houses about 15 feet high at back, and 20 or 21 feet wide, each 19 yards long. It is worthy of note that the glazing-bars are of copper, which, though very enduring, must have entailed a heavy expense at first. There is a broad flagged pathway at back, and in each house there is a deep tank in which the rain water is collected. These spacious structures are used as vineries; and a corresponding pair of similar dimensions are used as Peach houses. In one the Peaches are trained in the ordinary way on a trellis near the glass, but in the other they are planted-out in the border orchard-house fashion, and trained with umbrella heads; on the back wall in the one case are Figs, in the other Peaches and Nectarines. There are, in addition, two fine span-roofed houses running north and south, 24 feet wide and about 70 feet long. One of these is a vinery, planted with Black and white Muscat of Alexandria, White Nice, Lady Downe's, Black Damascus, and some other varieties, but the greater part of the crop had been cut; the other is a Peach house planted with umbrella-trained trees, with, in addition, some Plums and Cherries.

I will pass over the remainder of the glass, which comprises a number of heated pits in which bedding plants, and Dracaenas and other fine-foliaged plants are grown for house decoration; for Arundel is a fruit-growing, not a plant-growing place, and in the days of McEwan its victories were numerous in the "tented field" of Chiswick, as well as at the Regent's Park. I have to apologise for the imperfect notes which I place at your disposal, for my run through the place was rapid, and the time of year one of the least favourable that could have been chosen for such a purpose; at the same time, in concluding, allow me to place on record the order and cleanliness in which the grounds are kept.-VISITOR.

GARLANDS.

THE use of garlands both at weddings and funerals is of great antiquity. According to Pliny, however, flowers were not used in garlands till about the year 380 B.C. Before this date they were composed exclusively of branches of trees or green herbs. He relates that the painter Pausias being in love with the garland-maker Glycera, first caused flowers to be combined with the green. These two, the one working in the materials nature gave to her hand, the other imitating them on his canvas, vied with each other in the novelty and taste of their designs, and thus introduced the fashion. Among the Greeks, Roses, Violets, and Myrtle appear to have been the favourite flowers for garlands. The first, sacred to the Graces, as well as to the god of silence, the second believed to have health-restoring powers, and the third dedicated to Venus, whose altar was decorated with wreaths of Myrtle. By the laws of the twelve tables, those were crowned with garlands when dead, who in life had merited the honour. The public games had each a distinctive crown, and not only had the victors their temples wreathed with Parsley, Fennel, or other herbs, but, according to Pliny, a like token of respect was granted to their parents. Amongst the Romans the same custom prevailed; and a civic crown of Oak leaves was the reward of him who had saved the life of a Roman citizen. A Roman bride wore a chaplet of flowers and herbs upon her head, and a girdle of wool about her waist, and at funeral feasts the mourners wore garlands while celebrating the virtues and achievements of the dead. When paganism retired before the advance of Christianity, all ancient customs were not abolished; and the beautiful and significant use of herbs and flowers at weddings and funerals was still retained. In Cole's "Art of Simpling" he thus speaks of garlands formed of the Cypress, Rosemary, and Bay. "They are all plants which fade not a good while after they are gathered and used-as I conceive-to intimate unto us, that the remembrance of the present solemnity might not die presently, but be kept in mind for many years." Flowers, on the contrary, were used as emblematic of the shortness of life. Amongst the Anglo-Saxons, flowers appeared both at their bridal and burial feasts. After the "benediction ceremony," as Strutt calls it, the bride and bridegroom were crowned. But as these garlands were kept in the church on purpose, they must of course have been composed of artificial flowers. That bridal chaplets continued to be worn, contemporary writers bear witness. Chaucer takes care not to omit the garland in describing Griselde adorned for her marriage. In the fifteenth century brides wore garlands either of flowers or corn ears.

