Idem). -There is no dwarfer blue Lobelia than pumila grandiflora, which though not so deep a blue as some of the taller sorts, is nevertheless good. A dark blue sort is Brilliant of the speciosa class. Carter's Cobalt Blue is a clear pure blue. Antennaria tomentosa is one of the best white carpet plants and hardy, as is Cerastium tomentosum. The latter we consider best for your purpose.

SOWING NERTERA DEPRESSA (R. S.). The red capsules should be opened and the seeds scattered over a pot well drained and filled to within half an inch or so of the rim with fibrous loam, sandy peat, and a little leaf soil, making the surface very fine and even. Just cover the seeds with very fine soil. The soil should be watered before sowing the seeds. Place in a greenhouse, and cover with a hand-glass or a bell-glass, but it ought to be slightly elevated. Keep moist, and to lessen the necessity for watering, shade from bright sun. The soil ought to be moist. When the young plants appear admit air by raising the glass, and increase it with the growth, removing altogether in a short time, the main thing being to keep the plants from being dried-up, and, on the other hand, not soddened with wet. We should be glad if you would send us a few capsules. The Ouvirandra fenestralis would not have sufficient heat, we fear, in a warm sitting-room, but we should be disposed to give it a trial if you can command a plant without any great outlay. It would be a most interesting subject for a sitting-room, and if you succeed we should be glad to hear of it.

GLASS FOR ROOF CONSERVATORY (J. C. B.).-Rough plate glass is good and prevents scorching to a great extent. We use plate glass polished and ground on the side placed interiorly, and not so treated on the outward side. It answers admirably, but is more costly than rough plate. The ground glass is a quarter of an inch thick, and the rough plate ought not to be less. Ours is half an inch to five-eighths of an inch.

ROSES OF 1873 (J. W. B.).—It is impossible to give a reliable opinion on them yet. We do not know what you mean by "stopping Briars to prevent their dying-down below the shoot."

SOILS (Croy).-Either would do for petting if mixed in due proportions with other materials suitable to the plants to be potted.

SUTTON'S RED-SKINNED FLOURBALL POTATO (Sicklinghall).-It is a late round sort, good cropper, of good quality. You will find a coloured illustration of it in Messrs. Sutton's "Farmer's Year-Book."

PLANTS FOR EXHIBITION IN AUGUST (Young Exhibitor).-The Dracophyllum, Pimelea, and Kalosanthes you will need to retard, keeping them as cool as safety permits until June, when you may make an awning of tiffany to shield them from heavy rains and shade them from bright sun by day; but let them be exposed at night, unless heavy rains prevail, when covering should be placed over the plants. The Heaths will need to be kept back in the same way. As your house receives but little sun in summer it might be shaded and air freely admitted; thus you may keep them back nearly as well as out of doors. Keep the Polygala in heat until the growths are complete, and then remove to the cool house. It will flower when you wish it, but may need to be placed in a gentle heat again a month before the show. The Erythrina should be started early in April and be grown in a light house. Vallota should be placed in heat now, so as to get the growths forward, and by the middle of June it should have a light airy position in a greenhouse, giving no more water than will keep the plant from flagging. By introducing the plants into heat you may flower them when you wish, or they may not require forwarding. To have plants in flower at a stated time requires considerable judgment. No decided instructions can be given without seeing them, their present condition being everything.

PLANTING LILIUM LANCIFOLIUM AND AURATUM (Horton).-Pot them at once in a compost of equal parts of fibrous loam, leaf soil, and sandy peat, with one-sixth of silver sand. After draining the pots efficiently place an inch of the rougher parts of the compost over the drainage, and three parts fill the pots with the compost thoroughly mixed and made fine but not sifted, and then introduce the bulbs, placing some silver sand under and around them, then make level with the crown with soil, pressing the latter gently round them. Place in the greenhouse and keep moist, increasing the supply of water as the growth advances, and afford the plants a light airy position near the glass, allowing for growth. Top-dress the plants when they show roots, as they will just above the bulbs on the stem, adding a fourth of wellrotted manure to the compost above named, bringing it level with the rim of the pot, but allowing a little space for watering. Victoria Aster we think the finest.

IVY FOR WINDOW Box (W.).-The neatest Ivy, if you wish for a greenleaved sort is Donerailensis, and taurica is good. The neatest silver variegated is elegantissima. The small-leaved variety of Virginian Creeper (Ampelopsis Veitchii) would answer well; but both it and Ivy would take a time to cover the sides of the box, and would take in the soil, but not so much as to injuriously affect the growth of Geraniums, &c.