The poets and authors of the sixteenth and seventeeth centuries abound with references to plants and flowers as used both in bridal and funeral ceremonies. At this period, trees,

herbs, and flowers had a clearly defined significance. Cypress and Yew were emblematic of death and immortality; Rue was the "herb o' grace;" Rosemary was for remembrance, and is mentioned by several old herbalists as good for strengthening the memory. Violets symbolised fidelity, the Columbine desertion, and the Willow has been from time immemorial the tree of mourning, especially devoted to forsaken lovers. These sweet old superstitions have disappeared before the light of reason. We no longer believe in the signatures of plants, and their consequent efficacy, but the familiar flowers of our poets still speak to us in a language we feel, while the grander exotics are dumb. Strutt gives a detailed description of a wedding procession in the time of Queen Elizabeth. The author is speaking of the marriage of his hero. "The bride being attired in a gown of sheep's russet, and a kirtle of fine worsted, her head attired with a billiment of gold, and her hair as yellow as gold hanging down behind her, which was curiously combed and pleated, according to the manner of these days; she was led to church between two sweet boys, with bride laces, and Rosemary tied about their silken sleeves. Then was there a fair bride cup, of silver gilt, carried before her, wherein was a goodly branch of Rosemary gilded very fair, and hung about with silken ribbons of all colours; next there was a noise of musicians, that played all the way before her. After her came the chiefest maidens of the country, some bearing bride cakes, and some garlands made of wheat finely gilded, and so passed to the church; and the bridegroom finely apparelled, with the young men followed close behind." By this it would seem that the emblematic garlands were carried by the bridesmaids, and that the bride wore instead an ornament of gold.

At the end of the seventeenth or beginning of the eighteenth century, garlands were still borne at funerals, though they were then mostly composed of artificial flowers, with a mixture of gold and silver tinsel, silk, dyed horn, and other tawdry additions. In the centre of these crowns or garlands hung a piece of white paper shaped in the form of a glove, on which the name and age of the deceased were inscribed. In Yorkshire and other parts of England the custom of hanging up garlands of cut white paper over the seat that a "virgin dead" had once occupied in church, prevailed to a late date. At the present time in various parts of Germany and northern Europe, a maiden when laid in her coffin is crowned with a Myrtle wreath. In the south also the bodies of young girls and children are crowned, but generally with artificial flowers, too often of a tawdry kind. The wreaths of Immortelles on the tombs abroad, particularly in France, are familiar to everyone. It is a touching spectacle to see whole families loaded with flowers and garlands, trooping to the cemeteries on All Souls' Day, to deposit their tribute of love at the graves of the departed. In Père-la-Chase, the tomb of Abelard and Heloise used to be pointed out, the effigies almost concealed by wreaths of Immortelles placed there by les amoureux infortunés, it was said. To revert to the brighter side of the subject, garlands have continued to constitute an essential part of bridal array in all countries, though the flowers selected for this purpose vary. In Normandy Roses find favour. When a man has little or no dowry to give his daughter, it is a saying there, that he will give her a chaplet of Roses. In Italy the Jasmine is the flower selected. In Germany the Myrtle wreath prevails, as in the classic days of Greece and Rome. It is a frequent practice for a young girl to plant a Myrtle, and to watch and tend it till the time arrives when she requires the delicate blossoms for a bridal wreath. Should she die unmarried, the same Myrtle furnishes her Todtenkranz. It is considered extremely unlucky to present another with Myrtle from a plant dedicated to one alone, either for life or death. The Myrtle crown of the bride is frequently alluded to by German poets. In the northern provinces of Germany, and in Scandinavia, the bridal crowns are composed of artificial Myrtle, ornamented in a manner more showy than tasteful, with additional flowers in gold and silver. These crowns are often a foot or more in height. In the evening the garlands are abgetanzt, danced off; a lively tune strikes up, and the bridesmaids and other girls dance round the bride, who is blindfolded. Suddenly the music stops, when the bride places the crown on the head of the girl who happens to stand before her at the moment. Of course the maiden thus crowned will be the next to be married.—(Argosy.)

NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING.

Look over window plants in pots carefully, and with a soft sponge or piece of cloth and some clean, soft, milk-warm water

where people are much less interested in the changes of the weather, and therefore much less observant of them, than they are in the country; and I have no doubt more plants are destroyed from want of attention in those variable periods of the year than from any other cause. It is a safe rule to trust no plant less hardy than a common Geranium outside the window all night earlier than about the 20th of June, or later than the 1st of September. No doubt there are many nights before the first of these times, and after the latter, during which the plants might remain in the open air without injury. There is, however, no knowing what a night may bring forth at those inconstant seasons, and therefore the safe plan is not to leave the plants to chance.-W. KEANE.

The amateur who possesses a greenhouse should towards the end of the month shift Geraniums that are well rooted, using a rather heavy and rich soil, potting and keeping the plants well tied and near the glass. See that Camellias are never allowed to get dry at the roots, otherwise you may lose your buds; and do not expose them at any time to cutting currents of air. Calceolarias that are well-rooted in small pots should have more potroom. A soil of half loam and well-decayed dung or leaf mould, with a little sand, suits them well. Keep Verbenas, Scarlet Geraniums, and other bedding plants free from dead leaves. If you have Vines in your house and they are not yet pruned, lose no time in getting it done. Little can be done out of doors at present beyond the collection of manure. Road-scrapings and turf-parings are excellent for mixing with your pig manure, and these, well saturated with soapsuds and other fertilising liquids, will make a famous dressing for your garden in spring. Where the ground has been previously rough-dug or ridged, fork it over on frosty mornings, so that the frost may penetrate and pulverise the soil to a greater depth. As we may yet expect to have some severe weather, any plants, such as China Roses, that are rather tender should be protected, for having been somewhat excited by the late fine weather, frost will have more effect upon them and might prove very injurious. Any hardy climbers on walls, as Clematis, &c., if not previously done, may now be neatly trained.

VEGETABLES.-Marshall's Dwarf Prolific and Mazagan Beans are the kinds generally used for early crops. The latter is the hardier; and if not done before this, some may be sown for an early crop as soon as the weather will allow, in shallow drills about 18 inches apart. On a warm border they may be planted in the row about 3 inches apart, and covered about 2 inches deep. On the first fine day a sowing of Dillistone's Early or Sangster's No. 1 Peas may be made on a warm sheltered border, which should have been ridged crosswise. Draw the drills within 8 inches of the bottom on the south side of the ridge; this will keep the seeds dry and prevent them from rotting, as sometimes happens, especially in a retentive or clayey soil. For this crop the seeds should be sown pretty thickly, and in case of intense frost they should be protected by fern or furze. Some of the latter chopped may be put in the drills to prevent the ravages of mice.

FRUIT. Any fruit trees trained against a wall may now be pruned, have their shoots railed quite straight, and disposed so as to cover the wall equally. Standards may also now be pruned, taking care to cut-out all cross branches. Gooseberries and Currants, if not previously pruned, may now be gone over, so as to allow the ground to be dug between them. FLOWERS.-If any bulbs, such as Daffodils, Anemones, or Tulips, are not already planted, the earliest opportunity should be embraced for getting them in. Those planted in October will now be above ground; they should be covered with fern to keep them from frost. Every unsightly object should be removed from the flower borders, so as to give them a neat appearance.

WINDOW PLANTS.-Spring and autumn are the times of the year at which window plants require the greatest attention. It is usual to have the plants outside the windows even during the night in the summer season, and kept in the house both night and day during the winter. In the intermediate seasons of spring and autumn the plants are frequently placed in their summer positions during the day, and it is desirable that they should be placed in their winter situations during the night. Our climate is so variable at those seasons that we not only have summer during the day, and winter during the night, but whole days of summer and winter alternating with each other. Sometimes we have warmer days in April than in May or June, and occasionally we have more severe frosts at the beginning of September than any which occur again till November is nearly over. Now, it is not the absolute heat or cold, but the rapidity of the transition from the one to the other, which is injurious to plants, and therefore it is absolutely necessary for all such as have their house plants in the perfection of beauty, to attend to those circumstances. This is more especially necessary in towns

KITCHEN GARDEN.

THE weather still continues favourable for all out-of-doors operations. The thermometer has fallen to the freezing point once or twice during the week, but the days have been mild. Much of our time has been taken up with wall-nailing and pruning the pyramid and other fruit trees on borders specially devoted to their culture. As they have been under summer pruning, all that is required at this season is to thin-out the branches where they are overcrowded.