FLOWERS FOR A VINE BORDER AND UNDER THE SHADE OF TREES (M. A. B.).—It is bad practice to grow flowers in a Vine border. The gross habit induced by the rich soil may be avoided by surrounding the roots of the flowers with soil of a poorer description. Polemonium cæruleum variegatum, or the Golden Tricolor Geranium Lady Cullum, would answer in place of the Calceolaria. Santolina incana, by its neat, dwarf, and very compact growth, forms an admirable substitute for the Cerastium, to which it is really superior. Propagate the Viola by cuttings now, plant in the beds in May or June, and it will continue in full beauty till the autumn. Chenopodium atriplicis raised from seed sown in March will probably answer well in your climate as a substitute for Humes. The tall-growing scarlet Lobelias, too, make capital central groups; the dark crimson stems and foliage crowned by bold spikes of a deep, rich, liquid scarlet producing a very fine effect. The old stools are taken up late in autumn and kept in a cool pit or frame during winter, and abundant offsets may be taken any time during the present month. If you are anacquainted with this lovely and important species, do not confound it with the dwarf blue kinds, from which it is totally distinct. There is no flower of the same colour equal to the blue Lobelia. Have you tried L. pumila grandiflora? Its deep blue flowers are produced abundantly, and its habit of growth is very dwarf and compact. Vesuvius Geranium will not answer under the shade of trees; besides, the effect of a line of it next Beet would be extremely sombre and heavy, more particularly in such a position. Substitute for it the elegant grey-leaved Centaurea Clementei or C. ragusina. Do not hesitate to repeat the grey, for it will impart precisely the air of brightness that you require.

POTATO PLANTING (A. P.).—The crown cut off, as recommended at page 173, is not to be planted. The cluster of eyes of the crown produce a group of small weak stems if it be planted, that weakens the more robust stems produced from the large eyes.

VINE ROOTS DECAYED (S. A.).-We planted a vinery in three divisions, and the borders were made up of turfy loam, crushed bones, charcoal, and lime rubbish, with the addition of some rotted manure. The borders were well drained and aired. The first year the Vines grew to the top of the rafters, and the canes were all that could be desired; but what was our surcaying similar to yours. The third year there was no improvement. In the prise to find the second year that many of the roots were dead, and others defourth about 3 inches of the surface soil was removed, and some turfy loam put in its place; the roots eagerly ran into this, and the Vincs have done well ever since. The soil you have sent is very similar to that of which our border was made; what we surface-dressed with was of a much lighter nature. Roots similar to yours were forwarded to us from a gentleman about this time last year, and his border had been made on the most approved principles. Probably the soil is too retentive in your case, as it was in ours. You ought to remove 6 inches of the surface of the border, and replace it with some turfy loam of a more sandy character; the turf should be cut only 2 inches deep.

CAMELLIA-GERANIUM LEAVES (C. L. T.).—We cannot name the varieties of the Camellia or any other florists' flower. The leaves indicate that the roots of the Geranium do not supply sufficient sap. Try watering with very weak liquid manure.

PARTLY OBLITERATED NAMES (J. L.).-1, Enfant Ameugny; 2, Empereur del Maroc; 3, La Ville de St. Denis; 4, Monsieur Noman. There is a Rose called Gloire de Ducher, but none called "Ducher" alone.

NAMES OF FRUITS (L. Holmes).-2, Golden Winter Pearmain; 3, Claygate Pearmain; 4 and 5, Dumelow's Seedling; 6, Golden Russet; 7, Boston Russet. NAMES OF PLANTS (F. E. T.).-Habrothamnus fasciculatus. It is a native of Mexico, and was first bloomed in the Chiswick Garden of the Horticultural Society in 1845.

POULTRY, BEE, AND PIGEON CHRONICLE.

BLACK BANTAMS.

Not long ago exhibitors of Black Bantams had, generally, to class, there seldom being any other class in which they could be content with showing their fowls in the "Any other variety" compete, and the consequence was Black Bantams were neglected, and by only a few was care taken in breeding them. But now the committees of most of our poultry exhibitions have allotted a separate class for Black Bantams, with a result most gratifying to the exhibitors and encouraging to the committees. Fowls of this variety which only three or four years ago took prizes at our leading exhibitions would now, if in existence, very often find it difficult to obtain a place at many of the local shows.

In most of our poultry books only a limited space is devoted to the description of these fowls, which description is, in many cases, very scant and without attempting to enter into detail; and it is with a knowledge of this defect in our poultry lore