We had a very heavy crop of fruit last season. Apples were most abundant, nor has the fruit ever kept better than it has done this year. The fruit-room faces south, and being an upper storey is rather dry, so that where the fruit had not been quite ripe when gathered it has shrivelled a little. Of course there are some varieties of Apples which shrivel more readily than others; for instance, the true old Golden Pippin will keep in good condition longer than the Pitmaston Golden. Ribston and King of the Pippins do not become soft even under unfavourable conditions. Cox's Orange Pippin will keep a very long time, but if the fruit is not quite ripe when picked it also becomes soft. When it is desirable to preserve a quantity in good condition, and the fruit-room is not well adapted for them, it is a good plan to wrap each fruit separately in a piece of soft paper, placing a layer of fruit in the bottom of a box or barrel; this layer is then covered over with dry sand, then another layer of fruit, which is covered with sand in the same way, and so on until the box or barrel is filled. It is not necessary to look over the fruit very often, as should any of the specimens decay the sand will, to a considerable extent, prevent the mould from spreading. All the trees are well furnished with buds, but we do not expect those that were overcropped to bear another full crop The borders are being dressed with rotted frame manure, and will be dug over with a fork just deeply enough to to be disturbed by fork or spade. We fancy digging lightly is break-up the surface. Some persons recommend the borders not beneficial to the trees: the borders have a tidy appearance after being dug, and the hoe can be more readily worked when weeds appear. It is highly desirable to stir the ground amongst all green crops with the hoe, not so much to destroy weeds as to aërate the ground.

next season.

Lettuce planted in cold frames, and which is now ready for use, should be kept free from decaying mouldy leaves, and have the lights removed whenever the weather is mild, shutting-up closely at night. Made a sowing of early Peas on Dec. 23rd, the ground in splendid order. Our two favourite sorts are Alpha and Taber's Perfection [Sangster's No. 1], to which are added this year William I. and Blue Peter; both were grown last year for the first time. The last-named is the best dwarf blue Pea,

and William I. will displace all the other early Peas for exhibition purposes. The haulm is generally thin at the bottom, and William I. were mixed together; the dwarf sort will fill-up the as an experiment equal quantities of seed of Blue Peter and bottom part and thus utilise space.

FRUIT AND FORCING HOUSES.

Pines may now have a higher night temperature-65° as a minimum, with a bottom heat of 85°. As the temperature is increased a little more atmospheric moisture will beneficial to the plants, but no water should be put in the evaporatingtroughs as yet. We find it necessary to examine carefully all plants that are throwing-up fruit, and to ascertain the state of the roots; if the soil is very dry it is best to thoroughly saturate it with water, and not to give any more until the soil is again comparatively dry.

Cucumber houses require a good deal of attention at present. The night temperature ought not to fall below 65° even in cold nights after this time. Thrips and green fly are troublesome, but tobacco smoke applied on three successive evenings soon clears the plants of them. The leaves being tender at this season, it is better to smoke oftener than to run the risk of destroying them. The pipes in our houses are well supplied with evaporating troughs, but experience has taught us that too much vapour is injurious, it causes the foliage to be wanting in sub

Mushroom beds should be in full bearing now, and to keep-up a supply other beds should be in progress. We fancy the best Mushrooms are produced when, say, a fourth part of cow manure is added to that from the stables. It should be thrown together and allowed to heat until the rank steam is thrown off. The manure must be sheltered from the rains, which at this season would be injurious. If it should become too wet it will be improved by being spread-out about 9 inches deep on the floor of an open shed before throwing it up in a heap. The manure ought to be moderately moist at the time the bed is made-up, and should be rammed down quite firmly, which prevents overheating. The spawn may be inserted when it is found the temperature of the bed will not exceed 85° or 90°. It is not desirable to water the bed until the Mushrooms appear, when a moderate watering of tepid water should be applied. In all cases 2 inches of maiden loam should be placed over the surface of the bed and beaten down firmly with the back of a spade. Fifty-five degrees is the best temperature at which the house should be maintained.

Dwarf Kidney Beans in pots where the temperature is 65°, unless due precautions are taken, will become infested with red spider. To keep this pest in check syringe the under sides of the leaves every morning, and do not allow the soil in the pots to become dry.

Asparagus Forcing.-Where there are heated pits no difficulty should be experienced in keeping-up a supply of this vegetable. Shallow beds with two or three rows of pipes for hot water in the bottom are well adapted to maintain the temperature of the beds; about 18 inches of stable manure and leaves should be placed over the pipes, and when the heat has declined to 85°, the clumps of Asparagus roots should be planted on the bed. The temperature of the house may be 50° at first, rising, as the crowns show signs of moving, to a minimum of 60°. When dung beds are used for forcing this vegetable there is always much danger of the roots being damaged by too much heat; and when the first heat declines applying linings of fermenting manure often involves considerable labour.

STOVE AND GREENHOUSE.

TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED.

J. Hill, Spot Acre, Stone, Staffordshire.-Catalogue of Forest Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Fruit Trees, &c.

Vade-Mecum, 1874.
J. Carter & Co., 237 and 238, High Holborn, London.-Carter's

We

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

We request that no one will write privately to any of the correspondents of the "Journal of Horticulture, Cottage Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By so doing they are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All communications should therefore be addressed solely to The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture, &c., 171, Fleet Street, London, E.C.

also request that correspondents will not mix up on the same sheet questions relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, if they expect to get them answered promptly and conveniently, but write them on separate communications. Also never to send more than two or three questions at once.

N.B.-Many questions must remain unanswered until next week.

Books (B. W.).-If you need only the names and short descriptions of plants and the orders they belong to, Loudon's "Hortus Britannicus" will suit you.

SUPPLEMENT (F. H. K).—When we give extra pages we call it a supplement. You have mentioned goldfinches and bullfinches, but have not finished your query.

ENCROACHING TREES (Welby).-The courteous mode of proceeding is to ask your neighbour to lop-off the branches overhanging your garden. If he refuse to do so, you may lop them. As to the roots, you may cut them off as far as they penetrate your soil, but no further.

Greenhouse. The most valuable subjects at present are the different varieties of the Camellia; the large handsome flowers of different shades standing out against the bold glossy dark green foliage cannot be surpassed. When cultivated in pots there is always danger of the plants becoming unhealthy, or the complaint is made that the buds drop-off. The most frequent causes of these evils are over-dryness at the roots or in the atmosphere of the house, or stagnant water at the base of the roots, caused by the drainage being choked. The fleshy roots of the Camellia are easily injured, and the first signs of anything being wrong is the flower-buds dropping off. If any of the plants are infested with scale the leaves will be dirty; they should then be washed with soap and water.

Epacrises and the winter-flowering species of Cape Heaths are very valuable for cutting; they require to be well attended to as regards the root-supply of water, the ball should be thoroughly moistened when water is required. Sometimes a plant standing near a flue or hot-water pipes will be over-dry, and the ball will part from the sides of the pot; when this is the case the ball should be rammed-in rather firmly, and the pot soaked

in water for half an hour.

Specimen plants of Stage and Fancy Pelargoniums must now have the shoots trained regularly over the plant; those intended to flower late should be stopped. Smoke the house if only one green fly is to be seen, water cautiously at the roots. The variegated section require very little water during the present month. Allusion has lately been made to the mould or damp on Chinese Primulas. Ours are very badly affected. The only way to save the plant is to remove the fungoid growth with the fingers, and apply fresh-slaked lime to the injured part. Prompt action is necessary.

FLOWER GARDEN AND SHRUBBERY.

No better weather could be desired to forward all operations in this department. All shrubs, especially evergreens, should have been planted by this time. If any work of this sort remains yet to be done no delay should be made. It is highly desirable that the plants be established before frosts come.

CLIMBERS FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES (Rosa).-The Bougainvilleas will do in a winter temperature of 45°, or occasionally 40°, if kept dry at the roots. Climbers for covering the chains which support a 40-feet pole are Jasminum nudiflorum, Caprifolium Periclymenum, Clematis Vitalba, and climbing Roses Dundee Rambler, Amadis, and Rampante. Some of the best Clematises are Alexandra, Henryi, lanuginosa nivea, Lucie Lemoine, Mrs. James Bateman, Star of India, Jackmanni, and rubro-violacea. A few climbers for a greenhouse -Bignonia jasminoides splendida, Kennedya bimaculata variegata, K. inoPassiflora Countess Nesselrode, Rhynchospermum jasminoides, Jasminum grandiflorum, Tacsonia Van-Volxemi, Hoya carnosa, and Sollya linearis. A few climbers for a hothouse or store-Allamanda cathartica, A. Hendersoni, Cissus discolor, Clerodendron Balfourii, Dipladenia crassinoda magnifica, Ipomea Horsfallim, Passiflora Decaisneana, P. princeps, and Stephanotis floribunda. Flowering stove plants-Anthurium Scherzerianum, Aphelandra aurantiaca Roezli, Burchellia capensis, Centropogon Luceanus, Dalechampia Roezliana rosea, Eranthemum pulchellum, Eucharis amazonica, Franciscea calycina major, Gardenia radicans major, Ixora acuminata, I. coccinea superba, Lasiandra macrantha floribunda, Medinilla magnifica, Pentas carnea, Rondletia speciosa major, Thyrsacanthus rutilans, Euphorbia jacquiniæflora, and Poinsettia pulcherrima.

TREES AND SHRUBS FOR EXPOSED POSITION (E. M. P.).-The best trees for an exposed position are the Sycamore, and the Corsican and Austrian Pine, Mountain Ash, Bird Cherry (Cerasus Padus), and common Elder. With these as nurses or as a screen you may so break the violence of the winds from the west as to grow to the east of them, and under the shelter of the above, a great variety of shrubs; but in the absence of particulars we are unable to advise.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS AFTER FLOWERING (Idem).-Cut away all the old shoots close to the ground, and take the cuttings when 3 or 4 inches long, and pot them singly in small pots, and keep them in a cool house until rooted, and then remove them to a cold frame until April, when they may be shifted into larger pots, and in May may be placed out of doors in an open sunny spot.

CAMELLIAS FOR COOL HOUSES (F. T., Dublin).-The lean-to houses which you propose to construct against your existing houses, and which when finished will have northern aspects, will not, if unheated, be suitable for Camellias, but if heated they would answer admirably. Without heat we fear you would not be able to give the needed stimulus for a good growth and thorough ripening of the wood. On the front stages of such a house you would be able to grow Azaleas and a majority of greenhouse foliage plants. Unheated, your houses would suit the hardy kinds of Ferns, which in their multifid forms are very fine. If you cannot heat the proposed structures, any unsightliness of the walls might be overcome by covering them with Ivy.

PRUNING PYRAMID PEAR AND APPLE TREES (E.).-The "lateral fine spray growing out of the various main branches and leaders" should be cut back to two eyes, and the shoots produced in consequence next season should be stopped at the third leaf, and afterwards to one leaf, unless they are wanted for extension; then they should be allowed to make six or more leaves before being stopped, stopping again at the third leaf. Had the shoots been stopped to three leaves they would not now have needed cutting-back. Pinch them well in summer, and little or no winter pruning will be necessary. ARRANGING STAGING OF GREENHOUSE (M. B.).-Your house being a lean-to

5 feet wide, with a Peach tree against the back wall, you will only be able to have staging in front of the house, and that, to do justice to the Peach tree, should not be more than 2 feet 6 inches wide, and flat. There may also be at the back of the house a shelf about 1 foot 9 inches wide, 2 feet 3 inches or so from the floor, formed of laths, so that it can be removed as required for top-dressing the soil about the Peach tree. The plants on the stage should

not be large, or they will shade the lower part of the back wall, and the Peach tree will not thrive.

DESTROYING SLUGS (H. K. J.).-One remedy would be to take off the surface and burn it, as doing so would destroy not only the slugs but their eggs. Unless the land is strong we do not advise this, as we find that repeated applications of lime, fresh or newly slaked, are a perfect cure. It should be applied at the end of the day or early in the morning, making the ground quite white, and repeat the application every week or ten days, and best after rain. The ground, between the dressings, ought to be stirred with a hoe or fork. Your case being a bad one, we advise sowing the flower as well as kitchen garden with salt in March, evenly broadcast at the rate of twenty bushels per acre, following with the lime as may be requisite.

PLANTS UNDER TREES (G. C.).—As you wish for a few Ferns, we may say that it is only the commoner kinds that will succeed, and those not well unless the soil is moist. The most suitable Ferns are Lastrea Filix-mas, Athyrium Filix-fœmina, Lastrea dilatata, Blechnum Spicant, Polystichum aculeatum, Scolopendrium vulgare, and Polypodium vulgare. Other plants are Hypericum calycinum, Periwinkles of sorts, Primroses, Lily of the Valley in places not densely shaded, also Violets, Snowdrops, Winter Aconites; and shrubs, such as common Laurel, Tree Box, Aucubas, Mahonia or Berberis Aquifolium and repens, Butcher's Broom, Laurustinus, Holly, and Ivies, which are probably the finest of all subjects for growing under trees. WINTER DRESSING FOR FRUIT TREES (Idem).-The object being to destroy vermin, use paraffin oil mixed with an equal proportion of soft-soap solution, 4 ozs. to the gallon of water, and apply it from the fall of the leaf until the buds begin to swell in mild weather. It must not be applied after the buds have swelled. They may be dressed with 8 ozs. of soft soap to a gallon of tobacco juice, the juice being heated to 160°, and the soft soap thoroughly dissolved, applying it at a temperature of not less than 90°, nor exceeding 140°.

CASE FOR TRICHOMANES (S. 4. B.).—The case should be lined with zinc, and not only that, but have a loose or false bottom of perforated zinc, which should be placed 1 inch above the bottom, and the latter should have a small pipe and thumb-screw, so that water draining from the soil may be removed at pleasure. The sides, ends, and top of the case should be of glass, and the ends should open. The drainage should be placed on the perforated zinc, and consist of an inch or two thick of pieces of stone, and over it some rough pieces of peat should be laid to keep it from choking. Use from 4 to 6 inches of soil, but 3 will suffice; it should consist of fibrous, spongy, brown peat, and a third of freestone or sandstone, with a little silver sand, placing pieces of sandstone on the surface. The plants should be planted rather high, and the interior of the case must always be moist. If they have enough the fronds will have dew-like drops on the fronds every morning.

SEA SAND FOR STORING BEET-HEAT FROM LEAVES AND DUNG-CLEANING VINERY (C. S.).—Sea sand answers for the storing of Beet, Parsnips, and Artichokes, but it should be dry, and is then as good as, or better than, pit sand. The heat of a well-made hotbed of leaves and dung will endure a considerable time, but is liable to diminution of temperature after it has been made from a month to six weeks, it being necessary to renew the heat by linings-that is, when a uniform and continued temperature is required, as in growing Cucumbers or Melons. It will answer without linings for raising plants from cuttings or seeds; but if to be used continuously for that purpose, the heat will need to be renewed by linings. All the woodwork of a vinery ought to be washed with soap and water, and the glass with clear water, for which the garden engine is very suitable, but the dirt on the glass will need to be dislodged by a brush or sponge, and then driven off with water from the engine.

CAMELLIAS MILDEWED (Constant Subscriber).—No wonder your plants are mildewed when, as you say, the leaves are seldom dry. The low situation and surroundings of the house are such as are favourable to fungi; but could you not have gentle fires, so as to render the house drier, air being given freely? If the plants are very close together the distance should be increased, and the moisture may be kept under by admitting air more freely, leaving a little on at night; but gentle fires will be necessary to secure the required temperature, and in dull periods to promote a circulation of air. With this we do not think you will have mildew. It may be destroyed by dusting with flowers of sulphur, through a muslin bag or old stocking, the parts which are attacked. WEIGHT OBTAINABLE OF EARLY GRAPES (An Old Soldier).-An ordinary greenhouse, 12 feet by 16, only heated sufficiently to preserve plants in winter, will not produce Grapes early, but now and then good Grapes which might ripen about August are obtained. Allowing, therefore, that plants are cultivated in the house, which necessitates a portion of the glass being kept clear of foliage, you might, perhaps, produce from 80 to 100 lbs., but it is difficult to say with anything like certainty what ought to be grown in such a position; so much depends on the management. If, however, your purpose is to compete in the market with others, we would not advise you to attempt to ripen your Grapes too early unless the heating apparatus, the situation, and other conditions are favourable. The attention required, as well as the price of coals, will leave you but a poor chance to compete with the professional grower, who has large houses contrived expressly for early forcing. FERTILISING SANDY SOIL WITH LIQUID MANURE (An Old Soldier).-Soil of the description you name is the most benefited by liquid manure. years ago a friend occupying a plot of such land on the top of a hill, and which under ordinary treatment produced scarcely anything, by dint of deep cultivation and the free application of manure, both solid and liquid, contrived to have for his horses some of the heaviest crops of Lucerne, Clover, Rye, Tares, and other green foods which we have seen. Much the same may be done for cows, but we would not advise you to give the cows Cabbages, as

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they taint the milk, and it is now too late to sow or plant anything likely to be of use in the spring, unless it be Cabbages. We would therefore recommend the ground to be deeply cultivated, taking care if the surface soil is shallow to keep it still to the top, but disturbing the subsoil as much as possible to allow of deep-rooted plants, like those mentioned, descending in search of food. You might try a small portion of it in grass, but unless well watered it does not do well on dry soils. Better try the Vetches, Saintfoin, Tares, Clover, &c., which all withstand dry weather better.

GLASS HOUSE FOR VINES AND BEDDING PLANTS (A Constant Reader). Your plan cannot well be improved, unless it be by the addition of T ironbars as supports to the glazing-bar between the principal rafters, which would otherwise bag-in if of greater length than 6 feet. Your plan of ventilation at top by glass is also good, but we would adopt a somewhat different arrangement in front, and have the pillars immediately underneath where the rafters are. This, however, is of little consequence, as you contemplate having the front lights made to open, and the easiest mode of doing this is to hang them

warmest.

on hinges at the top. The pipes for heating might be about 18 inches from the front wall inside, and the Vines planted in that space, the roots being allowed to run outside and inside. As you contemplate only having two pipes, we would recommend them to be both together in the front, as the heat will ascend well enough, and the house being a lean-to, the top will always be We fear the Peach tree on the back wall will not do much good, as the Vines will speedily occupy all the glass and deprive the back wall of light. You might, however, plant a Vine or two against the back wall; they would compete with those on the roof for the light, and you might get a few bunches from them for a year or two, and if necessary one or more might be trained from the top down the rafter. We have seen Vines do very well when so treated. There is no better Grape than Black Hamburgh, but you might also have Buckland Sweetwater or Foster's White Seedling, but let most of the Vines be Black Hamburgh. If you know of any house near you similar to that which you intend building, we would recommend you to inspect it first, and make inquiries whether improvements could not be effected. You will obtain more information about details by such means than can be given in a column of letterpress, and in general you will find gardeners not only willing but pleased to impart information. We are sorry your communication has been unavoidably delayed.

FLOWERING CINERARIAS EARLY (P. Q.).—They may be flowered in autumn and early winter, the seed being sown in March in a hotbed, and the plants grown-on throughout the summer in cold frames, shifting them into their blooming-pots in August, and removing them in September to a light airy position where they will have a temperature of 45° to 50° from fire heat. If kept in an ordinary greenhouse they will not flower until the new year. We have some now in a greenhouse at 40° to 45° that were sown last March, and the flowers are just expanding.

ROW FROM A QUART OF PEAS (Idem).—A quart of early Peas will sow a row 100 feet long, but as the early crops have greater vicissitudes of weather, and wet and cold soil to contend against, we sow rather more thickly, allowing a quart to 90 feet. A quart of the large kinds as the Wrinkled Marrows, will sow a row 120 feet long, allowing for casualties.

PROPAGATING POMMIER DE PARADIS STOCKS (G.). These will strike root from cuttings of one or more year's old wood, but are best of two or three years' growth, inserted two-thirds their length in moist soil, and about 8 inches apart. The cuttings should be 9 or 10 inches long, and all the eyes ought to be removed except the three uppermost. They should have a warm soil, as from our experience this stock is not suited for the Apple in bleak elevated situations and northern parts of this country. The cuttings should be put in from November to February inclusive. Layers are the best moda of propagation, make stouter stocks in a shorter time, and, consequently, sooner fit to be worked than those from cuttings or suckers. The layers should be made from November to February.

COVERING CROCUS BULBS WITH SOIL (P. D. W.).-We have never grown our Crocuses with the bulb on the surface, or partly covered with soil, but always cover them with soil 1 to 2 inches deep, which we consider quite deep enough for those grown in pots. Even Hyacinths we bury up to the neck, entirely covering Tulips and Narcissuses. The Celery you mention as being sent to us by book post has not reached us; and judging from what you say, we do not think the caterpillars, beyond the injury to the leaves, will have done the Celery any harm. A Melon frame should face the south, but will answer if facing south-east, but the former aspect is to be preferred.

PASSE COLMAR PEAR NOT RIPENING (Q. Q.).-This Pear ripens very well with us in the neighbourhood of London as a pyramid on the Pear stock. In cold districts it would require a wall. With us it is now in season. As it does not succeed on your wall, we advise you to regraft it with some other sort. It likes a rather dry warm soil; if grown on unsuitable soils the flesh is gritty.

PANSIES AND VIOLAS (Idem).-Write to Mr. Ware, of the Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham.

APPLE TREE WITH BARK PARTING FROM THE TRUNK (E. M. M.).—Remove all dead bark with a sharp knife, and wrap haybands round the trunk. NAME OF FRUIT (J. Hill).-We do not recognise your Shropshire Apple. It is a fine variety for culinary use, and as it is an almost unfailing bearer, ought to be more known.

NAMES OF PLANTS (Kildare Subscriber).-Centaurea candidissima. (H. Hicks). We cannot name plants unless their flowers are sent; nor did we ever hear of the name "Creeping Myrtle."

POULTRY, BEE, AND PIGEON CHRONICLE.